Hoffman/CMT Enlock

[Rick Potter]

My wife is not able to decide what she would like without seeing it first. I have torn apart quite a few face frames, to adjust them up or down a bit. So....I now build a lot of quickie mockups before doing the actual project, and it occurs to me that now that the CMT Enlock system is less than $100, it might be a good way to join plywood mock up cabinet frames. They look like they would be good for mitered doors and pic frames also.

I have seen the Hoffman units, and like their connectors much better. Does anyone know if the two systems use the same size keys? Or, asking the same question differently...do they both use the same type dovetail bits?

Maybe I will get lucky and find a Hoffman on CL.

Thanks,

[Peter Kelly]

I think the smallest keys on both systems are cut with a 3/8" dovetail bit so they're probably interchangeable. The CMT and Hoffmann keys do look a bit differently made though.

Why not pocket screws for face frames?

[Rick Potter]

I use pocket screws for my real face frames Peter, this setup would be for mock ups, and pic frames...........but only if I find a smokin' deal. When I am done with the mock ups, I trash the ply scraps I used. I am also thinking of a roofing stapler for this job, if I find a cheep one.

We had most all of our kitchen mocked up with junk face frames and cardboard before we built it. She made lots of changes along the way.

[Justin Ludwig]

I'm not following how pocket screws without glue would not work for a mock up face frame or cabinet door?

If you think you'd be interested in having full renderings of a mock up of your kitchen, shoot me a PM. All I need is walls, window and appliance centers and a few other details.

Here's an example:

312520

[J.R. Rutter]

I've got a Hoffman, but I'm not wild about using it for joinery other than miters. But that's just due to my OCD when it comes to measurements and exact fit. The miter stop is very accurate and repeatable using setup blocks. But doing cuts along an edge or square end means using a manual stop set from a tape measure or ruler, so each joint has two sources of error. It would be great for mock ups or frames that just need to be within 1/32" - 1/16" of dead accurate though.

[Rick Potter]

I give up. You folks are right, naturally. It is a lousy idea. In the cold light of day, some of my ideas are probably caused by those 9 packs of hot sauce on my last burrito. I think I will just put this idea in my overflowing trash basket of fanciful flights. Pocket screws ARE the obvious answer.


Justin, wonderful offer, and thanks, but images don't do it for her, she needs to walk around them, stick a pan in an opening, and figure out how to best utilize every quarter inch of space. This is the wife who gets full 24" deep drawers in a kitchen, except for the top row where the nail strip is.......those are 23 1/4. This is the gal who managed to design her dream kitchen with 68 drawers, not counting the pantry I am now working on. The drawers are almost all different in some way, height, depth (8" to 28"), shape (some pentagonal), interior dividers, dust covers, glass fronts, lids, purpose (file cabinet to plasticware).

Thanks for the answers,
Rick

[Justin Ludwig]

This is the gal who managed to design her dream kitchen with 68 drawers, not counting the pantry I am now working on. The drawers are almost all different in some way, height, depth (8" to 28"), shape (some pentagonal), interior dividers, dust covers, glass fronts, lids, purpose (file cabinet to plasticware).

Holy schnikies! Don't buy her any kitchen ware for X-mas or birthdays, you'll have to rebuild a drawer!