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Keith Colson
04-20-2015, 6:17 AM
After reading Joel Matteson's thread on cutting fine stuff I thought it would be fun to see how our machines compare. If mine needs improvement I am always interested. I cut a small snow flake to see how it would work. Here is my baseline cut that you can try.

311861

The challenge is to cut it in 3mm acrylic in one pass. And then see if you can go much smaller. This was done on 2.0 lens. I tried one at half the size and had no plastic left so my machine probably can't do much smaller than this.The tips of the petals measured 250 to 320 microns.

And here is an image of my cut. Sorry about my poor old camera.
311862

Bert Kemp
04-20-2015, 1:45 PM
Yikes I have never done any acrylic with this machine and only tried it a couple times on the FSL. I'll have to go to BORG and get a small sheet of acyclic and see if I can do it. I have no idea were to even start for settings.:confused:


After reading Joel Matteson's thread on cutting fine stuff I thought it would be fun to see how our machines compare. If mine needs improvement I am always interested. I cut a small snow flake to see how it would work. Here is my baseline cut that you can try.

311861

The challenge is to cut it in 3mm acrylic in one pass. And then see if you can go much smaller. This was done on 2.0 lens. I tried one at half the size and had no plastic left so my machine probably can't do much smaller than this.The tips of the petals measured 250 to 320 microns.

And here is an image of my cut. Sorry about my poor old camera.
311862

Dave Sheldrake
04-20-2015, 3:13 PM
2 inch lens Bert, 15mm per second at 85% power will do it:)

Bert Kemp
04-20-2015, 3:27 PM
Thanks Dave I'll try that. but all I can get is cheap home depot acrylic no cast . But I'll try it anyway


2 inch lens Bert, 15mm per second at 85% power will do it:)

Kev Williams
04-20-2015, 3:57 PM
My computer says it's an HTM file and Corel (X4) won't open it

Scott Shepherd
04-20-2015, 4:02 PM
My computer says it's an HTM file and Corel (X4) won't open it

Save it and remove the .htm from it and it'll open. I don't know why the forum does that, but it does it on my systems too.

Guy Hilliard
04-20-2015, 7:17 PM
This measures 0.300" across the arms. Also done with a 2" lens.

Could do it a wee bit smaller but that would just be showing off. :rolleyes:

I also cut SMT stencils with the 2" lens, and that is small (for a CO2 laser) but I only keep the holes :)

And there is this other piece I cut previously... Also 3mm cast.

Bill George
04-20-2015, 7:48 PM
Save it and remove the .htm from it and it'll open. I don't know why the forum does that, but it does it on my systems too.

I just clicked on the link and the file opens in X6.

Just for the fun of it, I engraved my name on a hand held crossbow bolt, 6 mm in diameter, the font I used was so small I need a magnifying glass to read the engraved text. This was using my ULS machine.

Bert Kemp
04-20-2015, 7:54 PM
Guy did you use cast or extruded all I have is a piece of the cheap home depot stuff.

This measures 0.300" across the arms. Also done with a 2" lens.

Could do it a wee bit smaller but that would just be showing off. :rolleyes:

I also cut SMT stencils with the 2" lens, and that is small (for a CO2 laser) but I only keep the holes :)

And there is this other piece I cut previously... Also 3mm cast.

Guy Hilliard
04-20-2015, 7:57 PM
The material I used is cast acrylic.

Bert Kemp
04-20-2015, 8:02 PM
whats the secret to getting it out in one piece LOL i'VE BROKE A HALF DOZ NOW


The material I used is cast acrylic.

Guy Hilliard
04-20-2015, 8:11 PM
I only cut the one piece, nothing special to get it out - just pushed a bit with my finger.

If your pieces are breaking then you have one (or both) of two issues - the part is not entirely cut out or when it was cut it welded itself back together.
Figure out which is the case and fix it.

Bert Kemp
04-20-2015, 8:24 PM
the whole piece start to push out I can see its raised all the way around just cant get it out , the acrylic is very brittle

Kev Williams
04-20-2015, 9:55 PM
Save it and remove the .htm from it and it'll open. I don't know why the forum does that, but it does it on my systems too. I did, still wouldn't open. My x4 must be older than the saved job-

Keith Colson
04-20-2015, 9:56 PM
Wow Guy, that is a lot better than I can do. Are you doing anything special that would help me achieve the same results? Have you just scaled the drawing only? I have my machine very well focused already.

Cheers
Keith

Guy Hilliard
04-20-2015, 10:36 PM
Keith;

On the Speedy 400 (and the Universal X660 I had before that) I spent a good day or more getting the focus as close to perfect as I could (and resetting the focus tool) and reseting the alignment from "factory / install" good enough to as close to perfect as I can manage. Proper adjustment of the air assist is important in cutting things this fine. Not enough air and the part overheats, melts, re-welds or warps and is destroyed. Too much air and the cut looks rippled as the molten acrylic is being pushed out of smooth and frozen. And of course the power, speed, and PPI settings need to be properly adjusted to limit the amount of heat in the piece and to ensure a clean cut. Basically everything.

And it only took me 10 years to get here - with a bit of help from SMC and other sources.

Bert Kemp
04-20-2015, 11:04 PM
So basically me and my 6 month old rabbit are sc you know we just don't have the time or experience.

Guy Hilliard
04-20-2015, 11:42 PM
Bert;

I'm sure that your machine can achieve results very similar to what I am doing but you will need to spend some time and effort and burn lots of material experimenting to get there. A good place to start practicing would be the projects on the Trotec and Epilog sites. As you learn start doing larger and smaller, thicker and thinner parts. Try every material you can get your hands on (except PVC and a few other non-laser friendly materials). Where you learn the most is at the extremes. If something isn't working keep changing things (one at a time and keep notes) until it does. And read the archives here at SMC. There is a lot of information here that will put you years ahead of learning it from scratch by yourself. Additional information can be found on other laser forums, laser machine and tube manufacturing sites, and in blogs of other people that run lasers. It will not be quick or especially easy but very few things worth doing are.

Kev Williams
04-21-2015, 1:09 AM
Couldn't open the other snowflake so I made my own-- :)

Forgot to remove the masking- I was a little hot I think too, probably could've done it with about
3% less power---
311972311969311970311971

Keith Colson
04-21-2015, 5:28 AM
Hi Guy

I had a quick look at my focus tonight, I cut a 25mm cross-hair into some 3mm acrylic. I slid my feeler gauges into the cut and it measures 0.152mm +-0.01 basically a 6 thou feeler fits the slot with minimal friction. What does your measure?

Great job Kev, that looks tiny. I was wondering if you could measure a cut on yours too.

Cheers
Keith

Guy Hilliard
04-22-2015, 11:48 AM
Keith

I don't have a set of feeler gauges but I did cut a 1" square and the difference between the piece and the hole is 0.010" so the kerf is 0.005".

How are you measuring in Microns and 1/1000's of a mm? Optical comparator?

Keith Colson
04-22-2015, 4:02 PM
Hi Guy

Thanks, it sounds like my focus is pretty good if mine is 6 thou and yours is 5 thou. The difference is probably measurement error.


Keith

How are you measuring in Microns and 1/1000's of a mm? Optical comparator?

I have a Japanese Olympus stereo zoom microscope. It is calibrated. The graticule reasolution is 40 microns so I can get 20 micron resolution with a plus or minus 10 microns of sighting error. It is very handy to have in the "clean" workshop. I use it for soldering tiny pcb's etc.

Cheers
Keith

Guy Hilliard
04-23-2015, 9:17 AM
Keith;

I don't want to be alarmist or anything but if my spot size is 0.005" and yours is 0.006" then if we had the same power then your power density would be 44% less than mine, i.e. the area of your focused spot is 44% larger than mine. That is a significant difference.

Dave Sheldrake
04-23-2015, 3:45 PM
It would if the beam profile was flat at the end like a cylinder Guy :)

Guy Hilliard
04-24-2015, 7:27 PM
Dave;

Regardless of the beam shape, if you have the power focused on a spot 0.006" in diameter it's power density (W/cm^2) is 44% lower than the same amount of power focused on a spot 0.005" in diameter. Yes, there are areas in the spot that will have higher (and lower) power densities than other areas in the spot (because of the Gaussian distribution of power across the width of the beam and artifacts created by the optics) but over the entire focal spot my statement is valid - and I believe both Keith and I are using the entire focal spot to cut the material, at least I know that I am.

My bad - mixing units like that, I should have said J/cm^2 or W/in^2. Sorry if I offended anyone.