Festool MFT/3 Table

[Mac McQuinn]

I'm looking at the Festool MFT/3 table and have a couple questions I'm hoping those who own one can answer. Is the top considered sacrificial and intended to be cut into? Is there a dedicated saw kerf width slot already in the top in a specific location or do you make this cut after purchase? Does this cut offer improvements in dust collection when used with the Festool Track Saw and Dust Extractor since it's not a through cut, traps the dust, and allows the Extractor to pull the dust out?
Mac

[Stan Krupowies]

The top on the MFT is sacrificial. There is no pre cut saw kerf, once you get the track squared with the fence you cut the kerf and the splinter guard strip. It does help some with dust collection but more importantly, it prevents tear out on the bottom of the cut because it's
effectively a zero clearance insert for your saw. You can only cut so deep into the top because if you go too deep you will cut into the extrusions on the front and or back of the table. Most tops you see on you tube have multiple cuts which can either be filled in and start all
over or if the tops gets really chewed up you can flip it and start chewing up the other side. I just filled in my kerfs with Durhams Water Putty and am starting over.

I love having the table as it's pretty much replaced my miter saw for 90 and 45 cuts, plus it will cut up to about 27" - no miter saw will do that. With an extension you can cut longer boards. In short, it a great table when combined with the track saw and vac.

[Susumu Mori]

Yes, it is sacrificial. I thought the replacement costs about $150.
You cut into the top for a small amount and you suppose to use this kerf for all the subsequent cuts, although there are many people who make many kerfs. If you do not plan to carry around the MFT/3, your guide rail will most likely be stationary. So, one kerf should do. You will also cut a small amount of silicon rubber attached to the guide rails too. The kerf and the silicon rubber will act as a zero-clearance throat plates from both sides so that you will get very clean cut. Dust collection is in general excellent because there is no space for the dust to escape, but to the housing of the saw. It shoots some dust at the end of the cut. The initial setup for the square will need some try and error. There are many third-party devices that use the perfectly linear and perpendicular holes for easy square cuts. Overall, I think it is a wonderful tool. If you don't have a good cabinet saw, it could a good alternative, which is lighter, smaller, portable, and quite accurate (potentially safer too). It may have more appeal for those who use many sheet goods.

[Victor Robinson]

Not that I'd ever try to dissuade anyone from spending green on the green, but you might consider some alternatives that you can make yourself. Google "MFTC" or "MPT" or "Paulk workbench" for plans for tables/workstations that are similar, portable, and customizable to your particular needs. You can easily save several hundred dollars.

I got the MFT/3 and like it, but the following caveats kept me from really loving it and its $650 price tag:
- too small of a work surface for many of my projects. I wanted something closer to 4x4'
- portable yes, but still kind of heavy / could have used some kind of nifty wheel mechanism for cantilevered rolling (or something - just felt like a missed opportunity)
- found that for my needs I'd prefer having at least 3 of them to be able to put together or combine in various ways - one was just too small and paying the exorbitant price for one was enough as it was.

I ended up building several MFT-style workstations, for a fraction of the cost (certainly enough to justify the 20mm router bit!) and will probably sell my original MFT. At the end of the day it's a rather small, portable table with a grid of 20mm holes spaced 96mm on center and a hinged mechanism to support a tracksaw rail.

And if there's a part of the MFT/3 that is particularly attractive to you and you think there's no way to DIY it, you can order those parts separately from Festool (e.g. the fence or protractor head or hinged rail support). There are also folks occasionally selling the MFT/3 accessories only (fence/brackets) since they just want an additional table.

And if you possibly have access to a CNC machine (or a friend with one), and therefore a really easy and accurate way to make a 20mm hole grid to any size, there's even more reason to DIY it.

[Larry Frank]

It would be great to see some pictures of the MFT clones. Sounds like a good idea to make them.

[Mac McQuinn]

Thanks for all the ideas, information and feedback etc. Precisely what I was looking for.
Mac

[Eduard Nemirovsky]

It would be great to see some pictures of the MFT clones. Sounds like a good idea to make them.
It is a lot of DIY MFT tables/benches on "green" forum ( -ownergroup).
Some of them really neat and much better then MFT table itself.
I made one too.315198315199315200

Ed.

[Keith Hankins]

I love mine and use it all the time. Yes the top is to be cut into. The dc on festool is the best in the biz. It is dead accurate and is a glue ready cut. After a period of use I simply restore the top

mix up some water putty and fill in the kerf and you are as good as new. Sets quick and won't swell top

http://waterputty.com/

get it at lowes or Home Depot. A can will last forever. My top is probably 6-8 years old.

[Jim Dwight]

I like the Ron Paulk version and have his plans. Now I just need time to build it. I plan on a 3x7 foot table based upon my shop size plus the need to support sheet goods for cut up. Ron has videos on you tube that show how to build any of his creations. Mine will not be a copy but his plans will be useful. I am looking forward to making and using his crosscutting setup. Marking and cutting works but having the crosscut setup will speed things up.

Paulk build his workbench and workstation of 1/2 plywood for portability. He puts scraps under the piece being cut so you don't cut up the workbench. It is also constructed with pocket screws in from the backside so if you cut into the top you could hit the hardened pocket screw tips. Not great for the blade. I plan to put my top on a rolling workbench and just use it in the shop so I will probably use 3/4 plywood for the top. I have the woodrave router base so I can bore the holes with my router using pegboard to space them.

[Duncan Foster]

As long as you don't go too deep the top can be flipped over as well. Check out YouTube, half inch shy, videos on the MFT. They are excellent. You can get a lot more cross functionality by using some of his tips

[Mac McQuinn]

As long as you don't go too deep the top can be flipped over as well. Check out YouTube, half inch shy, videos on the MFT. They are excellent. You can get a lot more cross functionality by using some of his tips

Thanks fore the tips,
Mac

[Erik Christensen]

I built my own custom large scale MFT style power tool bench, cross cut capacity is ~ 40" - it is movable but NOT portable (unless you have a lift-gate truck :D ) - here is the post re that bench -

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?143694-A-different-workbench&highlight=

I do not cut into the bench - i put a 1/4" ply sacrificial sheet when i want to use the saw - every time I am about to use it for production work I make sure I have a fresh cut into the sacrificial sheet for a splinter free bottom & all that after i adjust for a perfect 90 and make a test cut - a sacrificial top lasts at least a year before if gets junked