Rotary Attachment use with Glass w/ Handles

[Rich Ferry]

Hey everyone,

So I have a chinese engraver, and have been loving it actually. It's a newer model and so I think alot of the old problems that people had have been fixed. But it came with the 7-11 hot dog style roller style rotary.

Obviously the problem i have with coffee mugs and beer mugs winds up being that the handle hits the roller, or placing it the other way it would hit the laser. I was thinking cutting two pieces of mdf board into circles, attaching a cone on one side to insert into the mug, and on the other side mounting something to cup the bottom of the mugs.

My partner tried it with pot lids and fashioned everything to hold it, but having a problem with I think it spinning and probably not gaining traction. I'm assuming that's the problem and the thin edges of the lids.

Any suggestions, or thoughts on what to do to change it, or still use her setup but to have it grip? Or would the would work better?

Thanks!

[Mark Sipes]

What focal length lens do you have. you could make rings that would mount on the mugs to elevate past handle height but length of lens need to clear adapters. sounds like a different rotary adapter is going to be required. attached a few pictures, we maybe able to see way to modify your current setup.

Here is a video of what I believe is your problem https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oJjQHPUXeVU (3:00 in) with only 1/2 a mug surface engravable at a time. They could do the entire mug if the drive wheels would separate further and a jig for the mug was created to hold the circumference of the mug allowing the handle to pass under.

Modifying rollers may be an option https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PDEPd14aUSY



.

[Chuck Stone]

I was thinking cutting two pieces of mdf board into circles, attaching a cone on one side to insert into the mug, and on the other side mounting something to cup the bottom of the mugs.

My partner tried it with pot lids and fashioned everything to hold it, but having a problem with I think it spinning and probably not gaining traction. I'm assuming that's the problem and the thin edges of the lids.

Any suggestions, or thoughts on what to do to change it, or still use her setup but to have it grip? Or would the would work better?

Thanks!

Your cones should work fine, but if things are slipping you'll need to modify it a bit.
I'd use some double stick tape on the non-cone end, and I'd apply some sort of
rubber coating to the cone. Could be a brush on latex, silicone caulking, or even
some of that plastic dip you put on tool handles. Anything to give you a little more
grip.

Just remember that if you use the cone and disc method, you have to adjust your
file to match the circumference of the disks. Without modifying the file, the machine
is thinking it is rolling a smaller cylinder and will give you a compressed image on one
axis.

[Rich Ferry]

What focal length lens do you have. you could make rings that would mount on the mugs to elevate past handle height but length of lens need to clear adapters. sounds like a different rotary adapter is going to be required. attached a few pictures, we maybe able to see way to modify your current setup.

Here is a video of what I believe is your problem https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oJjQHPUXeVU (3:00 in) with only 1/2 a mug surface engravable at a time. They could do the entire mug if the drive wheels would separate further and a jig for the mug was created to hold the circumference of the mug allowing the handle to pass under.

Modifying rollers may be an option https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PDEPd14aUSY



.

Perfect, thanks!!

[Bruce Clumpner]

I'd expand on the idea of cutting rings, and turn it into a clamping jig! Cut the rings oversize, laser concentric rings on the surfaces to use to align the mugs inside, laser cut bolt holes and them bolt them together with 1/4" trophy bolts. Cheap enough to make a couple sets. Just clamp down over a mug and drop/align on the rollers.