Table legs with lock rabbett bit

[David Ragan]

Has anyone ever done this?

Does it work well for table legs, the purpose is to wind up with a QS appearance on all side of the leg.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_bSMSIXAxido/SwrFy4-d_qI/AAAAAAAAAGI/gkpnUVMG6EE/s1600/IMG_0345.JPG (http://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CAcQjRxqFQoTCK2Gh5zclsYCFQSSDQodn4EAjw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fcombraystudio.blogspot.com%2F2009 _11_01_archive.html&ei=12aBVe2-LoSkNp-DgvgI&bvm=bv.96041959,d.eXY&psig=AFQjCNEmPHZnJUvYqmeEGokxnoc9tpsaxQ&ust=1434630185810164)

[Ole Anderson]

It does work well if you have the bit figured out. I didn't when I did my QSWO bed with big square legs. Don't learn on your good wood, do a trial using wood of the EXACT same thickness. Google "setting up a lock miter bit".

[Charles Taylor]

Has anyone ever done this?


Sure. Stickley was doing it that way a century ago. As Ole pointed out, getting the setup correct can be fussy. One of our other Creekers, whose name I can't remember [edit: Alan Schaffter], designed a helpful setup jig that's sold by Infinity Tools.

I've used the Whiteside lock rabbet bit to make drawers for the shop. Getting the bit set up wasn't a problem for me, even without the setup jig, but I had a miserable time with tearout on the plywood I was using for drawer stock. That isn't a problem you'd have making table legs, though, since you'd be cutting parallel to the grain.

[Dave Richards]

A commonly used alternative to get QS grain on all four faces is to glue up 2 or 3 pieces with QS grain on the outsides and then add thin (1/8 in. thick or so) QS pieces to cover the sides of the glue up. It's not as fussy as the lock miter to set up and you can use a lower quality piece of oak for the core. Like this (https://flic.kr/p/rreoZg).

[Bill Huber]

Here is the set up jig for the bit, it is a really good tool and I love mine, I do have the Infinity bits.
http://www.infinitytools.com/2-Pc-Lock-Miter-Master-Jig-Set-For-3_8-1-3_16-Stock/productinfo/00-LMM/?gclid=CjwKEAjwtYSsBRCDx6rM1v_uqmsSJAAZgf2q-wGVIjO09L2mQw19jpGpxuZMpHMI5_sR-to7r2cHKhoCfoHw_wcB

I have made legs just the way you are looking at and they do work out ok. I have also just used 45s and that worked out also, glue up is a little harder with the 45s.

If you use the locked miter make sure you have 2 halves the same as each other, this makes clamping really easy. All you have to do is put clamps on one side, in the picture it would be the black ends.

This image comes from here.
https://holbren.wordpress.com/2009/11/22/setting-up-and-using-a-whiteside-lock-miter-bit/

315842

[Pat Barry]

Has anyone ever done this?

Does it work well for table legs, the purpose is to wind up with a QS appearance on all side of the leg.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_bSMSIXAxido/SwrFy4-d_qI/AAAAAAAAAGI/gkpnUVMG6EE/s1600/IMG_0345.JPG (http://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CAcQjRxqFQoTCK2Gh5zclsYCFQSSDQodn4EAjw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fcombraystudio.blogspot.com%2F2009 _11_01_archive.html&ei=12aBVe2-LoSkNp-DgvgI&bvm=bv.96041959,d.eXY&psig=AFQjCNEmPHZnJUvYqmeEGokxnoc9tpsaxQ&ust=1434630185810164)

It looks like you got it pretty close but getting it perfect takes quite a lot more attention to detail. Now maybe you are planning to round over or chamfer the corners anyway because sharp corners aren't all that attractive or friendly so it doesn't matter. I like the other way of making the quartersawn appearance that Dave suggested because its a whole lot simpler

[Peter Quinn]

Works great. I read a setup guide some time ago on another site that set my head straight, now I'm set in under 5 minutes. First set the height. Run a piece the same thickness as your stock face down with the cutter set by eye to the center of the stock. Cut off a bit, flip it, should have two flush faces. If not make note of which direction you have to move and adjust the cutter height, always coming UP to your setting to eliminate slop. Then set the fence depth as a second operation so you get full cut on your vertical piece (the side of the cut whose face rides the fence during milling). Done. Set up blocks mean you have to mill precisely to the blocks thickness if I'm not mistake , that isn't always possible where I am, thickness may vary, so I needed a method tied to the stock at hand, not a random number.

[Rod Sheridan]

Yup, works great on a shaper, I've used that method to make A&C table and chair legs.........Regards, Rod.

[Jerry Miner]

Yes. But listen to Bill Huber---make two pieces male-male, and two pieces female-female, not four identical. Clamping becomes much simpler.

[Mike Henderson]

You can do the same thing with a spline, which might be easier to cut. Or put ff biscuits or small Dominos in the miter space to hold the pieces in place while you glue it up. The glue will hold very well once it cures.

Mike

[Mike Cutler]

Yes table legs are made with this bit.
Get the setup jig(s) Bill Huber Linked to in his post. You will be within the width of a pencil line on the first try. The more accurately you can measure and mark, the closer you'll be on the very first try.
There is a book titled "In the Craftsman Style", or very close to that, where one of the authors details his setup, and jig, for using the Lock Miter for table legs.

[David Ragan]

Thanks, guys.

I seem to make a lot of small simple tables. Next time I do, I'll hunt up this thread and up my game.

[Cary Falk]

I just miter the corners and use #10 biscuits for the glue up. Super easy.

[Dave Cav]

You guys almost make me want to try again. I spent several days a while back trying to get the setup to work on my shaper and I NEVER got satisfactory joints. The first problem was the Infinity jig. It just wasn't working for me, and after a conversation or two with the Infinity people they admitted it wasn't designed to work with shaper cutters, only router cutters. The other problem was keeping the stock registered after the cut. There is a very thin edge left once the cut is made, and I never could get a consistent cut, and I finally abandoned the entire project. I may give Holbren's procedure a try, though. Making two male and two female pieces should simplify things considerably.

[Mike Schuch]

I purchased my first shaper to do lock miters for the posts on my stair case. They turned out great after a lot of initial dialing in. I have been a big fan of lock miters ever since! I have never done a tapered leg or post with a lock miter but it seems like it should be doable.