Stops for inset doors

[jim mills]

Whats being done these days? I've done the cheap plastic stops with magnets, raised the bottom shelf a bit proud of the face frame, and used some metal L brackets at the top of the door combined with self closing hinges. Don't really have a favorite.

[Justin Ludwig]

I don't know if there's a nifty little piece being bought and used these days. I just built over 100ln ft of inset cabinets and I just use scrap material from the face frame, glue and nail it centered between doors at the top-back of the faceframe.

[George Bokros]

I would drop the top down and raise the bottom up a little, maybe 1/8". It looks the best in my opinion and does not interfere with the use of the cabinet.

[jim mills]

I would drop the top down and raise the bottom up a little, maybe 1/8". It looks the best in my opinion and does not interfere with the use of the cabinet.

George, when you do this, do you use a catch, or self closing hinges?

[George Bokros]

George, when you do this, do you use a catch, or self closing hinges?

I would use self closing hinges because again the catch can be in the way. It I had to use a catch I would install it at the top. On the bottom it would be in the way. If the cabinet door is tall then you have no choice but to use two catches, one at the top and one at the bottom.

[Jamie Buxton]

What I do depends upon the hinges.

With knuckle hinges and inset doors, I raise the floor, embed a piece of steel in the front of the raised floor, and embed a magnet in the back of the door. That is, the floor is raised by 5/8" or so. The steel goes in before I edgeband, so it is invisible. The magnet in the door gets concealed by a circular cork stick-on bumper. If the door is tall, I may also put a stop-plus-magnets at the top. There, the steel lives inside a simple block screwed to the back of the cabinet face.

With self-closing cup hinges, the magnetic stuff is not needed. But the rest of the construction is the same, except I use stem bumpers. Stem bumpers are more likely to stay in place over the years than the stick-on kind.

The point of this approach is that access to the shelves is not impeded by latches.

[Tom Ewell]

Just used some of these with cup hinges, got'em in clear, mounted at top

https://www.fastcap.com/estore/pc/Euro-Door-Stop-p13233.htm

[Peter Quinn]

I raise the bottom deck 3/8", make a full stop at the top that gets screwed into the back of the upper rail on the FF, I make the frames 3/32" thicker than the doors on self closing hinges and use door bumpers, no catches. If using brass butt hinges I use the catches at the top.

[jim mills]

I like the idea of raising the floor, but that means edgebanding, and i dont do edgebanding, unless it is solid wood. That would make for a lot of xtra work.
great idea making the frame thicker to allow for a bumper

[Steve Jenkins]

I use a small block, about 1/2"square at the top and use self closing hinge at the top only with the others being free swinging.

[Victor Robinson]

+1 on Fastcap stops at the top.

[glenn bradley]

Self closing hinges are OK in the kitchen and bath but, I avoid them on furniture. I think the FastCap stops would be easiest to install and adjust for self-slamming doors. For other fixtures around the home I go with a magnetic catch, usually built into the piece

313265 . 313264

or disguised in a "wart" where the magnet is inserted from behind.

313263

In high traffic / use areas like kitchen and bath, remembering to close the door can be a bother so, self closers make sense.