Outdoor Cedar Table

[Joe Hendricks]

Hi I am new to the forum. Retired last year and consider myself a novice at woodworking. I built a small shop and have most of the basic tools just need to gain some experience.

I picked up a nice sized cut of cedar from a property in the Shasta forest and want to build a prep table to go next to my BBQ. My question is what would you recommend for a finish? I am thinking of using a marine spar varnish but the table will get a lot of sun so I would have to refinish it annually to keep it from peeling. Is there a good alternative that would look nice?

My second question is it is heavy and not very wide, 15 inches wide by 78 inches long. Any suggestions on a nice stand that would be fairly easy to build to hold it?

Here are a couple of photo's of the cedar slab. I removed the outer bark with a draw knife and am waiting for it to dry enough to sand.

Thanks

Joe

[David Helm]

I wouldn't use anything that is a varnish or other coating buildup finish. Better to go with a penetrating oil type finish. There are lots available.

[Yonak Hawkins]

Joe, you say you are waiting for it to dry. How long has it been since it was cut ? I don't know anything about finishing green wood but I wouldn't think a finish would hold up on such a piece, in any environment, not to mention keep its shape.

[Joe Hendricks]

I don't know exactly when it was cut but I believe it could not have been too long ago. The wood was very moist under the bark. I am not in any hurry so can wait and let the wood dry out. Maybe a semi transparent cedar stain would be a better choice?

[Cody Colston]

If you want a clear finish, I would use Epifanes Gloss Marine Varnish (in fact, I do on all my outside projects). Marine varnish is NOT merely a spar varnish like Helmsmans. Marine varnish is a high-solids varnish that is also a spar varnish. The solids are what protects against the UV rays and the gloss helps reflect much of it away. Any clear finish that does not contain high solids will not protect the wood as solids are the only protectant. That's why paint is the ultimate protectant finish. Oil finishes do not contain any solids.

My outdoor ERC furniture that is finished with Epifanes will go three years between maintenance which consists of merely scuff sanding the top layer or so of deteriorated varnish and then re-applying another coat or two...good for another three years and that is in the Texas sun. When the surface begins to look dull, it is time for maintenance.

If you use Epifanes, follow the finishing schedule they recommend...7 coats with the first three coats thinned. Wooden marine vessels routinely get 15 or so coats.

If you aren't set on a clear finish, consider One Time finish. It comes in various shades and is not a film finish. It is similar to a stain but much more protective and longer lasting. It does not have any gloss to it at all, though. I used it on my ERC house siding and mu outbuildings.

[Joe Hendricks]

Thanks Cody, I like the look of spar varnish and have used Man O' War Marine Spar Varnish before on a boat I owned. I will check out Epifanes Gloss Marine Varnish.

[Kent Adams]

Hi I am new to the forum. Retired last year and consider myself a novice at woodworking. I built a small shop and have most of the basic tools just need to gain some experience.

I picked up a nice sized cut of cedar from a property in the Shasta forest and want to build a prep table to go next to my BBQ. My question is what would you recommend for a finish? I am thinking of using a marine spar varnish but the table will get a lot of sun so I would have to refinish it annually to keep it from peeling. Is there a good alternative that would look nice?

My second question is it is heavy and not very wide, 15 inches wide by 78 inches long. Any suggestions on a nice stand that would be fairly easy to build to hold it?

Here are a couple of photo's of the cedar slab. I removed the outer bark with a draw knife and am waiting for it to dry enough to sand.

Thanks

Joe

I have used Waterlox sealer and finish on some planters and they look brilliant. They remain in the sun all day and no peeling. They look as good today as when I coated them last year.

[Yonak Hawkins]

I don't know exactly when it was cut but I believe it could not have been too long ago. The wood was very moist under the bark. I am not in any hurry so can wait and let the wood dry out.

If it's green I would wait until it's dry before finishing. The rough rule of thumb is a year for each inch of thickness for air drying. Restrain it in a flat shape using weights or clamps somehow so it doesn't curl as it dries and put it where air can circulate around it.