Setting A Toliet

[Larry Frank]

I have not set a toilet in a few years. My old practice is the following...


Check floor flange and replace or fix as needed.
New corrosion resistant bolts
Use a wax ring with plastic center part
Use a bead of plumbers putty on bottom of toilet to keep it from rocking
Use someone to watch and get toilet down accurately


I will also replace the shut off valve with best I can get and new braided hose.


OK...what have I forgotten or need to do differently....there may be some newer way or things I am not aware of...Thanks

[julian abram]

Your procedure looks good. Instead of using a beeswax ring you might check out the newer neoprene rings, not as messy and seems to seal as well as beeswax. Of course the beeswax ring has been used successfully for decades but it can get messed up if you attempt multiple stabs getting the toilet set properly. 2 cents

[Art Mann]

I don't think plumbers' putty is the correct material to prevent rocking. That stuff has no strength. If you bolt it down and it still rocks, then you may need to install one or more shims to stop the rocking between uneven surfaces. You might be able to fix it with a substantial amount of epoxy putty. It may be that the flange is sticking up too high for the toilet outlet to seat properly. I have seen that problem a time or two. In that case, you may need to imbed the flange a little further into the floor.

[Tom M King]

I like the screw on bolt caps, instead of the snap on ones-and heavier stainless washers than what comes with the bolts. They don't matter to start with, but the next time the toilet needs to come up, they go back on easier, and it eliminates the plastic washer under the bolt metal washer, which can cause a rocking toilet.

Yeah, plumbers putty won't do that.

[Phil Thien]

Hot melt glue makes a great toilet shim.

It releases with a little bit of alcohol sprayed on it.

Seat the toilet, snug it up, look for rocks, inject hot melt glue where necessary.

Wax rings work great, I'd skip the ones with the plastic horn. Plumber's putty is an alternative and how it was done BEFORE wax rings. You basically make a wax ring-size mound of plumber's putty. I'm just noting that for posterity's sake, just use the wax ring.

[Art Mann]

Now that is an interesting idea!

[Larry Frank]

I like using something around the edge of the toilet to prevent any rocking especially on ceramic tile floors as there are always a little irregularities. I was taught plumbers putty for this but will take into consideration the other suggestions....thanks.

Just curious Phil, why skip the wax ring with the plastic horn?

[Tom M King]

I don't use the ones with the plastic horn either. If the wax is not going to seal it all around, a funnel won't do any good. Just the wax leaves a bigger opening. When I build a house, or redo a bathroom in an old one, I epoxy stainless t-bolts (might have to make them) from underneath the floor. I don't mind plastic flanges if I do this. Never had a callback for anything.

[Phil Thien]

I like using something around the edge of the toilet to prevent any rocking especially on ceramic tile floors as there are always a little irregularities. I was taught plumbers putty for this but will take into consideration the other suggestions....thanks.

Just curious Phil, why skip the wax ring with the plastic horn?

I've had the best success w/ wax rings w/o the embedded plastic, but I cannot explain why. Maybe the plastic prevents the wax from smooshing around properly, I don't know.

I think Tom is probably correct, that if the wax doesn't seal, the plastic isn't going to save you, and the plastic may prevent the wax from sealing.

[Jason Roehl]

I use a bit of the old wax ring to help hold the flange bolts in place while I set the toilet. I also put the wax ring on the flange, not on the toilet. Straight wax ring here, no plastic funnel--causes more problems than it solves, IMHO.

[Brad Adams]

I use the wax rings with a flange. They solve more problems than they create. Been a plumber for twenty years using them.

[Von Bickley]

I use steps 1 thru 3. Never used steps 4 or 5.

[Stan Calow]

Not a pro -just a homeowner. I don't do step 4 either. Had a toilet that leaked for several years but did not know it because of seal around the bottom. Floor rotted out before I found out.

[Phil Thien]

I googled "wax wing with or without flange" and found this:

http://blog.allareaplumbing.net/blog/wax-rings-what-to-avoid



The third problem, and the most common problem we see, has to do with the wax seal itself. While the wax rings with the plastic "horn" seem to make a lot of sense and appear safer, they actually cause more problems than they solve. The plastic horn disrupts the water in exactly the same way that the shelf was with the bad toilet flange. When the toilet is flushed and the water goes rushing through the wax seal and flange, it hits the plastic horn and causing a lot of excessive splashing around the wax. In due time, it will eventually cause a leak. There is no need for the plastic horn, ever. A basic wax ring is all you will ever need (if you have a good flange).

Since the homeowner in this did not have an ideal flange, we used neoprene toilet rings instead of wax. This will ensure that the wax is not washed away and caused to leak by the excessive splashing. Yes, it is true, time will have to tell on this one, but in the meantime, I will sleep very well.


I've been tempted to try neoprene rings, just haven't had a chance.

[Larry Edgerton]

I would agree with everything but the braided hose. You are counting on rubber instead of copper, but mostly for me I do not want to look at one of those tacky looking things. I'll take solid supply lines Alex.

A lot of people have trouble installing solid supplys, and a lot of people buy them in box stores. Don't! Go to a real plumbing supply and buy from a company like Wolverine Brass. The cheap supplies are junk, out of round and with less copper content are more prone to kinking. Same with the stops, buy a good one from a supply house, not some junk from China designed to a pricepoint. Again, I use Wolverine Brass.

[Jason Roehl]

One more thing. I NEVER caulk the base of the toilet where it meets the floor. If there's a leak, you'll never know it until the floor under the toilet is gone. Some people say to leave a gap in the caulk at the back of the toilet, but this won't necessarily work, either. If the floor is even slightly sloped to the front of the toilet, the leak won't flow out the back, or even if the floor is perfectly level, water has a high surface tension, so it can make a pretty good puddle before it gets to the back of the toilet.

[Larry Edgerton]

Good point Jason. I have seen exactly what you are describing. Better to know right away.

[Brad Adams]

It is actually code to seal the toilet to the finished floor.

[Myk Rian]

Just curious Phil, why skip the wax ring with the plastic horn?
We had this discussion a few months ago. The reason is a stiff t**d gets caught in it.

[Phil Thien]

It is actually code to seal the toilet to the finished floor.

I only see this done in commercial, very little in residential.

[Jason Roehl]

It is actually code to seal the toilet to the finished floor.

Which code? Citation?

Building codes are published by independent organizations, and local authorities adopt them at varying intervals, with or without modification.

I've only seen a handful of toilets caulked to the finished floor over the years, and I don't think it was ever in new construction, even commercial (and as a painter, I'm often one of the last on a project, hauling tools out the door as the occupants move in).

[Brad Adams]

Uniform Plumbing Code: Fixtures 407.2 "Where a fixture comes in contact with the wall or floor, the joint between the fixture and the wall or floor shall be made water tight."

As I said before I have been a plumber for over twenty years, most of them being licensed as a master plumber. Any code you look at will have the same provision. Most localities recognize the uniform plumbing code.

[Larry Frank]

Thank you everyone....I appreciate the help. In this case I am going with the plumber and will seal to the floor. This will also help level and keep from rocking. The ceiling is open below and any leaks will easily be found.

[Phil Thien]

Thank you everyone....I appreciate the help. In this case I am going with the plumber and will seal to the floor. This will also help level and keep from rocking. The ceiling is open below and any leaks will easily be found.

Go use google to find images for "caulking toilet at floor." It doesn't look great when first done, and tends to go downhill from there, IMHO.

But to each, his own.

[Larry Edgerton]

Uniform Plumbing Code: Fixtures 407.2 "Where a fixture comes in contact with the wall or floor, the joint between the fixture and the wall or floor shall be made water tight."

As I said before I have been a plumber for over twenty years, most of them being licensed as a master plumber. Any code you look at will have the same provision. Most localities recognize the uniform plumbing code.

I have been a licenced builder for around thirty years, and have seen more stupid codes that I care to remember. Code proves nothing other than someone got it pushed through the bureaucratic process. In this case, its stupid.

[Jason Roehl]

Uniform Plumbing Code: Fixtures 407.2 "Where a fixture comes in contact with the wall or floor, the joint between the fixture and the wall or floor shall be made water tight."

As I said before I have been a plumber for over twenty years, most of them being licensed as a master plumber. Any code you look at will have the same provision. Most localities recognize the uniform plumbing code.

One could argue that the wax ring is accomplishing just that.

Codes tend to go after the worst cases not already addressed by code. So, each new provision handles cases that have a progressively lower probability of causing a problem, but the code-writing organizations have to justify their existence, so they keep publishing new codes. The laws of diminishing returns and unintended consequences thus abound.

[Brad Adams]

As much as you guys don't like it, it does serve a purpose. Sanitation. I have pulled up hundreds of toilets, its usually pretty nasty under them. Especially if there is someone in the house who doesn't have a good aim, if you know what I mean. I know what you mean about it looking bad if someone slops the caulk all over, seen plenty of that.