Antiquity

[Howard Skillington]

I understand that finding a Stanley plane that is pre-WWII assures that, when new, it was of undiminished Stanley goodness. But can a Stanley plane be too old? Is there an early cut-off to be concerned about, or are even late 19th century planes desirable, if they're in good condition?

[Brian Holcombe]

If it's pre-middle ages than it's probably too old.

[Jim Koepke]

Type 3 was a bad design, 1872-1873. They have a totally different frog design.

One of my planes is a type 4 (pre-lateral lever) and three are type 6 (opposite direction on the depth adjustment). All four of them are good users.

My preference is for the pre-ogee style frog, that came along in 1933. My choice is also for the sole casting to not have a ring around the front knob, that started in 1930. These are just my preferences and you can find types with a knob ring or ogee frog to be very good users.

Forgot to include this reference:

https://home.comcast.net/~rarebear/planes101/typing/typing.htm

jtk

[Archie England]

For Stanley planes, types 10-13 are typically the better ones; but as Jim indicated--you can find good ones earlier (6-9) or later (14-19). Smaller brass adj knobs indicate "older," just as the lever cap keyholes can. Sergeants and Millers Falls can be really good planes, as well as Winchester or Vaughn Bushnell, etc. However, I'm personally hesitant of most later 60s and thereafter (if vintage) and absolutely refuse any stamped steel frogs!!!!!

[ken hatch]

I don't use my Stanley's much but all are type 13 or older. The type 9's from the turn of the Century are my favorite mostly because of the modern frog, no extra features, and the low knob.

[Jim Matthews]

If it doesn't have all the fine adjustments
(frog with three screws, lateral adjuster)
then wood body planes are easier to set.

The beauty of the Bailey design is the ease
with which you can adjust shaving thickness.

[Howard Skillington]

Great information, Jim. Thanks.

[Dave Anderson NH]

So far all of the poster have been giving you good advice, but with one caveat. They are only writing about the bench planes numbers 1-8. Some of the specialty planes are definitely worth having newer because they added features, corrected deficiencies, and made many general improvements. Most of the specialty planes, but not all, were discontinued when sales dropped and didn't see a decline in quality.

[Jim Koepke]

So far all of the poster have been giving you good advice, but with one caveat. They are only writing about the bench planes numbers 1-8. Some of the specialty planes are definitely worth having newer because they added features, corrected deficiencies, and made many general improvements. Most of the specialty planes, but not all, were discontinued when sales dropped and didn't see a decline in quality.

The #45s are usually wanted from after ~1911 for users. That is when a few changes for the better came along. There was a rib added to the casting above the blade lock assembly, an fine adjustment feature on the fence and the knob was held on by a bolt instead of internal threads.

The #55s changed the nickers somewhere in the 1920s to the common cloverleaf design. The early nickers are a bit more difficult to find.

Many of the specialty planes did not have blade adjustment mechanisms until the late 1800s or early 1900s. The #78 in the 1920s and the #50 in the 1930s.

jtk