Praying among the Reeds

[Brian Kent]

Praying among the reeds - Curley Maple with reeds of Walnut, Beech, White Oak, and Maple.

Seeing the photos, I may re-sand the front of this. I didn't see the tear out until the photos showed it.

The finish is sanded to 1200 with carnuba wax on top.

[thomas prusak]

Well done and quite original as far as i know. Really nice design

[Greg McClurg]

I really like this Kent. How did you do the reeds?

[Brian Kent]

For each reed I cut a curve on a bandsaw, then selected one or three pieces of wood, sanded thin, and just wider than the wood is thick. The glue up is "exciting" because each one is an angled curve. I had to us a wooden hand-screw clamp one direction while tightening 2 clamps the other direction. Sometimes I had to use C-clamps to keep a section from sliding up off of the table.

I started with the reeds that I wanted in the back-ground, using lighter colored woods. Then they get progressively darker and using greater contrast, until the final pieces are are walnut / maple / walnut. That way the ones that cut across all of the others look like they are closer and in front of the others.

The reed pieces go all of the way through, so that they show up on the back also:

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Very clever and nicely executed Brian!

[Thom Sturgill]

Interesting piece, Brian. I like the effect very much.

One suggestion if I may - I see one slip where the reeds do not align on either side of a top reed.

If you start with a square(ish) block the glue up should be easier. Trim the 'reeds' so that they do not protrude the square and use a jig with two ribs that are square to each other and can be clamped to. Just keep some wax paper under the glueup so that it does not stick to the jig. This technique should help prevent that. The 'reeds' would need to be the same thickness as the saw kerf or lay out the curve on the blank with two parallel lines the thickness of the 'reed' and use a spindle sander to sand the cut to the lines.

[Roger Chandler]

I noticed the same thing as Thom on the reeds.........but did not think about his solution...........sounds like a good way for your next one, Brian. Overall, this is nice, and the figure in the grain does look like someone walking among those reeds with a little bowing of the head..........very nice, indeed!

[nelson lasaosa]

Brian , very NICE detailed work

[Brian Kent]

Thank you, Thom. I do use a square blank for all of the glue-ups. I get using reeds the thickness of the saw blade kerf. How could I match the thickness of one of the triple-layer reeds? I recognize the problem but don't know how to make a thicker cut.

[Alan Morris]

Such a marvelous design! Brian, it's amazing! Why did you decide to choose the reed (I'm just curious). And how long did it take to make this beauty? Hope you will find inspiration for continuation your ideas.

[Brian Kent]

The idea started with a photo of a plate with three crossed lines. I used the idea to make communion plates to go with a laminated chalice design from another woodworker. My reproductions of what I saw are shown in the first photo.

About the fifth on I decided to laminate multiple layers on one line. It reminded me of reeds. I eliminated the more horizontal line.

So when I found this piece of maple where the grain looked vaguely like a human form, I decided to keep going with the reed theme.

Now I am interested in trying a chalice with a related theme.

[Thomas Heck]

Nice work. Those are very unique.

[Thom Sturgill]

Thank you, Thom. I do use a square blank for all of the glue-ups. I get using reeds the thickness of the saw blade kerf. How could I match the thickness of one of the triple-layer reeds? I recognize the problem but don't know how to make a thicker cut.

Do you have an Oscillating Spindle Sander? Lay out the line you want to cut by cutting a poster board template. Mark the line on the blank and then move it over to allow for the extra thickness giving you two parallel lines. Cut between them on the bandsaw and sand to the lines.

David J Marks used to do similar things on his 'Wood Works' show. He used a flexible strip of wood with sand paper glued to it and handles glued on the ends. It would follow the contour but stay square to allow hand sanding. .

[Doug Herzberg]

Beautiful, Brian. Great idea and well done.

[Doug Ladendorf]

Very nice Brian, I like that technique and may "borrow" it! Another way to sand would be to put the paper between the two band sawn sections to sand the profile into each other. That would help match them up perfectly.

Doug

[John Beaver]

How could I match the thickness of one of the triple-layer reeds? I recognize the problem but don't know how to make a thicker cut.

The only way to make this work is for the wood thickness to match the kerf. One trick for the thicker pieces is to use a router. Now I know that's a big bite for a router bit, so use the router to make a shallow curve, cut down the center of that with a bandsaw, and then use a flush trim router bit to open up the rest of the curve. You need to make your veneers equal to the router bit, but you can make a couple that add up to 1/4", or something like that.

As for aligning the wood when gluing it back, one of my tricks is to add glue blocks and drill holes for dowels. The dowels will keep everything aligned when gluing. Works great for gluing round objects.

I do like the design, but would like it more if everything were aligned.

[Michelle Rich]

I like it..there are videos on Youtube to make stuff like this except they are for cuttingboards..they use a router in the process and it's slick and makes the curves even & smooth..

[David Delo]

These are very nice Brian. Can't wait to see what you come up with putting this process to your chalice piece.

[Brian Kent]

David, I tried it and started a thread called:Lamination Reeds vs Chalice. Who will win?

[Stan Smith]

Gorgeous!!!!!!!!!

[Brian Kent]

I have learned a couple of things that make alignment work.

First, I have been sticking with "reeds" the same thickness as the saw kerf.
Second, I do not cut all the way through.

[Allan Wright]

I like the look when they go all the way through. Of course you can make your blank with them not fully cut then turn it down so they are if you prefer.

That maple you get has some pretty brilliant chatoyance. I'm not sure where you're getting it but keep doing so. Nice stuff.

[Brian Kent]

I have been getting the curly maple from Reel Lumber in Riverside, CA. They have had some amazing stock and priced around $4.50 / b.f.