Jet Cabinet Saw jwcs-10

[Rod Mortensen]

Hello,
So I got a jet jwcs-10 and I am not sure if I have all the parts for the fence and the guild rail looks rough not sure if its going to matter. I dont know where what post it was on the xacta fence needs some fixes to make it work. but anyhow what do I have to do to make it all work right. I would just upgrade the fence but as like everyone else this is what I have to I have to make it work thanks for approving me...

[cody michael]

It's hard to tell from the pictures, but it looks very similar to my beyesmeyer fence, it looks like you have the important stuff, angle iron, tube steel, and fence itself. The angle goes on table saw, tube steel screws to angle. I had to buy more screws for mine from hardware store.

[scott spencer]

It looks like you've got the right stuff. Not sure what the differences between the Xacta and Xacta II are, but you could Google that.

One more pic might be useful....take a pic of the underside of the t-square part of the fence.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/hewood/Saws/pmfencebt2_zpshnkhi76f.jpg

[Mike Cutler]

Rod

It appears that you have all of the parts. I have the same fence on my Jet 10" saw.

Tips to help you out:

Install the front rally mount with counter sink screws, not bolt. The bolt heads extend into the channel and sure as can be you will one day catch your finger on these bolt heads adjusting the fence. Try to install the 2x3 box steel as close to perpendicular to the blade as you can. it will make setting up the fence easier

The cam on the fence lever acts on a face that came from Jet with a teflon pad. This pad caused my fence to move.so I took to using some 400 grit snapper to hold the fence in place. I insert it in between the pad, and the sliding rail

The adjustments to make the fence parallel to the blade are two nylon nuts on wings. Try as best as you can to end up with these even when your fence is finally parallel. Don't just crank on one, if you turn on a 1/4 turn CW., turn the other a 1/4 turn CCW. You may have bend the little tabs to start out even.

Don't take for granted that the face of the fence is true. It may take some shimming with blue painters tape to get it true and even.

All in all, it's really not a bad fence.

The back rail has nothing to do with the fence. It's only to hold extension wings in place

[Rod Mortensen]

Thanks guys I have a shop being built next week so I have not really even go though setting it up it is missing one of the teflon pads. so I know I have to figure that one out. and I will in the weeks to come I have a really bad back so we are going to see how this goes. but I am really excited to fire it up and get it turned up.

[Mike Cutler]

Rod

I have back problems also, 25 years of bicycle racing, most of the adjustments are made form the top, so you shouldn't have to get yourself into any funny positions.

One more tip:
When you out the 2"x3" channel to the front "L" bracket, use lock washers installed on top of flat washers. If you just use a lock washer against the "L" bracket, it will make the 2"x3" box channel want to move after the washer catches. If you have access to "spring loaded" washers that would be best.
The hardest adjustment I had to make was getting the face of the fence to be 90 degree's to the table. That was a pain. Those little nylon nuts were just too coarse in thread pitch.
That UHMW pad on the front of the locking lever cam is no big deal, any small piece of material will do the job.

[Rod Mortensen]

I just thought about something what about retapping those coarse thread with fine thread and see if tacoma screw has a fine thread nylon