This may not be my worst mistake but...........

[Brian Hale]

Can anybody top this one??

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[Kent A Bathurst]

Nope. You win.

Congratulations. Harold will get your award in the mail shortly. :p :p

The door and drawer reveals look perfect. The dovetails look perfect. What else could possibly go wrong?


EDIT: I have pretty much worn out my entire cuss word lexicon. Please PM me with the ones you found most helpful. Thanks.

[Bill Huber]

That is a good one........:)

I did make a cabinet with 3 drawers in it, I made the drawers to wide because I forgot to subtract the slides.

[Garth Almgren]

First picture: Looking good so far!
Second picture: Start chuckling uncontrollably.

Well done! Made my day for sure. :D

[Brian Hale]

There are several other "opportunities for improvement" in this build but they had solutions that only i'll know about.....

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[Kent A Bathurst]

Brian - I assume that is your dovetail saw on the back wall??

[Brian Hale]

Your right Kent.......

I think it needs a good sharpening as my joints are coming out a little loose. :rolleyes:

[Joe Jensen]

A Blum 170 degree concealed hinge might work. I've not used them but from the diagram it looks like it moves an inset door completely out of the opening when the door is open.

[Brian Hale]

Searching for solutions now be the support legs are limiting options to about 115 degrees of opening.......


maybe the trays will make some nice shop pullouts.

[Andrew Hughes]

Such a nice looking build,Cup hinges just don't fit the style to me. I can see the legs will be a problem even for offset knife hinges.What a shame.
What species of oak is it looks like English brown. Aj

[Brian Hale]

8/4 quarter sawn white oak with birch drawer parts and black walnut

[Jesse Busenitz]

Owwww! I've had too many days like that. Overall that looks totally stunning. I'm sure you'll come up with a brilliant solution yet. Are those doors just a solid slab?

[Brian Hale]

The doors are 4 pieces, book matched with the sap wood for a bit of accent

[Kent A Bathurst]

Searching for solutions now be the support legs are limiting options to about 115 degrees of opening.......


maybe the trays will make some nice shop pullouts.

A very wise man told me: When you are digging a hole for yourself, the first thing to do is to throw the shovel away.

I assume you have the same situation on the far right, right?

Make 4 new trays. Move on. Or, as the saying goes: FIDO -- [Forget] It, Drive On.

[Bruce Page]

I haven't made that exact mistake but I know the sinking feeling well.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Brian - would you mind breaking out the camera again?

I would love to see a photo framing the center section only - I am particularly looking to see the joinery from the drawer dividers coming in from the right and left to the posts/legs - wanna see how you pulled that rabbit out of the dust bin.

Thanks

Kent

[Brian Hale]

Fortunately the far right unit gets shelves so no problem there (yet!) The center is a pullout with walnut rods that run front to back so the wife can hang her tablecloths. The one I screwed up was for liquor bottles. SWMBO thinks making them narrower would be a waist of space.

I'll stare at it again tomorrow..... for now, I just filled the flask with Sailor Jerry, scuffed the tip on my Joss and we're heading to the pool hall to shoot some straight pool, or 9 ball


I looked at the wife and said, Don't you feel dumb for marrying such an idiot..... She smiled, said yes and walked away laughing

Thanks for letting me share this with you

Brian :)

[Brian Hale]

Kent, can I post that a little later for you? Heading out now

[Kent A Bathurst]

Dude - it took you weeks to screw this up.......I can wait for the documentation. :p

[Tom M King]

Mount the door to the bottom pullout-actually decreases operations needed to operate the system.

[Kevin Jenness]

Tom King's suggestion is a good one if the client is ok with it. Wide angle hinges are out because of the leg, but even without the opening angle limitation they would sag enough over time to foul the pullouts (trust me on this).

Are you confident in your door construction? I would expect significant movement with the seasons and potential cupping. To my eye the design calls for a veneered solution.

[Sam Murdoch]

We all have our stories - fortunately mine were pre internet share. I'm sure there'll be some new ones though so stand by for my humble pie fest.

Meanwhile I was going to suggest 2 drawer fronts rather than on door in front of the pullouts. Otherwise you will be making up new pullouts and padding out the side. There are some very smart adjustable pullout stanchions made for just this type of situation but more suited to production kitchen cabs not your custom beauties.

Easy enough to rip the hinge hole section out and fill in with a new piece without compromising the front of the door. Asking me how I know how to make that repair :rolleyes: :D.

[Paul McGaha]

Brian,

You've got a fix to do with one of them but I think you're going to finish with some really nice cabinets.

PHM

[Brian Hale]

Kent,

Actually, it took years to screw this up!! I started this build in late 2007. The pullouts and doors/drawer fronts were some of the first pieces I made. Then somehow a dinning table, desk with hutch and a tv cabinet needed to be built for the in-laws. A lot more happened but I won't bore you with the details.....

The cabinet is actually 3 separate units a bit over 4' each.

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They sit on a framework and the front legs are about a 1/2" away from the front of the cabinet.
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A view from the back between cabinets
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The legs and supports that run the length of the unit are QSWO and the pieces that run front to back are walnut which pass through the legs and will be secured with maple wedges for contrast

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Pullout for tablecloths

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Is that what you wanted to see?

Brian The town idiot :)

[Brian Hale]

Tom King's suggestion is a good one if the client is ok with it. Wide angle hinges are out because of the leg, but even without the opening angle limitation they would sag enough over time to foul the pullouts (trust me on this).

Are you confident in your door construction? I would expect significant movement with the seasons and potential cupping. To my eye the design calls for a veneered solution.

The doors were glued up in 2006 and did cup some but I handplaned them flat and they've been that way ever since. I considered battens but we'll see what happens to them.

[Brian Hale]

Mount the door to the bottom pullout-actually decreases operations needed to operate the system.

We considered this as the first option but the door is 27" tall and there is too much in the concealed drawer slides, it would rub the face frame if we're not careful....

[Malcolm Schweizer]

They make a hinge that swings out as it opens, leaving the door flush with the inner edge when opened. That should fix this.

[glenn bradley]

A very wise man told me: When you are digging a hole for yourself, the first thing to do is to throw the shovel away.

I assume you have the same situation on the far right, right?

Make 4 new trays. Move on. Or, as the saying goes: FIDO -- [Forget] It, Drive On.

+1. I learned long ago to "just make a new one" in certain situations. It saves time and gets the job done right. A spacer block on the hinge side, new trays and away you go.

Oh, and I loved the accentuated dovetails but missed the accentuated lock miters . . . love those too. I really enjoy joinery as a design element ;-)

[Brian Hale]

Thanks Glenn! I was looking for ways to add some shadow lines without going overboard, which I tend to do sometimes. The dovetails were pretty straightforward, mark, saw and chisel but those lock miters were done with a router and I almost gave up on them. Those bits are designed to cut with the grain and don't work well going into face grain. I had 3 pieces that more or less exploded half way through the cut. Scary! :eek:

[Kent A Bathurst]

Actually, it took years to screw this up!! I started this build in late 2007.



Then, we aren't in any huge rush to get this done over the Memorial Day weekend, eh? At least, not Mem Day 2015. :p THis mistake has been lurking in your shop for lo these many years, and just now showed up. I love it - you planted a landmine years ago, and just now stepped on it. :D




The cabinet is actually 3 separate units a bit over 4' each.

Is that what you wanted to see?



Yep - that answered it right there. :)

All looks very cool. I don't know the intricacies of build or intended use, but my free advice is to rework or rebuild those two drawers, with a rail or shim on the wall[s] to space the guides out to where they need to be. It just doesn't feel right to mickey-mouse your way around it by monkeying with the door.

You can retrofit that bit after the rest of the case is completed and installed, if you stumble across a sense of urgency somewhere.

And - I am with Glenn - I missed the exposed lock miters - that's way cool. Looking forward to photos of the finished piece - QSWO is my fave - looking forward to seeing the grain when done.

"Press on Regardless" - my motto in the shop. Exceept, I'm not man enough to share my mistakes.

[Alan Lightstone]

Oh, and I loved the accentuated dovetails but missed the accentuated lock miters . . . love those too. I really enjoy joinery as a design element ;-)

+1. Really love the accentuated lock miters.

I could go on and on about mistakes I've made. I'm looking at one on my desk extension as I type this. It's part of learning. Or brain farts, as I like to call them.

Nice cabinet. It will turn out beautiful once you sort out the drawers.

[Brian Hale]

I may have a solution!!

The wall where this unit goes has a window in the center of the wall however it's not quite dead center, rather it's a couple inches more to the left. The 2 units left and center are the same size but the right unit is about 2 3/4" wider. Can't really tell in the pictures and it isn't to obvious in person either. This means the drawers and door are wider than the leftmost unit and it looks like I can move those pullouts to the right unit. Rough measurements show i'll need to make the bottom pullout about 1/8" narrower to clear the hinge which is already installed, maybe 20 minutes with a handplane. So if I add some blocking for the slides to mount the slides to I may be OK. I'll put shelves in the left unit and i'll just have to do something with the screw holes from the slides.


As a side note....... The wife beat me 9 games to 5 shooting pool last night. While we often get close to even I'm almost always on the winning side. She's never beat me that bad. A fitting end to a bad day.

[scott vroom]

Have you looked at Blum 125 degree zero protrusion hinges? Part# 175H9190.22 for inset application.

[Brian Hale]

Good suggestion Scott! Unfortunately the legs won't allow that much opening angle. ;(

[Max Neu]

You could just take the easy way out and consider them fancy fixed shelves.:)

[Brian Hale]

Chisel trays ? ?

Kindling ? ?

Brian :rolleyes:


I feel like a termite choking on a splinter

[Bob Coates]

How about making the door swing right instead of left using some of the other hing suggestions. Not ideal, but shouldn't have interface from leg.

[Brian Hale]

How about making the door swing right instead of left using some of the other hing suggestions. Not ideal, but shouldn't have interface from leg.

Possible but since the hinges are already drilled i'd need to flip the door upside down which would throw of the matching I tried to do with the door on the right.

Hmmmmm

[scott vroom]

Good suggestion Scott! Unfortunately the legs won't allow that much opening angle. ;(

Brian, I have Blum 170 degree zero protrusion hinges....but notice in the pics that they attain zero protrusion + @ 90 degrees. Mine are FF hinges but if it were me I'd call Blum tech support Monday and ask if their 125 degree inset hinges will give zero protusion @ 90 degrees as well. Worth a shot and would solve your problem.

Blum USA phone 800 438-6788

[Brian Hale]

OK, All Better :)))

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[Bruce Page]

So, what was your solution?

[Brian Hale]

Sorry, should have mentioned it...... I moved the pullouts to the rightmost cabinet which is 2" wider then the left cabinet because the window in the wall where this unit goes isn't centered. I had to make the bottom pullout 1/8" narrower to clear the lower hinge but easy enough with a 4 1/2 handplane. A little trial and error but it worked out in the end. Most importantly the wife is happy. :)

[Pat Barry]

Been there - done that. Fortunately my cabinet allowed me to use hinges that opened far enough to provide clearance for the drawers. I don't like the way it works but I have not fixed it for the past 8 years. Always meant to remake the drawers - mine only needed to be 1/2 inch less wide.