Reeves Drives

[Russell Neyman]

I constantly hear complaints about Reeves Drive speed control mechanisms and really can't understand it. Yes, they do get mangled and need to have parts replaced, but that's almost always operator error. I've had three lathes with Reeves and not one has ever failed; never jammed up, never slipped, never broke. Right now, I have a Jet 14-42 with thousands of hours on it and it's solid as a rock. I mean, this design certainly is better than the old four-stage pulley system, and the price tag is significantly less than an electornic speed control.

I'm curious to hear the experiences of other woodturners. Problems? Complaints? Endorsements?

(For those who aren't familiar, the continuiously variable transmission, aka Reeves Drive, is a speed control with two-part pulleys that change size under pressure. When one is forced to a higher or lower diameter, the second spring-loaded pulley adjusts accordingly. The key to using them is to never, ever change speeds unless the lathe is turned on. Here's a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M8ExzaUq5GI )

[Bill White]

I'm with you. No problems at all with my Grizz 1067Z. I keep the drive clean and lubed as you are supposed to do.
Bill

[Walter Mooney]

My Jet 1236 was handed down to me by a good friend. He had it and used it for years, I've had it for five or six years, never had a problem. It's louder than I'd like, but otherwise, it runs every time I turn it on!

[hu lowery]

Depends on the particular implementation of the Reeves drive. I have the old Craftsman. Poorly designed so the tiny primary drive belt can be destroyed because of the hardware rubbing on the back of it and no way to lubricate the sliding half pulleys other than take them apart and try to get a little lube on them. Mine were frozen when I got the lathe, new, unused, had been sitting for years. The pulleys jammed over and over, I took things apart, sanded with fine sandpaper, tried colloidal graphite and several lubes. One or the other seemed to have worked for awhile but I think my pulley has stuck again, haven't looked to see.

Some other brands with the Reeves drives better designed and with grease fittings and such make people much happier. With the price of electronic variable speed drives coming way down the Reeves will be less popular all the time. Annoying to forget to turn the drive down before chucking something on the lathe and realizing the speed is far too fast. I have bumped the start button a few times and snuck speeds down but I think we all know that is bad practice. Started a piece of wood between centers just yesterday, got it all ready to turn and realized the speed was way too fast. I had been turning finials. Weighed trying to bump the speed down hitting the start button but eventually said a few choice words and took the wood off before starting the lathe empty to change speeds.

Should get in the habit of turning the lathe down before hitting the stop button but easier said than done. No need to do it starting and stopping two or three times making the finial, then done for the day.

From what I have read probably over 75% of the "I hate Reeves drives" posts come from Craftsman owners or former Craftsman owners. Someone that turns at least three or four times a week and maintains their Reeves drive doesn't have nearly the issues of an occasional turner with a drive that is almost impossible to maintain to begin with.

Hu

[Michelle Rich]

I agree..I've used a Griz for 20+ yrs and zero issues, except for the hum/noise. Been perfect.

[Russell Neyman]

Lathe maintenance is something many of us overlook. I'm certainly including myself in that group. It says a lot for the Jet application of the Reeves system that I've had so few issues. All this came up when our club was given a Jet 14-42 (exactly the same unit as my personal lathe) with a bashed up set of pulleys, and someone expressed the opinion, "Yep, that's what you can expect from that system." We're in the process of bringing it up to snuff so we can auction it off.

When I sense something is loose on mine, I open up the cover and tighten all the set screws, blowing out the dust and adding some graphite to the shafts while it's open. I've worn out a belt, but that's it. I bought it used and believe it to be nearly seven years old and it's a solid-running machine.

[Dick Strauss]

Russell,
I think it all depends on the quality of the drive pulleys. I always keep my lathe well lubricated but had the spindle half pulley that moves separate at the hub after about 6-8 years of light use. After I removed the broken parts with no issue, I discovered that the original pot metal casting was less than 1/16" thick at that junction between the hub and drive vanes that flare outward.

The reeves drive pulleys on the motor side were already replaced under warranty.

The older Delta, Powermatic 45/90, and General lathes all used cast iron reeves drive pulleys that are much more robust from I undertsand.

I am in the process of completely rebuilding the lathe without the reeves drive using a VFD.

If anyone needs reeves drive parts, let me know!

[Robert Engel]

I picked up a Jet 1442 and discovered both pulleys were worn, even the stationary one.
So I guess they do wear out, but I'm wondering if it wasn't from lubrication issue.

I've got a new drive, new shaft and new bearings but haven't gotten around to putting it back together yet.

I haven't been able to find an answer as to the best lubricant to use on the shaft.

Nothing in owners manual and haven't gotten around to calling Jet.

Does Jet recommend graphite?

Thanks.

[charlie knighton]

i will fess up.....my first lathe was a delta reeves drive....12 swing, 42 I believe length.......I was glad to see the jet hit the shop.......2 problems....I would forget to unlock the spindle, or think it was unlock....start lathe up....this is not good.......other problem was start/stop......after several trips to delta service center I got local electrian to put a light switch on it for on/off......I understand that the brushes wore out quickly on the same models in the artisan center......I ended up improving the drive center, not much bite.....but when the lathe was working...it did a good job.....a little light and high start up speed, but ya got to start somewhere to find out what you like

[Dennis Ford]

The OLD Rockwell, Yates American & Oliver reeves drives were bullet proof, little maintenance needed and they lasted for years. The design itself is not a problem but doing it right is expensive, the cheap versions have issues.

[Russell Neyman]

i will fess up.... I would forget to unlock the spindle ... problem was start/stop......after several trips to delta service center I got local electrian to put a light switch on it for on/off....

So you hardwired a light onto the lathe? Lathe on, light on? Not sure I understand.

[Len Mullin]

So you hardwired a light onto the lathe? Lathe on, light on? Not sure I understand.

Russell, I believe he means that he had a light switch installed to be used as the on/off switch.
Len

[charlie knighton]

Russell, I believe he means that he had a light switch installed to be used as the on/off switch.
Len
Len, you are correct.......it worked fine.....as far as I know, it is still in place as I sold the lathe several years ago

[Brian Myers]

The OLD Rockwell, Yates American & Oliver reeves drives were bullet proof, little maintenance needed and they lasted for years. The design itself is not a problem but doing it right is expensive, the cheap versions have issues.

Yates used a large solid heavy aluminum setup unlike most of today's which also includes having an oil cup to lube . Easy to maintain but you must keep up with the oiling. The castings are completely smooth , no recesses in the casting of the sheave where the belt rides but it also uses variable speed belts which are thick and heavy unlike the usual V belt used on today's lathes . Delta/Rockwell used a similar setup on at least one of their metal turning lathes. The old setups are much more stout than today's. I had a Harbor Freight lathe for a few years , the reeves drive on that worked ok , only had to get some lube into it once in a while but it did chew up it's V belts. The pulley's castings were cheap and rough.

[Christopher Morgan]

Lathe maintenance is something many of us overlook.

Anyone know of a tutorial on what proper Reeves drive maintenance consists in?

[Roy Turbett]

I think that you have to a full understanding of how all of the parts work because most manuals don't cover everything. Fortunately, its fairly easy to understand whats going on by just watching what happens when the lathe is running and you move the speed dial.

I have three Powermatic 90's with reeves drive and the manual explains how to oil the one part that needs lubrication (an oil cup), and how to tension the belt and determine when it is worn out. But it doesn't mention that the set screw that holds the fixed sheave in place needs to be checked. The fixed sheave and spindle on one of my lathes was damaged when the previous owner (a public school) allowed the set screw to work loose which caused the fixed sheave to wollow out. Another thing that it doesn't explain well is that the cam on the speed dial can be damaged if it is continually operated with the bolt holding it in place loose.

[Fitzhugh Freeman]

I could be wrong about your machine's implementation but on mine you don't have to actually run the motor to switch speeds, you can manually turn the shaft by hand while slowly changing speeds. I often stick s 10" sanding disk on the opposite side of the shaft from the chuck and use it to spin the shaft, sheaves and belts. I'm overly cautious about pinching the belt and yet it still is faster than the other options in must most cases.


OK, here's where I break down and admit I own Shopsmiths instead of real tools ;) The first came with a second one that was a "have it if ya haul it... It's shot, won't even turn"

Well, got home and found it was just a jammed belt in the Reaves drive sheaves. I don't know if this happens to other machines with their versions of the drive but it is a well known issue with Shopsmiths.

I don't know if these are commonly known solutions but just in case they help someone:
On Shopsmiths of a certain age that lack oiling holes you just drill them yourself in the outer hollow shafts. The standard lube schedule is a good few drops of oil along the lines of turbine oil or sewing machine oil in the oiling holes every 10 hours of run time. That, usually poorly followed at best, has kept many of these running for long decades. I love the idea of a oiler cup but this works.

Damage from changing speeds when not turning is also common. With the speed control on the Shopsmith the "porkchop" piece that moves the floating sheave ends up off kilter from this. Replacing the roll pin on which the pork chop pivots with a bolt and nut really help keep it all aligned. I'll try to post a photo, again, I've no idea if other Reaves drives are adjusted with the same mechanism.

[Jim Underwood]

Before I got my Jet 1642 EVS, I wouldn't have a Reeves drive. And now after I've had it for several years, I REALLY wouldn't have a Reeves drive. Too much hassle, and I don't trust 'em. Your mileage may vary...

Had experience with a commercial type on a molder several years back. Wore that sucker out several times.
Then I got a cheapy HF lathe (1236?) with one on it, and the pulleys were not aligned, causing the belt to wear and come apart. When I loosened the set screws to move one of the pulleys over, the casting cracked like a potato chip.
Never did repair it, even though the part was only $10. I just sold it as is, and didn't look back.