Two wheeled steady rest? Steve Schlumpf...

[Dan Forman]

I need to make a steady rest for hollow forms, vases, etc. I recall seeing a post by Steve Schlumpf a few years ago in which he showed a steady rest with only two wheels at about 4 and 8 o'clock position. A few years before that he had built a 4 wheel rest. but seemed to imply that, at least at that time (2012), that he thought only two were sufficient. All of the other posts I searched involve three or four wheels. I"m curious to hear if Steve's still favors the two wheel rest, or if anyone else has gone this route. Here is the post that shows the two wheeler. I've done a search, and have found no further references to similar rests. Maple Rough Out (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?184993-Maple-Rough-Out&highlight=). Thanks for your input.

Dan

[robert baccus]

I've been using a oneway now for 10+ years and do vases mostly, up to 20" with no problems. A vibration by definition goes both ways from the center of rotation and if you stop just oneway it is dead. I'm lazy and have bad knees and leave the oneway on the ways against the headstock which saves much time. I also leave my controlled boring bar set up for instant use. Due to the knees I resent any tool I cannot reach from the lathe.

[Brad Adams]

I built a four wheel steady rest after Jeff Nicols design. The top was getting in the way of my laser. I cut it at the halfway point and have been using the two bottom wheels for three years now. Never have a problem just using two.

[Thom Sturgill]

I think that there are two separate issues.

The first is that their should be support on the other side of the wood from where you are cutting. One wheel placed on center directly in front would block direct pressure pressure from the cutting tool. Three or four equidistant points block any deformation of the piece. The OneWay bowl steady responds tothis issue.

The second issue is support at a distance from the holding point. The further from the chuck or faceplate the force is applied the greater the lever arm to remove the material from the holding device. This is why many turners use faceplates (with or without glue blocks) when turning tall forms. Equidistant wheels work best to resist these forces. This is similar to the use of a spindle steady when turning long spindles between centers.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Dan, when I first got my American Beauty, I ordered a steady rest from Jeff Nicol. Unfortunately, Jeff is a super busy guy and doesn't make steadies all year round. So, I was left to make a temporary one to use until I could take delivery of Jeff's. I talked with Randy Privett (RIP my friend) and he confirmed that the 2 wheel version would work because it would support the weight of the blank. I used the 2 wheel steady on a number of very large blanks and it worked just fine. I still have the 2 wheel but also have Jeff's version and use it more times than not.

One thing to take into consideration is my experience level and style of turning. I have turned a fair number of hollow forms and vases and just needed something to cradle the turning. Some of our newer turners might benefit from additional support to counter any possible catches.

The 2 wheel steady was super quick and easy to make. Nothing says you couldn't throw one together and give it a try. If it works for you... great! If not, you didn't spend a ton of cash. As always, be safe and if something doesn't feel right - DON'T do it!

If you want more info on the steady, let me know.

[Dan Forman]

Thanks guys.

Steve--- Thanks for the explanation. I will make one after yours and give it a try. The construction seems pretty straight forward, are the arms set at 45 degrees? Are they glued and screwed from the bottom? Can't see how the wheels are attached to the t-track, any trick there?

Dan

[Steve Schlumpf]

Dan, the arms are at 45* and they are glued and screwed from the bottom. I used 1/4" x 20 tpi bolts to hold the wheels - just drilled a 1/4" hole on the end of the track. I know I have posted this setup on a few other threads - so will see if I can find any that show things better.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?183665-Wormy-White-Birch-Vase/page2&p=1895690 (scroll down to post #6)
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?175292-First-Rough-Out-on-New-Lathe
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?185750-Another-Vase-Rough-Out

Let me know if you have any questions.

[Dan Forman]

Thanks Steve, and now off to the basement...

Dan