Meber 500 (20") for 45 deg bevel cuts

[Lucas Orve]

Hello everyone,

As explained in this thread: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?192812-Epic-Meber-Holz-SR-DS-500-Bandsaw&p=2393941&highlight=#post2393941, I recently purchased a used Meber SR 500 ("20") bandsaw (from 2003). I really like the saw, which is built to high standards and runs very smoothly and virtually without any vibration.

The issue I have now is that the table will only tilt enough for 20 deg bevel cuts (because of European CE norms). This is also clearly stated on Meber's own web page: http://www.meber.com/E_Tradizionalip.asp, which states "The worktable can be tilted to 45° on all models (except for CE equipment where machines have 20° tilting table)", so no surprise.

Now, I would really like to be able to do 45 deg cuts, so therefore I thought that a quick fix would be to remove the little bar below from the cradle (presumably put there to enable Meber to do both configurations):
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I also replaced the 20 deg scale for a 45 deg scale, ordered from Meber (yes, you can still order spares and accessories, but communication and payment can be a bit difficult):
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So now the table will tilt further than 20 deg, but, as you can see, it then collides with the frame at about 36 deg.

To solve this problem, I suppose that you could cut the corner of the frame as suggested below (and then weld, or glue, in a cover), although this may seem a bit drastic:
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It may also be necessary to modify the recession for the inset, or cutting the dust collection mouthpiece at a 45 deg angle:
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Another solution might be to install a ~25 mm (1") spacer underneath the cradle, but that would then reduce the resaw capacity from 280 mm (11") to 255 mm (10").
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So therefore I thought that perhaps any of you guys outside of EU (and therefore not limited by CE regulations) with a Meber saw (or any of the makes that Meber built for) might be able help me out.

Does your machine tilt 45 deg, and how could this be achieved? Any suggestions? If you have a 500mm (20") Meber saw, then what's the maximum resaw capacity?

[glenn bradley]

How often and what types of material will you cut at 45*? Would a sled or sub-table be a possibility?

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[Bradley Gray]

+1 on a sub table. I have several made to angles I use often - much quicker set up and I can go back and forth to a square cut with repeatability.

[Lucas Orve]

How often and what types of material will you cut at 45*? Would a sled or sub-table be a possibility?

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Not sure yet... Lately, I've used the (well, another) bandsaw for less complicated constructions, like the frame of my house. This includes a cylindrical "tower" in wood (with plaster on), so plenty of shaped members there. But any year now I'm planning to retire, and then pick up furniture making as a hobby again. I will need to improve and update my skills, so not sure exactly what would be my needs, but if the saw can do 45 deg, then that would be the preferred solution. A sled might work, but would seem a bit like a workaround and not a true solution. Then again, the two solutions could supplement each other, so no harm in employing both...

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[Jamie Buxton]

How often and what types of material will you cut at 45*? Would a sled or sub-table be a possibility?

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How does that sled work? Make one cut, and you've cut off the ledge, so the next time you use the sled there's nothing for the workpiece to sit against.

[Wade Lippman]

How does that sled work? Make one cut, and you've cut off the ledge, so the next time you use the sled there's nothing for the workpiece to sit against.

You make the sled out of ice. The cut freezes together as soon as the blade is by.

[Bob Vavricka]

I think the idea is that the sled stays stationary and you move the work past the blade on the sled. I could be wrong.

[Peter Quinn]

Hi Lucas, I just got a chance to look at my saw, its identical to yours except no nanny state safety features, definitely tilts to 45 degrees, I'm set up for resaw presently so don't want to actually tilt and take pictures, but I have done it in the past with no particular interaction with the frame. The one suggestion I have is you may be able to raise your table a bit using the four threaded rods that connect the trunnion to the table. On mine there is almost no threaded rod sticking down below the lower locking bolts, which makes me think the table is higher by that factor? Perhaps bringing your table up that last 10-12mm would allow it to clear the frame edge? I would not consider modifying the frame, seems it could do more harm than good to the integrity, especially in that lower guide area. My resaw is 31.4cm max, if yours is a bit higher than that it may be because the tables are set a bit lower? So you can check that. You should not have to modify any structure to reach 45 degrees with this machine. That "safety" feature looks like a wink and nod thing to make the EU safety nannys happy but to be easy for wood workers to eliminate and move on would life. Hope this helps.

[Lucas Orve]

Hi Peter,

Many thanks for your comments.


I'm set up for resaw presently so don't want to actually tilt and take pictures, but I have done it in the past with no particular interaction with the frame.
Also some pics in the "non-tilt" position would be very interesting, so if you would be able to post some, then this would be very much appreciated. Then again, there's no big hurry, so please do not feel pressed.


The one suggestion I have is you may be able to raise your table a bit using the four threaded rods that connect the trunnion to the table. On mine there is almost no threaded rod sticking down below the lower locking bolts, which makes me think the table is higher by that factor? Perhaps bringing your table up that last 10-12mm would allow it to clear the frame edge?
Yes, bringing the table up would probably solve the problem, but I'd say I would need at least some 25mm. In such a case however, I think that inserting a spacer underneath the trunnion would be a better option. Adjusting the four connecting bolts would move the center of rotation relative to the surface of the table, and could result in difficulties adjusting the blade such that it doesn't contact the table in either end position. A spacer wouldn't have the same problem, but in both cases my resaw capacity would then be reduced from 280 mm to 255 mm (which seems a bit unfortunate).


I would not consider modifying the frame, seems it could do more harm than good to the integrity, especially in that lower guide area.
Yes, of course the best would not to do such a modification. Then again, I don't think it would have any negative effects on the integrity (in particular if the new cover would be MIG-welded i place). But if it can be avoided, then so much the better.


My resaw is 31.4cm max, if yours is a bit higher than that it may be because the tables are set a bit lower?
Now that's interesting.... Mine is 28 cm, which is exactly what is stated on Meber's home page (see below). All other measures are also exactly as in the table. Could it be that your saw is actually a 600 mm (24") wheel diameter? This would then explain your resaw capacity. Start with the 345 mm as stated for the 24" saw, and then lift the table 30 mm to allow for 45 deg tilt, and you get 315 mm.... So some key measures of your saw would be most helpful.

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That "safety" feature looks like a wink and nod thing to make the EU safety nannys happy but to be easy for wood workers to eliminate and move on would life.
My feeling exactly!

I have also asked the factory, but communication can be a bit difficult (unless you are fluent in Italian), so this might take some time. So any help (especially from you guys in the US, who are not burdened with nanny state intervention) would be most welcome....

[Peter Quinn]

I think I was mistaken, I have 29mm resaw capacity, so 11 3/8", but definitely a 500 saw, not even close to 24". I'm thinking the 31.4" was from the saw at my last job! I have no interaction between blade and table, the pivot is centered with blade travel on mine, making it higher doesn't change that relationship. I think I could lower my table and squeeze a bit more resaw out if it were critical, but it never has been, and its not the sort of adjustment I'd like make often. I'll try to take a few pics when I'm back in the shop.

[Lucas Orve]

Thank you very much. Some pics would be really helpful. Seems really strange....

The height of my saw is 1860 mm (73 1/4"), excluding the microswitch, and the table is at a height of 855 mm (33 11/16"), which is exactly as specified by Meber. Is yours the same?

[Lucas Orve]

Just to explain the reason why I don't think that adjusting the bolts will work.

Yes, the pivot will stay centered with the travel of the blade in both cases. However, when adjusting the bolts, the pivot will stay at the same height, and will not move with the table, creating a vertical offset between table and pivot. This offset will then generate a horizontal travel when the table is tilted, which could lead to the blade contacting the table.

Now, if instead you insert a spacer, then the pivot and the table will move together. Therefore the geometry in the tilted position won't change as a result of the modification.

The below is my (somewhat simplified and exaggerated) understanding of the situation (but I could be wrong):

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Be as it may, but in both cases my resaw capacity would be reduced.

[Lucas Orve]

I'll try to take a few pics when I'm back in the shop.

If you would be able to post some pics (and perhaps some further suggestions), then this would be very much appreciated.

Here are a couple of pics from the left hand side of my saw....
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....and from the back:
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It also seems the blade is very close to contacting the table already at the current max tilt, so not sure how this could be dealt with. The way I reckon, extending the bolts would only make this problem worse.
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I have also been in contact with Meber, but communication can be a bit tricky, so no explicit result yet. So any suggestions would be most helpful. One solution could be that the reinforcements underneath the table have been ground down a bit in the critical area. The below is a picture of Brad's table ("stolen" from his thread and turned upside down), which seem to suggest this could be the case (or maybe I'm just seeing things...).
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[Lucas Orve]

Any suggestions for solving my 45 deg issue from any of the Creekers? I've got the saw installed in my workshop, and so far, so good, but I'd really like to have that 45 deg possibility. Perhaps if someone in the US (i. e. a market outside EC regulations which limits the angle to 20 deg) could post some pics, then this would be very much appreciated.

[Erik Loza]

Any suggestions for solving my 45 deg issue from any of the Creekers? I've got the saw installed in my workshop, and so far, so good, but I'd really like to have that 45 deg possibility. Perhaps if someone in the US (i. e. a market outside EC regulations which limits the angle to 20 deg) could post some pics, then this would be very much appreciated.

How often do you use the full vertical cutting height of your saw?

Erik

[Lucas Orve]

How often do you use the full vertical cutting height of your saw?

Erik

Well, so far never. Then again, if 45 deg is possible without reducing the max height (as detailed in Meber's own spec and confirmed by several "Creekers"), then that would obviously be the way to go (just need to find out how). So it's perhaps not so much about an explicit need, but rather of getting as much capacity and flexibility out of the saw as possible for any future needs.