What can I use to mark my turnings that doesn't smear when the finish is applied?

[Rick Gibson]

I've tried ballpoint, sharpies and pencils. The only thing that didn't smear when I put the finish on was the pencil but I have my doubts of it's permanence and it doesn't show up well on darker wood. I don't do enough to make it worthwhile buying a woodburner and with the cheap ones the tip is to far away to give me good control. Any ideas on something that won't smear when I apply finish?

[Keith Outten]

Ask one of our laser engravers here to make you some laser engraved medallion inserts. You use a forsner bit to drill a perfect hole for the insert and set them in with a drop of glue. You can have your custom shop logo in the medallion as well, even your signature is easy to add.

[Doug Herzberg]

Keith, that's an idea I've never seen before on this forum. Refreshing. I would have thought it too expensive.

[Roger Chandler]

I have used sharpies in the past.........if you let them dry and cure overnight, they usually will allow for wipe on poly or an oil finish, but I have changed to use a burning pen to sign my name, etc........it works much better and you won't have to worry with it fading over time.

I use the Colwood cub writer and a fine tipped pen.

[Steve Schlumpf]

I use an archival ink pen - available at most art/crafts stores. Used on bare wood, it only takes a couple of seconds to dry and then the finish of your choice can be applied without smearing. I use wipe-on poly and have never had a problem.

[Perry Holbrook]

Is there a reason that you don't sign the work after the finish is applied? I finish with lacquer and sign before I ship.

Perry

[Tim Boger]

Get an inexpensive wood burning pen, once you learn what the best temp setting is you can do a nice looking signature.

I also like the idea of having some medallions done up by one of the engraver guys here.

Tim

[Ryan Mooney]

I just started using india ink with a dip pen. Takes a little practice but looks pretty nice once you get the swing of it. I'd considered branding but its nice to note the year and wood species as well so this gives a bit of options (as well as easy ability to adjust size, etc..). Requires a SMOOTH surface with the dip pen so I've been putting either signing after finishing or after the first couple coats with a wipe coat on top. Its pretty permanent as well, so you want to make sure you've got the hand of it down before you put the pen to the work.

[Russ Denz]

I had a similar situation recently when turning a pair of Indian Clubs out of Ash as exercise aids for my son-in-law's Physical Therapy clinic. They were so plain I decided to embellish them with some color. After turning a sample piece I added colored bands using 1) Tombow markers (Craft Supplies), 2)Pigma Archival Ink pens (forgot where they came from), and 3) Sharpies from Ultra Fine Point to the regular big size with the following results:
They all failed, and they all worked perfectly finishing with wop. The significant factor between success and failure was nothing but time, as many have already stated. It appears that almost anything can be used and preserved if applied to the bare wood and allowed a day or two to cure (maybe less but I didn't want to risk the clubs by finish coating too quickly). Let me add that I also used black for the signature: same result. Hope this is helpful.

[Rick Gibson]

Thanks for the ideas. The medallion insert I figured would be to expensive going by my local engraver. She charges me $20 per pen. Since I generally only get 1 pen done at a time for gifts it's still cheaper than paying shipping both ways for someone cheaper. It did give me an idea though, I do waterslide decals on some of the pens so I could likely do the same for bowls etc. It would be even easier as I would be dealing with a flat surface. i will give the sharpie another try and let it dry a day or two before I put the finish on. I'll also look for an archival ink pen the next time I get to the nearest craft store.

[James Conrad]

Use an engraver, Dremel makes one, and fill with a Lacquer Stik, after you have finished otherwise it will fill the grain. http://www.markal.com/solid-paint-markers/lacquer-stik/

[Jeffrey J Smith]

+1 on the engraver. I've been using a dremel engraver to sign everything for since I started turning (a while ago). I take the point out and sharpen it on the grinder to a long thin point. Works very well. On darker woods, a little liming wax helps pop the signature.

[Ken Andersen]

I've just started to use my color laser printer to print the information I want in the format I want on clear "water-slide" decal paper. This is then applied to the bottom of the turning after the first coat or two of spray lacquer, and after a brief drying period,
covered with additional coats of spray on lacquer. Haven't tried other finishes, but have had no issues so far.

[Shawn Pachlhofer]

at $20 per pen, I can't imagine her medallions would be cheap.

that adds up very quickly and you could have ended up buying a cheap wood burner in the long run.

you could make your own burner too: http://www.woodturnersresource.com/extras/projects/priddle/WoodBurner.html

[Keith Outten]

Keith, that's an idea I've never seen before on this forum. Refreshing. I would have thought it too expensive.

Its been awhile but we have had several of our engravers offer custom medallions here. I don't remember the prices that were quoted but I recall that they were very affordable, something in the neighborhood of a buck each but don't quote me on that as my memory is not what it used to be. There should be a number of threads in our archives with plenty of pictures and prices.

A request in our Classifieds Forum should yield a long list of our Members who would be interested in providing custom medallions, you can also search the Friends of The Creek Directory for Laser Engravers who provide the service. Although there are several other techniques available laser engraved medallions are the best quality and provide options that the others don't.

I made some for Ken Salisbury back in the day and I have been working on two new very detailed designs for our Moderators for over a year but haven't found the time to finish them.


I found some links:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?133958-Medallion-Request&highlight=medallion

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/personalize-woodworker.aspx

Here is a link to a thread that is currently active on a similar subject.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?230179-Double-sided-engraving

There are more pictures here but they were added to posts without tags and they often don't use the term medallion, sometimes they are called coins, etc.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Perry, I found that as long as I sign the bare wood, nothing smears the archival ink. I have had mixed results when signing over a poly finish.

[Steve Huffman]

I think no matter that you use, one option is to sign, (I used a sharpie) then spray one or 2 light coats of clear lacquer over the signature, hat dries right away and puts a seal coat. Then I followed up with either a wipe on poly or I will spray use a lacquer finish. The 2 shots of lacquer will seal the deal for that combo. With oil finishes Steve's archival ink method sounds like the ticket.

[Steve Huffman]

I use an archival ink pen - available at most art/crafts stores. Used on bare wood, it only takes a couple of seconds to dry and then the finish of your choice can be applied without smearing. I use wipe-on poly and have never had a problem.

Steve, I missed this post. Can you sign with this ink and then brush on a coat lacquer without smear? I would be very interested in this method if that works.

[Larry Cutlip]

Ron Brown is selling them now.
Larry

[Steve Schlumpf]

I have used this method on every finish I have used (Danish Oil, Antique Oil, Walnut Oil, Wipe-On Poly, Brush on Lacquer, De-waxed Shellac) and it works with them all. The key is it needs to be written on bare wood and you only have to wait a second or two for it to dry before applying finish.

[Harry Goodwin]

From coolhammer beeswax does not smear sharpies on tops. HG

[James Combs]

I use an archival ink pen - available at most art/crafts stores. Used on bare wood, it only takes a couple of seconds to dry and then the finish of your choice can be applied without smearing. I use wipe-on poly and have never had a problem.
+1 for an archival pen, I use the same and always try to remember to do it on the bare wood.

[Steve Doerr]

The archival pens can be purchased at either Hobby Lobby or Michael's. I use them on fresh wood. Have not had any luck trying to sign once I have put a finish on the wood.

As far as paying $20 to get your pens engraved, I use the local vocational school which has a laser engraver. She charges me a dollor a pen. I usually give her more than that since it all goes to their TSA club.

[John Terefenko]

I had a wood burner made years ago and put it on most of my woodwork projects.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/JTTHECLOCKMAN/IMGP0485.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/JTTHECLOCKMAN/media/IMGP0485.jpg.html)

[Rick Gibson]

Thanks for the ideas. I'll look for an archival pen next time I go to Chatham at Michaels. If I can ever find a logo that I like (I am really challenged when it comes to artwork or graphics) I'll give the waterslide decal a try. I don't do enough bowls and things like that to make it worth while getting medallions made and usually it is given away so keeping costs down would be a factor.

[George Overpeck]

archival ink works fine and you don't have to go far to find them, I get mine at the local drugstore.

[Rick Gibson]

Picked up a couple pens with archival ink at Michaels yesterday and tested this morning on some scrap wood. Immediately applied finish and no smearing thanks.