Questions regarding Nailers

[Ken Kirkeby]

I have a couple projects coming up and I want to use a nailer. The first project is installing molding along te floor in my wife's craft room. The second is building some shelves for said craft room (3/4" Baltic).

My dad gave me a PC BN200A (18G) brad nailer. Can someone explain to me where and when you would use a brad nailer as opposed to a finish nailer like the PC FN250B (16G) or DA250B (15G)?

The 18G nails look to small for attaching molding (3/4" thick) but might be use in attaching/gluing dado joints.

Thanks

[Mike Vermeil]

Ken,

This is completely unscientific, but use the brad nailer for smallish, non-structural fastening, and the 15ga finish nailer for heavier moldings & structural items. For both of the cases you mentioned, I'd use the finish nailer. Brads are great for holding things in place while glue dries, or for attaching smaller, decorative moldings, but don't add a whole bunch of strength. 15ga finish nails, on the other hand, can be used to hang full-size doors.

[Tim Burke]

Ken,

I have that exact nailer, and is a very nice nailer. I first bought a Senco thinking that they were premium nailers, but it could not set a brad into solid oak, even when over the recommended pressure and with the rubber nose removed.

I returned it and got the PC, which countersinks nicely into oak, even at low pressures.

Anyway, I bought mine mainly with the goal of finish carpentry. With 2" brads, I can go through 1/2" trim, 1/2" drywall, and still get 1" into a stud. It does a very good job of this. The tiny hole left by the 18 gauge brad leaves little or nothing to fill as compared to a 15 or 16 gauge nailer.

You will not be able to use this to hang a door. You will definitely want the 15 or 16 gauge for that. If you are talking about attaching 3/4" molding to a furniture project, it will work well for that.

If you have never used a power nailer before, especially an 18 gauge, be very thoughtful about where you place your fingers when holding the wood while shooting. Smaller nails, and especially longer brads, can follow a crooked path and come out somewhere other than where you planned! The brads are so thin that they can follow the path of varying grain or hardness in the wood. If they bend, it is usually along the "flat" side of the brad, which is thinner than the width.

I have installed a lot of trim over the years. I wish I would have gotten one of these years ago. They add tremendous speed and accuracy to trim installation.

Tim

[John Hemenway]

I use them just like I'd use neander nails/brads. If you traditionally picked up a hammer and a finish nail (8d), then you need the finish nailer (15g or 16g). Same for those finger smashing brads!

Length is dependent on materials being nailed.

I do use brads for dado joints (among others) not so much for structural strength but as a clamp like device to hold the project together till the glue dries. In the 'Norm' tradition, 'Glue, Clamp, Brad, MOVE ON!' :)

[Ken Kirkeby]

Mea culpa ... I meant to say 3/4" base board, not molding.

[Steve Clardy]

Mea culpa ... I meant to say 3/4" base board, not molding.

Painted base I use 15 ga. Hardwood base I use 16 ga. Less of a hole to fill in nice wood.