Buffing Wheels

[Edward Weingarden]

I want to get set up for buffing some of my turnings. The Beall system is about $80; I've looked at buying individual pads, but haven't found any that resemble the Bealls (wide and non-stitched). Will the more narrow, stitched buffing pads do the same job, or is the Beall set up the best choice? Thanks.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I tried looking for the "same" wheels, (the 3 are different). I've tried looking for the different compounds. You can find them after much searching. I've wasted monies buying wheels that aren't as good. Some are thin, and stacking 2 of them does not really work. Some are stitched, I tried unstitching them. I finally caved in and bougth the Beall system. So, bottom line you can save some money, but you need to know what you're looking for. I did not. If you want to save yourself some aggravation, just pay for the system. It comes with the "right" stuff that works, from the compounds to the fabric in the wheels. Oh, I found out the hard way, that some wheels are for metal, even if they made of the same material, they are STIFF and abrasive. They will burn through your finish in a snap. Some compounds are for metal, even though they are both "tripoli". Just my $0.02.

[Shawn Pachlhofer]

try looking at Caswell Plating for wheels.

[David Delo]

I tried looking for the "same" wheels, (the 3 are different). I've tried looking for the different compounds. You can find them after much searching. I've wasted monies buying wheels that aren't as good. Some are thin, and stacking 2 of them does not really work. Some are stitched, I tried unstitching them. I finally caved in and bougth the Beall system. So, bottom line you can save some money, but you need to know what you're looking for. I did not. If you want to save yourself some aggravation, just pay for the system. It comes with the "right" stuff that works, from the compounds to the fabric in the wheels. Oh, I found out the hard way, that some wheels are for metal, even if they made of the same material, they are STIFF and abrasive. They will burn through your finish in a snap. Some compounds are for metal, even though they are both "tripoli". Just my $0.02.

+1 on what Kyle said :)

The only decision with the Beall System is, single wheel set-up or all 3 mounted on a shaft at the same time.

[Wes Ramsey]

+1 on what Kyle said :)

The only decision with the Beall System is, single wheel set-up or all 3 mounted on a shaft at the same time.

I haven't used the 3-in-1 setup, but wheel changes are pretty quick and painless and they really do a nice job polishing Danish oil and lacquer finishes. The first pieces I tried to polish were poly, and it ate the finish off pretty quickly. I slowed my speed and have gotten more practice since so it would probably do a fine job polishing poly, but I haven't tried it again since. Apparently the recommended 1725 RPM is for DO finishes - lacquer, poly and the like should be done much slower. Also, for bowls and larger pieces I would recommend the 8" extension so you aren't bumping the freshly-polished piece into the headstock.

[Edward Weingarden]

Thanks for the feedback. Sounds like the Beall will be cost effective in the long-run.

[Mike Goetzke]

I'm not a very experienced turner yet but I bought the Beall wheel system and buffing balls at the same time. I also bought an adapter/extension made by Hold Fast that allows you to mount the buffing wheels on the spindle thread. Like others mentioned it is very easy to remove a wheel and put another one on.

Mike

[Thom Sturgill]

As Shawn said, Caswell plating carries the wheels, also woodcraft sells the compound, and the Hold Fast adapter (I have a similar one from Don Pencil, but he seems to be out of business) form a usable system. You need un-stitched cotton for the Tripoli and un-stitched flannel for the wax. The White Diamond wheel is mixed cotton and flannel, again un-stitched..

I have not bought from Caswell, but their site looks to carry the right wheels. Loose cotton wheel 8"x 1/2" (stack two) is $6.99 ea Domet Flannel is $4.99 for 8"x1/2". They would need a bolt, nut and two washers to fit the adapter. Not sure what you would use for White Diamond.

[Doug Ladendorf]

What Thom said and another vote for Caswell. You should be able to use the loose cotton for both tripoli and white diamond. Just don't use the same wheel for both. Each abrasive has its own wheel(s). Tripoli is typically used with the sewn wheel for metal so having a softer wheel for wood/finish will be better.

If you are inclined, Caswell has a nice primer on buffing on their site. I think it's linked on the right.

Doug

[Thomas Canfield]

When you get into using a buffing system, you will likely want to have different sizes of wheels and use a shaft adapter similar to the old Don Pencil shafts. Smaller wheels are needed to get inside smaller items, and smaller wheels work better for me than the 3 or 4" goblet ball buffs. I even use some 1" wheels (and some smaller pads) in a Dremel to buff inside the very little. I have the 8" long adapters for 1" and 1-1/4" and a 12" long x 1-1/4" all from Don Pencil, and the 12" really works well inside larger/deeper items.

[John K Jordan]

+1 on what Kyle said :)

The only decision with the Beall System is, single wheel set-up or all 3 mounted on a shaft at the same time.

I have another take on that and what I think is a better decision, at least for me. Soon after I bought the Beall (many moons ago) I bought a separate morse taper mount for each polishing wheel. This saves an incredible amount of time without the disadvantages of the triple-wheel shaft. I tried the shaft and found for me it limited my movement of the work around the wheel, especially with longer pieces.


JKJ

[Marvin Hasenak]

Everything I buy for buffing comes from Caswell Plating, the wheels and the compounds. My wax compound is homemade. The key to a good buffing system is the speed of the wheels and making sure your finish has cured, not just dry, but CURED.