Stickley like table

[Jay Jolliffe]

I have to make a Stickley like console table out of quarter saw white oak. I would like to match the stain that Stickley used. Any ideas of what was used & how I could produce the same color or close to the same color...It's not the really dark finish......

[glenn bradley]

http://homesteadfinishingproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/mission_oak_rev1-2011.pdf

[John TenEyck]

The link Glenn posted is the method I've used and it works very well.

John

[Jay Jolliffe]

Thanks Glenn & John....I don't have spraying abilities for the dye so what would the best way to apply it.....

[John TenEyck]

Thanks Glenn & John....I don't have spraying abilities for the dye so what would the best way to apply it.....

If it's on oak I would sand to 320 grit, raise the grain with distilled water, knock off the whiskers with 400 grit sandpaper, and then apply the dye in water or 50/50 water/denatured alcohol with a sponge. I'm assuming Transtint dye; if you're using TransFast dye you can only dissolve that in water. Basically wipe it on with a dripping sponge, do a whole section, wring out the sponge, then wipe over it again to suck up any excess dye and feather out any lap marks. Let dry 24 hours before proceeding.

John

[Kent A Bathurst]

If it's on oak I would sand to 320 grit, raise the grain with distilled water, knock off the whiskers with 400 grit sandpaper, and then apply the dye in water or 50/50 water/denatured alcohol with a sponge. I'm assuming Transtint dye; if you're using TransFast dye you can only dissolve that in water. Basically wipe it on with a dripping sponge, do a whole section, wring out the sponge, then wipe over it again to suck up any excess dye and feather out any lap marks. Let dry 24 hours before proceeding.

John

Yeah, pretty much. sort of.......J10 and I do this dance on a fairly regular basis......;)

This is pretty much my home base - QSWO with a Stickley finish, based on Jewitt's instructions. I do it this way:

1. 2 coats 3/4# clear shellac sealer. I use flakes, you can use Zinsser Seal Coat also, mixed down from 2#.
2. Water-borne Transfast. Lose the transtint - seriously. Do not use Transtint. Period.
3. Flood on with a rag in one hand, and wipe dry with a rag in the other hand, following right behind. Rub hard with the dry rag, to smooth it out and remove excess.
4. You can re-flood anywhere that you feel the need, but get the excess off. You are not in a rush, but do not screw around, either.
5. Come back tomorrow, rub gently with white synthetic 3M pad.
6. 2 coats 3/4# clear shellac sealer.

Carry on...............

EDIT: Ooops - forgot - after each sealer step, very lightly scuff sand with 400g 3M 216u, or the Norton equivalent . You are not sanding, you are just skimming the surface with zero weight on your fingers.

[John TenEyck]

Sorry Kent, but Transtint is wonderful stuff. Soluble in both water and alcohol, it offers more flexibility than Transfast and, according to Jeff Jewitt, is more light fast. Why would you recommend against its use? It's a mystery to me. I've been using it for about 6 years now and have never seen a reason to look for something else. Water soluble dye, DNA soluble dye, shellac toners, waterborne topcoat toners, the stuff does it all. The only "problem" with Transtint is you can't apply shellac over it by wiping or brushing. That's not a problem with Jeff Jewitt's Stickley recipe since he recommends using Seal-A-Cell as the sealer after the dye. I usually spray shellac and rattle can shellac works just as well. So I don't get it - please explain.

John