joining angled legs for coffee table

[Mark Almeidus]

I want to make coffee table, and I have no idea how to joing the legs to be angled, not 45 degrees.
Here is sample of what i want to do.313884
I am working with hand tools only, so i want to know whats the best way to do it?

[Sean Hughto]

What part of it are you struggling with? The m&t stretcher or what? Forgive me, but it all seems obvious to me so I can't figure out what you need to know.

[matt stott]

Hi Mark,

I have made similar tables, and they way I do it is pretty simple. It looks like you have one angle to worry about in the above photo- the angle of the stretcher and the top mortise should be the same. Choose your angle and set your bevel gauge to match. I like to cut out a "test guide angle" on a piece of 2x4 or other scrap- I then clamp this test piece on top of my work piece and use it as a chisel or drill guide (see photo).

Easier to show than spell out!

Matt

step one: set angle and cut scrap to match:

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/mstott/woodworking/mortise-3_zps41210767.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/mstott/media/woodworking/mortise-3_zps41210767.jpg.html)

step 2: clamp scrap to real piece and chop away:

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/mstott/woodworking/mortise-4_zps57800370.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/mstott/media/woodworking/mortise-4_zps57800370.jpg.html)

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/mstott/woodworking/mortise-5_zpscb55130b.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/mstott/media/woodworking/mortise-5_zpscb55130b.jpg.html)


To cut the other end of the hole (and get the angle correct), flip the board over and transfer markings.

[Pat Barry]

Hidden mortice in the slab with stub tenons on the legs. To me its optional whether you want to go with a slanted mortice and straight tenon or a tenon that is slanted and a mortice that is square to the slab. For me, I would go with the square to the slab mortice and cut the tenon at an angle to fit

[Prashun Patel]

I'd do the stretcher/leg mortises as Matt's done.

If you want to cheat at this, you can rip the two legs in half then make your angled mortises in each half and reglue around the stretcher. Just sayin'.

Also, you don't really have to mortise the tops for the legs if you don't want; there's an argument to be made for a center stretcher at the top out of sight and then turn-buttons to connect the top to the base. The cross grain mortises in the top can be less than fun to chop out for the chisel-challenged like me.

[Pat Barry]

I'd do the stretcher/leg mortises as Matt's done.

If you want to cheat at this, you can rip the two legs in half then make your angled mortises in each half and reglue around the stretcher. Just sayin'..

Without cheating like this I don't think you could put it together with a M&T joint at the stretcher to legs and the angled M&T in the slab to leg joint unless you are OK with really loose joints

[Mark Almeidus]

From what i have read i think i am not ready for this to be honest. I am sure i can make a mess at some point :), and i am not experienced with mortises and tenons. I have done for example 3 leg stools, a small table with 4 small angled legs and few hand planes, but this is big.
Maybe its better for start to make a table with 45 angle legs. Here is what a plan to use.313909
Second from left is beach and i will cut it in half for the legs, and for the top i wil use the piece far right wich is walnut.
Question is: join them with m&t or with pegs.
When i feel ready for angled legs, i will know where to look next time :).

[Prashun Patel]

You can do straight legs if you prefer a slightly less challenge. That might look fine for you.

I would not (personally) do 45 degrees. Leg splay is deceptive. 5-7 degrees looks a lot steeper than you'd think. 45 deg might look too steep to (my) eye.

[Mark Stutz]

Assuming you have access to some inexpensive construction grade lumber, use it to practice and make a model. That way you can do your learning and practice on some inexpensive wood where a mistake won't matter. You might also make a practice piece with straight legs. Who knows, you might like the looks of that better.

[Mark Almeidus]

True that, few degrees can make a lot of change to the final look.
As Mark said tomorrow i will make some tests on scrappy wood and find the best way that suits me from the tips you posted.
btw: I seen prices of this types of tables and they can rich up to 1500 dolars. Why is that?

[Brian Holcombe]

Without cheating like this I don't think you could put it together with a M&T joint at the stretcher to legs and the angled M&T in the slab to leg joint unless you are OK with really loose joints

I believe it would have to assemble as such;

Loose pre-assembly of stretchers to uprights (leave tusk wedges out).
Assemble top onto base and as the top draws down flush it should pull the uprights in tight and seated on the stretcher.
Finally the wedges would be installed into the tusk tenons.

Or, use Prashun's approach of a hidden stretcher and battens under the top which will also work nicely.

[Brian Holcombe]

True that, few degrees can make a lot of change to the final look.
As Mark said tomorrow i will make some tests on scrappy wood and find the best way that suits me from the tips you posted.
btw: I seen prices of this types of tables and they can rich up to 1500 dolars. Why is that?

Make one and you will know. :p

Kidding aside, these are rarely as dead simple as they look, and the lumber often contributes heavily toward the price.

[Mark Almeidus]

If i make one I will be happy to sell for 200$ considering i got all this pieces for 11$ :p.
i came to an idea (not sure if anyone posted it here) to make both sides of the legs angled and paralel, each leg to have two tenons. That way i dont have to worry about the angle of the mortise (it will be 45 degrees)

313919
Here is a picture for better idea.

[Brian Holcombe]

Mark,

if that is the lumber you have at your disposal it may be interesting to see the top as a live edge, the legs 90 degrees to the base with the edges cut straight, then use #4 from the left as the stretcher, leaving the shape as is and simply cutting tenons into it.

it would be an interesting nod to timberframe done in the same manner, sometimes main beams in timberframe are left with their natural shapes rather than being cut flat.

[Mark Almeidus]

Some of this terms i have no clear idea what they mean, for example stretcher and what is #4?
Is this what u mean?

313962 90 degree legs and just cut normal tenons and mortises.
Ofcourse i am goint to use the top and legs as it is(no flattening)

[Sean Hughto]

A sketched a few things that may help:

313963

[Richard Verwoest]

If you got all those for 11 bucks, great score....

I would recommend making a mock up. Use some cardboard and make a template of each piece. You can also use blue tape to mock any possible cuts. Company's that sell large amounts of plywood usually have large(4x8) pieces of flat cardboard and usually have no problem giving you a piece or 2. This will allow you to see your design and make any adjustments, especially with the angles. You could even place the piece where the final product is intended to go, and see how it looks.

Richard

[Brian Holcombe]

Some of this terms i have no clear idea what they mean, for example stretcher and what is #4?
Is this what u mean?

313962 90 degree legs and just cut normal tenons and mortises.
Ofcourse i am goint to use the top and legs as it is(no flattening)


I'm counting four boards in from the left in the photo you posted. The stretcher is the board that holds the upright boards into position. its the horizontal board under the table.

I'd flatten it....makes life alot easier.

[Prashun Patel]

I'd at least flatten the bottom where the legs will intersect. I'd also evenly thickness the tops of the legs where the stretcher will intersect it and where it will meet the top.

Have square and flat reference surfaces makes joinery much easier.

Flattening the bottom of slabs is amazingly great practice. You'll likely have a couple areas that have weird grain, so you'll get to practice smoothing tricky grain. You'll also learn about removing twist and minor cups. Best of all, if it's not perfect (with the exception of the parts that will have joints) you won't see it.