More dust collector selection questions. Oneida, Clear Vue, Festool, ???

[Justin Pfenning]

A couple weeks ago, I was just clicks away from ordering a Laguna cyclone dust collector. I posted here for some opinions, and quickly changed my mind. There were quite a few comments suggesting Oneida units, so I looked into those. Then I found an article written by Clear Vue Cyclones. He outlines his design parameters, and goals pretty clearly, and makes a good case for his collectors (HP, and impeller size/material type). Is anyone here using the Clear Vue cyclone collector?

My plan was to purchase a potable unit, and move it from tool to tool, tell I can get a permanent shop set up in a couple years. I can live with this plan, but I hate the thought of spending my hard earned dough on something that will be worth half what I paid in a couple years. Here are my current thoughts, and what I'm considering. The Oneida and Clear Vue stretch my budget to the max. If I get one of these, some other purchases will have to wait. My current tools are Powermatic PM66, Shop Fox 8" joiner, and Jet 16" drum sander. Near future purchases include a 17" band saw, and a planer. Feel free to comment on any of this.

Oneida- 3HP Super dust Gorilla. Looks like nice stuff, gets good reviews here on SMC. Not sure on the impeller size or material. Not Portable. $1780 Future proof???

Clear vue cyclone CV1800- looks like nice stuff. Tons of data and information supporting their designs. True 5 HP and 15" steel impeller are a plus. Not portable. $1695 Should be future proof.

Grizzly- G0548ZP 2HP canister dust collector, 12.75" aluminum impeller. This would be a stop gap till I can afford a real dust collector. This would be portable, and roll up to each machine. $450 Cheapest, but least future proof.

Festool CT36E paired with an Oneida Dust Deputy- more expensive that the Grizzly, not sure on the suction compared to the Griz. $800 Second cheapest, seems really useful in the future for typical shop vac work like cleaning up my cars and sucking up water after scrubbing floors. Does is have enough suction to collect dust and chips from my joiner and table saw?

Thanks for your input.

Justin

[Michael W. Clark]

You may get more responses in the Workshops forum.

The Festool does not have enough volume (CFM) to exhaust the tools you mention, so it is out, in my opinion.

If you have a drum sander, you want a lot of filter area and/or a good cyclone+filter. IMO, the Laguna is out of this one because the cyclone does not appear to be very efficient based on geometry and reviews.

The Oneida and Clearvue are better cyclones. You need to look at filter area because neither of these cyclones will get all the sanding dust. More filter area, more better.

Also, don't discount Grizzly cyclones.

Mike

[Jim German]

The Festool's are shop vacs, and while great for collecting from handheld tools, are not large enough for use with big stationary tools like a table saw or a jointer.

Personally I went with the Clearvue, but the Oneida looks like a nice unit too. I think the Clearvue performs better, but it is much more DIYey than the Oneida. There have been some reports of serious build quality issues with the Laguna cyclone though.

As Mike mentioned, Grizzly has an inexpensive cyclone that may be the best combination of cost and future-proofness for you.

[Rick Alexander]

I own the 3HP Grizzly G0441 model. I've had it about 10 years now and don't really have major regrets. The filter will stop up over time but I seem to be able to go about a year as long as I don't use the dual drum sander much. If I'm running a set of doors in that, I'm just prepared to clean the filter out after the run because that thing just is heck on the filter. If I were buying today - Clearview just seems to have the most capable and efficient design plus it's a true 5HP cyclone for the price of a 3HP Grizzly pretty much. I was afraid of the plastic body when I bought my Grizzly but that just hasn't seemed to have been an issue over time like I though it might. I've seen one in person and will tell you the performance is a little better than my Grizzly and I actually think it might be just slightly quieter. I don't know if it would solve my problem with the drum sander completely but I think it would do a better job on that as well. Not like I'm trading in my Grizzly for one because it's very close in performance but I do give the edge to CV.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Justin, welcome to the world of dust collection.

The Festool vacuum is a great vacuum however it only has about 1/8 of the required airflow for dust extraction from a tablesaw.

For your saw you'll need about 500CFM for the cabinet and 200 to 300 CFM for the above blade collection.

I would narrow the choices down to the Clearvue and the Oneida.

The 5HP motor is no advantage as the cyclone is only capable of using 2 to 3 HP and a steel impeller isn't an advantage in a 2 stage design.

Many people like the Clearvue, I happen to have an Oneida cyclone for the last 13 years and am very happy with it.

I don't think you would go wrong with either choice..............Regards, Rod.

[Phil Thien]

I own the 3HP Grizzly G0441 model. I've had it about 10 years now and don't really have major regrets. The filter will stop up over time but I seem to be able to go about a year as long as I don't use the dual drum sander much. If I'm running a set of doors in that, I'm just prepared to clean the filter out after the run because that thing just is heck on the filter. If I were buying today - Clearview just seems to have the most capable and efficient design plus it's a true 5HP cyclone for the price of a 3HP Grizzly pretty much. I was afraid of the plastic body when I bought my Grizzly but that just hasn't seemed to have been an issue over time like I though it might. I've seen one in person and will tell you the performance is a little better than my Grizzly and I actually think it might be just slightly quieter. I don't know if it would solve my problem with the drum sander completely but I think it would do a better job on that as well. Not like I'm trading in my Grizzly for one because it's very close in performance but I do give the edge to CV.

IMHO, drum/belt sanders will clog the filters of any of the separators mentioned rather quickly, and any design differences I've seen from one to another would account for very small differences in separation rates.

[Matt Krusen]

A friend of mine just set up a ClearVue system and I have been extremely impressed with it. Though I've heard great things about the Oneida as well. Probably comes down to personal preference.

[Andrew Ulsher]

I'm having a similar dilemma of the ClearVue, Oneida, or Grizzly.

I don't think the ClearVue is an entire system at the $1,695 price point. I believe (and don't quote me) you need to build a filter clean out box, make brackets/stand, provide can, and it does not come with a remote/electrical box. So might want to look at the bundle kit at $2,040 + shipping.

Oneida seems to quote $395 worth of shipping charges with the larger portable/fixed units which I have a hard time believing.

Curious to see what you choose and any additional feedback others provide.

Grizzly units seem great minus the cost as you approach the 3-5 HP units.

Too bad there isn't a better source for Apples to apples comparison

[Jim German]

I don't think the ClearVue is an entire system at the $1,695 price point. I believe (and don't quote me) you need to build a filter clean out box, make brackets/stand, provide can, and it does not come with a remote/electrical box. So might want to look at the bundle kit at $2,040 + shipping.

The Cleanout box, brackets, and can can easily be made/bought for less than $50. The electrical box can be bought for $250 from clearvue, but it can also be made for about $100 if you are comfortable with doing it. The electrical box includes a relay that allows for a switch to be wired remotely, which is a nice feature.

[Andrew Ulsher]

The Cleanout box, brackets, and can can easily be made/bought for less than $50. The electrical box can be bought for $250 from clearvue, but it can also be made for about $100 if you are comfortable with doing it. The electrical box includes a relay that allows for a switch to be wired remotely, which is a nice feature.

Thank you! I've been trying to find posts and comments the cost of components to complete the system. In your opinion, is it worth getting the electrical box with the remote from ClearVue?

[Justin Pfenning]

Thanks to everyone that has replied. It seems (as usual) there is no free lunch, you get what you pay for. Looks like I will be saving my pennies for a Clear Vue or Oneida.

[Jim Dwight]

This may be inconsistent with what you want to do but have you considered adding an Oneida Super Dust Deputy to a fairly small 1.5-2hp DC? It may not be your permanent solution but would work and not be terribly expensive. I use a dust deputy on my shop vacuum and have been impressed with the amount of even very fine dust it removes. Cheapest DC I know of is the HF for around $200. Combine that with a cartridge filter for around $150 and the Super Dust Deputy for $170 and you'd have a fairly capable system. But when you add it all up, you'd also be spending $500-600. I think it would handle your machines one at a time. You'd have some work to do setting it up on a mobile cart or something.

[David Delo]

Justin,

Was going to chime in on this angle but Jim beat me to it. I wanted to go the dedicated 3hp or 5hp cyclone route but was limited with ceiling height issues. So I went with 2 single stage units and added filters & Super Dust Deputy's. It's worked out well and am very satisfied with performance.

First one is the famous HF unit with the Wynn filter + SDD that's dedicated to the lathe & small bandsaw.
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The second unit is a 2HP Grizzly + steel SDD + bigger can that does the TS, RT, Big BS, jointer & planer. I like Griz suction power better than the HF and would prefer to run that for the lathe but I need to run another 220 line to that end of the shop first. Just my 2 cents worth.
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[Jim Andrew]

You can get by with a smaller system, but you will want to sell it and get the bigger cyclone system. Bite the bullet and buy the best system the first time. Looking at my Grizzly catalog, their G0441is 1545$ plus 99$ shipping, stand is 275 plus 79 shipping, appears to come with magnetic switch with remote control. The summer sale catalog has a G0441 with hepa filter system, with stand for 2150 and 99 shipping.

[Paul Wunder]

I am not an electrician nor do I read schematics, but..........

I assembled my own ClearView electrical box using the wire by wire drawings that were available in the ClearView forums and also somewhere on this forum. key components were the relay $30, box $10, some wire ?, and a remote. The remote by Carlon is about $20 on Amazon. I have been using the same remote for almost 5 years without issues.

One other thought: By the time you add the cost of ductwork to the price of a central cyclone (whichever brand) the "total cost" differences between the Oneida and the Clearview and Grizzly will narrow. The Clearvue has the most filtration area and is much easier to install (weight-wise) than the others. I built my own simple cleanout box.

I would not recommend anything less than 3 HP.

[Art Mann]

Before deciding between Oneida, Grizzly, Clearvue and others, I recommend you read the comparison done by Wood magazine.

[Justin Pfenning]

Before deciding between Oneida, Grizzly, Clearvue and others, I recommend you read the comparison done by Wood magazine.

Do you have a link to that comparison?

[eric burns]

Justin,
I was in the same boat as you a couple years ago. I researched this for a couple months, created an excel spread sheet comparing everything even down to how much they all weigh. I finally decided to get the Oneida V3000 steel body version. My reasoning; 1) The amount of positive reviews, 2) To upgrade from the V2000 was probably $100, 3) It is made in the USA, 4) Their customer service is outstanding, and 5) I could go and pick everything up and save on shipping.

I'm glad I went with the larger unit but I wish I would've bought the remote at the same time but I can add that on at anytime.

Just my two cents, hope it helps a little.

[Justin Pfenning]

Thanks for the input. I'm leaning toward the Oneida.

Justin

[Kenneth Walton]

I have a 3hp oneida and I love it. I came from a HF unit with a super dust deputy. I also looked at Clearvue, but the noise level is something akin to a jet taking off (I'm in a basement shop), while I register about 81dB with my oneida at 10 feet. Important if you're in a basement shop, not so much if you're in a standalone workshop. Also I didn't like the idea of having to build a bunch of stuff to make the Clearvue work - just wanted to waste a single day on set up and that's it.

[Peter Aeschliman]

The 5HP motor is no advantage as the cyclone is only capable of using 2 to 3 HP

Interesting- I haven't heard this before. Do you mind elaborating or sharing a good link for me to learn more? Why does Pentz recommend 5HP? Perhaps because a 5HP motor is better when filters are getting closer to needing a cleaning?

I have a 3HP motor that I've been using with an ebay Cyclone, but I always believed this was a compromise. So I've been expecting to upgrade at some point.

[Steve Peterson]

Interesting- I haven't heard this before. Do you mind elaborating or sharing a good link for me to learn more? Why does Pentz recommend 5HP? Perhaps because a 5HP motor is better when filters are getting closer to needing a cleaning?

I have a 3HP motor that I've been using with an ebay Cyclone, but I always believed this was a compromise. So I've been expecting to upgrade at some point.

I have heard that the original CV design would have specified a 3.5HP motor. They found a good price for 5HP motors, so it makes sense to use a larger motor. Maybe the 12" HF blower is only capable of using a 2-3HP motor.

Peter, the largest motor is actually needed when your filters are clean and all the blast gates are open. This is when the most air is moving, requiring the most motor power.

Steve

[David Kumm]

Generally if running a 15" impeller, you need 4-5 hp. A 3 hp can work but only if you are running undersized pipe and fittings to reduce the cfm. A 15" or 16" impeller will benefit from the extra hp if the pipe and ports are sized to maximize flow. There is some benefit to larger impellers when running 6" pipe as you get a little more cfm under pressure than with a smaller impeller although curved blade fans are less efficient under pressure. The whole system should be designed as a whole. Impeller matched to hp, to pipe size, and to filter area. Filter area matched to cfm, cyclone diameter matched to input velocity. If you have the amperage available, the extra cost of the larger motor and impeller is far less than finding out that what you built doesn't quite work right when you put your biggest machine at the end of the run. Dave

[Susumu Mori]

Justin,

Does ClearVue come with a HEPA filter?
I moved up with a single stage. So, I don't know if it is due to the cyclone design or HEPA, but the quality of the air my Oneida produces is amazingly clean. Also mine is a portable model, which was very handy until it found a place to settle.

[Jim Andrew]

When I read on Bill Pentz site, he said he went with 5 hp, because the 3hp was overamping, and since the motor only uses the amount of power it needs to power the load, went with the 5 hp motor. Way I took his explanation, was that 3 1/2hp would have done it.

[David Kumm]

When I read on Bill Pentz site, he said he went with 5 hp, because the 3hp was overamping, and since the motor only uses the amount of power it needs to power the load, went with the 5 hp motor. Way I took his explanation, was that 3 1/2hp would have done it.

i think Jim is correct. The 15" impeller with 6" mains was slightly more than a 3 hp could handle. If you increase the mains to 7 or 8", you need closer to 5 hp when enough gates are open. Dave

[Henry Kramer]

I am in the same boat too. I have been using a Jet DC 650 with a Super Dust Deputy but need to upgrade. Where I need to locate the D/C, I am a little limited in height. I have been considering the Oneida portable 3hp Dust Gorilla or the Grizzly 3hp G0562ZP. The Grizzly has a much larger CFM capacity at $1000 less. Am I on the right track here? The Oneida has a US made motor and a HEPA filter which is a plus. I will be using this collector on a 12" PM 100, PM66 T/S, Powermatic PJ 882 8" Jointer, DeWalt 9" RAS, Delta 31-730 12 (tel:31-730 12)" Disk/6 x 48 belt sander and a Delta 1460 Lathe, but of course it's just myself so only one machine at a time.

[John K Jordan]

I installed a ClearVue CV1800 with the 5 hp motor. I ran 6" S&D pvc for ducts in the ceiling in my new shop. I decided on this system after a lot of research, including studying the articles by Bill Pentz.

The thing is amazing. I really liked being able to see what was going on in the cyclone while setting up and testing the unit.

The thing is incredibly loud, of course, so I built it and my big air compressor into a 4'x8' closet insulated with staggered-stud 6" walls and a 5' wide double door for access. Since the shop has heat and air conditioning (hey, I'm elderly and feeble!), I built a baffled filtered air return that comes through the ceiling. I use a heavy-gauge 30 gal galvanized trash can for the bin. The closet access doors open into another area in the building (my vehicle maintenance and metal shop), further reducing the noise in the wood shop area. The sound level is quite acceptable now, somewhere in the mid 60 DBs. There is more noise from the air at the tools than from the cyclone!

The installation was not at all difficult, except for running the 6" ducts through the roof trusses - THAT took some planning. However I had it all planned out as I designed the building so everything worked out well. I have five 6" drops. The longest run is about 45'. I don't have my lathes and jointer hooked up yet but it really sucks the dust out of my big bandsaw, drum sander, and table saw. It separates and filters well -the proof is in the particle air monitor. My drum is nearly ready to empty for the first time and there is still no visible dust in the filter cleanout box.

I put all 220v wiring and contactor in the closet but ran all controls, including a remote cutoff switch, pilot light, wireless remote receiver, and McRabbet bin sensor electronics and alarms in the main shop. This required some wiring mods and some creative packaging. (Pictures attached are the custom box I mounted on the shop wall.) The most current I've seen it draw was about 14 amps.

BTW, I also ran all the air compressor controls, valves, filters and regulator out of the closet into the main shop area - I can highly recommend doing that as well.

I can recommend the CV1800 and would not hesitate to buy it again if needed.

JKJ

[Jim German]

Justin,

Does ClearVue come with a HEPA filter?
I moved up with a single stage. So, I don't know if it is due to the cyclone design or HEPA, but the quality of the air my Oneida produces is amazingly clean. Also mine is a portable model, which was very handy until it found a place to settle.

The ClearVue comes with a MERV 15 filter, the Oneida a MERV 16. Oneida doesn't actually claim that the filter is HEPA, only that it uses HEPA media.

Oddly, ClearVue / Wynn 's claim of 99.999% @0.5micron and Oneida's claim of 99.97% @0.3micron both would give a higher MERV rating than they claim based on a typical filter curve.

[ian maybury]

There's been mutterings about the Clear Vue being somehow less complete than some of the ready made units. I run one self built from Bill P's plans, so there could be differences i'm not aware of.

The essential issue is perhaps that the CV is basically a DIY kit with origins in the self build plan (still available on BIll P's website), while some of the alternatives are designed as turnkey plug and play units.

It depends a bit on how you specify the systems, but in principle the payback with the CV has tended to be the generously specified hardware - and more flexibility on how you install it. As in a 5hp good quality motor that can handle larger dia/lower resistance duct systems (and won't overload if accidentally run with no ducting connected), extra filter area and spec, a taller/less squat cyclone with claimed better performance on fine dust, a higher pressure and volume capable 16in impeller and so on. While it'll still do a bit better on restrictive systems (due to its very good pressure capability) it's specified to really hum on an optimised/larger bore/more free flowing rather than a typical ducting and hood set up. The 3HP commercial systems tend to have impellers and restrictions built in to reduce the power requirement a bit - but the CV pulls 4HP or a shade more on a reasonably free flowing 6in system and will pull more and move more air with larger ducting and free flowing hoods.

It's all a bit moot of course if it's hooked up to a highly restrictive ducting installation that chokes the flow anyway - to get all of the benefit it's generally necessary to have a well designed ducting install and probably to rework machine hoods too. The lower HP on some of the commercial units surfaces in the form of recommendations for smaller dia ducting and drops on occasion too. (reduced airflow/CFM = reduced amps draw and fan HP required)

The essential issue is that while the specs issued by some authorities are written much lower (4 - 500CFM) you need something around 1,000CFM in real world conditions to do a really decent dust collection job at most machines. The objective is to move air over a large enough volume towards the collection point so that a fume hood effect is created in addition to simply collecting the chips. i.e. floating/ambient dust tends to be drawn in too.

It's a bit like the difference between a bespoke/made to order by a tailor suit and an expensive off the peg. You tend to get top quality material in the bespoke, get to call the spec and pay more for the more highly skilled labour required. The off the peg will tick all the boxes on some perception of de rigeur style, but since there's one or even two extra mark ups more in the chain and the labour is factory you can be pretty sure that (presuming similar cost for a fancy brand) that the money goes to the mark ups rather than into material and more highly skilled labour. The material in the off the peg is for example inevitably specified with an eye to maximising profit while ticking the relevant box - and ends up crumpled and tired looking in a year or two. Get a bum tailor of course/hook your CV up to a ducting and machine installation that doesn't take advantage of the potential and it's of no advantage - but get a good guy and you get a suit that fits like a glove and still looks good 20 years later.

The noise is a very moveable feast. Firstly some of the commercial units tend to run impellers with a lot of backward curve on the blades. This is a bit quieter, and draws less HP/amps at the high end - but at the price of reduced performance/capability at the higher end of the pressure and flow range. (which loss of pressure capability matters on the restrictive machine hoods many of us run) The other angle is that in my experience (with both my CV installation and in a wider industrial context) is that a very large part of the noise often results from vibration being transmitted into surrounding structures, and from turbulence in the fan exhaust.

Soft mounting the bracket that suspends the fan (which has its own soft mounting - meaning that two soft mounts work in series - this if tuned correctly makes possible the vibe cancelling set up used on tumble dryers) can greatly drop the noise level. It's also worthwhile to fit an exhaust silencer - the cylindrical variety sold for use in HVAC installations. The final step on noise reduction if it's possible/your system is very free flowing (it'll knock the high pressure end of the curve down a bit) is to run a 230V 3 phase motor and VFD - which gives the possibility of dropping the RPM just a shade and has significant effects too.

Bottom line is that the noise level increases fairly rapidly with the extra CFM and pressure capability needed to do a really good dust collection job - you to some extent pays your money and takes your pick. It can however as above often be sorted during the install.

One aspect to be very careful of during assembly/if fitting a silencer or whatever on any system is that IT'S REALLY IMPORTANT TO ENSURE TIGHT JOINTS ON ALL OF THE JOINTS DOWNSTREAM OF THE FAN EXHAUST - THEY ARE ALL UNDER POSITIVE PRESSURE AND WILL LEAK FINE DUST IF NOT TIGHTLY SEALED… Plus of course if running a big sander producing a lot of dust: all single stage cyclones commonly used in dust systems struggle to separate the very fine dust, so filter life is likely to suffer due to fine dust carry over unless the install permits exhausting outside when permitted by the weather and needed. The Pentz however claims to be better than most in this regard - the payback for the slightly less convenient taller cyclone install.

[Rod Sheridan]

[QUOTE=Peter Aeschliman;2411529]Interesting- I haven't heard this before. Do you mind elaborating or sharing a good link for me to learn more? Why does Pentz recommend 5HP? Perhaps because a 5HP motor is better when filters are getting closer to needing a cleaning?

I have a 3HP motor that I've been using with an ebay Cyclone, but I always believed this was a compromise. So I've been expecting to upgrade at some point.[/QUOTE

I can't remember where I read it, however a 5 hp motor was chosen instead of one slightly larger than 3 HP.

The cyclone, fan, and filter assembly and duct work determine the maximum air flow, increasing motor size doesn't do anything once you meet the required motor power.

As the filter gets plugged air flow will drop, along with motor power requirements.

You could stick a 25 HP motor on the cyclone and it wouldn't have any greater airflow than with a 3 HP motor.

Regards, Rod.

[Phil Thien]

The cyclone, fan, and filter assembly and duct work determine the maximum air flow, increasing motor size doesn't do anything once you meet the required motor power.

As the filter gets plugged air flow will drop, along with motor power requirements.

You could stick a 25 HP motor on the cyclone and it wouldn't have any greater airflow than with a 3 HP motor.

Regards, Rod.

Provided motor RPM is a constant. With 25 HP maybe you could spin that blower a little faster.

Did I ever tell you guys about the time I was experimenting with blowers and had a thin piece of wood on the bench get sucked up to a 4" PVC pipe and act like a reed on a wind instrument? Loudest thing I'd ever heard, I'm lucky I was wearing ear protection. It actually hurt my ears WITH the ear protection on.

Neighbors literally came out of their houses and looked around for what had caused the sound. I emerged from the basement and one neighbor asked, "did you hear that? What was that?" I answered "sounded like a locomotive horn right outside, didn't it?" Note that my answer didn't deny my involvement. I'm half honest, at least.

My wife was across the street talking with a friend and when she saw me she shook her head. She knows me too well.

Okay so maybe I was placing thin strips of wood over a piece of PVC connected to a hopped-up blower, to see what would happen.

Fine maybe I knew what would happen.

Whatever, I gave people something to talk about. I injected a moment of excitement into otherwise dull lives.

It was one of those Harbor Freight red blowers that I had connected to a 220V (Euro) universal motor with a variable speed control.

It got kinda funny because another neighbor asked if I thought we should report the noise.

"To who, I asked? "Calm down," I told him. I was sort of concerned I would have to explain my involvement to the police, but I derailed that.

One of my kids was a block and a half away, INSIDE the CVS pharmacy, and heard it and said everyone in the store heard it, it was quite loud she said. She used to love the coconut story but said this one is better because she experienced it herself.

[Jim German]

Okay so maybe I was placing thin strips of wood over a piece of PVC connected to a hopped-up blower, to see what would happen.

Fine maybe I knew what would happen.

Post of the year right there.

[Peter Aeschliman]

Post of the year right there.

x2

I'm still giggling. You're a funny dude, Phil. haha

Rod, thanks for the reply. The concept of motor load decreasing when blast gates are closed and filters are clogged has always been counter-intuitive to me.

[ian maybury]

Pardon my bouncing in on this. The flip side of the CFM/HP issue on fans is that if you have a 3HP motor it establishes an upper limit on the CFM you can deliver without overloading the motor. Since it probably entails a smaller diameter impeller it likely means reduced pressure capability too.

As already it doesn't matter a whole heap if your ducting and machine hood combination is restrictive. A bigger/larger diameter impeller will all else being equal give slightly better pressure and hence somewhat better flow on a restrictive system, but in the end a bigger motor and impeller combo will really only deliver significantly more flow if the ductwork and machine hoods are of large enough bore/low enough resistance to enable this.

Hook your 3HP to such a ducting set up/system though and it'll either not deliver any benefit (the impeller will already have been maxed out), or if not too small (if in the previous install the HP/amps draw was being artificially held down by flow resistance in the ductwork) it'll step up the curve and overload the motor trying to deliver the extra CFM….