trying to hold a goblet

[jeff oldham]

I have been making some goblets and putting the finish on it before I part it off is no problem,,but after I part it and try to do the bottom,,lol,,that’s where the problem comes in,,i have tried using a block of wood that I turned down to slip the cup into but I just cant seem to get it tight enough,,using the chuck will work but even if you put paper around the it the chuck still bites into the wood leaving a dent,,,any suggestions on how it could be done easier and with out using the chuck,,,,thank you

[John K Jordan]

I've had luck by turning a jam chuck (usually from cedar since it is soft) that barely fits snugly. Turn a shallow shoulder for the rim to press against. The cedar is turned a little longer than usual such that the part to the left of the goblet is not much bigger in diameter than the lip of the goblet. Bring up the tailstock to support, making sure it runs true. Since the jam chuck usually has only the rim to grab, I wrap tape around the goblet securing it to the jam chuck. I like to use gaffers tape since it holds well and removes without residue or damage.

Turn most of the base then back off the tailstock. Supporting the stem of the goblet in my hand (like a steady rest), nibble away at the center nub. (Or finish the last little bit by hand - mini curved cabinet scrapers are perfect for this.) Or do what one club member does, inset an engraved medallion to hide the center and "sign" the piece at the same time!

I've made a them successfully this way, some very thin and delicate.

I have also made a chuck hollowed to grip the outside of the cup and slotted lengthwise to make flexible "fingers", similar to a machinist's collet. Insert the cup and tighten gently with a hose clamp.

A vacuum jam chuck would also help.

JKJ

[Thom Sturgill]

Another option is to mount a jacobs chuck with a sanding disk in the headstock and sand the base clean. Use one of Vince's rounded interface pads.

I have also had luck with jamb chucks which basically just had a groove that the rim fits into snugly. Taping the bowl to the jamb chuck as John mentioned helps too. I've also covered the outside of the chuck jaws with craft foam and expanded into the bowl, but that needs the jaws + foam to be a close fit and still sometimes get marks.

[David Delo]

Here's a creative way.

312480

[Brian Kent]

I just use my combo sander.

[Stan Smith]

I have a set of mini jumbo jaws that fit my Oneway and Talon chucks. I've used them with the tail stock with a rubber chucky. When I saw the rubber chucky, I thought it was hoaky, but it works great if you have the right live center (which are the stock ones from jet mini and midi lathes). No marks left in the base. I also use my Fein multitool to sand off of the lathe since many times I use a Japanese hand saw instead of parting off all the way. I cover the lathe bed with an old towel just in case. I just got a Metabo sander but haven't tried it yet

[Stan Smith]

@ David Delo

Very clever!. Thanks for the pic. How much clamping range is there in diameter?

[John K Jordan]

David,

Ah, your one picture is a lot better than all the words I used to try to describe this.

To answer Stan Smith's question about clamping range, there is not a whole lot but it depends on how thin you turn it, how narrow the "fingers" are, and the type of wood. They are quick to make so you can easily make one to fit. I sometimes wrap cloth around the piece to take up space and pad a bit. (I cut some great padding from those things female people often wear.)

JKJ

[Stan Smith]

David,

Ah, your one picture is a lot better than all the words I used to try to describe this.

To answer Stan Smith's question about clamping range, there is not a whole lot but it depends on how thin you turn it, how narrow the "fingers" are, and the type of wood. They are quick to make so you can easily make one to fit. I sometimes wrap cloth around the piece to take up space and pad a bit. (I cut some great padding from those things female people often wear.)

JKJ

I like your gaffers tape idea. I just ordered a roll. Thanks.

[Scott Hackler]

Try to find a thick rubber band and place it on the outside of the jaws, before expanding into the interior of the goblet.

[Geoff Whaling]

I have been making some goblets and putting the finish on it before I part it off is no problem,,but after I part it and try to do the bottom,,lol,,that’s where the problem comes in,,i have tried using a block of wood that I turned down to slip the cup into but I just cant seem to get it tight enough,,using the chuck will work but even if you put paper around the it the chuck still bites into the wood leaving a dent,,,any suggestions on how it could be done easier and with out using the chuck,,,,thank you

Are you wanting to turn away parts of the base with tools or simply sand?

[John Keeton]

I use a cone shaped piece of scrap in the chuck with either a piece of nitrile glove or drawer liner for cushion and friction. Quick and effective. I finish turn the bottom using light tail stock pressure, leaving a very small post nub, which I cut off and sand smooth using a 1" sanding pad mounted in a Jacobs chuck in the headstock.

[Stan Smith]

I use a cone shaped piece of scrap in the chuck with either a piece of nitrile glove or drawer liner for cushion and friction. Quick and effective. I finish turn the bottom using light tail stock pressure, leaving a very small post nub, which I cut off and sand smooth using a 1" sanding pad mounted in a Jacobs chuck in the headstock.

Thanks for that, John. Sounds practical and easy. Seems like it would be easier to do a slight concave profile on the bottom, too.

[Russell Neyman]

One of my Nifty Fifty Shop Tips:

With a parting tool, take off the waste right down to the last quarter inch, then cut that off with a sharp steak knife cutting up from the bottom and also pressing laterally, allowing the blade to bend. It will usually come off quite cleanly and require very little sanding. This also reduces the occasional tear through that occurs in end grain vessels.

[Russell Neyman]

Try to find a thick rubber band and place it on the outside of the jaws, before expanding into the interior of the goblet.

So, Scott, you're creating an expandable cushion around your jaws? I use Frog Tape, but I like your idea better. I wonder if we could cut old bicycle tubes into bands, too? Hmmmm.

[Michael Mills]

I do similar to John K with a friction chuck. If you have the Nova live center the various "points" are 2MT so they can be used in the headstock also. This is one I made with a rubber ball. In the tailstock it keeps the cup centered and prevents wobbling with light pressure when working on the stem. In the headstock it provides enough friction to drive a small items to clean up the base down to a nub.
I did just learn something... I have been removing the nub off of the lathe holding the goblet in one hand and the drill/disc in the other. :rolleyes: From now on I will mount the disc in the headstock.
This is the "threaded insert" for the Nova in the tailstock and headstock.

You could also glue a slightly larger rubber ball to the end of a piece of PVC and hold the PVC in you chuck jaws.

[robert baccus]

How about a simple cone of soft wood in the headstock and masking tape to prevent movement + the tailstock of course.

[Stan Smith]

So, Scott, you're creating an expandable cushion around your jaws? I use Frog Tape, but I like your idea better. I wonder if we could cut old bicycle tubes into bands, too? Hmmmm.

I like your idea with the bike tubes for chucking from the inside. Probably at least mtn bike tire size. You could cut them to whatever width you want and maybe even have more than one thickness, too. I still like John's idea, too. Different approaches needed for each different project.