How do I form this edge?

[Mitchell Garnett]

I'm attempting to make a replacement leg for an old table. I've not done anything like this before. The leg is basically 3/4" thick flat piece of wood with a curved shape. I used a good leg as a pattern for the basic shape but I'm not sure how to make the edge - it is slightly rounded with a 5/8" radius. The image is a poor scan of a sketch. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

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thanks.

[Chris Padilla]

Mitchell,

How about a picture of the actual leg? I'm not quite following what you've got from what you posted there.

[Peter Quinn]

You need a bullnose cutter with a 1 1/4" diameter, or you can do it in two passes with a 5/8" quarter round and sand the little step it will create at center, or it can be done by hand with a block plane, you could relieve most of it with table saw cuts and clean up with a block plane and or sandpaper, A good scratch stock will also handle this effectively, particularly if you waste most of the edges with a table saw first. A jointer with the fence cocked can get you pretty close too if you do a few different angles to follow the curve. How many cats you got? You can skin each one a different way just for fun. Personally I'd use my shaper, but not everyone has one.

[John TenEyck]

If I didn't have the correct router bit(s) already, for one leg I would just use a hand plane followed by sandpaper.

John

[roger wiegand]

It was probably done with a shaper originally, so you could find or make a cutter knife to match the profile, or use a router bit with a large curve that matches the profile you need (either a bullnose to do both sides at once or two passes with an appropriately shaped section of an ogee or thumbnail type bit). For one leg one time I wouldn't try to do it with a machine unless I happened to have the exact cutter needed, but would use a spokeshave to get it close and then sand it smooth.

[Mitchell Garnett]

Chris - I had a feeling I didn't describe things clearly so I've included some photos below.

Peter, John, Roger - thanks for your comments. I'd already thought about using a bullnose bit but I don't really want to buy a bit I'm not likely to use again. Relief cuts and sanding or scraping may be the best way under the circumstances.

FWIW, the table has no value other than my wife wants it for flower arranging - tho' that fact might mean it is invaluable.

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[John Coloccia]

Personally, I'd rough it out with a draw knife (or spokeshave, if that's what you prefer), smooth it out a bit with a rasp, and sand it. You could also just hit it with a rasp and sand it. Draw a line down the middle when you do it, and don't touch that line until the finish sanding. A little bobble or inconsistency won't be noticeable, but a wandering or scalloped mid point will look funny from a side view. It will look like the curve isn't cut well, when in fact all you've done is essentially built in a little twist.

[Rick Whitehead]

Looks like a good job for a scratch stock.
Rick

[Jerry Miner]

FWIW, the table has no value other than my wife wants it....

That's about as valuable as it gets, IME.

For a single unit, yes--rough it out with spokeshave, rasp,..., and sand to finish.

[Keith Westfall]

Why not cut the break on a clean angle and glue a piece on. Much less rounding...

You're going to have to finish either way...

[Mitchell Garnett]

Now that is an option I didn't consider and should. Finishing won't be an issue because she intends to paint the table.

Thanks.

[Lee Schierer]

You need a bullnose cutter with a 1 1/4" diameter, or you can do it in two passes with a 5/8" quarter round and sand the little step it will create at center.

You can avoid the step if you use a fence for both passes. Set the face of the fence flush with or slightly in front of the guide bearing and make your cuts.

[Jim Matthews]

You can avoid the step if you use a fence for both passes. Set the face of the fence flush with or slightly in front of the guide bearing and make your cuts.

Could the original leg be used as a template?

*****

I wonder is you could get two sides right with a broad 1/2 round
and fair the flat between by hand. Once painted, hide it in the back.

[Mitchell Garnett]

In case anyone is interested:

I followed Keith's suggestion to cut off and replace just the broken part. I couldn't get the inside radius where the leg fits against the center post exactly right but I think it is okay since the table isn't fine furniture and it will be painted.

Here's a photo of the result:

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Thanks once more to all the suggestions.

Mitchell