tear out...again

[Joe Skinner]

I'm working some QS oak, and am getting tear out jointing an edge. 6-8 inch is great, the an inch of tear out where the grain rises, then all is good again. I suppose species is not important for my question. What is the best way to deal with this? I'm using a low angle jack, and tried a #4.

Do I need a toothing blade for the #4, or do I need a high angle blade? I'm not opposed to getting another tool, but like most, I'm not wealthy. Or do I have the right tools, but wrong skills?

[ken hatch]

Take a look at this English Woodworker video, Richard isn't saying anything new, that hasn't been beat to death on this forum but the video is very good and shows the result of two different cap iron settings on the same board.

http://www.theenglishwoodworker.com/cap-irons-tear-out-video/?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+TheEnglishWoodworker+%28The+E nglish+Woodworker%29

ken

[Steve Voigt]

The tools you have are fine. You can either learn to use the chipbreaker on your #4, or you can increase the bevel on your LAJ. I would do the former, but whatever floats your boat.
For the chipbreaker, I like this video by Kees. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pSjpzta0FuY) If you don't know what a close-set chipbreaker looks like, it will help you get a feel for that.
For the bevel-up route, You probably want an effective cutting angle in the mid 50°s, so maybe start with a 40° microbevel on your iron, and then increase it little by little until the tearout is gone. Of course, if you don't like the idea of re-grinding your iron, that would be another good reason to go the chipbreaker route.

[James Pallas]

I have worked a good bit of QS oak lately both white and red. Steve has it right for sure get the angle up on your LAJ and it should work. It may help to rub some mineral spirits or alcohol on the really tough spots. Your #4 will work also if you get the cap iron set up right.
Jim