Help! I am trying to install an electronic motor brake...

[Dongil Kim]

I am trying to install an electronic motor brake(called Short Stop) to my table saw.
The installation manual (http://www.saldet.com/pdf/manual_1250b_shortstop_g.pdf) says that it can be done by 6 wire connections to Terminal 1 to 6 of the Short Stop motor brake.
I wonder if I can do it by myself.

[Dongil Kim]

I think I should connect Terminal 1, 2, 5, 6 of the Short Stop to L1, L3, T3, T1 of the table saw switch box respectively with new wires over existing wire connections.

[Dongil Kim]

I am not sure how to connect Terminal 3 and 4.
The white and red wires on the left of the table saw switch box are connected to the front start and stop buttons.
I think those wires should be connected to Terminal 3 and 4.

I can think of 6 possible connections.
The 1st and the 2nd are connecting Terminal 3 and 4 with new wires to two terminals at the switch box.
The 3rd and the 4th are disconnecting the white and red wires and connecting them to Terminal 3 and 4.
The 5th and the 6th are adding new wire connections to the 3rd and the 4th ones, connecting Terminal 3 and 4 with new wires to two terminals at the switch box


If you can identify a proper connection in my candidates, please let me know.

[Charles Lent]

The schematic shows that it's for a 3 phase motor. Is your motor a 3 phase?

Charley

[Bradley Gray]

looks to me like the low voltage wires from the on/ off switch should go to the new unit only. I think the short stop is replacing the relay in the original starter.

[Dongil Kim]

Charley, Yes it is a 3-phase motor.
Bradley, are you saying that either the 3rd of the 4th of my candidates is the right connection?

[Rick Lizek]

Why don't you call the manufacturer for help? Be careful how you set the braking speed. Too quick and the arbor nut will spin off. We used to put these on saws in schools.

[Dongil Kim]

Rick, I asked the question to the manufacture and was told that I should have understood it from the manual.

I am going to put a jam nut to make a two nut system, which was mentioned in the manufacture's manual as a way to prevent the loosening. I just hope it would work. I have experience of using the brake on a Tannwitz at the NBSS too.

[David Kumm]

3 and 4 attach to wires that go the the start stop button. My button are three wire and 220 volt so L1 gos directly to one side of the start button. Normally the other wire goes from the coil to the other side of the start ( "2" ) on my AB starter but usually the right side of the coil. Instead of going directly to the start from "2" you go to 4 on the short stop. 3 goes back and attaches to the start button so you are just making a loop from the coil through 4 to 3 back to the start. Dave

[Dongil Kim]

David, my General 130 runs great and thank you for your kind assistance.
Are you saying that I should make the 4th connection in my candidates, which connects the input wire(to the start button) to Terminal 4 of the SS(Short Stop) and Terminal 3 of the SS to the output wire? (I am attaching the 4th image again in this reply.)

[David Kumm]

I'm not sure I can see the coil connection on the starter, but likely the coil connection on the right side will go to 4 and three will go to the start button. Again, I don't know the coil voltage so my wiring applies to 220 coil voltage. I'm assuming you have the input wires connected and the output to the motor that don't show in the pictures. Dave

EDIT. From what I can see, the "2" is on the left on your Furnas starter. Go from 2 to 4 on the SS. Furnas ran a multivoltage coil so it can be wired for either 110 or 220. I'm also assuming the Ollie ran fine before you added the SS. Dave

[Rod Sheridan]

Of course, assuming you have a magnetic starter with the correct coil voltage. (Not higher than 240 volts...........Rod.

[Dongil Kim]

Rod, thank you for your advice. I'll check it out.
David, The Ollie runs great. I am attaching two images. The 1st one is the current wiring(without the SS). The 2nd one is another candidate, which could be the one you suggest. I hope I understand it correctly.

[Dongil Kim]

I know you may have difficulty in answering my question because I do(can) not provide more clear information on my starter.
What if I replace the old starter of my table saw with, say, a Grizzly T24104(https://www.grizzly.com/products/Magnetic-Switch-3-Phase-220V-Only-5-HP-15-20A/T24104).
I believe it has a 220v coil and you may obtain clear information from https://d27ewrs9ow50op.cloudfront.net/manuals/t24104_m.pdf.
In that case, can you guys provide guidance on how I can connect it with the T3 and T4 of the SS more easily and clearly?

[David Kumm]

Rod, thank you for your advice. I'll check it out.
David, The Ollie runs great. I am attaching two images. The 1st one is the current wiring(without the SS). The 2nd one is another candidate, which could be the one you suggest. I hope I understand it correctly.

That looks correct as far as I can tell. Furnas should have a coil that can be set to 220 or 440. 220 is what you want. That mag starter would be my preference over the new Grizzly. The old nema starters were clunky by comparison but seem to last forever. The new modular ones don't last nearly as long. I've replaced far more new starters than old. Dave

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi, I have a question about your start/stop switch.

Is it the type where the start button stays pushed in until you push the stop button and then it pops out?

Thanks, Rod.

[Dongil Kim]

David, you are right. I think it is currently set to 220-240.
Rod, the start/start switch is not the type you described. The start button pops out if I stop pushing my finger.

I think I can give it a try this weekend. I'll report the result.

[David Kumm]

If you had a maintained contact switch on that starter, the world would come to an end. Mag starters use a momentary so you are good there. When you get to testing the SS, adjust the torque to low so it slows very slowly. Then adjust the torque higher so the blade stops in about 5 - 10 seconds. Then set the timer so it buzzes just a little after the blade fully stops. Dave

[Dongil Kim]

My table saw, an Oliver 270-D is a direct drive and therefore needed a lot of time to stop, more than 2 minutes. It was not only inconvenient but also dangerous. I wanted to install an electronic motor brake which could stop the table saw more quickly. I searched for an electrician who can do the installation work. However it was almost impossible to find such a person here in my area and I decided to do it myself.

My mission of installing the electronic motor brake has been accomplished. My table saw can stop in 6 seconds now.

I couldn't have done it without help from Sawmill Creek forum users. Thank you, Charles, Bradley, Rick, David, Rod, and many forum users who spared their valuable time to read this thread.


Happy Woodworking
from Heyri

[David Kumm]

Direct drive are sweet. Hard to explain until you use one. Check the arbor nut periodically just to make sure it doesn't loosen up but 6 seconds sounds like a safe option. If you put a dado on the saw, the brake might need adjustment. Also keep a few spares of the three fuses. I've burned them up - not often but it happens. Dave

[Dongil Kim]

I liked a Tannewitz with the SS at the NBSS a lot and dreamed to own/use it. I don't know what is the advantage of a direct drive over a belt drive. However I like its robustness. I am really happy with this result. Thank you.