Suggestions for drawer joints?

[Steven J Corpstein]

I am about ready to start some simple cupboards for the Fiancé and wanted to get opinions on joints for the drawer boxes? I'm waffling between sliding dovetails or using a locking drawer bit in the router table. Cupboards do not warrant using a true dovetail joint. Thanks.

[Mike Cutler]

I'd use the Drawer Lock Bit. I disagree that dovetails are out of place. They would be a very nice touch, and the quality would be admired all the time.

[Mike Wenzloff]

Simple is good and warranted at times. Which are you most comfortable with? Do you have both types of bits? Either can be quick, but I like the strength of the sliding dovetails between the two.

Mike

[Kirk (KC) Constable]

I'm certainly no purist...but why would dovetails be inappropriate? I can cut machine dovetails for a drawer in maybe 10 minutes. So why not? :confused: I do have the adbantage of a dedicated router,so I don't have the 'fiddle factor'.

KC

[Rob Russell]

Even if this is your first attempt at dovetails, whether machine or hand cut, why would you NOT use dovetails?

Since this is for your fiance, one would assume that you'll be living with it for a long time. I'd think that she'll appreciate the extra time and care you put into something like dovetails instead of a lesser joint.

If this is your first time doing hand-cut dovetails, I'll bet that she'd be thrilled with the fact that you hand-cut them for her and would overlook any "less than perfect" aspects of the joints.

Rob

[larry merlau]

i am not a dovetail expert in any way or means and have done the drawer lock as well, but for somethng special like you mentined it should have the best it can have. you wont be sorry after you see her face and again each time her or someone else looks at the peice your making.

[Mark Singer]

Kreg Jig makes a good joint

[Jeff Sudmeier]

Steven,

I don't know about your Fiance, but I know that my wife wouldn't know a dovetail if it bit her on the A... well you know :)

Long story short, I want to learn to make dovetails too, but I would go with what you are most comfortable with.

[Wes Bischel]

Steven,
To follow up on Mark's comment, he had a good post a while back on Kreg made drawers:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=10546

I haven't done drawers this way, but it looks fast and functional.

My last set of drawers were made with the cheap HF dovetail fixture and worked out well (less than $40 total including a dovetail bit from MLCS). Not fine woodworking by any means, but they are strong, durable joints.

FWIW,

Wes

[Carl Eyman]

A few years ago our local Habitat affiliate was given a number of new kichen cabinets from a manufacturer's overstock. Some had been cannabalized to the point they were missing drawers or doors. Because it was unwise, I thought, to make new parts that were higher quality than the old, I chose to use the interlocking router bit. It works better in plywood than a dovetail jig does. I was completley satisfied with the results. I've seen the owners of the houses that received these cabinets and no one has complained yet. The bit is easy to use once you have the thing set; so if you have a number of drawers to make, it makes a lot of sense to use the bit.

In summary, if there are a lot of drawers and they have plywood sides go with the interlocking joint. If you have only a few and are using hardwood sides, go with half blind dovetails.

Oh, if you don't already have a dovetail jig, this job may not be sufficient to justify the purchase.

[Mike Wenzloff]

Really great use of the Kreg, Mark.

Think I'll try it on some shop cabinets before a paying client. But as I think about it, it seems a great compromise for that special client who wants the cost as low as possible and I desire the strength.

Thanks, Mike

[Keith Christopher]

One thing about dovetails though, there is always the "boast factor".


"I designed these cabinets and (blah blah blah) and one thing to note however *pull drawer out* is these are all dovetailed by me. You see most cabinet construction is (blah blah blah) but since I was making these the 'right' way I decided to go with a joint that is dated as far back as ancient egypt. . ."


LOL..

All kidding aside doing dovetails will also give you a chance to practice them. Drawer lock bit does what it does and a locking rabbet is a good joint, just not very pretty.


my .50c

Keith

[Tim Sproul]

Drawer lock bit will provide an extremely fast milling method for cutting the joinery. On the downside, you need to actually clamp the drawers after applying adhesive (I'm assuming adhesive that requires clamping pressure to achieve a high-strength bond).

Dovetails - through, half-blind or sliding - only need enough clamping to hold the drawer square since the adhesive just keeps the mechanical interlocks from wiggling about. Cutting many drawers via dovetails is slower than drawer lock.

[Jeff A. Smith]

Just use Blum metabox drawer parts. They supply metal sides, you supply a nice front and plywood bottoms and backs, and you're done. Screw assembly is much quicker than any router bit or dovetail jig, and I mean... hey... it's only a fiancee, right? :eek:

Then, after the engagement is called off, the drawer parts can be converted to shop fixtures. :)

I say this only to illustrate that you need to do the dovetails! ;)

Jeff Smith
Athens, AL