Dust Collection for Jet JTAS-10XL

[Don Abele]

I need to replace my current tablesaw (very old craftsman that didn't make it in the last move). I'm pretty much locked on to the Jet JTAS-10XL (have been looking at it for years waiting for mine to break - no I didn't break it on purpose!!!).

Anyway, I'm going to build another over-arm guard for it (currently have one on the craftsman). The dust shoot on it comes off the right side so I can connect it to the overarm using a "Y". The Jet comes off the left side...that's a lot of elbows to get it around there. Is it possible to cut the cabinet stand and bring the dust collection out the right side and plug/cover the one on the left?

Thanks for your insight and assistance.

Be well,

Doc

[Dennis Peacock]

Doc,

I did this to my Jet saw:<BR>
<img src="http://home.alliancecable.net/~woodworker/tsdchookup.jpg"><BR>
<BR>
I cut the back because it made for a lot straighter connection to my dust collection system.

Hope this helps.

[Mike Schwing]

I have a new Jet cabinet saw and am extremely disappointed in the dust collection capability. My old saw literally sucked the dust from the area surrounding the blade insert.

While the Jet doesn't make as much dust for some reason - even with the same blade, there is almost no vacuum/air flow around the blade insert when I put my hand over it, and a lot of chips accumulates in the bottom of my saw. The old saw was clean enough to operate in. I have a more than adequate dust collector with aftermarket (AFF) bags that probably double the intake flow to boot.

I have been considering modifications - currently I'm thinking of making a "subfloor" that will attach to 3 sides of the cabinet to collect the dust and scoop it down to a 6" dust port.

Before I go there though, I plan on closing up all of the many, many air holes that exist around the table/cabinet join, the adjustment wheels, etc...

I'm ashamed to say that I have not been using the overarm blade guard/dust collector that I used on my old saw. This new saw, with the better fence, larger working surface, and more stable motor just gives me more confidence - which I'm sure will bite me sooner or later.

[Jim Becker]

Don, it's certainly possible to change the cabinet to accomodate your needs. In addition to the obvious...putting a port where you want it, you'll also need to re-engineer the "floor" of the saw to insure the dust slopes toward your new port. Be sure that there are no problems with motor clearance when the arbor is tilted fully to 45º. I also recommend you seal around the edges of the "floor" with foil tape as that will prevent fine dust from dropping onto the shop floor under the saw. While you're changing the port, consider upgrading it in size...a 6" port will allow you to move a lot more air.

As to efficiency, I think that many folks worry too much about small amounts of dust and chips accumulating in the saw cabinet. Unless you have tons and tons of airflow, you will always have some "stuff" piling up. Closing up all the holes is NOT the answer as doing so also closes off the air supply. Since zero-clearance inserts also reduce the amount of air entering the cabinet, you begin to starve off the DC...remember, it's air flow that moves the dust and chips, not "suction". There are a few things that you should consider for the cabinet. First, be sure that there is enough air input to fill the size of the duct leading out of the saw cabinet. "Where" that air comes from can also make a difference as it will affect air flow through the cabinet and consequently, the path that the dust you are trying to collect takes. (This is the reason that you WILL get some accumulation in the corners--look at the shape of that accumulation to understand what is happening)

Frankly, I don't run the port on the saw cabinet when I am using the overarm guard. If I get some dust and chips in the cabinet, they are easy to deal with later. What I'm more concerned with is the dust getting into the air off the top of the blade...that's one of the major reasons I use an overarm guard! That airborne dust is the real danger and catching it at the source is key.

[Doug Littlejohn]

Dennis,

Looks nice. I have three questions.

1.) How well does it work?
2.) Is there any more DC on it?
3.) What size DC are you running? (DC Hp, trunk dia.,etc.)

Thanks.

[Dennis Peacock]

1.) How well does it work?
VERY WELL.......I can't expect any better from the setup.

2.) Is there any more DC on it?
Nope....Wha-choo See is Wha-choo get.....only a single 6" duct.

3.) What size DC are you running? (DC Hp, trunk dia.,etc.)
I am running the little bitty Dust Eliminator Cyclone with a Leeson 5 HP compressor duty motor and Jet DC1900 impeller. I get 1,048 CFM at the tablesaw which is at the end of a single 78 foot run of duct away from the cyclone.

Where did I get the number of CFM.....Terry Hatfield measured it with his Dwyer guages AT THE SAW.....

'nuff said and I hope this helps...

Dennis

[Doug Littlejohn]

Dennis,

THanks a bunch! Sounds like a cool system. My numbers should be close to yours so it would appear that I could do something similar.

Thanks for sharing.