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View Full Version : Fence rail for a Jet is a Model #JTAS-10-1?



Steve Mathews
05-06-2015, 9:35 AM
As mentioned in another post I just picked up a Jet Model #JTAS-10-1 cabinet saw (pic below) but it's missing the rail that the fence rides on. By all indications it's the same rail as on my Delta Unisaw including the bolt locations. The rail looks like nothing more than 3"x2" 11 gauge tubular steel with drilled and tapped mounting holes. Do you think it's possible to find one used or should I just make one from scratch?

313004

Jim Andrew
05-06-2015, 9:46 AM
Make one. You can find a spray can with paint that is close. Or just paint it grey.

cody michael
05-06-2015, 10:26 AM
shouldn't be to hard to make one, there is instructions out there, I think on the very super cool fence website http://vsctools.com/

Steve Mathews
05-09-2015, 2:11 PM
shouldn't be to hard to make one, there is instructions out there, I think on the very super cool fence website http://vsctools.com/

Thanks for the advice Cody! The suggestions on the link you provided were very helpful, especially using a minimum of 11 gauge steel. I already made my own and it worked out great.

Mike Cutler
05-09-2015, 10:00 PM
As mentioned in another post I just picked up a Jet Model #JTAS-10-1 cabinet saw (pic below) but it's missing the rail that the fence rides on. By all indications it's the same rail as on my Delta Unisaw including the bolt locations. The rail looks like nothing more than 3"x2" 11 gauge tubular steel with drilled and tapped mounting holes. Do you think it's possible to find one used or should I just make one from scratch?

313004

Yep, it's possible to find one.
If that is the fence you have with your saw. I have the entire system stacked in the corner of my shop, same color too. It's a pretty common Jet fence that was used across their line. I think it came in 36" and 52".
One word of caution about that fence. You need to install it with counter sunk screws and not bolts. Those bolt heads sticking out will tear your fingers up something fierce if you're not careful.

It's an ,,,,,, "okay" fence. I replaced mine with an Excaliber though, which is why it's in the corner. Now I don't use either fence system, as the saw is specifically designated for cross cutting.
If you want to keep the saw "bone stock original" I understand that, but if you're looking to really put it back to work, I'd put a Bies' system on it. Mine used to slip, and the adjustments for fence parallel used to go out every now and then. Not really bad, but enough to have an effect.