Routering inside corner

[Rick Johnston]

For a 3/4" thick frame edge with an ogee bit how do I deal with the pilot bearing and the stand off at the corner? I've not tried it yet but thinking it out away from the workshop I assume there is material not removed right inside the corner.

[Jamie Buxton]

Yes, there is material left in the corner. You can just leave it there. Many folks do that, but it looks awful to me. Or you can handcarve the material out of there with chisels and knives. It is quite a challenge to do. Or you can not use a complicated profile; handcarving a simple roundover or bevel is a lot easier than an ogee.

[Charles Taylor]

The frame is already assembled? Then you're left with Jamie's options for dealing with inside corners. If you can profile the edges before joining the pieces, you can avoid the inside corner issues.

[Steve Baumgartner]

You will get something like this:

314552

[Robert LaPlaca]

I carve the inside corners, only way to make it look right.. If the frame is already assembled, otherwise one could also miter the profile, if the frame is not already assembled..

[Jim Dwight]

I make the frame with a cope and stick bit so I don't have the problem.

[Peter Quinn]

For a profile with curves you either do cope and stick or Jack miter it pre assembly. Post assembly.....you cut the frame apart and either cope and stick or Jack miter, replacing the now too short rails as necessary.

[Max Neu]

or you could trim it out, instead of routering it, like a beaded face frame for inset doors.

[peter gagliardi]

+3 on what Jamie said.
Not all that hard if it's only a couple.

When I do beaded face frames, the bead is integral to the face frame- molded right on. In that case, like Peter says, it's jack miter time , making sure you allow for the bead and quirk width on your shoulder to shoulder lengths for rails.

[Rick Johnston]

Tks to all

[pat warner]

Or stop the cut before getting to the corner, avoiding the radiiused profile.