Turning a pitcher - How do I fit the handle

[Brian Kent]

I just got a request for bowls and pitchers - symbolic so any size is ok.

I can picture the pitcher as a flared form with a slant on the top. I can't figure out how to manage the attachment of the handle to the body of the pitcher.

Any ideas?

[Thom Sturgill]

I recently watched a you-tube of someone making a handled drinking mug. Leave the walls a bit thick and cut shallow mortices for tenons on the handle. Maybe 1\8" deep.

[Brian Kent]

Thank you, Thom.

I also saw a photo of a pitcher with no handle. A slanted to took care of the "spout" and the narrow part of the vessel was wrapped with rope or twine.

[Thom Sturgill]

I have seen spouts that were carved, and some that were steam bent. the carving is done similar to carving a wavy top, just with only one wave.

[Hayes Rutherford]

I remember one turned by John Keeton out of burl with natural edge and a copper handle. Always was going try one but never have. There must be a picture somewhere.

[Brian Kent]

Here's a first try at a shape. I think the bottom should be a lot fatter and the spout a bit shorter. I think it might work to wrap with rope or sisal instead of a handle. I could also shape the top more. Please share opinions.

[charlie knighton]

you could make 5 or 6 more, tie them together, have a shell ??/ similar to what is found around pilings and bridges when the tide goes out.......muscles ?????

[Thom Sturgill]

Here's a first try at a shape. I think the bottom should be a lot fatter and the spout a bit shorter. I think it might work to wrap with rope or sisal instead of a handle. I could also shape the top more. Please share opinions.

I would agree on fatter and shorter spout. I do like the angled spout - much easier than what I was thinking. How about some beads to hold the rope or sisal in place and a turned and drilled handle held in place by the rope. As a scout leader we used to teach the boys to back braid a rope either to make an end that would not unravel or to make an eye in the end. Put the rope through a turned handle and braid eyes in both ends around the pitcher or simply wrap the ends with some heavy waxed cord to make the eyes. I would wrap the braids too.

[Brian Kent]

Thom, good idea on the rope. I used knotted rope to hold on the handles on mugs for Renaissance Faire.

I shortened the top and rounded off the bottom. It's closer to what I want. I was also thinking that instead of having a smooth joint to attach the handle, maybe I could use a contrasting color peg that sticks out 1/4".

[Brian Kent]

I have been working on the pitcher shape. The earliest is on the left, most recent on the right.

I would appreciate your ideas and critique.

Thanks, friends.

[Curtis Myers]

I prefer the form of the large pitcher on the right. The rope is a nice touch. Good job.

[Thom Sturgill]

My favorite is the second from the left. I love the shape of the spout, but would appreciate a larger bowl perhaps. The size of the last one looks better however, although that is hard to tell with nothing else to compare. The form IS better though.

[John Keeton]

Personally, I prefer a much more prominent bowl to the pitcher. Attached are a couple I have done if that helps any at all.

[Brian Kent]

John how did you attach those handles?

[Scott Brandstetter]

Brian, thanks for putting this in my head....lol. Now I have to try this as well. I really like the rope or sisal you used, very nice. John, what can I say, just beautiful. I don't think you could put a price on those. I too, would love to know how the handle was created (steamed?) and attached.

I am reminded how little talent I have when I see others work. It's not a bad thing though, it drives me to get better every day. All I need is for my darn lathe to get in and get delivered.

[John Keeton]

Scott, thanks for the comments. Both pieces were priced and sold. I really enjoy the design process and creation of my work, but I don't get attached to them. I am not a production turned, but nearly every piece I turn is intended to be placed in a gallery.

The handles are hammered copper. They are attached with epoxy by drilling two holes and using two pieces of copper nails cut from the head end. The small nail segments are notched to provide a key for the epoxy.

[Brian Kent]

The handles are hammered copper. They are attached with epoxy by drilling two holes and using two pieces of copper nails cut from the head end. The small nail segments are notched to provide a key for the epoxy.

I knew there was a reason I thought you were a genius, John. :)