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Stewie Simpson
05-08-2015, 1:36 AM
As far as I know its hasn't been done on a backsaw, so it will be an opportunity to test my skills.

I am using Australian Jarrah with some very nice feature through it for the handle. Its not the easiest of timbers to shape with, but its still doable.

The saw plate will be of 0.020 gauge; 20 inches x 3 inches below the spine.

For those not familiar with the shape of a D8 heel; here is one I recently refurbished.

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/D8%20refurbishment/_DSC0457_zpsfeb8fh9s.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/D8%20refurbishment/_DSC0457_zpsfeb8fh9s.jpg.html)

The handle is still in its early stages of shaping, with the saw plate slot completed.

Stewie;

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0508_zpsj4lra06p.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0508_zpsj4lra06p.jpg.html)

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0509_zpssh2dk0fr.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0509_zpssh2dk0fr.jpg.html)

Stewie Simpson
05-08-2015, 5:36 AM
The primary heel cut of the saw plate is indicated by the pencil line that runs vertically down the cheek. (2nd photo)

Stewie Simpson
05-08-2015, 6:58 AM
Pedder's detective work has revealed an extended heel has been done before on a backsaw. The Harvey Peace P - 47. (far right photo within attachment).

http://positiverake.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/Saws-in-Box_061.jpg

Stewie Simpson
05-09-2015, 9:25 PM
To cut the saw plate slot on my backsaw handles I use a slitting blade mounted to a router table.

The tool holder I use for the slitting blades has an O.D. of 30mm. For this handle I chose a slitting blade with a 40mm O.D x 0.020 gauge. This gave me an effective cutting depth of 5mm. Ideal for the bottom rail of the handle. Other areas of the handle that needed further deepening of the slot, such as through the cheek of the handle, a backsaw with a matching 0.020 saw plate gauge was used. (no set on the saw teeth).

Thin gauge slitting blades are not designed to be run at high speed. If you wish to trial my method I would advice you to proceed with caution. Only use a variable speed router that's mounted securely on a router table, with the router speed set at its slowest rpm.

Stewie;

Stewie Simpson
05-11-2015, 12:39 AM
A slight change to the final sizing of the saw plate. The new dimensions are 18" L x 2 1/2 D (below the spine).

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0510_zpsaijsxa32.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0510_zpsaijsxa32.jpg.html)

Shaping the contoured heel on the saw plate was fairly straight forward using a Dremel with a grinding stone attachment.

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0512_zpsktm8daux.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0512_zpsktm8daux.jpg.html)

A close up of the heel fit with the handle in position.

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0511_zpsplkb2spy.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0511_zpsplkb2spy.jpg.html)

Next step will be installing the 3 x saw bolt assemblies.

Stewie;

James Pallas
05-11-2015, 10:26 PM
Stewie
i really like the look of your saws. Most all good custom makers have nice looking saws but for some reason yours say "Let's go cut some serious wood" where many of the others look like Sunday drivers to me. Your designs are great.
Jim

Stewie Simpson
05-12-2015, 1:21 AM
The saw bolt assemblies have been installed.

Shaping of the edge profiles on the handle has started.

Stewie;

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0513_zpshzoocf70.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0513_zpshzoocf70.jpg.html)

Stewie Simpson
05-12-2015, 1:27 AM
Stewie
i really like the look of your saws. Most all good custom makers have nice looking saws but for some reason yours say "Let's go cut some serious wood" where many of the others look like Sunday drivers to me. Your designs are great.
Jim


Hi Jim. Appreciate your feedback on my saw making work.

Stewie;

Bill White
05-12-2015, 10:36 AM
Stewie, you can send that saw to me for some serious testing when it is completed. Right? :D
Bill

Stewie Simpson
05-12-2015, 10:40 AM
Of relevance to this handsaw and many other examples, the area of saw plate directly under the handle only serves a limited function.. As a result, the total length of any saw plate is not an indicator to its usable stroke length. With this backsaw for example; it may have an 18" saw plate, but with the extended heel pattern, only the front 14" of tooth line will likely see much work.

Stewie;


http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/14c1da94-4592-4098-ac4d-6c6a0074c253_zps0yaie8cw.jpg?t=1431354079

Phil Mueller
05-12-2015, 8:46 PM
Beautiful saw...very talented.

I'm curious about a few things...being somewhat new to woodworking, I'm always interested in how things were done. If you'll bear with me...

I assume you created a line around the handle and rounded the wood to the line. What do you use to make the line even with the outside...freehand, scribe,? What tool do you use to round the wood?

There is a cut line (or so it appears) at the lower part of the handle (sorry don't know the proper terms)...was that to run a saw to make the opening? Did you use a jig saw, or?

Also, I sure would appreciate a few photos when you get to cutting the teeth...I have no idea how that is done and would be interested in seeing that.

Thank you!

Stewie Simpson
05-13-2015, 1:22 AM
Hi Phil. The following is an excellent tutorial on how to sharpen a Handsaw. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-_MF2Mnxwc

The inner profile lines on the handle are marked via the finger gauge.
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l290/expo74/IMG_0872.jpg (http://www.google.com.au/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CAcQjRw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.vwt4forum.co.uk%2Fshowthread. php%3Ft%3D116549&ei=udpSVeOQDqXCmwWakID4BA&bvm=bv.93112503,d.dGY&psig=AFQjCNFDiQke3SFdM6InDnurvdgDn2C5iA&ust=1431579688046788)

I use a slitting blade fitted to a router table to cut the initial saw plate slot. Then deepen that slot using a fine toothed backsaw. This can all be done using a finely set backsaw blade as demonstrated in the following photo.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iD5oTyhyQwo/Twb5zvl5qaI/AAAAAAAAALU/_6tfsw6TA1U/s1600/fig+17.JPG

I use a number of different types of rasps to shape my backsaw handles. The Saw Handle Makers Rasp is what you need to complete most of the shaping work.

https://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/prodimg/gt/big/GT-SHRASP_A_big.jpg

regards Stewie;

Stewie Simpson
05-14-2015, 12:51 AM
Further progress made with the final shaping of this backsaw handle. Jarrah is certainly on my list of difficult Australian timbers to shape into a saw handle.

Stewie;

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0516_zpsj7bhmcm3.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0516_zpsj7bhmcm3.jpg.html)

Kees Heiden
05-14-2015, 2:15 AM
There is a cut line (or so it appears) at the lower part of the handle (sorry don't know the proper terms)...was that to run a saw to make the opening? Did you use a jig saw, or?

Thank you!


I think you mean the lambs tongue. That is a carved decorative detail. It certainly is 't a sawcut. The wood is still attached at that point.

Phil Mueller
05-14-2015, 1:19 PM
What was I thinking? "Oh, looks like he ran a jig saw blade through there to cut the handle opening"...forgive me, please.

Stewie Simpson
05-14-2015, 9:52 PM
Hi Phil. Did you find the information I provided helpful.

Stewie;

Phil Mueller
05-14-2015, 10:48 PM
Hi Stewie, sorry, I've replied a few times, but something seems to be amiss with my internet...keep getting booted...probably my son's gaming is sucking more than the pipeline can handle.
Anyway, yes, you're info was very helpful. The finger gauge was sometime I was taught decades ago in high school woodshop. Sometimes we get caught up in the "what is the best tool to do this" and forget how accurate our sense of touch can be.
Love the file. Haven't seen one like that before. I am always fascinated by the fact that there are so many specialized tools. There was a time, not so long ago, that only saw makers might have been exposed to this tool. The internet has really enabled us to discover useful devices and techniques from all sorts of disciplines we might be able to use for our craft.
Anyway, I ramble.
The saw video was excellent. Gives me a much better appreciation of saw making and saws.

Thanks again.

Phil

Stewie Simpson
05-18-2015, 12:05 AM
Shaping work to the handle is now complete, apart from some minor touch ups to the lambs tongue to improve its flow and appearance.I have also added a double step to the outside curvature on the bottom rail of the handle , to improve soften that transition point.An external curve has also been added to the exposed heel of the saw plate as a means of improving its transition away from the handle.The handle will now undergo further coats of amber shellac and light sanding in between to fill any small micro voids within the wood surface. It should also aid to further darken the final appearance of the Jarrah wood.

Stewie;http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0518_zps60oaxo93.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0518_zps60oaxo93.jpg.html)http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0519_zpscki08ueq.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0519_zpscki08ueq.jpg.html)

Stewie Simpson
05-20-2015, 10:49 PM
The handle has received its 4th and final coat. Its actual appearance is about 2 shades darker than the camera was able to pick up. I will leave the shellac finish to further harden over the next 5 days before hitting it with a mechanical buff.

The chamfered edge on the brass back has been hand filed . This was done using a round needle file, a standard cut feather file; followed up by a fine cut feather file, and 400 grit sand paper. A 600 grit Grey 635 Bear- Tex Pad was then used to remove any fine scratches on the brass surface.

The slotted brass back has been secured to the top of the saw plate using a Loctite thread sealant.

The next phase of the backsaw build will be hand filing the saw teeth.

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0521_zpszebvcyyq.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0521_zpszebvcyyq.jpg.html)

A closer view of the edge profile around the handle cheeks.
http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0522_zpsyi3iqioj.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0522_zpsyi3iqioj.jpg.html)

Stewie;

Stewie Simpson
05-21-2015, 5:26 AM
From a distance the surface pattern on the saw plate reminds me of Damascus Steel.

Mark Stutz
05-21-2015, 8:59 AM
WOW, just WOW! That would make a great addition to anyone's saw till. Now you just need to come up with your own logo to etch into the saw plate.

Stewie Simpson
05-21-2015, 9:21 AM
Hi Mark. A metal stamp for marking my brass backs is already underway with Chalco. http://www.spanglefish.com/metalstamps/index.asp?pageid=327246

TOTE TOOL CO
AUSTRALIA

Gary Herrmann
05-21-2015, 8:03 PM
Stewie, superb job on that saw!




Stutz!

Stewie Simpson
05-22-2015, 1:13 AM
Thanks Gary. Appreciate the feedback.

Stewie Simpson
05-22-2015, 1:15 AM
The saw teeth have been filed 11 tpi with a 10* rake angle.

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0523_zpsznjxydfk.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0523_zpsznjxydfk.jpg.html)

Remaining to do will be to apply the set; give the teeth a single pass with the jointer file; then resharpen each tooth to a point.

The plastic sheeting is to protect the saw plate while its held within the saw vise.

Stewie;

Rich Greinert
05-22-2015, 4:59 PM
Have really learned a lot following this thread.
Thanks so much for posting!
First class workmanship.

Stewie Simpson
05-22-2015, 8:25 PM
Thanks Rich. Appreciate your feedback.

Stewie;

Stewie Simpson
05-24-2015, 2:06 AM
The following are photo's of the now completed backsaw.

During final test cuts, I found it difficult to find a fault within this saw's functionality and design.

regards Stewie;


http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0528_zps1h3xaahv.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0528_zps1h3xaahv.jpg.html)

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0525_zpsxlfdhme8.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0525_zpsxlfdhme8.jpg.html)

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0526_zpsqhmcspax.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0526_zpsqhmcspax.jpg.html)

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0527_zpsthi1x0s9.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0527_zpsthi1x0s9.jpg.html)

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0529_zpsrhjkxawf.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0529_zpsrhjkxawf.jpg.html)

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0530_zpsw2phd56m.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0530_zpsw2phd56m.jpg.html)

James Pallas
05-24-2015, 8:03 PM
That is a great looking saw and it looks like it will do the job too. A few questions for you, When you design a saw do you have a primary purpose in mind, meaning narrow focus, like large tenons? It is obvious that this saw is capable of many operations but is it designed to do one thing very well? Does a saw of that length need to have more set to keep it from binding in long cuts? How much more weight does the jarrah ad to the handle then something like the plum you used in the past. I'm not going to start building saws I am however interested in your approach. Thanks in advance.
Jim

Stewie Simpson
05-25-2015, 10:15 AM
Hi Jim. The depth of the saw plate, not its length, is the determining factor on how much set should be applied to the saw teeth.

The difference in weight between Jarrah and the Plum wood is quite minimal.

This backsaw is designed to be most effective when used at or near full depth of saw plate. Rip and x-cut work.

regards Stewie;

Phil Mueller
05-25-2015, 6:28 PM
Stunning, Stewie...
Generations from now woodworkers will cherish their vintage "Stewie Saw"!

Stewie Simpson
05-25-2015, 11:17 PM
Thanks Phil. Not all that have followed this thread will share a similar understanding as to reasons why I put in so much effort into my saw making work.

regards Stewie;