Bandsaw blade help

[Jebediah Eckert]

Hello-

I picked up a very low use 2002 Laguna LT16HD, ceramic guide upgrade kit, and driftmaster fence off craigslist. I'm installing another 220v plug for it tomorrow and need help with blades.

I spent way way way too much time reading bandsaw blade threads. This only left me more confused. My old saw was a Grizzly 14" G0555 I had for years. I'm still confused, can somebody just please make it simple for me?

I would like to get a good Resaw blade. It would be mostly used for resawing 5/4 cherry, maple, and oak. Not for veneers but mostly for making 1/2" stock. I would also use it for ripping. I wouldn't mind trying to do a veneer or two but have no immediate plans.

The second blade I would like to get would be a thinner one for making curved cuts.

I know all about the Laguna Resaw king from the reading but am not willing to spend that much. I was thinking around a $100 or under for the Resaw and $50 or under for the thinner one for curves?

Any suggestions for brand, how wide a blade, and how many tpi would be great.

[Erik Loza]

The good news is that pretty much any blade is going to shine on that machine.

I would just get some simple skip-tooth blades from Lenox or Timberwolf and experiment with those. A 1.0", 0.75", and 0.50" is a good mix. Don't overthink it. Blades are just like running shoes. Everyone has their preference and there are any number of combinations that could work well. Just try a few and see.

Best of luck,

Erik

[Art Mann]

Erik is probably better informed than I am but I gave up on Timberwolf resaw blades a year ago because both a friend of mine and I bought defective ones at about the same time. I started looking around the woodworking forums and a lot of other people had problems too. They have probably gotten their quality control program back on track but I don't feel the need to find out. I now use a Woodslicer blade from Highland Woodworking in Atlanta and so far (2 months) I have been pleased. You may want a 1 inch or larger blade and I am not sure they sell those. I am giving serious consideration to the Laguna Resaw King and possibly other carbide blades because I want an even smoother cut.

[Erik Loza]

Interesting: Had never heard that about the Timberwolves. Was it bad welds or was there an actual defect in the blade itself? Just curious. I don't sell blades but do refer lots of customers to manufacturers, Timberwolf among them. I haven't heard any feedback on bad blades from them in recent memory but maybe that's just me.

Erik

[Evan Patton]

+1 on the Woodslicer. I have one on my 14" steel Jet and am very happy with it. I've resawed 12" maple with no issues.

[John TenEyck]

My two cents is to use Lennox bi-metal blades. They are not expensive, cut straight, and last a long time. I get mine from ToolCenter.com and their quality is excellent. FWIW, I've had two Timberwolf blades brake - and not at the welds, and the Woodslicer is useless if the kerf closes at all. In any case, the Lennox bi-metal blades will outlast either by several fold and don't cost a lot more, so they are cheaper in the long run.

John

[Jebediah Eckert]

They only have Woodslicer at 3/4". I just checked out the timberwolf blades, positive claw, alternate set, alternate set special etc etc. I don't know what any of that means. There are like 10 choices in the 1" category.

[Allan Speers]

+2. I used several WoodSlicers on my 14" + riser. They are VERY thin, so it feels like you have extra HP.

two downsides:

1: They wear out very, very fast.

2: You don't want to cut green wood with them, and even youngish (resinous) Pine cuts very poorly with one. A thicker kerf makes a better all-around blade, if you have the HP to push it and the frame to tension it.


Using a carbide blade on a 16" BS is really pushing it, though the Resaw King (if you ever want to spend the money) appears to be the thinnest carbide blade made. Also, the RSK puts a bit more teeth in the cut, than the Woodmaster CT, and in a non-carbide blade, so does the WoodSlicer, which makes the WoodSlicer sound like your best bet. - Just get two so you have a spare ready to go.

[Jebediah Eckert]

Maybe I'm not understanding it all but I think my saw should be able to handle a 1" blade? I think (from reading) it should do a better job then a 3/4" for resawing and the woodslicer seems to only be available in 3/4".

[glenn bradley]

Interesting: Had never heard that about the Timberwolves. Was it bad welds or was there an actual defect in the blade itself? Just curious. I don't sell blades but do refer lots of customers to manufacturers, Timberwolf among them. I haven't heard any feedback on bad blades from them in recent memory but maybe that's just me.

Erik

I was one who got a couple of bad blades during that snafu several years ago. The blades were promptly replaced and I assume someone's nephew got taken off the welder and handed a broom or given something else to do. This problem has not repeated and I buy a few blades a year; usually firing the buy three get one free deals.

[Allan Speers]

Maybe I'm not understanding it all but I think my saw should be able to handle a 1" blade? I think (from reading) it should do a better job then a 3/4" for resawing and the woodslicer seems to only be available in 3/4".


I would ask Laguna what they think. - Then hope for corroboration from some actual owners of the same saw.

[Phil Thien]

There have been a few threads about Timberwolf blade issues. The ones I got several years ago were welded poorly.

I'd deal with Woodcraftbands.com or Iturra, both seem to do a pretty nice job.

[Jebediah Eckert]

Thanks, I will check them out.

Laguna says up to a 1 1/4" blade on that model saw.

[Matthew Hills]

When I got the MM16 last year, I picked up a variety of blades from spectrumsupply.com:
- diemaster ( 1/2" x .025 x 6/10 VARI-Tooth) <-- blade I normally leave on the saw
- diemaster (1/4" x .025 x 10/14 VARI-Tooth)
- woodmaster CT (1" x 0.035 x 2T)

They're all reasonably good blades.
Might get a coarser 1/2" next time. (will probably try supercut gold blades, which I'd started to use with my old PM 14" saw)

Matt

[John K Jordan]

I like the Lennox bi-metal blades too, for my 18" Rikon and 14" Delta with riser. I especially like the fact the local welding supply company keeps all Lennox blades in bulk and can usually make up any length by the time I drive there to pick them up.

Perhaps someone in your area also offers this service.

[Art Mann]

Interesting: Had never heard that about the Timberwolves. Was it bad welds or was there an actual defect in the blade itself? Just curious. I don't sell blades but do refer lots of customers to manufacturers, Timberwolf among them. I haven't heard any feedback on bad blades from them in recent memory but maybe that's just me.

Erik

There were two issues that were reported in various places, one of which I personally experienced and the other was experienced by a friend. What I saw was a bad weld that wasn't straight and wouldn't allow the blade to track correctly. I used it anyway for a little while (like a dummy) and the weld fractured and chewed up some plastic dust control parts in my old band saw. Fortunately, the saw worked anyway afterwards although the lower wheel housing now fills rapidly with sawdust. The problem my friend had was cracks or fractures in the gullets many of the teeth on a new blade. I saw it myself and it wasn't subtle. He sent it back and received a new blade as a warranty replacement. This second blade wouldn't track properly just like the one I had. I saw these same things reported on various web sources over a period of several weeks as other people started abandoning Timber wolf. Then, as quickly as the problem showed up, it apparently disappeared. My speculation is that Timberwolf imported some bad blade material and their weld process went out of control for a while. As I already mentioned, they probably have it figured out now and aren't shipping defective blades. In the position you are in, you would probably have heard about it otherwise. However, I now have another supplier and have no reason to go back to them. If I change blades again, it will probably be carbide from somebody or other.

[Allan Speers]

Another very interesting blade is the Laguna Proforce.

It's not carbide, so easier to bend on a 16" wheel, but it's tempered silicon steel, so probably very long lasting. 3 TPI, so not terrible as a general purpose blade.

Has anyone here used this blade?

[Michelle Rich]

just because your bandsaw can handle a 1 inch blade does not mean it is better to do so. A 3/4 might just run fine and do what you want in resawing...i run a 3/4 at correct tension and it does very well. The highland hardware blades are great for a reasonable price as are the blades from Infinity.

[Jebediah Eckert]

Thanks. I will check out the additional suggestions.

Michelle, thanks, I don't know either way on width. I used a 3/4" on my Grizzly 14" and it cut way straighter then the 1/2" I had on it before. It seemed from my reading on here the wider blade should cut truer and straighter. That's all I was going by.

[Jebediah Eckert]

When I got the MM16 last year, I picked up a variety of blades from spectrumsupply.com:
- diemaster ( 1/2" x .025 x 6/10 VARI-Tooth) <-- blade I normally leave on the saw
- diemaster (1/4" x .025 x 10/14 VARI-Tooth)
- woodmaster CT (1" x 0.035 x 2T)

They're all reasonably good blades.
Might get a coarser 1/2" next time. (will probably try supercut gold blades, which I'd started to use with my old PM 14" saw)

Matt

Thanks Matt, that's what I was looking for "idiot proof!"

I will check them out tomorrow.

[Erik Loza]

...I assume someone's nephew got taken off the welder and handed a broom or given something else to do...


...The ones I got several years ago were welded poorly...


....What I saw was a bad weld that wasn't straight and wouldn't allow the blade to track correctly...The problem my friend had was cracks or fractures in the gullets many of the teeth on a new blade....

From personal experience, I can tell you that no vendor appears to be imnune to shipping out blades with bad wleds from time to time. NO vendor. The metallurgy-thing is a new one to me. I've seen plenty of blades with bad welds but never a "bad blade". Personally, I would base my decision on how the vendor took care of you after bringing it to their attention. Just how I would handle it.


Maybe I'm not understanding it all but I think my saw should be able to handle a 1" blade? I think (from reading) it should do a better job then a 3/4" for resawing and the woodslicer seems to only be available in 3/4".

Your saw will probably handle a 1.25" blade but on a 400mm machine, 1.0" seems to be the magic size for resawing. You do seem to get to a point of diminishing returns on a machine of that size. Like putting oversize tires on a 4X4 truck. Hope this helps,

Erik

[Jebediah Eckert]

Thanks Erik, I know from SMc you know your bandsaw saws. 1" it is then, that seemed to be the consensus for this saw in past threads. That is also what they use in the Laguna videos, of course it's a 1" Resaw king.

[Susumu Mori]

Hi all,

I usually hear "get the widest possible your saw can handle" for resaw, but I recently came upon a website recommending 3/4-inch to reduce friction heating for some burn-prone woods like maple.

Especially for thin-kerf, small-set blades, I wonder the wider is not always the better. My 1-inch ResawKing certainly generates heats, which doesn't burn the wood but I see brown sawdusts, scorching smell, and excessive tar building around the carbide.

I love the thin kerf but heating seems a real issue. I wonder what are your experiences.

[Phil Thien]

From personal experience, I can tell you that no vendor appears to be imnune to shipping out blades with bad wleds from time to time. NO vendor. The metallurgy-thing is a new one to me. I've seen plenty of blades with bad welds but never a "bad blade". Personally, I would base my decision on how the vendor took care of you after bringing it to their attention. Just how I would handle it.


I'm not sure I've ever heard of anyone getting a bad weld from Iturra. Louis welds every single blade himself, and the guy knows what he is doing. I've never heard of the guys from Woodcraftbands.com sending blades with a bad weld, either. The Woodcraftbands.com guys and Iturra are both very experienced guys doing their own welds.

I'd rather deal with an outfit that puts all their effort into getting it right the first time over one that does a great job replacing stuff. This is especially true for users of a new saw, because you just can't have multiple variables (is it the saw, or the blade) when you're getting familiar with the thing.

[Evan Patton]

Running a wider blade for resawing is intuitive, but if the frame of your saw is not strong enough to properly tension a wider blade you'll end up with worse results with a thicker blade. I've been very happy with my Woodslicer and have run probably 300 linear feet through it and it's cutting great. I'm not sure what "short life" means on the Woodslicer, but will give the Lenox blades a try after I've worn out the 2 Woodslicers I bought when I got the saw last year.

[Jebediah Eckert]

Best I can tell the LT16Hd should be able to tension a 1" blade. At least it should for what those things cost new.

[Evan Patton]

Best I can tell the LT16Hd should be able to tension a 1" blade. At least it should for what those things cost new.
Just checked out Laguna's site. Really nice saw! Congrats! A 1" blade should be no problem.

[Art Mann]

After I abandoned Timberwolf, I talked at length with a guy from Highland Woodworking about their Woodslicer blades. I had been using a 3/4 inch blade. He recommended I use their 1/2 inch 3 tpi blade instead. He had both 1/2 and 3/4 for sale and had no financial reason offer that recommendation. I took his advice and I got visibly superior results compared to the 3/4 inch Timberwolf with no loss in performance. I do think that wider blades are better, but only in certain circumstances. If I were fitting the original poster's saw, I might try a 3/4 inch blade first to see how it works.

[Reinis Kanders]

I got some die master blades for my 14" Jet from Toolcenter (Cyber woodworking) recently and they had nice welds. I previously had bought some blades from Woodcraft, and somewhere else and pretty much all of them had crummy welds. Some even had bumps in the back.

[Allan Speers]

After I abandoned Timberwolf, I talked at length with a guy from Highland Woodworking about their Woodslicer blades. I had been using a 3/4 inch blade. He recommended I use their 1/2 inch 3 tpi blade instead. He had both 1/2 and 3/4 for sale and had no financial reason offer that recommendation. I took his advice and I got visibly superior results compared to the 3/4 inch Timberwolf with no loss in performance. I do think that wider blades are better, but only in certain circumstances. If I were fitting the original poster's saw, I might try a 3/4 inch blade first to see how it works.

Did that guy give you a specific reason for his recommendation?

It's interesting. On another forum, two different well-respected members say they resaw with 1/2" / 3 TPI blades, on 20" and 24" saws! These guys are both very experienced, and claim to get completely acceptable results, plus they don't have to change blades all the time for other cuts.

Seems absolutely nuts to me, but there it is. I sure wish I understood this.

[Anthony Whitesell]

I think (from reading) it should do a better job then a 3/4" for resawing and the woodslicer seems to only be available in 3/4".

What is your thinking that a 1" blade will resaw better than a 3/4", given the same TPI?

[John TenEyck]

What's hard to understand? A wider blade does not make a saw cut straighter. All a wider blade does is allow you to saw faster because the beam strength is higher. That assumes of course that the saw can adequately tension that wider blade and the teeth can clear the swarf from the cut. I use a 1/2" 4 tpi Diemaster 2 blade on my Delta 14" with riser block and get beautifully straight cuts in 10"+ stock. I've even used a 1/4" 6 tpi blade in a pinch and still gotten nice straight cuts, at slower speed.

John

[John Lanciani]

Seems absolutely nuts to me, but there it is. I sure wish I understood this.

Read less and cut more and it will all come into focus. Paralysis by analysis comes to mind...

[Jebediah Eckert]

What is your thinking that a 1" blade will resaw better than a 3/4", given the same TPI?

I really don't have any thinking other then what I have read and watched on YouTube. Most all were using 1" blades (on my model saw) and that is what Laguna recommends for the saw I have. I guess my thought would be it would get less "twist" while cutting? More rigid maybe? My grizzly with my smallest blade certainly didn't cut as straight for me as the 3/4" both being tensioned as properly as I know how.

I know now I could cut more and read less for sure, definitely good advise. Maybe just for now two good blades, Resaw and curve, and take it from there?

[Erik Loza]

Read less and cut more and it will all come into focus...

This ^^^^....

Just buy a few blades and see how they perform. That's all that needs to happen.

Erik

[Jebediah Eckert]

This ^^^^....

Just buy a few blades and see how they perform. That's all that needs to happen.

Erik

Totally agree, thanks all. I guess I was just trying to at least narrow it down based on others trial and error on the same or similar saw. Or at least clarify the different tooth configurations, there are sooooo many choices. Skip tooth, raker, positive claw, alternate set, tpi etc. I know what tpi means and that's about it.

I will just make my best guess and deal with it.

[Anthony Whitesell]

Don't forget, as the blade gets wider it gets thicker (there are a few that overlap between widths), which also means the kerf gets wider. I have a G0513X2 and have never run a 1" blade though it can, and I have resawed many boards. Yes, the thinner blades are prone to twist and cup in the cut. My suggestion is to buy a variety and see which you like best. I think it is largely a matter of personal technique and preference. Being the Grizzly G0513X2 is a less usual length, finding places that sell by the inch near me or online has been troublesome. I started with Timberwolf, they were OK. I tried a Lenox, thought it a bit better. I have a 1/2" and 3/4" woodslicers and a woodturner blade on the way, as well as a few from buyfromawoodworker.com. I will give each a spin and see how they do.