12x30 Workshop About To Become A Reality

[Steve Kinnaird]

I started buying wood working tools about 3 years ago and planned on converting a 12 x 20 ft space in our 1 car garage into a workshop.
Well, as we all know plans can change. My son and his 2 kids (our grandchildren) needed a place to stay after his divorce and the garage became an over stuffed storage unit. :eek: The only tools that I can get to are my drill press and 12" chop saw.
So I finally got everything to workout so that could order a Lark 12x30 Lumberjack Shed with 8ft walls.
I will have a 9ft wide roll-up door on one of the 12ft walls and a 36in door on the side.
I plan to run a 100amp service to the sub-panel(75 ft distance).
I willpre-wire with 12-2 w/ground on 20amp breakers.
Eachpiece of equipment will get a dedicated circuit.
Sincereading another thread, I realize that the 10-2 w/ground would be better for the my Tablesaw, DC and the Planer.
This will all be run in the walls and ceiling prior to covering the walls with 7/16" OSB so that I can nail & screws whatever to the walls.
I live onthe Space Coast of Florida and the shed only has aluminum siding and a steelroof and open 24" on center walls and rafters.
I havebeen looking at Reflectix insulation in the walls and in the rafters.
I have afriend that owns an A/C company and he will be installing a 2 ton central airunit for me.
Again, because of what I have read in a previous thread, I will be moving my DC & Air Compressor outside in a room of their own.
I have inserted the layout that I am considering. Any and all suggestions are welcome.

Getting ready to live the dream :)

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Steve

[Lloyd McKinlay]

My first impression is the passageways seem awfully tight assuming everything is drawn to scale. For example you only have one foot between wood storage and the table saw and a probably less than two feet between the corner of the saw and the toolbox. It can work but, considering you will frequently have your hands full, it gets tiresome.

[Steve Kinnaird]

Not to scale. :)
Everything is approximate.
I need to measure the tools and get a better idea of how it fits.
With the shed only being 12ft wide, I am sure I will have a few tight spots.
Everything is on wheels, so that should help some.

[John K Jordan]

Designing a shop layout is exciting! I planned and revised my shop layout for at least a year before I built the building. My favorite way to tune the layout is by sliding paper cutouts around on a scale drawing of the space. My scale cutouts included in-feed and out-feed areas for the lengths I planned to work with. For walking space, I used stacked boxes and things to make a full size isle to make sure it was sufficient.

One thing that caught my eye was the bandsaw placement. I like the bandsaw against a wall but with access on all three sides. If it is on wheels, it could be pulled out from the location currently on your plan. The bandsaw is probably the tool I use the most after the lathe.

I have a 22-44 drum sander that I don't have proper room for but I have it on wheels and pull it out into a walkway for use. One issue with mobile machines like that is how to hook up the dust collection. My drops are from the ceiling so I had to provide enough flex hose to reach to the working position - I didn't want to connect and disconnect hoses each time.

If this is a one-person shop you may not need that many separate electrical circuits since you will likely only use one tool at a time. Fewer circuits would be quicker to install and be less congested at the panel. I put 110v outlets every 4 ft or so in my shop plus some in the ceiling for reels and air cleaner.

I have lights in different areas on different switches. One thing I'm glad I did was position a number of LED lights spaced through my shop (I have several rooms) so I could see enough to walk anywhere without turning on the big work lights. Switches at the primary external doors switch all these "passage" lights at once.

I installed seven light fixtures in my main shop, each with four 4' T5 fluorescent bulbs at 5000 lumens/bulb, arranged in 4 zones. The ballasts are wired so when I throw a switch just two bulbs light in each fixture. I installed separate switches to turn on the other two bulbs when I want the extra light. This saves electricity since most of the time I don't need the extra light. I forgot to check - did you allow for an outside light or two? I like at least one motion-activated light.

Is a 2-ton air conditioner too big for that size shop in your area for your planned insulation? My shop is 24x62 with 6" insulated walls and a 1.5 ton heat pump keeps things comfortable year round here in TN. If the unit is bigger than needed it will cool faster but I understand it might cycle more often and be less efficient.

Have fun and good luck with your shop!

[Mike Heidrick]

A thought I had was with the garage door up it will cover the light over your saw. Do you work at night with the door up?

[Steve Kinnaird]

John -
Yes, I would love to move boxes around, but the shed won't be here for about 4 weeks :(
The band saw is on wheels and the plan is enough flex hose to move it out and use it.
The plan is for a duplex outlet every 4 ft and dedicated outlets for each piece of equipment.
For lighting, I am looking to use the Sam's Club or Costco Dual Lamp 4 ft LED lights.
I have a flood light outside over the roll-up door and a motion light outside of the side door.
My friend that owns the A/C company felt that anything less than 2 ton would struggle to quickly cool down the shop. It will n ot be on all the time, just when I am working in the shop. I will have thermostatically controlled vent fan to keep the shed from getting too hot.

[Steve Kinnaird]

It's a roll-up door, so the light are ok.
Thanks for checking :)

[Allan Speers]

My friend that owns the A/C company felt that anything less than 2 ton would struggle to quickly cool down the shop. It will n ot be on all the time, just when I am working in the shop. I will have thermostatically controlled vent fan to keep the shed from getting too hot.

I would ask your friend how well this will deal with humidity, esp since you are in Florida.

My understanding is that when you have too much AC, you end up with more humidity because it's always cycling off, whereas a slightly underpowered unit has a lot more time to dry the air. If that's true (I'm not 10% sure) thenI suppose you could compensate with a larger dehumidifer (with an outside heat exchanger) but then you are wasting quite a bit of electricity.

I think.

I'd be very interested to know what your friend thinks on this.

Regardless, if I had to choose between either "cool" or "dry," for the space where all my tools and machines live, I'd pick "dry" without blinking.

[Steve Kinnaird]

I will ask him
He too is a wood worker, so I trust his judgement.

[Steve Kinnaird]

OK, I measured each piece of equipment and have realized that I was way off on what I could put where :(
Instead of using blocks to equal 1' x 1', I redid everything with blocks equaling 1" x 1"
Here are the results......
I still need to add electric and DC Ducts.
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[John K Jordan]

John -
Yes, I would love to move boxes around, but the shed won't be here for about 4 weeks


I meant put some boxes or something in your kitchen or in the yard to mock up just the walking space between two tools and try to imagine if it will be enough or if you will feel squeezed. I did that when planning my shop and it helped me decide the size and placement of the workbench near my table saw and the space I needed for my wood storage area.


Another thing I did once I had the walls up but before moving everything in was mark the positions and size of things on the floor and walls with blue and green masking tape. This helped me visualize the space and fine tune some placements before I started moving in heavy things.

As for AC, I decided to insulate well and keep my HVAC on all the time. In the summer it helps to control the humidity - summers here are usually horribly humid. I have a lot of wood stored in the shop and I want to keep it as constant as possible. (The humidity is terrible for machine and woodworking tools too.) I sometimes adjust the temperature just a few degrees for comfort when I am working but not much. I remember now that was one thing the HVAC guy asked me when deciding between the 1.5 and 2 ton units - he said the smaller one would run more but be more efficient (heat pumps evidently work best when running almost continuously) and also keep the humidity more constant. He said the larger unit would cool things down faster if I turned it on just when I was in the shop, but would prob cost more to operate if used a lot and humidity would swing a lot more. You might ask your guy and see what he thinks. But any way you go, the heat and air (or maybe just AC in your climate) will be wonderful! So many people work without it. (I justified mine by being elderly and feeble and of a delicate constitution. Ha!)


JKJ

[Matt Day]

One simple suggestion - when install your lumber rack, leave some clearance at the height of the table saw, so if you have long stock to cut you gain some room by not hitting the lumber rack.

Shop layout is fun! Though time consuming.

[Steve Kinnaird]

Trying to get all my ducks in a row before the shed gets here.
The floor of the shed is 3/4" Pressure Treated Plywood.
What would be the best finish to put on this floor or should I leave it alone?

[Von Bickley]

It would be impossible for me to use a grinder, a drill press, a router, and other tools at the same time. In a one man shop, I don' think it would be necessary to have all these tools on separate circuits.

That's just my opinion from a retired electrician.

[Steve Kinnaird]

Thanks Von, I am trying to make it as fool proof as possible. I have plenty of 12-2 with ground wire and figured it better now than later.

As a retired electrician, can i use 1-3 Aluminum and a 5awg copper ground together?
I want to run a 100amp service to the shed.

[Kent Adams]

I have a workshop nearly exactly your size and I live in Zone 7b/8a, so we have high heat and high humidity in the summer months. My walls are OSB with reflectix on walls and ceiling, vinyl on the outside with 6 foot french doors on the end and 36 inch single door on the long side. I use a window unit to keep it cool and it keeps it very cool. I monitor the indoor humidity with a weather station and it rarely gets above 60% humidity in the most humid conditions. My OSB has the reflective insulation and I put a similar foam type of reflective over the plywood floor and then 3/4 inch maple on top of that sealed with bona sport poly seal. All the joists were carefully insulated with r-13, both walls and ceiling with 1/2 plywood on top of that. I sealed every single corner, window and even joist with silicone. My shed is nearly airtight. A 2 ton A/C would be ridiculous for this space. I leave my AC on all summer and the bills are not that much. Because I leave it on all the time, I control the humidity ( a killer for anything with cast iron or hand tools). You need to rethink not leaving it on unless you're in the shop. A 2 ton A/C will cycle on and off so much you'll have extended periods of time where the humidity will rise in your shop before the motor kicks back on. Unless its variable speed, that motor will get killed in short order. I would fear you'll have all sorts of condensation build up inside your building unless you seal it properly and size the A/C properly. You don't need more than the most powerful 115v window unit to cool it. I lowered my ceiling to 8 feet as well and put r-38 on top of it. That vent you're talking about, which I have one in my greenhouse, will kill your ability to control humidity in that space. I know the guy is a friend, but he doesn't know what he's talking about in my opinion.

100 amp service panel should be fine along with 10/2 wiring. I have the same light fixture set up as well, you might want to make sure you space them wide enough to fit in an air filtration system on the ceiling.

[Kent Adams]

I would be careful putting that dust collector outside as you'll be surprised at how much it is going to suck out from your conditioned space. If your building is not sealed nearly air tight, you'll be reintroducing more humidity and heat back into the building. I'm trying to figure this out for myself as well as the dc is a huge cost of space in workshops our size. At the minimum, you'll need a damper to control the airflow from the outside room back into your workshop. As the A/C is running, it will suck air from the outside back into your shop, causing your A/C to work harder to maintain conditions. In addition, your DC will be hot and humid outside and when you turn it on, you'll introduce cold air into the machine which could cause it to develop condensation and rust. I haven't figured this out yet myself. I'm thinking of just opening the wall up on one side and extending floor space out to accommodate my dc. Not an ideal situation keeping it in the shop or extending it outside the shop.

If I had to do it all again, I would have paid the extra money for 16 foot width.

[Von Bickley]

From the internet.....

You need a 3-3-3-5 copper SER cable to carry 100 amps (that's three #3 gauge for the two hot wires and the neutral and a #5 gauge for the ground). If you want to use aluminum, you need at least #2 gauge or perhaps #1.Jun 25, 2013


Or look here.....

http://www.cerrowire.com/ampacity-charts

[Tom Deutsch]

I understand where you're coming from on the narrow-ish shop. I just moved into a shop in my barn that is just over 11 feet by 24 feet. The great thing that both of us have, though, is an open end. That will make a big difference for any "cramping" issues. That, and being able to roll stuff around easily is the golden ticket.

[Steve Kinnaird]

Yes, I placed the table saw so that when the 9 ft roll-up door is open I can use the outside as additional shop space.

[Steve Kinnaird]

Von, here is what I found.
Will this work for a100 amp, 80 ft run, buried in 1 1/2 in PVC Conduit?

http://www.wireandcabletogo.com/1-3-2-ground-SER-Aluminum-Building-Wire.html

[Von Bickley]

Von, here is what I found.
Will this work for a100 amp, 80 ft run, buried in 1 1/2 in PVC Conduit?

http://www.wireandcabletogo.com/1-3-2-ground-SER-Aluminum-Building-Wire.html

According to the description, that should take care of you. They also make a special lubricant to put on aluminum wire connections. Get a small tube of this and make sure you have tight connections.

[Steve Kinnaird]

Thanks for the help :)

[Steve Kinnaird]

Christmas can't get here soon enough :(
OK, the delivery of my 12 x 30 shed can't get here soon enough, but it's like waiting for that very special gift at Christmas time.
I keep finding more and more things to add to the plan and better ways to do a lot of the things that I had planed.
I have a friend that owns an HVAC company. He has volunteered to come over and help me with the Dust Collection piping. He said that we can make the "Wye" parts rather than spend big bucks to buy them.
I am also looking into a retractable roll-up screen to have in place when the roll-up door is open. Just a few mosquitoes here in Florida. :eek:
I have decided to bite the bullet and buy the 3-3-3-5 Copper Wire and not mess with the Aluminum Wire.

Almost have the location for the shed ready. Need to move the carport and get rid of some old motorcycle parts and I will be ready. Here is a pic of where it will go.
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`

[Kent Adams]

Steve, are you still going with that 2 ton HVAC?

[Mike Heidrick]

What kind of site prep are you doing after you clean up?

[Steve Kinnaird]

Yes, It will not be on all the time. And when it is on, it will pull moisture out of the air.
I will consider leaving it on or using a dehumidifier if I end up with of a moisture build up.

[David Nelson1]

Hey Steve,

Your plan looks good for a narrow shop. Mine is just 2 foot wider than yours and I do have a bit more packed in. A couple of suggestions from my experience:

1)I would and did build my wood rack so it encroached the roll up door for more storage. I usually don't work with sheet goods but when I do I break it down with a track saw on the truck or saw horses. Your table saw can be repositioned if needed. Long cross cuts can be done on the RAS. I do work outside or at least move things out the shop to make extra room and wished I had some sort of a large awning either built into the build and permanently fixed or even one of those Sundowner deals that can be extended when needed.

2)My shop has no windows expect for the opening for the window HVAC unit so plan on a trial and error method for good shop lighting to simulate day light. I have yet to hit the right combo, but hand held portable lighting has been beneficial for highlighting finishing details that would have and did go unnoticed until the piece hit outside light.

3)I'm still pushing around a portable collector and it takes up quite a bit of shop space. It's a good idea to have a stationary location and it looks as if you wont need more than two drops for the larger machines planer, jointer, and table saw. Router table and the RAS can be shop vacs? I would move the area that houses your compressor and D/C to the middle of the building for equal and shorter runs.

4) You mentioned your a retired electrician so moving wiring if your shop needs changes won't be a bid deal unless you bury the wiring in the walls. I studded, insulated and dry walled then added the wiring. I have a lot of temp wiring going on but plan on finishing mine this winter. I'm glad I went that route since things have moved at least three times.

Good luck with the shop! Looking forward to seeing some progress pics. I added a few pics for your entertainment.

[Steve Kinnaird]

Hi David,

Thanks for the suggestions. Nice pics, I think you need more wood :) . I like the high walls. I am limited to 8' due to getting a pre-built shed.


1) The lumber storage area will more than likely take more room than I have drawn into the layout as things come together. I will build a deck outside of the roll-up door to work outside. I like the Sundowner option.

2) Yes, lighting is a big concern. I will have 12 - ft dual element LED shop lights. I elected not to add any windows for 2 reasons, first security and second flying wood chunks LOL

3) I like the idea of moving the out building more to the center for shorter runs. That makes sense, but I have a very large stump from a palm tree that is in the way :( . I could take the chainsaw to it and get it to ground level though. I will have 6 drops for dust collection. 1 - Table saw, 2 - RAS, 3 - Router Table, 4 - Lathe, 5 - Floor Sweep and 6 - a drop with a long flex hose dropped here the roll-up door.

4) My wording in a post was directed at a retired electrician. I am proficient and running all my wiring, but am not a retired electrician. My plan is to drill all the holes for the wiring, mount the outlet and switch boxes, insulate, then run all the wire and cover with 7/16" OSB. All of the outlets will 20 amp and be wired with 12-3, the lights will be 15 amp with 14-3 and the dust collector and table saw will be 20 amp with 10-3.

[David Nelson1]

Footers and cider block foundation will be a big plus for head room when you need to flip a long board around, but that means a large roll up door. How are going to keep moister out of the flooring?

[Steve Kinnaird]

Not sure if I will have a moisture issue.
I have a 12 x 12 shed by the same mfg and I have no issues what so ever.
All of the floor joist and plywood flooring are pressure treated.

[Steve Kinnaird]

I picked up 1 of the Lights America 4 ft LED Shop Light's from Sam's Club today for $36.87.
It is rated at 40 Watts & 4,200 Lumens and is Bright White 5,000K
I hung this one in the laundry area of the garage to check it out. Tried removing the existing incandescent bulb, screwing in an outlet adapter and using a 3 prong to 2 prong adapter. That didn't work. The light requires a ground to work. So I will be replacing that light socket with a duplex outlet.
I am pleased with the amount of light it produces and will have 12 of these for the shop lighting.
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[Jim Andrew]

Just wanted to let you know I have a 26 x 50 shop, and use a 2 ton central ac unit to cool it. It does cool the shop about 20 degrees lower than outside temperature.

[Steve Kinnaird]

That's COOL :D
What part of the country are you in?

[Kent Adams]

Of course it will cool the workshop, but what is your humidity curve? Humidity is the problem with tools made from steel and cast iron that is the concern, not whether the 2 ton unit can cool the space. Right now, it is 90 degrees outside where I live and 89% humidity. I have an 11k window unit, well insulated walls and ceilings with every jointed sealed and my humidity in the shop is 29%. The temp inside the shop is 74 degrees.

[Andy Misco]

:cool: Cool, I'm having "Shop Envy"

[Steve Kinnaird]

I will not know until I get the shop up and running.
I can at that time decide to run the air continuously at maybe a little higher temp when no using the shop or install a dehumidifier.
Trust me, where I live is very humid, central east coast of Florida.

[Steve Kinnaird]

Thanks!
It will soon become a reality :)

[Steve Kinnaird]

Great news !!!!!!

The shed has been delivered from the factory to the local dealer.
I will go by and check it out and schedule a delivery date.

Love it when a plan starts to come together.

[John Donofrio]

Great news !!!!!!


Awesome to hear Steve. Can't wait for the pics to start rolling in!

[Steve Kinnaird]

Things are coming together.
I was scheduled for Jury Duty tomorrow. I called in tonight to see if I had to report and was told that I didn't have to report :)

That means that I can go to the shed dealer tomorrow and inspect the shed. If everything checks out, then I schedule a delivery and setup date.
I'm hoping for Wednesday LOL, but we will see.
Still need to take down the privacy fence on the side of the house for them to be able to get it into the backyard.

Can you tell that I am excited :)

[Steve Kinnaird]

Went an inspected the shed today.
Everything was perfect.
It will be delivered next Tuesday, June 30th
Here are some PIC's of the shed.
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[Von Bickley]

Looking good. Put in some wiring, insulate, put some plywood on the ceiling & walls, and you'll be ready to build some shop cabinets and make saw-dust.

Congratulations........ Post pictures as you go.

[Kent Adams]

I've never seen that type of bracing on a shed before, is that because of where you live (i.e. hurricanes)?

[Steve Kinnaird]

I've never seen that type of bracing on a shed before, is that because of where you live (i.e. hurricanes)?

It may be. It has to be certified for 150 mph winds.
I have seen other sheds that are not as well built. Lark does a great job. This is the second shed that I have gotten from them.
They are built in Vadalia, GA. It even came with some Vadalia Sweet Onions :)

[Jim Dwight]

I had a third garage stall added last year that is 14x24 - so not a lot different in size. I have a 9 foot garage door at one end an a 36 inch door at the other end + two windows.

I use 7/16 waferboard on the walls (mine are only partially done) that I skim coat with drywall compound and paint with cheap ceiling paint. The drywall compound fills the small voids pretty well and the paint brightens things up a lot.

I am at the other end of your plan for wiring. I have only two circuits in my shop. One 20 amp 110V circuit for tools and a 15amp circuit for lights. I put a few outlets off the lighting circuit in case I ever have to use them. I had the same sort of setup in my last shop and it worked well for me for over 10 years. I can only use one tool at a time and it is only me using the shop. I have no tools that need 220V or more than 20A. I kind of wanted a 220V for possible welder use but didn't have the wire run and would probably never use it anyway. My son has multiple welders and isn't far away. My outlets are about 4 feet off the floor. I have 6 cheap 2 bulb light fixtures with 60W equivalent CFLs that give me enough light. If I ever need more, I will use the larger 23W CFLs (100W equivalent).

I used to have a big table saw and used my workbench for outfeed support. I used the router table for infeed support. These days I use a track saw and don't need so much space for the table saw. I think the track saw/table saw combination is better - at least for me. I also put a 12 inch CMS next to my RAS on the same bench and they will share stops. I like doing angles on the CMS and wider straight cuts and dados on the RAS. My dust collection is a shop vacuum/dust deputy combination on a cart. I have a small DC but haven't hooked it up. I don't have space for both and need the shop vacuum for the track saw and smaller tools. It works fine on my Ryobi BT3100 table saw.

[Steve Kinnaird]

Hi Jim, Thanks for sharing.
I am putting down a wood laminate floor, OSB on the walls and ceiling. The ceiling will be bright white, the wall color is up in the air. Believe it or not, I am considering a Neon Green, Hemi Orange or Bright Yellow. Just want a little excitement in the color :)
I will have 12 - 4 ft dual row LED shop lights for lighting. I will have an outlet every 4 feet and they will be 56" above the floor. I will need 220v outlets. I am buying the Grizzly 17" Band Saw that is wired for 220v and my Table Saw will convert to 220v. They will run more efficiently on 220v.

[Jim Dwight]

Steve,

I would insulate with plain old R-13 batts, more in the ceiling if it will fit. I'm a mechanical engineer and very skeptical of radiant barriers. Thermal energy transfer by radiation is a function of the temperature difference to the fourth power. The sun gets us energy this way because it is extremely hot. Reflecting it's energy makes sense. But reflecting away the outside wall temperature (less than 200 F) just doesn't make sense. You also need insulation in the floor if there is a way to do it. Decently insulated I am pretty sure a small window unit will cool your shop. If you don't want to do it that way, you could use a small ductless system. They are very efficient and can be installed pretty easily.

My wood rack is 18 inch pieces of 3/4 conduit in holes in doubled 2x4s on the wall above my RAS and CMS. Most of my wall studs were doubled by the contractor. The original garage was ballon framed and he conventionally framed the addition and added his own studs. I added a few to give me all doubles. It's a cheap way to make a sturdy rack. I have it loaded up with oak and it seems fine.

My outlets are also on 4 foot centers.

Jim

[Jim Andrew]

My shop is in central Kansas, it has been above 100 a few days this week. Good for wheat harvest, would say for hay too, but my baler plugged twice today on wet hay, been cut since last Saturday. The 2 ton ac has not been on, but my thinking is 2 ton is much too much for your shop, when compared to my 26x 66. When I built my house, went crazy on insulation, it is over 1700 sf, and 2 tons cools it well. My wife sets it about 77, and it has been able to maintain that and turn off part of the time on these 100 plus days.

[Steve Kinnaird]

I am going to go with conventional paper backed fiberglass insulation. I am not comfortable with the reflective yet. I will use R13 in the walls and R30 in the ceiling. Both will be covered with 7/16" OSB. Would be very difficult to insulate the floor. It has 3/4" PT Plywood and I am adding a wood laminate over that.
The 2 ton A/C unit is coming from a fellow wood worker that owns an A/C company. I totally trust his judgement on this. Might be over kill by many opinions, but it is what we are going to do.

6 MORE DAYS !!!!! SHED WILL BE HERE !!!!

[Von Bickley]

6 MORE DAYS !!!!! SHED WILL BE HERE !!!!

You can not call it a shed. It deserves a better name such as work-shop, wood-shop, Steve's place, or just shop.

[Steve Kinnaird]

You can not call it a shed. It deserves a better name such as work-shop, wood-shop, Steve's place, or just shop.

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Until it gets here and is converted from a simple shed to an incredible wood working shop, it's just a SHED :)

On Tuesday, I will officially start calling it Steve's Wood Working Shop :)

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[Steve Kinnaird]

Update ................

5 MORE DAYS !!!!!!
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[Mike Heidrick]

Love the construction picture Steve. Congrats my friend.

[Steve Kinnaird]

3 MORE DAYS!!!!!

Went to HD today and picked up my Main Breaker Panel (Sub-Panel), 40 Outlet boxes, 6 switch boxes, breakers, etc.
I got all the outlets and covers via UPS yesterday. Found the best deal was at http://www.deepsurplus.com

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Yes, I know that I have to add a separate ground bar to this panel. Already have it.
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[Steve Kinnaird]

The shed, from now on know as The Work Shop as arrived !!!!
Let the build out begin.
Here is a short video of the delivery.
I had to go to work half way through the delivery
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JVxXQ0EcUU4

[Jim Dwight]

Congratulations!!!!!!!!!!!

[David Dryden]

Congratulations! I used to live in Palm Bay years ago. Good thing you're gonna have A/C. It gets hot down there!

[Steve Kinnaird]

Thanks guys.
Setup a folding table and took the sub-panel and electrical pieces and parts out there tonight.
Hope to get a little done each evening and make big strides on the weekends.
Definitely need a set of steps. The 18" first step is just a little too much :)

[Von Bickley]

I had to go to work half way through the delivery

I would have to call in sick.......

[Steve Kinnaird]

I would have to call in sick.......

If only it was that easy :)

[Marion Smith]

Very nice Steve! Congratulations! :)
I sure wouldn't want to be the one driving the shed around the yard tho!

[Steve Kinnaird]

Very nice Steve! Congratulations! :)
I sure wouldn't want to be the one driving the shed around the yard tho!

He is quite the pro at driving the "Mule". He made it look like anyone could do it.

[Steve Kinnaird]

Had a little time tonight to get the electrical outlet boxes mounted.
I still need to pick up 6 dual outlet (4) boxes tomorrow.
Also removed the interior shear braces. The OSB will add all the shear bracing back it.
Hope to get the Sub-Panel mounted tomorrow and get most of the 12/2 wiring done.
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[Von Bickley]

Never seen that many outlets on a wall that length. Do you think you have enough. I think I saw 2 or 3 studs that don't have one.

Just kidding....... Now pull some wire and get it powered up........ Looking GOOD......

[Steve Kinnaird]

Never seen that many outlets on a wall that length. Do you think you have enough. I think I saw 2 or 3 studs that don't have one.

Just kidding....... Now pull some wire and get it powered up........ Looking GOOD......

Darn, did I miss some LOL

[Steve Kinnaird]

Got all of the 15AMP & 20AMP boxes wired tonight.
Need to pick up some 10/2 wire for the 220v 20AMP boxes and the 120v 20AMP boxes for the bigger machines like the DC, RAS, Compressor & Router Table.

Sub-Panel Mounter and the 15 & 20 AMP wires installed to their breaker.

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[Steve Kinnaird]

Got more wiring done tonight.
Ran all of the 10/2 wire for the 20amp 220v outlets and dedicated 20amp 120v outlets for the machines.
Got the 6 gang box assembled, mounted and grounded for the switched.
Still need to put a floor outlet in for the table saw.
Hoping I can switch the Delta Contractor Saw to 20amp 220v. Can't get to it right now. It is buried in the garage :(

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[Mike Heidrick]

Not understanding why 10/2 for 120v? 12ga is 20amp. 10ga is 30amp. Why would you run 10ga for anything 120v? Just asking as I am in my wall wiring plans now.

[Steve Kinnaird]

Not understanding why 10/2 for 120v? 12ga is 20amp. 10ga is 30amp. Why would you run 10ga for anything 120v? Just asking as I am in my wall wiring plans now.

I ran a dedicated line of 10/2 - 120v for my Dust Collector, Air Compressor, Lathe, RAS & Router Table.
No specific reason, but if I ever upgrade those machines and need a 30amp line, I am all set.

[Mike Heidrick]

Ok that makes sense - future proof of those boxes to change to 30amp 220v in the future if you ever want to. Thank you.

[Von Bickley]

Do you have a 6 gang switch plate?

[Steve Kinnaird]

Do you have a 6 gang switch plate?

Yes, I do.
Also have a 5 gang switch cover that they shipped me by mistake. Not worth the cost of shipping to return.

Here is the link, they are very reasonably prices ........... http://www.deepsurplus.com/

[John Donofrio]

Looking good Steve! Enjoy the process. I remember a similar level of excitement when my shop was going up.

One thing I haven't seen mentioned; do you plan to put protective plates on the face of the studs at all locations where wire runs through them? Minimal cost for protection against a screw or nail hitting a line inside the wall.

[Steve Kinnaird]

Looking good Steve! Enjoy the process. I remember a similar level of excitement when my shop was going up.

One thing I haven't seen mentioned; do you plan to put protective plates on the face of the studs at all locations where wire runs through them? Minimal cost for protection against a screw or nail hitting a line inside the wall.

John, I didn't plan on adding the plates. 1" holes are drilled slightly off center to the back of the stud. But after giving it some thought, I think you're right. I should add them. If I am adding shelves or cabinets, I might be looking for extra long screws to make it as sure as possible. Will I remember exactly where each wire run is, probably not :(
Thanks for asking, it only makes sense to be on the cautious side and be safe.

[Steve Kinnaird]

Started adding the protective plates over any wire pass through. Only have about 70 of them
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[Mike Wilkins]

Smart move on the protective plates. When you start hanging cabinets on the walls, the peace of mind will be invaluable. You can't trust to remember the location of the wiring in those walls after you get them covered.
Looking good.

[Steve Kinnaird]

I got all of the metal plates installed over any area that wiring ran through the stud.
My 220v Outlets and Cover Plates came in today.
Wanted them to stand out, what do you think?

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[Von Bickley]

If you have all of your rough-in wiring complete, lets get some insulation in........

[Steve Kinnaird]

Yes the insulation is next, but will have to wait until the end of next week.
Very busy for the next few days :(
Then it will be time to make it happen.
I have decided to not use OSB on the walls and ceiling.
I will use 15/32" BC Plywood on the walls and light weight 1/2" drywall on the ceilings.

[Steve Kinnaird]

I have been very busy, but found some time tonight to run some more wire. Like I needed more outlets LOL
Actually what I ran was for an exterior 20amp Outlet with a 20amp GFCI outlet inside.
I also ran a dedicated line to the location for the outside LED motion lights.
And finally, I ran a 10/2 line to the back corner of the shop where it will go to an outside box. It is not connected inside the breaker panel or to anything outside.
If I ever get the outside room for the dust collector & Air Compressor, this will be the feed line.

[Von Bickley]

I will use 15/32" BC Plywood on the walls and light weight 1/2" drywall on the ceilings.

I like the idea of plywood on the walls. I would probably use it on the ceiling as well, maybe 3/8 inch.

[Steve Kinnaird]

I like the idea of plywood on the walls. I would probably use it on the ceiling as well, maybe 3/8 inch.

Looked at use the 3/8 on the ceiling, but the drywall will be easier to form to the pitch and flat areas.

Seeing as my 401k funds that I requested have not shown up yet, I found other things to keep me busy until I can purchase the insulation, plywood & drywall.

I did build my first ever set of stair stringers today. Was surprised at how easy it was :)
No sooner got them done and the everyday every afternoon rains moved in :(
I did cut a third stringer for the center. Thought 2 would be enough, but will add the third to eliminate the flex of the 5/4 deck board.

I spent most of the evening emptying the workshop and sweeping the floor.
I found at lest 30 or 40 screws in the floor that will need to be tightened down. Metal dust pan edge finds the high screws very easily.
After I get them tightened down tomorrow afternoon, I hope to get the acrylic floor stain / sealer down.

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[Steve Kinnaird]

Got the floor stained today.
Now I can start moving in the tools that I will need to put up the walls and ceiling.
Then it will be time to build all the work benches and such.
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[Steve Kinnaird]

Things are starting to come together.
I picked up the wire to go from the garage to the shop and the wall insulation.
Tomorrow I will get the ceiling insulation and the OSB plywood to cover the walls. Yes, i went back to the OSB. The B-C 15/32 plywood is 3 times the price and I can put that money into better things.
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[Steve Kinnaird]

Picked up the ceiling insulation and the 7/16" OSB plywood today.
Got the side light and motion light installed.
Will get the insulation done evenings this week and hope to hang OSB on the walls and ceilings next weekend.
Love the LED outside lights ......
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[Mike Wilkins]

OSB is on my shop walls, screwed to the studs in case I ever have to remove them later. Came in handy as I did not insulate the walls until years later.
I primed and painted them after adding insulation to hide the wood chip look. Some folks like this look, but I did not.
Insulating them now rather than later is a big benefit, as removing cabinets/shelves/machines was a lot of work. I know.
By the way; looking good so far.

[Steve Kinnaird]

OSB is on my shop walls, screwed to the studs in case I ever have to remove them later. Came in handy as I did not insulate the walls until years later.
I primed and painted them after adding insulation to hide the wood chip look. Some folks like this look, but I did not.
Insulating them now rather than later is a big benefit, as removing cabinets/shelves/machines was a lot of work. I know.
By the way; looking good so far.

Thanks Mike.
That was the reason that I wanted B-C Plywood, but at 3 times the cost, I decided the OSB will be fine and I have already bought white ceiling paint and Hawaiian Pineapple Yellow for the walls. I am sure it will make me feel like I am in Hawaii LOL, but it will brighten up the shop.

[Steve Kinnaird]

Speaking of brightening up the shop :)

I picked up the 4 ft. LED shop lights from SAM's today. I will use 12, but bought 13.
The extra will go into the garage to replace a standard T-5 shop light.

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[Jack Jackson]

I got 10 of the same lights to put in my shop. Let me know how you end up attaching them to the ceiling. 2 of mine came with 2x 1ft pcs of chain to hang them with but the others came with a cheap feeling plastic hanger that I won't be using. Kind of thinking about making up a thin strip of plywood and attaching maybe 2 or 3 lights to it then hanging the whole setup on the ceiling with screws so the lights aren't hanging down very far. Haven't decided yet. Looking forward to your progress.

[Peter Aeschliman]

I love how you put captions on your pictures!

Carry on. :)

[Steve Kinnaird]

I got 10 of the same lights to put in my shop. Let me know how you end up attaching them to the ceiling. 2 of mine came with 2x 1ft pcs of chain to hang them with but the others came with a cheap feeling plastic hanger that I won't be using. Kind of thinking about making up a thin strip of plywood and attaching maybe 2 or 3 lights to it then hanging the whole setup on the ceiling with screws so the lights aren't hanging down very far. Haven't decided yet. Looking forward to your progress.

I purchased one to try in our laundry room. I trimmed off the the tab that is designed for the chain connection. I then screwed the clip to the ceiling and snapped the light in. I seems to hold well, but not a 100% comfort level.
I have a couple ideas on how I might mount them in the workshop. I will post PIC's as I get to them.

[Steve Kinnaird]

I love how you put captions on your pictures!

Carry on. :)

Thanks :)
Helps tell the story a little better.

[Steve Kinnaird]

My Grizzly G0513ANV Bandsaw arrived today.
I decided to stick with this model rather than upgrade to a 17" with more bells and whistles and a brake system or a 19" with the same upgraded options. To spend $500 to $900 more didn't add up for me. It is a one man shop and if the bandsaw blade takes 30 seconds to stop, so be it.

I am still unpacking it, but here are a couple of PIC's ..........

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[Steve Kinnaird]

Got a couple thing started today.
Installed the 1st of 3 rows of R#) in the ceiling.
Installed the roll-up screen on the roll-up door opening.
Hooray, no more mosquitoes, hate them little buggers.

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[Chris Padilla]

Sounds like you're having a ball there, Steve! I love building shops...keeping them clean is another story! :D

[Steve Kinnaird]

Sounds like you're having a ball there, Steve! I love building shops...keeping them clean is another story! :D

Keeping them clean, no one told me I had to keep it clean....... I might need to rethink this

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[Von Bickley]

Keeping them clean, no one told me I had to keep it clean....... I might need to rethink this

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Put that roll-up door up, and turn on the leaf blower.

[Steve Kinnaird]

Put that roll-up door up, and turn on the leaf blower.

Hmmm....... Power Tools

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[Steve Kinnaird]

Found some time today to get a little more done.
Added the rope pulls for the screen. That completes the screen and will make it better for working at night. NO MOSQUITOES :)
My son and I removed all of the factory conduit, lights and outlets.
Then we finished 1 more row of ceiling insulation.

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[Steve Kinnaird]

Getting so close :)
Will start putting the OSB on the ceiling tomorrow.

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[Von Bickley]

Looking good...... Keep posting the pictures.

[Steve Kinnaird]

I started putting up the OSB today.
I had planned to start with the ceiling first.
But knowing the walls were a perfect 96 inches and the OSB being 95.75 inches, I realized that if I did the ceiling first, I would have to trim every wall panel. Not gonna happen :)
Walls will go up first and then the ceiling.

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[John Donofrio]

Coming along real nicely and looking great! Keep 'em coming

[Jack Jackson]

Good luck with the ceiling... I've been putting up 7/16 OSB on my 10 ft ceiling these last few days. Kinda slow going by myself but not horrible.

[Steve Kinnaird]

I removed the 12x12 vent and got the 12,000 BTU A/C unit installed today.
Couldn't wait for my friend to get a 2 ton unit to install.
Plugged it into a heavy duty extension cord just to test it. Oh, that felt so nice.
319709
Now I can finish the insulation on that wall.

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[Steve Kinnaird]

With the A/C installed, I have switch gears to getting the Sub-Panel powered up.
Might as well have the A/C on to finish the walls and ceiling install :D

Found where the underground water line from the well and the buried electrical conduit will cross paths. Will go 12" below the water line for a total depth of 24"
Opened up the Electrical Panel in the garage to find it full of the wasps that build mud nests. Cleaned that out and installed the 2" opening in the box and drilled for the outside entry port.
Plan on digging the ditch tomorrow if weather permits.

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[Steve Kinnaird]

Let there be power :)
My son, my dog & I dug the 50 ft long x 2 ft deep trench for the power feed from the garage to the workshop.
Tomorrow we will get the Sub-Panel wired and the wire in the 100 amp breaker in the garage main panel.

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[Kent Adams]

I removed the 12x12 vent and got the 12,000 BTU A/C unit installed today.
Couldn't wait for my friend to get a 2 ton unit to install.
Plugged it into a heavy duty extension cord just to test it. Oh, that felt so nice.
319709
Now I can finish the insulation on that wall.

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Steve, with the amount of insulation your putting in there, you're going to find that you don't need a 2 ton unit.

[Steve Kinnaird]

I agree.
It was going to be free and installed for free. But he has not come across one that he felt was in good enough condition to put in.
That is why I bought the 12,000 to mount in the wall.
Finishing up the power feed from the garage today, so I will have a nice cool shop to work in as I finish the walls and ceiling.
Then comes the fun of moving all the tools from the garage to the shop.

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[Randy Blackstock]

Steve, I have a 12'x 24' custom built shop, I added another 3' x 5' closet on the outside to house the DC and piped into the shop 4" pipe, I also located the air compressor on the outer backside of the shop under a Lean-To anything you can do to make more room would help, you do how ever have 5 more feet that I do.

[Steve Kinnaird]

Already looking at a make shift room behind the shop to house the DC and the air compressor.

[Randy Blackstock]

Here are some photos of my 12' x 24' shop layout, you might find helpful, please note that my Air Compressor and DC are both located outside of my shop.

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[Randy Blackstock]

Here is the layout, it may be helpful. 320261320262

[Steve Kinnaird]

OK, back to it.
Got all of the lower wall boards installed and have started on the upper wall boards.
Sorry about the cloudy images. My cell camera has a broken lens :(

Not looking forward to putting the OSB on the ceiling :eek:

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[Kent Adams]

Steve, rent a drywall lift or buy one off craigslist and resell it when you're done. It'll make installing those ceiling boards much easier.

[Kent Adams]

Randy, I have the same size shop. I really like your layout. Can you post some pictures of your outside closet? I thought about doing that for my DC. Start a new thread and give us a shop tour. :)

[Mike Heidrick]

Looking great Steve.

[Jebediah Eckert]

Looks good. I enjoy following the thread, thanks for posting. I am also a fan of the captions you put on the pictures! Wow on the trench, hand dug in August, in Florida, ugh

[Steve Kinnaird]

Saw a drywall lift on CraigsList for $100, hope to pick it up this week. Seller hasn't responded yet.

I got the West Wall done today. Only had a few hours. Hope to get a lot done this week in the evenings.

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[David Nelson1]

Look at all them plugs LOL you did wire em first right?? :D

[Steve Kinnaird]

Look at all them plugs LOL you did wire em first right?? :D

Yes, no lack of available outlets :)
When cutting the opening in the OSB, my son wished I had waited and ran conduit and boxes on the surface.

[David Nelson1]

Actually that is what I did do.

[Frank Pratt]

A little late to be suggesting it now, but I used a Roto-Zip to cut out my outlets. My walls are 13/16 OSB so it was a little slow, but it cut out the boxes perfectly.

[Steve Kinnaird]

I have plenty more to cut out :)
The drill a hole and use the lig saw is working fine.
I have a template I use because they are all at the same height.

[Jack Jackson]

Just curious... are you noticing a significant "off-gassing", for lack of a better term, from that OSB? I'm doing the inside of my shop right now also and it's so bad I literally can't be in there without a respirator on or my nose starts burning. In there working for very long and even my clothes have the smell in them when I go back in the house. I was planning on painting but now I'm thinking I may need to seal it all with something better than just paint. You noticing anything like that?

[Steve Kinnaird]

Just curious... are you noticing a significant "off-gassing", for lack of a better term, from that OSB? I'm doing the inside of my shop right now also and it's so bad I literally can't be in there without a respirator on or my nose starts burning. In there working for very long and even my clothes have the smell in them when I go back in the house. I was planning on painting but now I'm thinking I may need to seal it all with something better than just paint. You noticing anything like that?

Not getting anything like that.
OSB has been stacked in the workshop for about a month.
Been cutting out for outlets and switches this past week and nothing unusual. Just smells like saw dust.

[Jack Jackson]

Thinkin I must've gotten a really "fresh" batch. I transported it in my truck for the 20 mins it took to get home from Lowes and my truck interior even smelled foul for a few days. I'm just gonna let it air out for a while I guess.

I'm cutting out for outlets right now too.... the only downside to having lots of outlets? Having to cut out for each one....haha

[Steve Kinnaird]

Just a little more progress.
Fighting a cold :(

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[Von Bickley]

Looking GOOD.....

[Steve Kinnaird]

The walls are finally done!!!!!
And the ceiling has been started..... !!!!!!
Can't wait to start painting after the ceiling is up.

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[Jim Dwight]

I typically only have one outlet per sheet of OSB - outlets are about on 4 foot centers. You seem to be closer to 2 foot centers! It's nice to have plenty and the cost isn't very significant. Looking good. I'm back to working on my shop for the moment. My wife got fed up with the mess my work creates in the house due to my demolish of the woodstove chimney. I hope to get the walls up before she is back to wanting me to work on the kitchen.

[Von Bickley]

Get that ceiling done and everything painted, then on to some shop cabinets.

[Steve Kinnaird]

I typically only have one outlet per sheet of OSB - outlets are about on 4 foot centers. You seem to be closer to 2 foot centers! It's nice to have plenty and the cost isn't very significant. Looking good. I'm back to working on my shop for the moment. My wife got fed up with the mess my work creates in the house due to my demolish of the woodstove chimney. I hope to get the walls up before she is back to wanting me to work on the kitchen.

The reason for all the outlets is that they are not all the same.
Most are just a 110v 20amp group of 5 or 6 outlets on a single 20amp breaker with 12-2 wire.
Some are a 110v 20amp on a dedicated 20amp breaker with 10-2 wire. These are for the main tools. RAS, Lathe, Jointer, Router Table, etc.
Some are 220v 20amp outlets on dedicated breakers with 102 wire. These are for the bandsaw and the table saw at this time.

I should NOT have a shortage of outlets :)

[Steve Kinnaird]

Get that ceiling done and everything painted, then on to some shop cabinets.

Yes sir!
Getting closer every day.

[Keith Weber]

Just found this thread. As I read through the pages, my main worry was your thoughts on putting a 2-ton AC in there. Glad you reconsidered. A 2-Ton AC would have been way overkill, uncomfortable, and cause big fluctuations in temp and humidity (things you don't want in a room full of wood and tools.)

I also have a narrow shop, albeit a bit longer than yours at (11' 5" x 48'). Definitely presents challenges. My sliding table saw, jointer, and SCMS station are all stationary and control the center section because of the length they need. Everything else loads up the walls, keeping the center aisle clear. Other real estate hungry tools like the bandsaw, planer, widebelt, shaper, and router table are all on wheels and can be pulled out to the center aisle when I need them and pushed back against the wall when not in use. It works, but I do wish I had a 24' wide shop. It wasn't an option for me, unfortunately so I make do with what I have.

[Steve Kinnaird]

Got the inclined portion of the ceiling done on both sides.
The flat center section is 7 ft edge to edge.
Hope to get that done by Sunday.

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[Steve Kinnaird]

Happy New Year everyone!!!!
Promised my self that I would get the workshop finished.
The last few days I have been getting the OSB on the ceiling.
My son came by today and helped with the last of it. Good thing, because I was running out of steam.
Hope to Start painting Wednesday afternoon.
Ceiling will be Ceiling White
Walls will be Hawaiian Pineapple (Soft but Bright Yellow)
I have already moved my Delta Contractor Table Saw and my Radial Arm Saw to the shop.
Everything else will be moved after the painting is done.
Feels GREAT to see things progressing again.
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[Bruce Page]

Looking good Steve!

[Steve Kinnaird]

Thanks..... can't resist the next line....
Feeling good Bruce ..... LOL

[Steve Kinnaird]

Picked up a Campbell Hausfeld Airless Paint Sprayer today.
It is a used unit. Got it for $75 and everything works.
Hope to get the ceiling painted Friday night and the walls over the weekend.

[Frank Pratt]

I used an airless sprayer to paint my 23' x 25' shop, ceiling & walls. Did it all in 1 long evening. 2 coats of latex with about 4 hours dry time between. You'll have no problem getting that done.

[Von Bickley]

Steve,
Glad to see that you are making progress. Ready to see you making saw-dust.

[Steve Kinnaird]

Steve,
Glad to see that you are making progress. Ready to see you making saw-dust.

Feels great to to back at it. Hated seeing the workshop just sitting there and NOT collecting dust, saw dust that is :)

[Steve Kinnaird]

Got the airless paint sprayer setup and started painting the ceiling today.
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But, just as I thought I was going to wrap it up, the sprayer quit.
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Shut it down. Hoping it just needs a rest ..... fingers crossed.

[Mike Heidrick]

Graco makes a great sprayer if you plan to replace it.

[Steve Kinnaird]

I agree, Graco sprayers are great. But I found the problem.
I let it rest for about 30 minutes and went back out to try and finish the ceiling.
Still wouldn't spray. Turned out that the pickup tube was only about an 1/8 of an inch below the surface of the paint in the paint pail.
I two pieces of 1/2 inch plywood under the pail and tried again.

Success!!!!
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Tomorrow I will be painting the walls yellow.

Feels so good to see things progressing again.

[Steve Kinnaird]

The painting is done !!!!!!!!
Next is building work benches, running the dust collection system and air lines.
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[Steve Kinnaird]

Hung the first 4ft LED light tonight!
Only 11 more to go :)
Used 4 threaded J hooks, threaded through a block of wood and had the block of wood extend 1" each side and the block of wood screwed to the ceiling. I will take some detailed PIC's on the next assembly.
Bought the 4 J hooks from Ace Hardware for $1.29 each. Found them online for 13 cents each. http://www.hardwareworld.com/ Only need 44 more, but ordered 100 for $13.00. I am sure I can find use for them eventually. There are shipping from Washington state to Florida via UPS, so next week I will be busy hanging the rest of the lights.
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[Von Bickley]

Time to start planning shop cabinets....... The fun begins.

[Steve Kinnaird]

Can't wait :)
Cabinets, Benches, Outfeed Table ....... and more.

I have friends asking me what I plan on building with such an extensive workshop. I always tell them, Bird Houses. I then get that deer in the headlights look. LOL

[Steve Kinnaird]

A few PIC's of the progress.......

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[Steve Kinnaird]

Do I need a toe kick under my built-in work benches?

[Jebediah Eckert]

I like one. I know because I did not put one on my outfeed table. Often I pull up a stool to it and wish I had one. Most all of my larger flat surfaces I seem to find the cleanest one and pull up a stool when needed. They are nice but certainly not needed if it is overly difficult to alter or design, or if you already have one installed. I manage just fine without one, but am reminded every time I sit at the outfeed table that I wish I did.

[Steve Kinnaird]

I like one. I know because I did not put one on my outfeed table. Often I pull up a stool to it and wish I had one. Most all of my larger flat surfaces I seem to find the cleanest one and pull up a stool when needed. They are nice but certainly not needed if it is overly difficult to alter or design, or if you already have one installed. I manage just fine without one, but am reminded every time I sit at the outfeed table that I wish I did.

Thanks for the reply.
I agree, better to have it than to not have it and wish I had.
I am just starting the bench builds for the shop and will be sure to have the toe kick.

[Chris Hachet]

Update ................

5 MORE DAYS !!!!!!
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Excellent. My only two cents are you seem to have a duplication of function. I would cut it to two work benches....one no wider than 24 inches so you can get at all sides of what you are working on, and one larger one as an assembly table and outfeed table. Don't know how you work, so take this with a grain of salt.

Good luck on the new Shop! Progress is always nice to see.

Chris

[Steve Kinnaird]

Excellent. My only two cents are you seem to have a duplication of function. I would cut it to two work benches....one no wider than 24 inches so you can get at all sides of what you are working on, and one larger one as an assembly table and outfeed table. Don't know how you work, so take this with a grain of salt.

Good luck on the new Shop! Progress is always nice to see.

Chris

The workbench that I am working on will be 8' long and 24" wide. It will have a RAS mounted level with it and then an additional 6' x 24" bench.
Both benches will be permanently attached.

________________RAS____________
/////////////////////////////////////////

[Jim Becker]

Build a recessed platform for your cabinets to act as the toe kick. Then you can just build rectangular boxes for the cabinets and not have to deal with cutting out the toe kick area...and it's FAR easier to level, too.

[Steve Kinnaird]

Build a recessed platform for your cabinets to act as the toe kick. Then you can just build rectangular boxes for the cabinets and not have to deal with cutting out the toe kick area...and it's FAR easier to level, too.


Thanks, I was close to that idea, but was building into the design.
It will be a basic workbench and I will slide cabinets or drawers in later.

[Steve Kinnaird]

Picked up enough lumber today to build a couple work benches and the out building to hold the dust collector, air compressor and generator.
It will be a 6ft x 4ft shed with 8ft walls.
Very simple 24" on center floor and walls. Picked up a 36" Pre-Hung Steel Door.
Will put PT 4x4's 6" above the ground and 2ft into the ground, secured with Quickcrete
PT 2x4 frame for the floor with 3/4" PT Plywood floor.
I will post PIC's as I progress.

[Von Bickley]

Looks like everything is moving along. I would really consider going 16" on center instead of 24". It wouldn't take much more lumber.

[Steve Kinnaird]

WHAT!!!! You want me to use 3 or 4 more 2x4's. Are you kidding me!!!!!!!

Just messing around......
The main workshop is 24 on center and it is plenty strong.
This shed will just be a housing for the DC, Compressor & Generator.
Won't see much traffic.