Need a new saw blade

[Tim Compton]

I am in need of a new blade. I am looking at a combination blade. I already have a glue line rip blade. I know that a forest woodworker is the best. But I am not willing to spend the money for one. I have been looking at a Freud LU72R010 or Premier Fusion. What is the good or bad about these blades. There might be other choices out there, that I have not found. I have a Grizzly GO691 saw. Any suggestions or comments will be helpful.

[Jerry Thompson]

I got a blade from Carbide Processers. It was a 12'' miter saw blade but it is a dandy. I don't know about prices but I will buy from them again if the need arises.

[William C Rogers]

I also ordered a combination and rip from carbide processor. I have only used the rip at this point and it is nice. I don't know about longevity or how the combination will perform, but it has more carbide than the Forrest visually looking at it.

[ken masoumi]

Doing a google search I can not find LU72R10, I found LU72MO10 and LU83RO10.

[Tim Compton]

It is the LU72R010 or LU72M010. I missed typed the model number. The Fusion is the P410.

[John TenEyck]

The Freud LU72R010 is a 24 tooth ripping blade; not sure why you would want that. The Premium Fusion is a 40 tooth HiATB combo blade, and would be a good choice. Personally, I find combo blades like all season tires - sorta OK at everything but not truly good at anything. If you have a glue line rip blade already I would consider the Freud LU80R010 blade for crosscut work. Beautifully smooth for plywood, Melamine, and solid wood up to about 6/4.

John

[Tim Compton]

I have checked Freud web site twice the Lu72R010 and the LU72M010 are listed as combination blades.

[Matt Day]

Aren't Carbide Processor blades in the $100+ category? If so, they don't exactly fit the OP's requirements.
I've been happy with my Freud blades, and my Forrest blades.

[Jim Becker]

Tim, one thing to consider is that while a premium blade may cost a little more at initial purchase, many of them, including the Forrest, have better and thicker carbide that can be resharpened more times than the lower priced blades. Along those lines, it's a good idea to consider "total cost of ownership" rather than just the initial cost...the better blade may cost you a bit less over time. By example, I have two Forrest WW-II 40 blades...they each have been sharpened 4-5 times so far...since I bought them in the early 2000s. If I do the math, my cost per year is pretty darn attractive! (and so are the cuts)

[Jerry Wright]

May be heresy on this site, but go to Lowes and spend $37.99 on a Marples 50 tooth combination. Try it. Not saying it is a WWII, but for the price you can't beat it.

[Jim Dwight]

I've been pretty happy with my Oshlun blades so far. I plan to try one on my track saw. I've never been sorry I bought a Freud, however. I like the 50 tooth with 10 sets of 4 ATB plus a raker.

[Terry Haynes]

Check out Infinity Blades. I agree with Jim Becker's statement. Upfront cost is higher but you have a blade that last 10 times longer.

[Bob Betker]

Tim: I've been using an Infinity Combomax on a Craftsman 22124 and am very happy with the cuts. The price is very reasonable and the folks at Infinity are great to work with.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Check out the Delta 7657 from Cripe Distributing. Last time I checked, they were only $18, plus $10 for shipping. Multiples ship cheaper per unit. This is my every day use blade, even though I own two WWII"s. One of the WWII's has never been on saw, and other only a couple times. I own several of the 7657's. One day I may send the one on my saw in for sharpening.

[Ole Anderson]

I have had my Freud blades resharpened many times and it looks like they still have a lot of meat left. Same with my go-to 13 year old Oldham Woodworking Wizard combo blade I got at a WW show in Detroit.

[Phillip Gregory]

May be heresy on this site, but go to Lowes and spend $37.99 on a Marples 50 tooth combination. Try it. Not saying it is a WWII, but for the price you can't beat it.

I have just about the exact saw the OP does and the blade you mention. I wouldn't recommend using any 10" blade you would find at Lowes on a G0690/G0691 cabinet saw as all of the 10" blades at Lowes are thin kerf blades and the riving knife is just a hair too thick to work properly with thin kerf blades. You need a full kerf blade or a thin kerf riving knife. The 50T Marples blade however works very well with a suitable riving knife as it cuts well and leaves a nice finish. Its finish is not quite as nice as the Freud 80T Ultimate Cutoff blade somebody else mentioned and I also have, but it is very good for a "cheap" blade and will do about 90% of what you do with your tablesaw that doesn't require a dado blade. The 80T blade is actually a lot less useful than I had initially figured as it is really only good for crosscutting <6/4 stuff. I'd rather have sunk my money into one of the Premier Fusion combination blades than the 80T Ultimate Cutoff as it would have been much more useful.

[Cary Falk]

I use the the Delta/Dewalt 7657 as my daily driver. Ihave a stack of them because they were so cheap. I also have a WWII and a CMT.I don't notice enough differencebetween them.

[ken masoumi]

I have 2 thin kerf Diablo D1050 X combination blades, they are alright, but they flex a lot, the best combination blade I have ever used is Infinity 010-050(.125" kerf) (http://www.infinitytools.com/10-Combination-Saw-Blade-50T-5_8-Arbor-125-Kerf/productinfo/010-050/).by far the best cut you could expect from a combination blade under $80.

[Mike Nguyen]

I have a Ridge Carbide TS2000 on my Sawstop. You can get it from Holbren for about 90 bucks - 10% SMC I think. It's very good an comparable to the Forrest WWII.

[Michelle Rich]

I have been using Freud thin kerf combo for many years..they cost under $60.00 and I get very good service from them. They can handle quite a few sharpenings. Good value for the $$$

[Lee Schierer]

Tim, since you have a dedicated ripping blade, why not go with a dedicated cross cut blade. I think you would like the Freud LU82M. Currently about $40 at Amazon. I have one and it is a good cutting blade. I get excellent cross cuts in poplar, oak, maple and cherry. You can do some rip cuts in thinner stock if you want, though cutting is slower than you'll get with the glue line rip blade.

[scott spencer]

The LU72 is a heavy duty full kerf 40T commercial duty blade. The LM72 is the 24T full kerf bulk rip blade.

The 50T ATB/R Infinity Combomax 010-050 is an easy blade to get good results with that runs ~ $70. It's the best of the 50T ATB/R blades I've tried. It'll give many of those $100 blades a run for the money, and is less sensitive about setup and less prone to burning.

The Delta 35-7657 that Bruce mentioned from Cripe Distributing is about the best bang for the buck going in a full kerf combo blade. It's clearance priced, is made in the US, high precision, C4 micrograin carbide and runs ~ $30 shipped.

[Tom Walz]

Carbide Processors sells several Lines of blades.
Oshlun starts about $35.00 and is a good buy for the price.
Popular Tools is $63.00
Tenryu is $94.00
Our World's Best, custom built blade, is about $110.00

Plus a 10% discount if you enter "creekers" as the discount code at checkout.

We also have a 100% satisfaction guarantee.






http://www.carbideprocessors.com/search.php?search_query=combination+AND+blADE&x=10&y=10

[Wade Lippman]

Carbide Processors sells several Lines of blades.
Oshlun starts about $35.00 and is a good buy for the price.
Popular Tools is $63.00
Tenryu is $94.00
Our World's Best, custom built blade, is about $110.00


Are the 10" blades 250mm or 254mm?

[Art Mann]

In recent comparison teasts done by several magazines, the Forrest blades didn't perform any better than the Freud Premier Fusion. I bought one of those for around $100 and I think I got my money's worth.

[Jim Andrew]

I bought Tenryu blades from Carbide Processors, to fit my Hammer tablesaw, got a rip blade, a 80 tooth solid wood crosscut blade, and a plywood blade. Don't need to use the scoring blade cutting ply, and the solid crosscut blade is the nicest blade I have ever used. Also the rip blade is awesome. Check the price difference with Forrest, think they are every bit as good.

[Justin Ludwig]

I use Freud's combo Diablo on my job site bosch TS. It works great for my application (on job sites). Even crosscutting plies come off with little fuzz.

[BOB OLINGER]

Just bought a Freud 10" combo for my Sawstop last Saturday as I was tired of changing from rip to crosscut on general work. Limited use so far, but so far, very satisfied.

[Justin Ludwig]

Carbide Processors sells several Lines of blades.
Oshlun starts about $35.00 and is a good buy for the price.
Popular Tools is $63.00
Tenryu is $94.00
Our World's Best, custom built blade, is about $110.00

Plus a 10% discount if you enter "creekers" as the discount code at checkout.

We also have a 100% satisfaction guarantee.






http://www.carbideprocessors.com/search.php?search_query=combination+AND+blADE&x=10&y=10

I use Tom's World's Best for the shop. They are worth every penny.

[Tim Compton]

I ordered a Delta 7657. This was not my first choice, but the Infinity Combo max was not in stock. I looked at all the choices and the Infinity was the best fit for me.

[Peter Quinn]

I have a Ridge Carbide TS2000 on my Sawstop. You can get it from Holbren for about 90 bucks - 10% SMC I think. It's very good an comparable to the Forrest WWII.

1+++ I bought one at a show a few years back, real nice guy selling them, complete impulse purchase near the end of the show, price was fairly low, I'm thinking just north of $70 IIR? Anyway, its every bit as good as my 40TH WWII blade, I bought it as a fill in when the forrest is out for sharpening, it spends more time on the saw than the forrest. Really cuts well. I hear good things about Infinity's combo blade too. Ive used an older freud combo at work, not to shabby for all around cutting, can't comment on the new Fusion line, but I can say Tim, if you want a WWII but don't want to spend $129, the Ridge TS2000 is at the same level of quality, not cheap but a fair savings over a Forrest.

[Tom Walz]

Mr. Lippman - 254 mm.

Mr. Ludwig,
Thank you for the kind remarks.

[glenn bradley]

Another Carbide Processors convert here. I have used a wide variety of quality blades but, none have paid for themselves like the CP blades. A $110 blade is not a $110 blade; I pay $110 for the blade. Then (after more hours of use than other blades including the WWII) I pay around $30 to have it sharpened as good as new . . . Now subtract the $110 I just DIDN'T spend for a new blade and then do that 5 or 6 times . . . you get the picture. Do the math. I have 5 blades types that I use most frequently, they are now all CP blades.

[Brent Ring]

Tim, one thing to consider is that while a premium blade may cost a little more at initial purchase, many of them, including the Forrest, have better and thicker carbide that can be resharpened more times than the lower priced blades. Along those lines, it's a good idea to consider "total cost of ownership" rather than just the initial cost...the better blade may cost you a bit less over time. By example, I have two Forrest WW-II 40 blades...they each have been sharpened 4-5 times so far...since I bought them in the early 2000s. If I do the math, my cost per year is pretty darn attractive! (and so are the cuts)

Tim, IMHO Jim nails it right here. The overall cost of ownership of a premium blade is worth it. I bought my slider 3 years ago and bought a Forrest WW-II with it. Only had to sharpen once in those three years. Still get jointer quality cuts as long as I keep it clean. I only own 3 blades total for my TS. A Freud GLu-line rip blade, my Forrest, and a junker that I use for anything other than furniture projects. Love my Forrest. :)

[scott spencer]

No argument that having a really good blade makes a difference and is worth some extra money. Getting a good blade is a more important objective than getting an expensive blade....spending more just gives you a better shot at achieving that goal. It's not essential to spend > $100 to get there. Forrest, Infinity, Ridge Carbide, Tenryu Gold Medal, Freud Fusion (and others), are really pretty comparable in the size and quality of the carbide and manufacturing process. It's not hard to find a $60-$80 blade that will get you all of the benefits of a $125 blade if you're selective. In this case, Tim opted for a really good American made blade for $30 that should easily get him > 95% of the benefits of a $125 blade (some would argue 100%) ....granted that's a clearance price, but they're out there.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/hewood/Saw%20Blades/Picture1_zpsqxqv8kgo.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/hewood/Saw%20Blades/Picture2_zpsyvyga0rz.jpg

[Mark Blatter]

Has anyone used a Superior blade? I got a couple from a cabinet shop I used to work at and have loved them.

[Edward Oleen]

At least take a look at the Ridge Carbide Tool TS2000 blade. I've used one for years (since before they called it that) and see no need for another blade.