problem with 30 watt Zing, not engraving/cutting with ease anymore

[Paul Williams from Nunavut]

Greetings, all.

Recently, every engraving job I've tried to do involving laserable plastic has messed up, and I don't know why. My most recent fail, earlier today was to engrave some store name tags out of a medium I've used successfully in the past. I used the engraving settings as recommended (and previously used, a lot) for the Epilog Zing 30, and after my first run-through of rastering, everywhere that was supposed to be black was actually white (the material is a gold coloured thin membrane over the thicker black base). Where the white came from, I've no idea. I did the job again (using the same piece just rastered) and the white gradually got darker. Re-engraving over and over again, adjusting the speed (lower and lower) and the power (higher and higher) made only marginal gains, but I finally got it to where the application of some acetone could wipe off the white entirely.

Then I started to cut out the badges (finally, after about 35-40 minutes of rastering what should have been a 4 minute task), and ended up having to vector cut them three times. They finally got to the point where I could separate them from the plastic, with effort, but didn't look good at all.

I would upload fotos, but for some reason SMC keeps telling me that my jpegs "fail to upload".

Anyway, I've cleaned the mirrors, I think, along with the lens at the laser source and over the material, to no avail. Any suggestions/ideas would be greatly appreciated.

I have been doing these simple things off and on for a few years now; the only difference is that I recently signed on to LaserU from Laserbits, and started following their course; now the problems are cropping up. Coincidence? Very likely, but disconcerting, none the less. Thanks much folks.

[Scott Shepherd]

Just from the sound of it, it sounds like the tube going bad to me. That's going to be a call to Epilog to figure out, I think.

[Jeanette Brewer]

Paul,

Steve/Scott's advice is spot on -- contact Epilog tech support and they'll work with you to figure it out. 303-215-9171 tech@epiloglaser.com or initiate an online chat here --> https://www.epiloglaser.com/tech-support/technical-support.htm

[Ross Moshinsky]

30W you should be between 80-100% speed and 75-100% power. Vector cutting should be 100% power and 5-12% speed.

Are those the setting you're using?

[Neil Pabia]

30W you should be between 80-100% speed and 75-100% power. Vector cutting should be 100% power and 5-12% speed.

Are those the setting you're using?

Not trying to change the subject but for a name tag shouldn't the speed be brought down along with the power as to not overheat the x drive motor? I burned out a motor by running it at the recommended speed and power according to the book but was told by the tech that for a small item I should have run it slower.

[Scott Shepherd]

Not trying to change the subject but for a name tag shouldn't the speed be brought down along with the power as to not overheat the x drive motor? I burned out a motor by running it at the recommended speed and power according to the book but was told by the tech that for a small item I should have run it slower.

That's the second time in a month that I've heard Epilog's tech support telling people not to run their machines at 100%. That's a very disturbing thing to tell customers that bought your machines based on the speeds posted in your marketing material. What's the point of saying you have a machine that engraves at 90 ips if you have to slow it down to 70 ips to keep it from burning motors up?

[Bill George]

If you have a Stepper motor burnt out its not because they were ran to fast. They might have too much voltage and current being supplied, but that's not the fault of the user, but the programmer or designer.

http://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/threads/stepper-motor-overdriving.8583/

[Neil Pabia]

I bought a replacement motor from them and it burned out after rastering 2 glasses, they sent me another motor with a cooling fan upgrade after that and I haven't had a problem since. When engraving a small area, if the machine is only going 3 inches, it can't get up to full speed anyways. Running it at a slower speed didn't add any time onto the engraving.

[Ron Philman]

That's the second time in a month that I've heard Epilog's tech support telling people not to run their machines at 100%. That's a very disturbing thing to tell customers that bought your machines based on the speeds posted in your marketing material. What's the point of saying you have a machine that engraves at 90 ips if you have to slow it down to 70 ips to keep it from burning motors up?

Agree. And at 30 watts you're pretty much left to engraving...Epilog knows that. If youre wanting to cut w/ 30 its going to be disappointing. What's Epilog charge for tube repair?

[Kev Williams]

So lets see, suppose I go to my local Dodge dealer and plunk down $60 Large for a 707hp Challenger Hellcat,
http://www.engraver1.com/gifs/gears.gif
...and the 4th trip down the drag strip the input shaft on the transmission snaps in half.
http://www.engraver1.com/gifs/mad2.gif
And suppose I call the Mopar service department, and explain what happened, and get told "just don't drive so fast,
and maybe the transmission won't break".
http://www.engraver1.com/gifs/banghead.gif

Ok, maybe not the best analogy, but if that's the type of lame bandaid advice Epilog is giving their customers, I guess I won't be getting
an Epilog any time soon.

Everyone complains about Gravograph's customer service. Myself, I think I'd prefer no answers to ridiculous answers...

==================
As for the lack of power, my BIL is going thru the same thing with his 40w LS800. Overnight with no warning whatsoever, his output power went to exactly half. Our NH rep has a beam tester and measured the beam from the tube, after the first mirror, 2nd mirror, third mirror and the focused dot. A nice, even, unwavering 20 watt output in all tests. He's used it for a couple of weeks like this now, and other than it's now a 20 watt laser, it works perfectly. Our best guess is the tube is bad. I'm in the process of trying to figure out if these places on ebay who'll recharge a 40w Synrad for $850 are on the up & up...

[Mike Null]

At least give Photovac a call to see what they'd charge. You'll get a guarantee and their service is proven.

[Neil Pabia]

So lets see, suppose I go to my local Dodge dealer and plunk down $60 Large for a 707hp Challenger Hellcat,
http://www.engraver1.com/gifs/gears.gif
...and the 4th trip down the drag strip the input shaft on the transmission snaps in half.
http://www.engraver1.com/gifs/mad2.gif
And suppose I call the Mopar service department, and explain what happened, and get told "just don't drive so fast,
and maybe the transmission won't break".
http://www.engraver1.com/gifs/banghead.gif

Ok, maybe not the best analogy, but if that's the type of lame bandaid advice Epilog is giving their customers, I guess I won't be getting
an Epilog any time soon.

Everyone complains about Gravograph's customer service. Myself, I think I'd prefer no answers to ridiculous answers...

...

First off, if you buy one of those cars, I want a ride.

I think what they are saying is that if you buy that car, don't floor it at every light(even though we both know we will) just to move ten feet. It can't get up to full speed in such a short distance which just puts more strain on the driveline trying to do so and will cause the clutch to overheat..

Now, I am going to get into some trouble with my boss because you have caused me to have the uncontrollable urge to go to the local dodge dealer and check out one of those cars. They sound like fun.

[Paul Williams from Nunavut]

Thanks, folks, I'll give Epilog a call next week. Sadly I had to leave the computer for a while and I'm just getting caught up. Have a good weekend. Paul+

[Paul Williams from Nunavut]

Okay, so I've replaced the tube (who knew what that would cost, wow!). Sadly the same original problem persists. However, I finally got the courage to actually take the mirrors out of their settings, instead of trying to clean them in place. What I found, on the third mirror (second last before the beam gets to my material) is some serious blemish development, with a little bit also on the (fourth) final mirror. It almost looks like the mirror has developed acne, or sun-spots. To be expected, I suppose. The unit is a 2010 model, even though it hasn't been used a whole lot, by some standards.

My suspicion is that I'll have to get new mirrors for at least those two places. Should I buy a complete mirror unit, or buy the pieces and glue it together myself? My inclination is to buy the whole thing, as I'm a bit messy with precision gluing. And then, would it better better to buy from Epilog, or is there an after-market dealer that can be recommended? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

[Paul Williams from Nunavut]

sooooo, I'm back, and have replaced the tube, and all the mirrors, and it works great on wood.

Laserable plastic, not so much. I'm still not getting enough right through the material to cut out the name tags that I've been doing, and on those occasions where it does cut through, I'm getting a lot of burn on the face of the tag.

My settings have usually been at the factory recommended of 100speed/60power for rastering (more or less okay), and 50speed/30power/5000freq. Someone recommended doing a two step approach, rastering and then vectoring, with a mask, but then the mask (both commercial and wet papertowel) don't cut at all. My depth to the material face appears to be approx. 2 inches from the lens, and I have a honeycomb table under the material. At this point, short of getting a sledge hammer or axe, any advice would be helpful, please and thank you.

[Tony Lenkic]

Paul,

Two things come to mind----
1) are you using vector cutting table and what masking paper are you using,
2) is plastic you are cutting laserable type product (modified acrylic) not abs type for rotary engraving.

I would suggest using low to medium tack transfer tapes sign guys use in their applications. Also can you set for two passes on vector cutting just to make sure that if first pass did not cut right through.
In some applications I also run two step process. First engrave / remove the sheet apply transfer tape / reload to engraver than vector cut. Typically this is done when registration may be of issue.

[Paul Williams from Nunavut]

Hi, Tony. I have to assume it is laserable plastic, as I got it from Laserbits, they knowing what I needed it for. Not sure what you mean by a vector cutting table. It is the one that came with the machine with a grid pattern to allow heat to pass through. I believe that the tacking is medium grade.

I'll try your suggestion of a two step cutting pass. Thanks, Paul+

[Bill George]

Hi, Tony. I have to assume it is laserable plastic, as I got it from Laserbits, they knowing what I needed it for. Not sure what you mean by a vector cutting table. It is the one that came with the machine with a grid pattern to allow heat to pass through. I believe that the tacking is medium grade.

I'll try your suggestion of a two step cutting pass. Thanks, Paul+

What was the part or product number you received from LaserBits? Its possible they sent you the wrong stuff.

[Bert Kemp]

Yea I got the wrong stuff once and I was at the store told them exactly what I wanted showed them in the show room. They packed it up in a bag when I got home took it out it was the wrong item. They made it right mailed the right stuff next day.


What was the part or product number you received from LaserBits? Its possible they sent you the wrong stuff.

[Jerome Stanek]

Yea I got the wrong stuff once and I was at the store told them exactly what I wanted showed them in the show room. They packed it up in a bag when I got home took it out it was the wrong item. They made it right mailed the right stuff next day.

What store was this as I also got some that was wrong

[Paul Williams from Nunavut]

I'll have to check, but thanks for the heads up, Jerome and Bert.

I was finally able to get the name tags done with minimal flaring and burn, but it took quite a few passes (two to engrave; four to cut right through the material (1.5mm/0.059in) using a tacky mask. Settings were 35s/100p for the engraving and 20s/40p/5000freq. I wasn't happy by any means as I used to be able to do all in one pass using the standard settings as per the manual.