Plunge cut with a jig saw?

[David Ragan]

Anybody ever do this?

I read you stabilize it on the front of the base, and gently tilt it backward into the work.

What about the variables for the blade, like speed, and how aggresive the cut is (I have a Bosch)

there are special blades for this, right?

[Bradley Gray]

I've done this to cut out for outlets in 1/4" ply. Dig into your scrap pile and try it!

[dave nichols]

I've also done this, no special blade was needed. Did it on 4/4 lumber with no problem.

[Jim Andrew]

I have done the plunge cut with a jigsaw, but find it easier to just drill a hole big enough to allow your blade through the work.

[Mike Ontko]

I have done the plunge cut with a jigsaw, but find it easier to just drill a hole big enough to allow your blade through the work.

Ditto! I have a Bosch saw as well. It certainly can be done, but it's not a very precise or clean method. There are certain blades that are intended for plunge cuts.

[Randy Red Bemont]

I've done it and sometimes it will hop around like a rabbit on hot coals. Practice, practice and practice on scrap. It is doable. I prefer to drill a started hole.

Red

[James Tibbetts]

I have done it in paneling for outlets. But now that I am older and theoretically wiser, why would you bother? Just drill the pilot hole. No risk to you, the blade or the material. And faster, cheaper and safer than replacing any of the three if you make a mistake.

[Steve Jenkins]

I don't know if they still do it and don't reccomend it but when Bosch first came out with their jigsaw one demo was holding it about a foot above a piece of 3/4 pine and stabbing it straight down through in one motion then cutting. I use the tilt method occasionally but usually drill a starter hole first.

[Jim Finn]

I've done it and sometimes it will hop around like a rabbit on hot coals. Practice, practice and practice on scrap. It is doable. I prefer to drill a started hole.

Red

This has been my experiance also.

[glenn bradley]

Back when the Bosch 159X units first came out, the rep was demonstrating them by repeatedly plunging into 4/4 hardwood. High speed, controlled plunge rate. The task is well within reach. Some practice will yeild more predictable results.

[Warren Wilson]

I've used the plunge cut method when a pilot hole would not serve: cutting the hatch covers and cockpit out of a cedar-strip kayak deck. Nerve-wracking when you've put so many hours into it, and every scratch is going to be front and center. I was apprehensive enough I put it off for several days, getting the nerve up.

Coincidentally, I have a Bosch -- which has great torque at a very slow speed. I used masking tape to help with the tear-out and to protect against some intial errant strokes and ran the saw at a snail's pace to keep it under control as I angled it into the deck, rubbing the wood more than cutting it at first.

It worked perfectly in the end -- but it was cedar.

[Jerry Miner]

I've done this a million (or so ) times installing cabinets and cutting out for plumbing, electrical, etc.

I use a standard blade (Bosch T101B) and cut in the waste area---cutting up to the layout line after the plunge. I find I get less "hopping" if I inch the saw forward a little as I plunge.

Nowadays I use a Roto-zip, with a "saber-cut" bit. Better way to do it, I think.

[Bill Orbine]

I've done plunge cutting before. It does have it's risk of hopping and I avoid plunging if the risks are too great. Especially where marring the woodwork is unacceptable. It's also worth noting that the jig saw should be set without "orbital" action to reduce the risk of hopping.

[roger wiegand]

I've done it and don't recommend it-- more often than not chatter up the surface and/or bend a blade. Never had a case where a pilot hole wasn't possible, now I just take the time to go get the drill. .

[Lee Schierer]

It can be done, but it doesn't always yield a nice clean cut. You need to move forward slightly as you tip the saw. Once the tip of the blade breaks through the piece being cut it is best to stop and then just push the blade through the opening before continuing the cut. If you are too aggressive the blade can hit the back end of the cut and bend your blade.

[Rick Potter]

I was at a demonstration where they did what Steve was talking about. They jammed a running Bosch straight down hard on a 3/4" board and it rammed a hole through. I bought my Bosch at that WW show, but I made sure it was a new one in a box, not the demo ;). Mine is the old style, needing a screwdriver to change bits. It has to be at least 20 years old, probably closer to 30, works great.

[John McClanahan]

I don't know if they still do it and don't reccomend it but when Bosch first came out with their jigsaw one demo was holding it about a foot above a piece of 3/4 pine and stabbing it straight down through in one motion then cutting.

I saw a demo of this at my local Lowes about 10 years ago.


John

[Tom M King]

Keep old blades especially for this purpose. You're going to bend some sometime doing this, so it might as well be an old one.

[David Ragan]

OK.

I always have drilled a hole.

Probably will continue that way.

thanks for the feedback.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Bosch makes a blade for this operation. It has a funny looking tooth on back side at bottom.

[cody michael]

I would use one of these http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/oscillating-tools/oscillating-multifunction-power-tool-62279.html

there are alot better ones out there but that one is not much more then a few jigsaw blades, they make quick work of plunge cuts.