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Brent Perkinson
08-11-2005, 9:12 PM
Can somebody give me a recommendation on what to use to keep the acrylic above the table for vector cutting other than the over priced stands on laser bits?

Thanks for any help

Hale Reider
08-11-2005, 11:02 PM
My vector table did not ship for over a month when I got my laser. I set everything up on some spent pistol cartridges, brass shellcasings. I used 45 auto, which are a good length, but you could use 9mm or 40 cal. The 45s are fatter and not so prone to fall over. You can also buy these new without primers. Don't, of course, use live ammo.

I cut a lot of acrylic with these. They are all the same length and allow good air flow. I had some 24 X 36 inch sheets in there and cut them up.

Hale

Shaddy Dedmore
08-11-2005, 11:12 PM
hmmm, I wonder if you could cut a bajillion holes in a large acrylic sheet and poke the shells through that and that'd be your removable grid without having to stack them each time.

Some here use thin strips of acrylic to put the sheets on I think. You might do a search on this forum and see what comes up. Airflow through the cut is important to get rid of waste and cool to reduce remelt. I use the grid that I got from Epilog... expensive, but I use it a lot.

Shaddy

George M. Perzel
08-12-2005, 8:21 AM
Hi Brent;
Extremely overpriced is more than accurate when it comes to describing the cutting tables available from all laser manufacturers. Search this forum using "tables" and you'll get a ton of suggestions. Some folks use coins, washers, large hex nuts. brads driven through a piece of plywood, household vent grilles, screening, etc.
My table is made from a $20 aluminum 1/2" grid material which I got from a local heating equipment company. It is set in an frame made from aluminum angle all pop riveted together. Total cost- about $40.
For small, light items I use a 12" x12" grid made from 4 pieces of acrylic, each 12" long and 1.5" wide with the top edge laser cut like a comb every 1/2" and 1/2" deep. Glue them to a 12x12 piece of ply and weave light copper or aluminum wire between the teeth to form a 1/2" grid pattern. Can also use wood for the sides or thick alum (cut teeth slots with your bandsaw).
Quick one if you have a air brad nailer is to drive 1.5" brads through a piece of 1/2" ply in any grid pattern you choose.
For cutting larger pieces of acrylic, you don't need a small grid pattern as material is self supporting providing you cut from inside out.
Good Luck
george

Brent Perkinson
08-12-2005, 1:56 PM
Thanks so much for the replies I am going to ponder it this weekend and see what I can come up with. I have more than enough great ideas now. Thanks again.

J Porter
08-13-2005, 1:28 AM
Recently when my grid was really dirty (and I got some good help from here cleaning it) I decided to make a grid of my own.
I took a sheet of acrylic that covered my table and engraved lots of lines and numbers on it to use for approximate placement of items. Then I bought some good quality flat head screws (I also tried roofing nails but they weren't as consistent in length as the screws) and glued the screw heads to the acrylic. I used 2 inch screws but anything in that range should work fine. This gave me minimum contact with the material I'm working on with good support.
It was a quick and dirty project and it works great. I can add screws or remove them as necessary.
~Joe