Can you joint a 9 1/2" board on a 8" jointer"

[Chuck Hart]

I don't know if it could be done. Anybody ever joint a bigger piece on a smaller joiner? Logically it seems like it couldn't or shouldn't be done but you guys are so good at doing the impossible. Any ideas? :confused:

[Kent A Bathurst]

Chuck ---

Up in the top right of your screen - see that search box? :D :D

THis particular topic gets discussed almost as often as cutting hot dogs on a TS.

Just key in what ever is close - you'll get hits. Like, say, "jointing wide boards".

Short answer is - yes you can, but for some specific models of jointer, no you can't.

[Mike Schuch]

You could remove the blade guard and basicall joint an 8" rabbit leaving 1 1/2" of unjointed board. Then you would have to clean up that 1 1/2" of left over board and some how make it flat to the 8" surface. I guess it could be done but it doesn't really sound practical to me.

[Rob Duke]

You could remove the blade guard and basicall joint an 8" rabbit leaving 1 1/2" of unjointed board. Then you would have to clean up that 1 1/2" of left over board and some how make it flat to the 8" surface. I guess it could be done but it doesn't really sound practical to me.

That's what's done here

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c_R8mD5IKII

[Matt Day]

First, as Kent said, try the search box. I'd try something like "jointing wider than jointer". It's a Google powered engine and works well.

Second, do as Mike says. To remove the un-jointed 1.5", insert an 8" wide length of mdf and run it mdf side down through the planer to joint the 9.5" face. Flip and remove the 1.5". Tack a piece of scrap to theorist of the mdf so the planer doesn't pull the board off the mdf.

[Michael Moscicki]

Not an expert here, but joint the 8" flat. You will have to remove the blade guard to do so. Once the 8" section is flat, use a hand plane(maybe the neanders can chime in on the exact type) to flatten the remaining 1 1/2" section using the 8" section as a reference.

[Chuck Hart]

Chuck ---

Up in the top right of your screen - see that search box? :D :D

THis particular topic gets discussed almost as often as cutting hot dogs on a TS.

Just key in what ever is close - you'll get hits. Like, say, "jointing wide boards".

Short answer is - yes you can, but for some specific models of jointer, no you can't.

Kent I always try the search first before I go here. I guess I wasn't using the correct search terms. Did you get up on the wrong side of the bed today?

[Matt Day]

Kent was joking.

I searched "Jointing boards wider" and got lots of the same discussion. Make sure you search while viewing the full site. The mobile view search is pitiful.

[Peter Quinn]

I've done it plenty of times, couple of different ways. I make entry doors with 9 1/2" bottom rails, I have an 8" jointer in the home shop. I take off the fence, joint the first 8" flat treating it like a wide rabbit. From there it depends on how many. One? #5 jack plane, less than 1 minute in most cases, quicker than setting up almost anything else. If its a hand full, I use the TS to joint the last 1 1/2". I have a tall fence fixture for supporting things standing up. To this I attach a sacrificial fence about 1 5/8" off the table surface, my fence is 6/4 so I create a 1 1/2" off set. I raise the blade just a hair less than the bottom edge of the sacrificial fence and set the face of the sacrificial fence flush with the left side of the blade (fence is to the right of the blade as for a normal rip cut for a right handed person). Done. Push the board through holding it tight to the fence, the blade takes off the last 1 1/2", and the waste if any falls away between blade and fence as the sacrificial board creates an offset that allows the jointing action to reference the boards face you have already flattened. A picture tells a thousand words, unfortunately I don't have one, might find on in a search? Would also work on a router table or shaper quite effectively. Search "flush trimming fence", thats really more what the second operation is, you sort of treat the hump of unflattened wood as a wide edge band to flush trim.

Alternatively, I have just clamped a piece of 3/4" melamine to the bed of my planer, joint what you can, flip it over, let the last 1 1/2" hang off the melamine, plane the other side parallel, 8" is plenty of purchase on a thick board for the feed wheels to hold things down and not bend the board, then flip the board again and take a light pass to level that first face, works great if all the variables are correct i.e. planer is well set up, board is 3/4" or better to start, and you have a planer.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Kent I always try the search first before I go here. I guess I wasn't using the correct search terms. Did you get up on the wrong side of the bed today?

No. Notice I used the smiley face? Otherwise, I would have used the frowny face.

How about you? wearing our thin skin today, are we? ;)

Glad to help with suggested search terms to find info on "jointing boards wider than jointer":

https://www.google.com/search?sitesearch=www.sawmillcreek.org&q=jointing+boards+wider+than+jointer&submit.x=11&submit.y=12&gws_rd=ssl

[Chuck Hart]

No. Notice I used the smiley face? Otherwise, I would have used the frowny face.

How about you? wearing our thin skin today, are we? ;)

Glad to help with suggested search terms to find info on "jointing boards wider than jointer":

https://www.google.com/search?sitesearch=www.sawmillcreek.org&q=jointing+boards+wider+than+jointer&submit.x=11&submit.y=12&gws_rd=ssl

Thanks Kent. I do like a sarcastic sense of humor. Caught me the wrong way.

[Bruce Wrenn]

I've done 8+" boards using my 6" jointer, piece of MDF and planner. If your jointer doesn't have a rabbeting ledge, add (double stick tape) a piece of 1/8" - 1/4" hardboard to infeed table to create one. Add a tee guard attached to fence to cover blades. Don't forget to lower infeed table

[Kent A Bathurst]

Thanks Kent.

De nada.


I do like a sarcastic sense of humor.

I am definitely your guy, in that case. :p :p I often run with Harold, Malcolm, Dave Z, John C, and Myk.........just a heads up. :eek:


Caught me the wrong way.

Hey - Chuck - That's cool - it's all good. Did not take it wrong/personally....... just friendly banter. UNless/until you start trashing my Tigers, in which case we got a problem.

[Chuck Hart]

De nada.



I am definitely your guy, in that case. :p :p I often run with Harold, Malcolm, Dave Z, John C, and Myk.........just a heads up. :eek:



Hey - Chuck - That's cool - it's all good. Did not take it wrong/personally....... just friendly banter. UNless/until you start trashing my Tigers, in which case we got a problem.

Sorry your Tigers will be eating what's left from my Mariners ... First time we have had a contender in 13 years:rolleyes:

[Kent A Bathurst]

Sorry your Tigers will be eating what's left from my Mariners ... First time we have had a contender in 13 years:rolleyes:

It is on, brudda.........we shall see how it all plays out.

See you in the funny papers....... ;)

PS - 13 years..........Junior Who?

EDIT: BTW...... Two things:

1. THere is an Official 2105 MLB Thread in the Off-Topic forum....... Retitled by Bruce P Mod Squad. You should probably hang there on this topic.
2. Lemme get this straight - you are pumping the Mariners, right? The Western Div 4th-place 5-7 Mariners, right? We talking the same team? Not to mention the same league?

Bring the heat, dude. I'm ready for it.;)

[Frank Drew]

Tacking on support boards or hand planing what the jointer didn't catch aren't necessary, IMO: Remove the jointer guard; adjust the jointer fence so that you'll be face jointing just over half the width of the board and run that; then, keeping the same face down, pivot the board and face joint the other half of the board, keeping pressure over the cutterheads so that your board doesn't sag. Depending on how out-of-flat the board was to start with, you might have to do the jointing and pivoting a few times, but you'll end up with a face that isn't finish quality but is certainly flat enough that you can now run your board through the surface planer (face jointed face down, of course). Done this many, many times with fine, quick results.

[Chuck Hart]

It is on, brudda.........we shall see how it all plays out.

See you in the funny papers....... ;)

PS - 13 years..........Junior Who?

EDIT: BTW...... Two things:

1. THere is an Official 2105 MLB Thread in the Off-Topic forum....... Retitled by Bruce P Mod Squad. You should probably hang there on this topic.
2. Lemme get this straight - you are pumping the Mariners, right? The Western Div 4th-place 5-7 Mariners, right? We talking the same team? Not to mention the same league?

Bring the heat, dude. I'm ready for it.;)

Yea they came back from 10-5 deficit in the 8th to win last night. Cruz leads the league in HR's and is batting 500.

[Chuck Hart]

I followed the suggestions and got fine results. Thanks everybody

[Allan Speers]

How about this:

Joint as wide as you can.

then, flip the stock upside-down.

Now take a known flat & even board that same width that you previously jointed ( 7.5" ?) and place it underneath the main board, filling-in the just-jointed area.

Now just run that through your planer. :)

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I would think that as long as you don't go wider than 12" or so, there's no way the stock is going to tilt sideways, since your planer head is pretty stiff.

[Matt Day]

Allen, that's exactly what I said in post #5 yesterday! He said he got it to work.