kreig jig screw length?

[chris ormsby]

What length screws do I want for 3/4 face frames or plywood? Any other length screws good to keep on hand? thanks in advance Chris

[scott vroom]

I believe 1-1/4" is recommended for 3/4" stock, but I switched to 1" and pre-drill pilot holes because I got tired of maple face frames splitting. Plenty strong.

Use fine threads for hardwood and coarse for softwood/plywood.

[Lee Schierer]

I use 1-1/4" Kreg screws. I've not had a problem with splitting in oak, poplar or soft maple.

[Matt Day]

I always have screws for 1/2", 3/4" (both course and fine) and 1 1/2" (2x stock) on hand. Each box has a handy little guide for screw type on them I think, and of course you can google "kreg screw chart" to find it.

[Jim Andrew]

I have gone to predrilling my holes as well, tired of splitting out a face frame. Have found that walnut works better with coarse thread screws.

[Bruce Wrenn]

When buying Kreg screws, check out Home Depot online, with free delivery to store. Saves a bunch of money.

[Danny Hamsley]

Like Scott says, 1 1/4" screws for 3/4" lumber.

[allan kuntz]

here is a handy reference
http://www.elitetools.ca/en/product/kreg-screw-selector-wheel-ssw/
I am sure it is available in the United States

[George Bokros]

I have gone to predrilling my holes as well, tired of splitting out a face frame. Have found that walnut works better with coarse thread screws.

How do you know where to predrill the anchor hole? I have had some cases of splitting oak face frames.

Thanks

[scott vroom]

How do you know where to predrill the anchor hole? I have had some cases of splitting oak face frames.

Thanks

I first drill the pocket hole, do the clamp up, and then place the pilot drill bit in the pocket pilot hole.

Jim, do do it the same way?

[Justin Ludwig]

I believe 1-1/4" is recommended for 3/4" stock, but I switched to 1" and pre-drill pilot holes because I got tired of maple face frames splitting. Plenty strong.

If you're getting a lot of splitting, you're drilling too close to edge of the stock and your clutch may be set too high on the drill. It's most likely that you're drilling too close. I had to beat my helper with a stick before he could remember to stop drilling them so close.

Stay away from knots on the ends if you're building something rustic - should go without saying, but we all know that's never the case.

If you're getting splitting on the receiving piece, you're too deep with the pocket screw. I still use the Kreg jig, and the only problems I've had with splitting were from what I mention. Hickory is the worst.

[Martin Wasner]

Apparently I'm the only one who uses 1½ for pocket screws. I don't use a Kreg jig, or Kreg screws either.

[glenn bradley]

Apparently in the only one who uses 1½ for pocket screws. I don't use a Kreg jig, or Kreg screws either.

That would explain it,. The offset and or angle could be different.

I use pocket holes as a problem solver more than a common assembly method. Due to that I keep washer head screws and pan head "pocket" screws of various lengths. Back before a lot of accessories were available I built a depth gauge.

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Things have gotten a little more sophisticated now and if this didn't already have a home in a drawer, would probably have been scrapped. You drop the drill into the proper hole, slide the stop down till it stops and tighten it. I taped a label on with general screw size and jig position info. The numbers for offset are from actual test pieces and I'm sure there are other methods and approaches.

[Martin Wasner]

That would explain it,. The offset and or angle could be different.

Yep. Castle pockets are much shallower than a Kreg pocket. Mine is setup to allow 11/16" of penetration with an 1½" screw. The Castle also drills all the way through with the pilot hole.

[Mike Heidrick]

When buying Kreg screws, check out Home Depot online, with free delivery to store. Saves a bunch of money.
You have said this a couple times but they charge full price. What savings ar you seeing? There are way cheaper kreg prices out there on the 5000 and 2000 count boxes. Zoro, us fastners, etc. Just curious what deal are you getting, just free store pickup?

[Jebediah Eckert]

You have said this a couple times but they charge full price. What savings ar you seeing? There are way cheaper kreg prices out there on the 5000 and 2000 count boxes. Zoro, us fastners, etc. Just curious what deal are you getting, just free store pickup?

+1. I fell for it as well. Thought I somehow overlooked HD. We must be missing something.

[scott vroom]

If you're getting splitting on the receiving piece, you're too deep with the pocket screw.

Bingo....which is why I went to a shorter screw and pilot hole. Nothing more aggravating than milling and routing FF stiles only to have them blow out and have to do over. Haven't had a single failure since.

[jack duren]

I use 1 1/4 and 1 1/2. On the Castle I use 1.5 and on the home made I use 1.25. I don't crack anything using the 1.5 screws.

[scott vroom]

I'm adding a pic to clarify the issue I've had. I often drill the pocket holes into 1.5" FF rail stock. I typically drill 2 holes, using the Kreg B&C marked guides. This places one of the screws centered 7/16" from the end of the stile, as seen in the pic. Forgetting pocket holes for a moment, if I drove a screw into the edge of a 3/4" board only 7/16 from the end and without a pilot hole I'd expect split out some of the time. Pre-drilling a pilot hole and using 1" screws eliminates any potential problem in my experience.

[jack duren]

I'm not sure on the KREG but I have the option to move the screw back and forth depending on how much thread I want in the stile. It also helps when they are clamped down upon assembly. Also helps with pre lubricated screws.
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[Bruce Wrenn]

Current prices shown on HD site are more than TWICE what I paid a couple months back. That was when they were running step bits for $7.50 each. Way more than that now also.

[Mark W Pugh]

What length screws do I want for 3/4 face frames or plywood? Any other length screws good to keep on hand? thanks in advance Chris

For future reference. http://api.ning.com/files/kkaG0viVHkNd-SfGSpTRmBlgsvBZqmEnccRShdqRBBSBc7CLSC7tlARJkc*jg*5 YtR5bjw1U4mJZ6N5bMGBfmudw0kAcTqSr/ScrewSettings.pdf

[Roger Pozzi]

For future reference. http://api.ning.com/files/kkaG0viVHkNd-SfGSpTRmBlgsvBZqmEnccRShdqRBBSBc7CLSC7tlARJkc*jg*5 YtR5bjw1U4mJZ6N5bMGBfmudw0kAcTqSr/ScrewSettings.pdf

Nice chart but,,,,,,,,, what does the top and side measurements reference? If you look at 1/2" on the top and 3/4" on the side you'll get a different answer than if you reverse the measurements.

[Mark W Pugh]

Nice chart but,,,,,,,,, what does the top and side measurements reference? If you look at 1/2" on the top and 3/4" on the side you'll get a different answer than if you reverse the measurements.

The left column is the stock you drill. The top numbers are the thickness of wood you are attaching the drilled piece to. I hope I got that correct, but it makes sense if you look at it (I think).

[Roger Pozzi]

Thank you Mark. ;)