Bed Build

[Brian Holcombe]

It's rare that I run two major projects side by side, but this one is something I need in much more of a hurry. Building an extra long twin which will eventually be combinable with a duplicate version to make a king bed. It replaces a queen bed which my wife is not fond of that I built some years ago. That bed, while made with nice material will be later repurposed into something we both like. The construction method was very simplistic and will be able to be broken down easily.

the urgency is that it is for my son's room which will need to be able to accommodate a crib (hence the need to downsize the main bed) and a guest bed.

and we proceed;

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/94F7112A-693D-4999-A118-E0EBEB6964D7_zpsdizpgzl0.jpg

these will become pins will will work through the central crossmember to offer additional support to the outside legs. One of my goals in this build is to completely eliminate a center leg. I hate them as they catch on everything,

Since this build is somewhat time sensitive I've had the lumber roughed to my specs (if jointed flat on four sides is considered rough :p )

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/A3493A4C-5645-4683-AC46-C371FE41F64E_zpsvmofkuum.jpg

Making a reference corner on the pins for dimensioning;

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/245C9370-6D38-46F1-8937-CBF5BE92B8DF_zpsyhgv2kxv.jpg

sawing the long receivers of these pins;

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/10766DD8-EED9-4E6C-A588-DFE656C825AA_zpsboxx69il.jpg

removing the waste

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/981B63BC-8648-4DDE-AEB4-15453E329BC6_zpsnnhfcy5o.jpg

Scribing the base line helps prefect tear out from making ugly surfaces;

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/77BE302D-5A86-4582-8EE4-34552EC2C209_zpsuuogil2h.jpg

Sawing the stub tenons which will be recieved in the central crossmember

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/E3447F51-9E88-4CE9-B5BE-22DEDF2F2371_zps4lnn0qsd.jpg

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/639EAD48-139B-4393-A8B9-CE3DD453D96F_zpsuwkgdsv5.jpg

after paring we have a joint that fits nicely, awaiting the mortises and locking pins. This joint should ensure very strong outside legs.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/4257C572-E527-40CC-91E1-F72CE00F5E3C_zpsppn7ttfa.jpg

[Patrick McCarthy]

Brian, I always enjoy your posts, admire your craftsmanship, am impressed with your tool selections, and marvel about your neatness ( the carpeting).

best regards, patrick

[Pat Barry]

Hey Brian, If you want a king sized bed eventually then I would not recommend going the way of combing two single mattresses side by side. That would be great for the box spring but not the mattress.

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks guys!

Indeed, I plan to use a single mattress by that point, I'm assuming whatever twin mattress we end up with will have lived a full life by then, lol. No need for a box spring since this frame will have a slatted top.

the combined height of mattress and frame will be about 20"~ which will seem low for some, but is typical for combinations which do not include a box spring.

[Pat Barry]

Mother in-law coming to stay for a while?

[Mark Almeidus]

Brian,
Whats the diameter of the drill bit?
Biggest i have found on internet is 2.5 cm. Yours look like it has bigger diameter.

[Brian Holcombe]

I believe it is 7/8", I have them up to 1" so basically about the same as what you have. In scenarios where I need more I just drill two holes. (for clearing waste).

[Stew Denton]

Hi Mark,

On that auction site are a lot of auger bits. Quite a few sets go up to size 20 and even individual bits of size 20, which is an inch and a quarter, are listed. There are a few size inch and a half, and I saw one that is 2 inches.

Stew

[Phil Mueller]

Love seeing your work. Brian. Thank you for posting.
FYI, not sure I understand Pat's comment, but putting two twin XL mattresses side by side to create a king is done a lot (primarily to accommodate different comfort levels or accommodate independent use of ergo/motion bases). Also, if you plan to go the memory foam route, they require a solid flat surface...slats may void the warranty.

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks Phil, Cheers!

Thanks for the insights as well, It would actually make life significantly easier to not use slats, but that is the preferred style for the mattresses I like.

Cleared this with an Auger first, then followed with a bow saw, now cleaning up the sides with a chisel;

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/1954F608-7F41-40A6-A3EB-38FDC579D98C_zps36rnuifq.jpg

Test fit looks pretty nice;

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/85554A9B-77F3-40B2-A0E8-8A38DF4109D0_zpsu51vessw.jpg

Now onto the mortises for the stub tenons;

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/B0CED1E3-04BB-4099-BA41-2E88181825E0_zpsvcr9e6bz.jpg

I dinged a corner as you can see, luckily finish planing will remove most of that.

Test fitting the stub tenons alone to ensure they stand straight;

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/3D39C546-DF47-4F84-9ABD-310F502621A0_zpslr4wgoiq.jpg

straight and tight, what appears to be a gap is actually my pencil line;

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/CF4BAC6E-EFDE-46D3-B876-4E3D467435A6_zpsf5gx50cr.jpg

Test fit with tenon;

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/BED9FD30-AF55-478F-B536-00366AC0F6E2_zpsjiprrotn.jpg

Finished mortising the opposing side and now we're all set, shy the wedging pins.

I'll have one more set of these to do for this rail and you may have caught my markings. I plan to run the slats through a series of lap joints with rabbets.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/CC8A3813-0622-49B7-B055-CD3EF99B4475_zpsctobanjk.jpg

[Brian Holcombe]

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/958ff2d1-1e44-463f-bd42-bf59ff744920_zpsieabwd9u.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/958ff2d1-1e44-463f-bd42-bf59ff744920_zpsieabwd9u.jpg.html)

Sorry, no work in progress photos, getting this right was all consuming. On the second one I should be more able to take photos during the process.

I used a dovetail plane in a vise to cut the shachi pins into a parallelogram shape.

One note, a very important one, it's been pointed out to me (thanks Chris if you are reading this) that the ideal proportions of this joinery, much like a M&T, are 1/3 thickness for the pin and 1/3 for each side of the fork. So, I've made that notation and will do so on the next project in which I use this type of joinery. I like how well it functions and how it allows me to assemble/disassemble.

The way this bed will be completed is that I will end up building a center rail which will have grooves for the slats and will be assembled with the end rails attached. The side rails complete each with legs and 1/2 cross members will come together in with that unit all while landing on the wedged tenons at the four outside corners. This type of joinery allows for easy test-fitting of the sub assemblies, but since these cross members will join into the legs with tapered dovetails, they will have to be able to be split in the center.

There are certainly other methods of half-lapping while joining together in the middle of a center beam, but I like this one.

[Brian Holcombe]

Moving along nicely on the center rail, completed the second set of rod tenons and moved into the first of two tusk tenons.

In order to avoid redundancy I highlighted a few area that I glossed over previously;

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/CBBB9004-F146-4B8A-8336-3640C7D0DAE8_zpsi1lxkwgf.jpg

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/5B165B19-56BE-431C-B1B6-E80FD75D853D_zps7kesvqn1.jpg

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/C2BE0ABB-C1DD-4B18-ADE6-4F0F92C0AEC0_zpsti54sxqz.jpg

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/0E09B3C9-BD95-4155-88F9-040BC7AAD641_zpsrjgprs3n.jpg

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/F795786F-842A-4985-9DCE-39ECFE583054_zpskvhxv69s.jpg

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/724333DC-0CB2-4030-856A-2677AF31FB2F_zps5oiatnfj.jpg

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/EB97F6E9-78D5-4948-B899-5646317BC6AC_zps8gemgtnd.jpg

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/742C99CD-0E10-4CBD-BD16-0CE6D26CFBD3_zpsxzs9vhob.jpg


http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/CA8A3B48-8C7F-4741-8813-65C7DB899772_zpsk7lno2y2.jpg

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/1CC57E9C-97B0-4256-BFE8-265979AF3EEC_zpsvgrgogrv.jpg

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/FEFA3D44-F8FB-4BB5-8E3B-F66D894EA6BE_zpsdvtcflbf.jpg

[Brian Holcombe]

Round two of tusk tenons was today;

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/Mobile%20Uploads/7F82B9ED-7A17-45E9-AD70-CE283873FE8F_zpsqdt0vxle.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/Mobile%20Uploads/7F82B9ED-7A17-45E9-AD70-CE283873FE8F_zpsqdt0vxle.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/Mobile%20Uploads/2867D5AF-F182-48AB-94FF-288B23528EEE_zps7sqp9usf.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2867D5AF-F182-48AB-94FF-288B23528EEE_zps7sqp9usf.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/Mobile%20Uploads/65172C86-C11B-48FD-9C7F-71674C15267C_zpsfvmcnanb.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/Mobile%20Uploads/65172C86-C11B-48FD-9C7F-71674C15267C_zpsfvmcnanb.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/Mobile%20Uploads/F9B40712-7E71-46E9-A752-2274867B6733_zpsmvokyjgc.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/Mobile%20Uploads/F9B40712-7E71-46E9-A752-2274867B6733_zpsmvokyjgc.jpg.html)

Test fitting

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/412C9127-B731-4B1A-8AC1-A88FA8D75E47_zpsqjfl139m.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/412C9127-B731-4B1A-8AC1-A88FA8D75E47_zpsqjfl139m.jpg.html)

Cut for the pin

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/B81C6A0A-A4DC-4644-BF69-2E069D9AED70_zpslr8pq3xd.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/B81C6A0A-A4DC-4644-BF69-2E069D9AED70_zpslr8pq3xd.jpg.html)

Makeshift fence for cutting the pin

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/EC2AF938-BA38-49EC-AC52-C5FC55B3E573_zps7adw2erg.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/EC2AF938-BA38-49EC-AC52-C5FC55B3E573_zps7adw2erg.jpg.html)

[Christopher Charles]

Hello Brian,

Nice (mini) jointer! Also, what are the dimensions of your bench top--deeper than the typical ~24" or trick of the camera (bottom photo post #12)?

Thanks and keep 'em coming.

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks Christopher!

I believe my benchtop, less the vise, is 30" wide.

Cheers!

[Phil Mueller]

Thanks for sharing the update Brian. I appreciate the "confessions" of a nicked mortise and such. Helps me feel human.
Also, I'd like to point out on one of the pics that a small piece of wood fell on your floor. Very sloppy :)

[Brian Holcombe]

Cheers!

LOL, it was quickly dispatched after the photo....never to be heard form again.

I think it's good to share those sort of things as well, all part of a progression. It's like looking at the internal workings of 18th century furniture or Ming cabinet work, the outside is pristine but there can be some evidence of the handwork internally. I shoot for a very clean result, but some evidence of handwork will be present.

My ideal is a perfectly clean result in every aspect and I acquire new tools with that in mind, often times specialized tooling can greatly improve execution. Like sawing a dado vs planing one, the result produced by way of the plane should have very clean walls, ect.

[Christopher Charles]

I too noticed some chips on your bench top in one of the pictures and was concerned you were falling off your game :)

30" seems like a good width, my 24" seems a little narrow at times since it sits off the wall.

I also agree that good tools inspire (as does a tidy carpet!).

C

[Brian Holcombe]

LOL!

Good tools do very much inspire. I was pretty exhausted yesterday afternoon....then a granite block and a chisel both arrived one after the other....what could I do but put them to work.

Speaking of which, the next series after this may be a sharpening setup. I'm a bit over working on the floor and I've been banished from the kitchen.

[Phil Mueller]

Please don't tell me you're using the kitchen granite counter top for sharpening.

[Brian Holcombe]

LOL, no way, but I did like using the sink the soak my stones. I'm heeding George's warning not to use sink, however, and have been soaking them in a glass bin. Apparently the slurry can build up in your drain pipes.

[Ryan Mooney]

I admit to not entirely groking your overall design but have faith that it will reveal itself in time so am just enjoying the ride until we get there :D

One question - what is the advantage/reason for the bevelled shoulders on the tusked tenons? That's a somewhat unusual design feature so I assumed you had some functional reason for doing it...

[Brian Holcombe]

Enjoy! It should reveal itself shortly. This is going to be an incredibly simple looking design.

The goal of the tusk tenon is basically to leave an I-beam section of the main beam. Chris Hall has been kind enough to offer me guidance with the particulars of the tusk tenon, so probably best just to link his explanation of the tenon;
http://thecarpentryway.blogspot.com/2009/12/battari-shogi-4.html

My experience is that it forms a very secure joint and the housing adds a good measure of resistance to twist. The angled housing serves to remove the bare minimum of the top of the beam and also drives the joint to seat securely into the rabbeted bottom half of the housing and flat onto the tenon.

This is an experiment for me as much as it is anything else, I've been working toward improving my skills and abilities and taking these next steps in joinery has helped me to do so. Now my mortising has to be more spot on, as well as all other abilities required for the cutout and also I'm finding that I have to put more thought into procedure for the cutout because it's not always intuitive (for me so far) in how to proceed.

[Brian Holcombe]

Tusk tenons are complete and now onto the corner joints. These are double tenons that are wedged, I haven't decided if I will use two wedges per tenon or just one. I have completed the majority of the cutout on the tenons and in doing so have setup three marking gauges, two of which will be used to transfer marks throughout the project.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/F3ADBE80-2D55-4030-9BBB-E8ABD4390A62_zpsvpvvj7cb.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/F3ADBE80-2D55-4030-9BBB-E8ABD4390A62_zpsvpvvj7cb.jpg.html)

Not a huge update but good progress.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/B503F6F3-8223-489E-B10B-069AA5959EFE_zps7ndvimta.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/B503F6F3-8223-489E-B10B-069AA5959EFE_zps7ndvimta.jpg.html)

[Barry Dima]

This ongoing build has to be one of my favorites on the forum. There's so much to learn and is being taught. For example, I had had zero idea what's going on here:



http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/4257C572-E527-40CC-91E1-F72CE00F5E3C_zpsppn7ttfa.jpg.

But I think new stuff is coming to light for me thanks to this:




http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/B503F6F3-8223-489E-B10B-069AA5959EFE_zps7ndvimta.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/B503F6F3-8223-489E-B10B-069AA5959EFE_zps7ndvimta.jpg.html)

—which might as well be the cover to an updated guide on intricate joinery.

Brian, as I've said before, thanks for sharing your wizardry.

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks Barry, glad you are enjoying. I think you'll get a kick out of what I have planned for terminating those stretchers into the legs and side rails.

[Will Boulware]

Add me to the list of grateful readers! Thanks for sharing this! We're learning a lot from it.

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks Will, Cheers!

[Brian Holcombe]

I've been a little busy this past week, but getting geared up with a few additions to the shop;

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/20AEC28B-C55C-4632-97E2-F48EDD7094BA_zpsglxr0nrc.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/20AEC28B-C55C-4632-97E2-F48EDD7094BA_zpsglxr0nrc.jpg.html)

The small hammer

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/3F104FFD-C22C-489F-980A-71AD1887D2DD_zpsl8mr40yh.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/3F104FFD-C22C-489F-980A-71AD1887D2DD_zpsl8mr40yh.jpg.html)

[Mike Allen1010]

I've been a little busy this past week, but getting geared up with a few additions to the shop;


http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/20AEC28B-C55C-4632-97E2-F48EDD7094BA_zpsglxr0nrc.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/20AEC28B-C55C-4632-97E2-F48EDD7094BA_zpsglxr0nrc.jpg.html)

The small hammer

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/3F104FFD-C22C-489F-980A-71AD1887D2DD_zpsl8mr40yh.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/3F104FFD-C22C-489F-980A-71AD1887D2DD_zpsl8mr40yh.jpg.html)




Brian, GREAT thread, like everyone else who posted I am really enjoying your work!

I also confess to not really understanding the Asian joinery, although freely admit it's really cool and very much admire your talent.I'm really looking forward to the rest of the build.

Please don't mention to the LOML you're able to successfully execute two major builds simultaneously for beautiful family heirlooms that will be enjoyed and appreciated for generations! You're really making me look bad; regrettably at the next meeting of the Husband's Union I may have to raise the topic of some kind of sanction that requires you to publicly acknowledge this is in fact not possible for mere humans, and that you are clearly a member of a superior alien race sent here to teach us the error of our ways:) !

Sincerely, thanks for taking the time to post your build pictures and thoughts. I'm really learning a lot.

All the best, Mike

[Phil Mueller]

Wow, how cool, we have almost the exact same stuff............NOT!
Just a little late night jealousy poke.316166

Keep the updates coming (just keep the tool porn to a minimum, will ya?)

[Randy Karst]

Phil, you made me laugh .. almost spilled my tea - well played!

[James Pallas]

Brian you do some very nice work. The joinery is great and you work to very tight tolerances. Some of those things I don't think I could do. The wedging action of some of those joints has to be very well done. I would most likely blow the web out of a mortise if I wedged the haunch. I did take note that you use a feeler gauge to check the fit. I am glad you share these builds. It encourages me to step up my own game. Enjoy your new tools, very nice.
Jim

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks for the kind words fellas! Mike, I'll certainly keep the secret best to keep the Lool's (loves of our lives) in the dark about many craft related abilities, otherwise the que can get quite long.

phil, it's hard to keep a tool addiction under wraps, :p

James, it's Definetly important to mind how much short grain you have when wedging, as ideally you'd want as much as possible, but often that is tough when trying to meet certain forms. I think that it's important to always make an incremental increase in difficulty when doing these projects. it can be just as much about maintaining interest as it can about the end creation.

[Phil Mueller]

"I think that it's important to always make an incremental increase in difficulty when doing these projects. it can be just as much about maintaining interest as it can about the end creation."

Well said.

[Brian Holcombe]

I ended up using one of my 3" wide boards for the center rail, hence I had to build another with rough stock on hand.

Flattened the first reference face and have my winding sticks out to check.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/06CB9AB1-197F-44FC-89AC-AD24A0B28737_zpsjrvdkma7.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/06CB9AB1-197F-44FC-89AC-AD24A0B28737_zpsjrvdkma7.jpg.html)

This beam level is one I straightened myself to within .003" it's used as a check on beams.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/90B590E4-D143-4318-B8AB-A829048BA80F_zpsf62lczph.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/90B590E4-D143-4318-B8AB-A829048BA80F_zpsf62lczph.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/C02C1D51-BB82-4B6C-88E3-A24737CEED2B_zpslyq8qfen.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/C02C1D51-BB82-4B6C-88E3-A24737CEED2B_zpslyq8qfen.jpg.html)

Final thicknessing next time.

Finished one side, I'll walk through with detail photos of the cut out on the next round of photos.

Half of the frame is now together, and I have removed the center supports to facilitate the side rail fitting. The will be cut to length and test fitted after the legs are installed on the frame.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/48E252B9-631C-4043-AF74-E5BA6C8C05BE_zpsi6alnpxg.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/48E252B9-631C-4043-AF74-E5BA6C8C05BE_zpsi6alnpxg.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/47937A09-15A2-4640-9801-A6A4E11CD1F8_zpsdht32vmg.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/47937A09-15A2-4640-9801-A6A4E11CD1F8_zpsdht32vmg.jpg.html)

[Brian Holcombe]

Had a chance to do some finish planing and see what kind of surface is turning up;

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/6B1BDA74-50E1-406D-8976-9E4BE5A2A44D_zps2obq1sfb.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/6B1BDA74-50E1-406D-8976-9E4BE5A2A44D_zps2obq1sfb.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/51E5E0E2-8C2C-441F-89B2-CA822B6F6697_zpsg9xgplrf.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/51E5E0E2-8C2C-441F-89B2-CA822B6F6697_zpsg9xgplrf.jpg.html)

[Patrick McCarthy]

Brian, are you sure you are planing in the correct direction? With my boards I am able to get a LOT more divots, chingers, scratch marks, etc. I like to think it gives the finished product a certain "patina", but I won't know until I actually finish something . . . . .

On on a more serious note, always enjoy your posts, especially the craftsmanship demonstrated therein.
OTOH, you have cost me some $$$$$, as some of your posts compelled me to start sending money to Stuart in Japan . . . And worse yet, the appetite is just starting . . . . . You are a BAD influence, sir.

best regards , patrick

[Brian Holcombe]

LOL! I think I'm as much a victim of the siren song as I am a provocateur...enjoy the song, just don't crash the ship :)

Glad you're enjoying!

[Brian Holcombe]

Mock up to check square and mark out the tenons. I used the cut side as a template to mark out the opposite side, then double check that I'm going to hit my marks once the center crossmember is tightened up. All looks good and the frame is square.

Also very important to keep an eye out for twist. These outside joints are square solid and square, but before they're wedged it is quite important to make sure the frame does not have twist in it. That can be done very similarly to how one would eye-ball winding sticks since these outside frame members are also consistent in thickness and height.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/5067B81C-D40A-4B03-88D2-C397E9CCA494_zps2lsnjbfs.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/5067B81C-D40A-4B03-88D2-C397E9CCA494_zps2lsnjbfs.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/7329D08E-DBB9-447A-9E31-AB32B49FD958_zpsulvfg0ln.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/7329D08E-DBB9-447A-9E31-AB32B49FD958_zpsulvfg0ln.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/F05BFF2D-EFF4-427B-9949-FAAF76821BD8_zpsbvdmbeny.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/F05BFF2D-EFF4-427B-9949-FAAF76821BD8_zpsbvdmbeny.jpg.html)

Starting square

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/0ED45AEF-507E-4917-B7C2-60B55C71A7F5_zpspl4j0ohk.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/0ED45AEF-507E-4917-B7C2-60B55C71A7F5_zpspl4j0ohk.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/5598CA47-5DA2-4154-9A57-EE91DED9D623_zps9t3ebucx.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/5598CA47-5DA2-4154-9A57-EE91DED9D623_zps9t3ebucx.jpg.html)

And on the exit (inside of the board) within the requisite boundaries.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/7F212E76-6735-45C2-B498-A0620267F2C1_zpsdfoxwnzd.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/7F212E76-6735-45C2-B498-A0620267F2C1_zpsdfoxwnzd.jpg.html)

[Brian Holcombe]

Not as far along as I was hoping at this point. Ended up spending most of the day chasing a leak that presented itself in my workshop....and removing a good portion of my ceiling...which I will be replacing later this week...sigh.


I did manage to get some mortising done and I detailed my approach;


First round of chopping toward the hole, these steps get progressively smaller as I approach the opposing edge


http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/EF85A024-9AA6-4516-BABF-BA6173BF170E_zpsmlfb2hnb.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/EF85A024-9AA6-4516-BABF-BA6173BF170E_zpsmlfb2hnb.jpg.html)


I then move to the opposing edge of the hole and chop, this is usually two chops and the bevel is facing the hole.


http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/33414F5C-D240-41DC-9DA3-6A9D4DF35418_zps8ptjrnbk.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/33414F5C-D240-41DC-9DA3-6A9D4DF35418_zps8ptjrnbk.jpg.html)


Scoop out the waste, I use a smaller chisel to do so, the entire bit of waste comes out in one scoop; I believe also that a bottom clearing chisel will work for this.


http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/B5FFF0E4-F33E-4F44-9A41-6D5EB805E56B_zpsvvjkkezq.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/B5FFF0E4-F33E-4F44-9A41-6D5EB805E56B_zpsvvjkkezq.jpg.html)


Here is the result at this point
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/740B1F6F-21C0-4661-8F57-A81E7375D5DC_zpsxkzronto.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/740B1F6F-21C0-4661-8F57-A81E7375D5DC_zpsxkzronto.jpg.html)


Next I cut the slope, bevel toward the hole, At this point I'm beginning to check my work for square and ensure that my eyeball is well tuned.


http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/9713C1EC-AEEA-4385-9994-1A60811F5C97_zpscxnte0ol.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/9713C1EC-AEEA-4385-9994-1A60811F5C97_zpscxnte0ol.jpg.html)


Rinse and repeat to lower the floor further and then I flip it around to cut the opposing side. This will leave a triangle of material jutting out from the wall....now I chop this out in larger cuts because I want the material to remain supported and do not want to break out a portion of the wall. The final cut might be 3/16"~ or so this cut is tough but it will shear the material clean from the wall if done correctly;
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/F1127999-7DD3-41E6-BFA9-00D7F52859B3_zpsekpbcy9s.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/F1127999-7DD3-41E6-BFA9-00D7F52859B3_zpsekpbcy9s.jpg.html)


That is before and here is after;
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/8ED17579-AD97-4ECA-99A1-E19371462932_zpsrnunfmpl.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/8ED17579-AD97-4ECA-99A1-E19371462932_zpsrnunfmpl.jpg.html)


Notice how all of my lines are still intact. My next step is to cut the slope in the sides of the mortise which allow room for wedges. I do this with a Chu-tataki nomi because the handle is longer, giving me a better look at whats happening near the bottom exit. I do not chop clear through, but leave a small ledge and then follow up with a paring chisel. I pare the slops flat and then pare the sides flat and to my line.


If you chop clear through you run the risk of making the mortise wider than planned, the tenon will be loose in the hole and when the wedges are driven in you will run the risk of splitting the tenon.....so, don't do that.


Here is the leg joinery, this is a modified version of the dovetails Roubo details for his workbench. I've always disliked long plain sliding dovetails because I find them to either be too tight or too loose, and so I've decided to cut a slope on these for a wedging fit.


http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/C7D30DB8-EF34-46BC-AD90-C50C5B173D27_zpsvwhl6xaw.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/C7D30DB8-EF34-46BC-AD90-C50C5B173D27_zpsvwhl6xaw.jpg.html)


So far, without glue these are rock solid, I've clamped them into a vise and used them as a lever and they're strong, resisting my prying attempts very well.


http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/EB6F08A9-CBA4-4092-96E2-683C7D2C2D91_zpsbwjdttms.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/EB6F08A9-CBA4-4092-96E2-683C7D2C2D91_zpsbwjdttms.jpg.html)


Here is the back side, please ignore the layout on the leg, but the layout on the beam will be cut soon. Those will be receiving the crossmembers with shachi pins. The legs will be so short that they do not require additional support to resist splaying, instead the long side beams are in need of support to resist twisting when a load is applied to the center of the bed, that is the goal of these crossmembers.


http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/FEE434D5-5B8E-4F76-9F25-85F9911695F5_zps5ztjx6cr.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/FEE434D5-5B8E-4F76-9F25-85F9911695F5_zps5ztjx6cr.jpg.html)

[Christopher Charles]

Bummer about the distraction!

[Brian Holcombe]

Indeed! One those things... the seal around the kitchen sink needs repair....drained down the cabinets and then through a hole in the floor for wires then down the wires then onto the drywall. It stopped dripping when I shut the water for the house, and so my original assumption was that it was a pipe....rather then the cabinet above. Either way wet drywall doesnt do well, so I cut it out.

All fixed now with exception to the patch needed in the ceiling, but I figure I'll let it dry out a few days before proceeding.

[James Pallas]

Looking good Brian. In watching your progress and the accuracy of your layouts, I was wondering what you use for your measuring. Story pole, yard stick, wood rule, tape? It is just of interest to me. I use wood rules and story poles for larger work and for smaller things I just work off of one major piece like the top of a box and then what looks good to me for heigth. Unless of course something has to fit in a specific place. We all have those things that distract us from the fun stuff, don't we. Sorry about your leak. I don't mind most household repairs but gypboard or roofing cement can ruin my day.
Jim

[Brian Holcombe]

Thank you!

Funny timing on the leak, if i weren't neck deep in the current projects I'd use this as an excuse to tear out the ceiling and replace with something that offers much nicer lighting and include the wall as well. I've been itching to frame out the wall and build out a real wall system for hanging tools.

I digress, for marking I typically transfer measurements off of a reference piece. In this case it's the center beam, I transfer everything off of that. A story stick works fine as well, I just never think to set one up.

On the initial layout I work from the center and use a steel square for as much as possible and a tape for long measurements. I dislike tape measures but they come in handy on occasion.

[Phil Mueller]

Your precision is amazing. Another question out of curiosity. It seems you use a pencil to mark your lines...so many articles recommend a knife. Do you knife then highlight with pencil, or just throw all prevailing advice to the wind and go your own way? Maybe you don't own a knife? :)

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks Phil! All of the above really, I knife the line when I know I need the knife lines to prevent chip out. Tenon shoulders and stuff like that I usually just use pencil. The pencil I use is .3mm so it's pretty narrow.

[Brian Holcombe]

Here is the cutout on the front of the beam;


This is tapered along the sides, but not along the length.


http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/90C49434-EB81-4088-98BC-F173603BD5A5_zps3meke00n.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/90C49434-EB81-4088-98BC-F173603BD5A5_zps3meke00n.jpg.html)


Now standing on it's own and allowing me to test the strength of various parts in real load. Once the crossmembers are in I should have a better picture of how strong the entire assembly is, but so far I'm happy. I am debating a center leg, I have been trying to avoid it, but if the crossmembers do not remove most of the flex in the center beam I will build a center leg. The beam can carry my weight dead center, which realistically is something that it would never have to do with a mattress on the bed, but I prefer to overbuild that risk a cracked beam down the line a bit.


http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/8D04CC55-4B66-4839-9D8C-B9717C74308E_zpsx24eloya.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/8D04CC55-4B66-4839-9D8C-B9717C74308E_zpsx24eloya.jpg.html)


Cutting the tapered sliding dovetails terminating the ends of the crossmembers.


http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/F533805E-8196-488C-93DC-1D755E2F6CD9_zpscsjgdanc.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/F533805E-8196-488C-93DC-1D755E2F6CD9_zpscsjgdanc.jpg.html)
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/DE12913D-0878-47D4-B077-1D4D65A254EC_zpsrwoggg1n.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/DE12913D-0878-47D4-B077-1D4D65A254EC_zpsrwoggg1n.jpg.html)

[Brian Holcombe]

Moving along, not as many photos of the process this time around, I've been working like hell to get everything wrapped up....since very soon it needs to be put to use;

Cutting the bridle joint for the center support leg. I decided after some testing to add this leg. I could probably have done without but no need to risk a cracked joint after a few years of use to save a short period of effort.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/3F456A47-D8BD-48CF-ABBB-1A028552AD2F_zpsf0qkxfbc.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/3F456A47-D8BD-48CF-ABBB-1A028552AD2F_zpsf0qkxfbc.jpg.html)

Then onto cutting the rabbets to house the slats. I'm amazed at how sturdy these are in use at only 3/16 depth. I can stand on one slat right in the center and they do not flex significantly.

I'm able to seat and finish two corner joints, leaving the opposing two able to be opened to allow the slats to fall in. But that left side is what the finished corner joints will look like;
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/FC1D50AD-4068-4AC7-8607-20712486850C_zpsvxeym7lo.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/FC1D50AD-4068-4AC7-8607-20712486850C_zpsvxeym7lo.jpg.html)

In order to leave this so that is can be broken down in the future I decide to glue the wedges only. Removing them would likely be a real PITA but still considerably easier than fully glued joints

A very minor gap which will be filled before I apply finish.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/B1255D4A-335F-4E78-9C83-1EA5DBF5A5A3_zps2uwwy1io.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/B1255D4A-335F-4E78-9C83-1EA5DBF5A5A3_zps2uwwy1io.jpg.html)

Finished leg joinery. I'm very happy at how strong these joints are and how securely they seat due to the taper.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/7E81824F-24CE-481C-859C-F35CC75D37E3_zpsyqrmptki.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/7E81824F-24CE-481C-859C-F35CC75D37E3_zpsyqrmptki.jpg.html)

Close up of the inside of the leg, the crossmembers are terminated into side beams with tapered dovetails and also seen are the rabbets of the legs. These help to maintain the secure feeing of the legs by resisting prying and also help to seat the crossmembers.

Tusk tenons;

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/2B6CA163-47A3-45F1-8A17-64DAA2E4D0AD_zpsnqzp2xu3.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/2B6CA163-47A3-45F1-8A17-64DAA2E4D0AD_zpsnqzp2xu3.jpg.html)

Next I'll be cutting/fitting the slats and it should finally begin to look like a bed.

[Ryan Mooney]

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/B503F6F3-8223-489E-B10B-069AA5959EFE_zps7ndvimta.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/B503F6F3-8223-489E-B10B-069AA5959EFE_zps7ndvimta.jpg.html)

Naively it seems that the tenon would have more strength here if oriented in the other direction. I'm guessing it was done this way mostly for the convenience of how you're orienting the pins? I'm also not claiming its not irrelevant but it stood out as an interesting data point so I thought I'd ask what drove the design consideration :D

[Brian Holcombe]

No worries, that's a great question.

It's possible that the tenon would be stronger, but the housing would be significantly weaker. Basically the goal of the tusk tenon is to leave an I-beam like cross section in major beam. The tenon is not subjected to bending forces, and the combination of sloping haunch and square haunch should give it plenty of shear strength.

[Ryan Mooney]

It's possible that the tenon would be stronger, but the housing would be significantly weaker. Basically the goal of the tusk tenon is to leave an I-beam like cross section in major beam. The tenon is not subjected to bending forces, and the combination of sloping haunch and square haunch should give it plenty of shear strength.

Fair enough, I was thinking mainly of the shear forces on the tenon, but the concern about the main beam is indeed likely more interesting here.

[Barry Dima]

A very minor gap which will be filled before I apply finish.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/B1255D4A-335F-4E78-9C83-1EA5DBF5A5A3_zps2uwwy1io.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/B1255D4A-335F-4E78-9C83-1EA5DBF5A5A3_zps2uwwy1io.jpg.html)



If that's a gap in joinery, then I'm gonna need some help with the joints in my gappery.

Btw, the ebony is tremendous. It adds these little, great, sleek points of interest as one scans the frame. The wood's black-hole blackness works really well with that earthy simplicity of oak. And you're darn right: I'm loving seeing the variety of ways you're making wood stay attached to other wood. I suspect your sketch-ups can take almost as long as your builds.

[Brian Holcombe]

LOL, thanks Barry!

I originally had hesitations with using ebony, but ended up pretty happy with the contrast. One of those 'on a whim' decisions that you wonder if you will like in the end. I like it. I usually go for lower contrast. Glad you also enjoy the look!

[Brian Holcombe]

Here's what my past few days have looked like, and also a setup for crosscutting. I would normally use my router table for this quantity of work, but the option was unavailable due to a sleeping baby upstairs :) Oddly enough the sounds of hammering do not wake him up, but I'm hesitant to see if a 3hp Hitachi motor will.


A total of 38 slats, so 152 rip cuts and 152 cross cuts. :D


http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/634B5CF3-9A8D-4A3A-B7F7-CA09A16C85C6_zpsvsl5duio.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/634B5CF3-9A8D-4A3A-B7F7-CA09A16C85C6_zpsvsl5duio.jpg.html)


http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/85BC8A18-C290-4895-B4D2-3E87DB64C655_zpsww32dpc3.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/85BC8A18-C290-4895-B4D2-3E87DB64C655_zpsww32dpc3.jpg.html)


Photos to follow of the install. I'm down to pegging the slats into their respective places with bamboo pins.

[Mike Allen1010]

Brian l'm still really enjoying your thread! I really admire your precision joinery and the beautiful planed surfaces you achieve. Now that I can see the larger view of your bed frame, I also appreciate elegance of how the joinery (most of which I'm not familiar with) all fits together.

Thanks for posting.

Best, Mike

[Malcolm Schweizer]

Outstanding. I love the joinery on this one.

[Phil Mueller]

I've heard running a vacuum will help a baby to fall asleep. Personally, I'd be interested in knowing if a 3hp Hitachi motor chewing through a bunch of wood would do the same.

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks Gents!

I've been kicking around the idea of posting up some sketches when I start a project, but, to say the least, my sketches leave a bit to be desired. I basically draw in rough scale and then detail the joinery before I get started. They're useful to me, but most people who see them ask me what they're looking at.

Phil, the vacuum cleaner does work like a charm....hmmmm...gives me new leverage for trying to convince my wife about a bridgeport mill for the garage. 'Iron sculpture' has not been convincing, so maybe 'white noise machine - advanced level' might do the trick.

[Brian Holcombe]

Moving forward, some of the last part of the assembly and then onto detail work;
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/E7AE017F-2F6F-42DC-AAF1-2E5A8BA6F10D_zpsoqcjelrh.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/E7AE017F-2F6F-42DC-AAF1-2E5A8BA6F10D_zpsoqcjelrh.jpg.html)

These are being located with bamboo pins;
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/313CB3F8-EAC5-4226-AFE7-18A57FE1A213_zpsztels543.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/313CB3F8-EAC5-4226-AFE7-18A57FE1A213_zpsztels543.jpg.html)

[Brian Holcombe]

All finished :)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/C5C18EF9-D5A8-4FB9-82C6-637A1EA512CE_zpsqyjnrzxk.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/C5C18EF9-D5A8-4FB9-82C6-637A1EA512CE_zpsqyjnrzxk.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/677AA3CC-6CD5-4957-98FE-E86867D35000_zps0fqokblq.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/677AA3CC-6CD5-4957-98FE-E86867D35000_zps0fqokblq.jpg.html)
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/ACA9B159-D2FA-482F-861E-FE3A21F24C8D_zpsxtuo0tlx.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/ACA9B159-D2FA-482F-861E-FE3A21F24C8D_zpsxtuo0tlx.jpg.html)

thanks for watching!

ps the green paint is on its way out the door. Soon to be white which fits more with the austerity I prefer.

[Christopher Charles]

Looks great! I'm developing a bed design and may well adapt your design. May have been mentioned before, but can i ask what your source for inspiration was?

Cheers,
Chris

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks Chris! Couple things I would change in this one thing being that I would move the legs out about 2" per leg. I went by the golden ratio for proportion, but infact I think they would be better slightly further apart.

My inspiration, Chris Hall of The Carpentry Way really has pushed me to delve deeper and I believe that encouraged me to take this a step further than I had originally planned.

My style is heavily staked in Modernism and Japanese aesthetic. So I find inspiration in the work of Le Corbusier, Charlotte Perriand, Nakashima as much as I do narrative of Soetsu Yanagi. I also have found inspiration in the work of many unknown craftsmen.

[Derek Cohen]

Nice work Brian!

The whole piece is deceptively simple - the clean lines are counterbalanced by the complex joinery.

Next time just Domino it together. :)

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Christopher Charles]

Hello Brian,

Chris' work and blog are amazing--are you taking any of his courses? My aesthetic sense runs in the same vein(s)--thanks for sharing names as I haven't heard of a couple of them and will pursue in future research.

Best,
C

[Brian Holcombe]

Hah! Thanks Derek!

Anytime Chris! If you need more people to research let me know I have plenty. I took the advice of Gordon Bunshaft (not directed at me, just general advice) to live life, travel, visit many museums and take in as much as you possibly can to build up a mental design reservoir. Draw from that reservoir as you design not by copying but just having good design in your mind as you create.

Regretfully I haven't signed up for Chris' courses, but I do have his e-books and have studied his work. Unfortunately October is about the worst time of year for me to try and leave for any period of time.

[Ryan Mooney]

I might say its somewhat over designed given its simplicity, but delightfully so :D Nicely done indeed.The joinery on the leg dovetails is particularly attractive.


Looking at the finished product the only Q I really have is how stable the bed is front-back with the legs set that far back if you sit on the end of it? I messed up a bench by setting the legs in a smidge to far from the end a couple of years back so am somewhat over-sensitive to that part of the layout :D

[Brian Holcombe]

Hah, that's certainly true. I'm guilty of making this one a bit complicated. Thank you though, I also really like how the dovetails look on the legs.

I would move the legs out a bit on a second version of this, however I can actually sit on the far end of the bed without it lifting or even starting to lift. If two people sat on one end it might be a problem.

When I build another one for our master bedroom (I built one about 5-6 years ago in a hurry so I have designs on rebuilding it) I plan to take a wider stance.

[Ryan Mooney]

I would move the legs out a bit on a second version of this, however I can actually sit on the far end of the bed without it lifting or even starting to lift. If two people sat on one end it might be a problem.

Hard to argue with success, and seems fairly unlikely that more than one person would sit on the end of it given its a single bed.

[Brian Holcombe]

I agree, infact I've seen daybeds with a similar layout. I've come to find that in most of my builds using the golden ratio puts the legs a little far in for the most part. I think I will change my layouts to show a golden ratio layout inside of the legs rather than to the outside of the legs.

[Brian Holcombe]

It's been three years since I made this, I recently was commissioned to build it again and have been doing so for a bit. I made some changes and thought I would outline those changes, given the comments in the 'artistry' thread.

I planned around chamfers for the legs by continuing the dovetail, then chamfering under the rail before installing the legs. This made a neat connection where it was not so neat the first time around:

https://brianholcombewoodworker.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/IMG_1994.jpg

I like how it affected the shape of the leg, moving from square to slightly chamfered (14 degrees).

I was careful not to apply knife marks at the top of the bed, but they are there underneath. Unfortunately I find them hard to avoid but also a PITA for stuff like this. They always cause a minor chip out in this case.

https://brianholcombewoodworker.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/IMG_1995.jpg

I changed the proportions slightly, putting the legs farther from center, the original is fine unless you stand on the end of it, but being that this is a full size and for a client rather than myself I decided that it would be best to be on the cautious side.

https://brianholcombewoodworker.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/IMG_1997.jpg

I cut through dovetails on both sides this time, simplified the joint in doing so making the cutout easier and cleaner. There will be another dovetailed connection joining the bed together as it did previously but in this case the top will be capped with a short dovetail that is non-structural.

https://brianholcombewoodworker.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/IMG_1996.jpg

[Brian Holcombe]

View from the street:

https://brianholcombewoodworker.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/IMG_2004.jpg

https://brianholcombewoodworker.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/IMG_2006.jpg

Overhead, just showing the tight fit, this gets trimmed then the entire upper gets chamfered.


https://brianholcombewoodworker.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/IMG_2003.jpg

[brian zawatsky]

Brian your joinery is air-tight. I have achieved that level of tolerance with machined joints, but not yet with hand tools. Your pic-heavy threads inspire me to continue to practice, seeing that the level of accuracy you attain is indeed possible. Thanks as always for taking the time to document & share.

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks, Brian. The first iteration is near entirely hand tools, the second is a blend of hand and machine tools.

[Patrick Walsh]

First and I can’t help it but...

Do you realize you have brought back a three year old thread. Couldn’t help it as people have coranary attacks over such on these forums often. I get the context of you bringing this back and that it does not apply but I can’t help but be a jack ass.

Second you really have stopped with all these machine tools Brian. I. Very disappointed lol ;)


Thanks, Brian. The first iteration is near entirely hand tools, the second is a blend of hand and machine tools.

[brian zawatsky]

First and I can’t help it but...

Do you realize you have brought back a three year old thread. Couldn’t help it as people have coranary attacks over such on these forums often. I get the context of you bringing this back and that it does not apply but I can’t help but be a jack ass.

Says the guy with a machine tool build thread in the hand tool forum LOL

(Just joking, Patrick :D)

[Brian Holcombe]

First and I can’t help it but...

Do you realize you have brought back a three year old thread. Couldn’t help it as people have coranary attacks over such on these forums often. I get the context of you bringing this back and that it does not apply but I can’t help but be a jack ass.

Second you really have stopped with all these machine tools Brian. I. Very disappointed lol ;)


:D Hehe. I'm finding I'm near max capacity for machines, but if find the right old Martin shaper and paint it to match the walls maybe my wife won't notice?

[Patrick Walsh]

Brian I read this on my phone sitting waiting for a pizza after spending all day driving around a 26” box truck picking up my new saw. I laughed sooooo hard as I can totally relate. My first thought was “dam that’s a really really good idea” lol


:D Hehe. I'm finding I'm near max capacity for machines, but if find the right old Martin shaper and paint it to match the walls maybe my wife won't notice?

[Patrick Walsh]

Says the guy with a machine tool build thread in the hand tool forum LOL

(Just joking, Patrick :D)


Play nice. I squared my mortise corners with a chisel. A very very very expensive overpriced one lol..

I also hand sanded everything to 400 grit. Took me five hours to work through those grits by hand with a block. The block counts as a hand tool doesn’t it ;)

I also cut the cheeks of my tenons with a hand saw and paired them back to my layout lines. Spoken like a true Bostonian I’m Wicked offended guy!

By the way Brian. The bed is very nice.

[brian zawatsky]

Play nice. I squared my mortise corners with a chisel. A very very very expensive overpriced one lol..

I also hand sanded everything to 400 grit. Took me five hours to work through those grits by hand with a block. The block counts as a hand tool doesn’t it ;)

I also cut the cheeks of my tenons with a hand saw and paired them back to my layout lines. Spoken like a true Bostonian I’m Wicked offended guy!

By the way Brian. The bed is very nice.

No offense intended, just my sarcastic sense of humor showing its ugly head LOL. And for the record, I use the jointer, planer, and table saw on pretty much everything I build otherwise I'd never actually complete anything.
Sorry for the short thread hijacking

[Patrick Walsh]

I was just playing back.

No offense taken.

Now back to Brian...

For real pretty talented guy to say the least. Have your seen him all dressed. Stylish devil also, I internet stalked a photo of him in what look to be a pair of Tom Ford sunglasses pulling a Uber thin shaving at a posh Brooklyn nerd fest.

Brain I say all the above “other than you being crazy talented” completely in jest and being nothing more than playful.

Ok time to walk the dog.



No offense intended, just my sarcastic sense of humor showing its ugly head LOL. And for the record, I use the jointer, planer, and table saw on pretty much everything I build otherwise I'd never actually complete anything.
Sorry for the short thread hijacking

[Brian Holcombe]

Thank you! Much appreciated. I have been driving toward tighter joinery over the past few years and machinery does help significantly in that regard but it cannot be done in my small shop without hand tools.

If the through wedged tenons weren’t so prominent on this piece I would have liked to replace them with a draw bored joint. Draw boring is truly demountable, where wedged tenons might be very difficult to take apart once glued. In the original it is glued to not come apart, but in this one I have been thinking to just use hide glue on the wedges. So, in theory at least, they could be steamed and driven out.

I planned this dovetail joint the same way, it’s hide glued, but I plan to leave the adjoining crossmember without glue then put in a dovetail on top that is removable.

[Brian Holcombe]

This was my setup for the dovetails. It's a tedious setup but allowed me to flip the stock and create and work from both sides. The stock had to be parallel, true and square and the miter had to be square to the travel...very square since flipping amplifies any error in squareness, which would make the dovetails out of parallel to one another causing the joint to gap at the corners. It would also cause the joint not to seat. I squared it up in advance using a precision square and many many checks.

The leg stock had to be identical in thickness, it was not in this case, so I had to account for that. I matched measurements using the section left between the dovetails as a reference.

https://brianholcombewoodworker.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/LulTfjujTH6lvt5tP7GQ-e1544373256416.jpg

[Patrick Walsh]

Nice and fun work you are doing.

Look at that neat tidy pile of sticks in the corner with all those tenon.

I like your style, I like it very much.

It brings calm to me just to see another maker so organized a deliberate.

Nothing new from you though.

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks, Patrick! I do enjoy it when there is a pile of completed parts neatly stacked.

[Brian Holcombe]

Nearly complete, I haven’t seated the wedged corner joints yet, they’re left open until I’m sure I can remove this from the shop. Measurements say yes but I plan to do a trial run.

https://brianholcombewoodworker.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/img_2126.jpg

https://brianholcombewoodworker.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/img_2130.jpg

https://brianholcombewoodworker.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/img_2127.jpg

This is not seated yet

https://brianholcombewoodworker.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/img_2128.jpg

https://brianholcombewoodworker.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/img_2129.jpg

https://brianholcombewoodworker.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/img_2131.jpg

[Mark Rainey]

Very skilled joinery Brian!

[Patrick McCarthy]

Amazing a nd inspiring, as always.

[Patrick McCarthy]

Brian, i seem to remember a special plane you have to do the edge chambering (guess that is redundant). What is it called, please?
Thank you, Patrick

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks gents!

Patrick, that would be a mentori ganna.