Glue oozing out of copes

[james klein]

Hoping someone has a trick... Every time I build a set of cope and stick doors using maple or other tight grain woods I cant seem to get an adequate amount of glue in the joint without it seeping out onto the profile in little bubbles.

I've tried keeping the glue in a considerable way from the inside edge and it still somehow channels it's way out. Big pain to scrape it out.

Using Titebond red and occasionally green, by the way.

[Keith Hankins]

I have that issue all the time. I have gotten better at keeping back of the line and also knowing how much glue to use. You don't have to kill it with glue to make it work. Biggest way to help is I keep a pan of water, and a scotch Brite sponge (the kind with green backing for scrubbing and yellow front for wiping). Once I clamp up, I wipe it with the damp sponge and that takes care of it. I've been wiping up excess glue with a damp sponge for years. Helps drastically cut down on sanding. I'm sorry just lazy and do the extra on the front side and minimize the pain on the backside.

Good luck cheers!

[Tom Ewell]

Spray bottle of water to dampen a toothbrush can help clear it out too. Just make sure all of it cleans out if you plan on stain.

[Scott Austin]

I tape both sides, being very careful of the amount of glue I use at the profile. q tip works good at profile

[scott vroom]

Sounds like you're either using too much glue and/or applying glue too close to the edge. I apply a thin coat with an acid flux brush and cover only about 70% of the joint...clamping will squeeze it further toward that corner. You don't need full joint overage for a strong joint. Make some sample cope and stick cuts on some scrap and practice. I've virtually eliminated any squeeze out at the inside corners.

I also shoot a few 23 gauge pins into the joint from the backside.

[james klein]

As much as in hate to sacrifice the amount of glue... I have been going back through with a clean brush and pulling back in the deep recess. It's an improvement, but still not an end all solution. Still get a "peeker" of glue in one of every three or four corners. No way I can go with less glue than this. The durability of the joint is as high as, if not higher than, cosmetics in terms of priority.

Been using the " ultimate" 'glue hoping that the superior bond helps compensate for the glue deficit.

Any other suggestions welcome here.
thanks!

[Jim Matthews]

You've got exposed endgrain on copes.

Do you "size" the joints before glue up?

[Jim Dwight]

You will get better at estimating how much to put in. I like to finish the panel and the edge of the frame that touches the panel prior to assembly. One reason is it is far easier. Another is I avoid exposing an unfinished area of the panel. Another is it makes any excess glue much easier to deal with. After glue up, I sand the joints flat, do final sanding on the frame of the doors, and then finish the frame. This multi step process takes more time but I think it gives me better doors.

[Martin Wasner]

If it squeezing out, you're using too much glue.
If it doesn't squeeze out once in a while, you might not be using enough.

Hitting that happy medium of getting the max amount of glue in there is virtually impossible

[Justin Ludwig]

I apply glue to the cope piece with a small tipped applicator (the set sold by Rockler). I stay 1/4" away from inside/outside and don't have any big squeeze out issues. The small tip applicator lets me distribute the glue evenly in and around the profile so I get as much surface area as possible. 23g pin nail and done. Haven't had a failure. I use WilsonArt glue that's UV sensitive so it's easy to inspect stained doors for squeeze out with blacklight flashlight.

[scott vroom]

As much as in hate to sacrifice the amount of glue... I have been going back through with a clean brush and pulling back in the deep recess. It's an improvement, but still not an end all solution.

I never apply glue directly from a bottle. I always pour glue into a small bowl and brush it on with a stiff acid flux brush. You're using too much glue and applying it too close to the corner. You don't need nearly as much glue as you seem to think.

[Jim Dwight]

I squirt glue directly in from the bottle and only sometimes spread it around with an acid brush. There are lots of ways to do this. Being able to look at the joint and tell if it has too much or too little glue is an acquired skill regardless of how you spread the glue.

[Cary Falk]

I have a set of carving chisels that I remove any glue squeeze out after it dries.

[Mike Schuch]

I always use a wet rag... but next time I am going to give a toothbrush a tray. A toothbrush sounds like a great idea for getting into those crevasses.