Mylands Friction Polish Experiences?

[Bill Grumbine]

Greetings all

I saw a bottle of this stuff while I was in the local Woodcraft store recently, and I got to wondering if people were using it, and how their experience with it was working out. For a long time I was a devotee of Behlen's Woodturner's Finish, and used it on many many pens and other small turnings. However, my current bottle has been sitting around for almost eight years, and it is not working like it used to.

I would be interested to hear how the Mylands is working out for those of you using it, as well as hearing about the things on which you are using it.

Bill

[Ed Davidson]

If you want your nice shiny friction polish finish to turn to a rutty matt finish with a minute or two of light use, then this product is for you. Personally, I think it's pretty much useless.

[Harry Pye]

I use Mylands on pens. Start with CA to seal the wood and fill the pores. Several coats and sanding in between coats. Follow the CA with Mylands while the pen is on the lathe. I rub it dry with the lathe spinning and apply enough pressure for the pen to get quite hot. This seems to smooth the coating and give it a brilliant shine. I have heard that friction polishes in general are not too durable, but so far no complaints. I also use it on small craft items that are not subject to a lot of handling.

[Blake McCully]

If you want your nice shiny friction polish finish to turn to a rutty matt finish with a minute or two of light use, then this product is for you. Personally, I think it's pretty much useless.

Bill,
I agree with Ed. I have tried using Myland's as well as Hut Crystal Coat and even have used multiple coats after letting them cure for a day between coats. By the time I have had the pen put together, it was all blurry and kucky looking.

Just my two cents. How's the new lathe doing?

Have a good one.

[Jim Becker]

I used it early on for small object, but like any shellac based finish, you have to be really careful that you don't build too thick.

[Bill Grumbine]

Thanks for the replies everyone. I posted this in several places, and have gotten responses across the spectrum. My goal is to find something that is fast and durable for smaller items. I always had (well, almost always had) good results with Behlen's, but I was hoping to avoid shellac becasue of the handling issue. This seems to fit the bill based on comments from those who have used it and found it to work well for them, but I would be concerned about the bottle stoppers I am starting to make. I'll have to think on it some more.

Bill

[Harry Pye]

Bill,

I'm almost certain that Myland's Friction Polish is shellac based. I wouldn't use it on wine bottle stoppers because of the possible contact with the wine. While wine doesn't have a huge alcohol content, it would be enough to react with the Mylands.

Why not just use several coats of CA with sanding followed by a Beal buffing?

[Bill Grumbine]

Hi Harry

I've thought about the CA glue thing, but I really hate the fumes, and it gets to be expensive to boot.

I was in town today to pick up Daughter #2 on her way home from a short term mission trip, so I stopped into Woodcraft. Was that you in there earlier on today? :D

Bill

[Harry Pye]

That was me. I was talking with Bill Hamilton about loaning the library in his town some turnings for a display they are putting on. You know that Woodcraft stores have a TV and video player in their book section. Most of the time it was playing your DVD. You should have stopped over and said hello, you might have sold some autographed videos! :)

[Jack Savona]

Bill, I have used my 2 oz bottle of THICK CA for many, many stoppers and it's still goin' like the Energizer Bunny. Whatever the cost of those ten drops ($.02?, $.05?) per stopper, it saves me valuable production time and seals the wood with a hard durable finish.

And when you use the DC next to the piece, you should have no problem whatsoever with the fumes. (However, you will be able to tell when you forget to turn the DC on. DAMHIKT) And use a faceshield!!!

BTY, I have found a real 'hit' with my tourist stores here in Maine. I inlay a Maine State Quarter in the top of the stopper. I wholesaled one to a Hotel in town and it sold right away. They ordered more. Did one for a New Hampshire wine store. He ordered 3 dozen for the foliage and holiday season. Certainly will help toward a new lathe.

Jack

[John Hart]

Jack...Do you use several coats of CA or just one? Any insights on your technique would be be most appreciated!! I'm getting tired of fumbling around. :o

[Jack Savona]

John, I use just one coat. The text below comes from a prior post I made:

Somewhere along the line I picked up the procedure I'm now using for both pens and bottle stoppers, and I'm very pleased with it. After sanding to desired grit (I often go to MM 12000, but you could do less), I take a piece of plastic from a baggie or a piece of wax paper and use it to help apply really THICK (I get mine at Rockler) CA liberally at the slowest lathe speed. I use a face mask and my DC during this. The THICK CA doesn't set quickly, so I have some time to get a liberal coating of BLO onto the paper towel I have folded and ready to go and apply it to the piece as it's moving slowly, first light pressure then heavy. Then I quickly refold the towel, increase the speed, and apply lots more BLO, letting my fingertip tell me if there are any spots that need more pressure. Instant smooth coating. Usually no further sanding required, but I'll often MM again just because it only tales a few seconds and makes me feel better about it.

I follow with Mylands and a wax.

I find no significant problem with glued bushings. My guess is that the really THICK CA doesn't penetrate the joints. A light snap removes any that might stick, and a gentle 220 grit on the edge of the piece smoothes it out.

I used to use THIN CA dripped onto a BLO towel next to the piece, but now prefer the method above.

As with most turners, the quest continues for a better way. Hope some of this is useful.

Jack

[John Hart]

Thanks Jack...I'll give your technique a whirl. I'm also watching another thread where Dominic is acheiving a pretty great finish with lacquer....I'm gonna have to try both methinks. When will it end???

Thanks

[Pat Salter]

Thanks Jack...I'll give your technique a whirl. I'm also watching another thread where Dominic is acheiving a pretty great finish with lacquer....I'm gonna have to try both methinks. When will it end???

Thanks

When we're turning in our graves....... :D

[mark buckley54]

try this link for glue, nice price and quick in shipping


http://woodenwonderstx.com/WWBlue/NewGlueWS.html



Hi Harry

I've thought about the CA glue thing, but I really hate the fumes, and it gets to be expensive to boot.

I was in town today to pick up Daughter #2 on her way home from a short term mission trip, so I stopped into Woodcraft. Was that you in there earlier on today? :D

Bill

[Paul Douglass]

Holy Cow, I'm depressed. Bill G. has to ask a question about wood turning??!! The man that made the first DVD I bought on bowl making and still watch it often!! Where is my Wellburten!(sp). This is the biggest thrill of my life to be able to say, Bill I used it a couple times and was not impress. I do like their sanding sealer though.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Paul,


You do realize that this thread is 5 years old?

[Karl Card]

Thanks Jack...I'll give your technique a whirl. I'm also watching another thread where Dominic is acheiving a pretty great finish with lacquer....I'm gonna have to try both methinks. When will it end???

Thanks


I personally love a lacquer finish... but I dont have the patience to wait for it to dry... a personal problem...lol..

But I am soon to be ready to start spraying lacquer where I mix it and I can get it to dry as fast as I need it too... My favorite lacquer for dipping is deft, very clear, and looks like a lake of clear water with no waves at all.

[Paul Douglass]

Paul,


You do realize that this thread is 5 years old?


That's funny, no I never paid any attention to the date. Guess I didn't notice the date because it was in my new posts.

[John Hart]

I personally love a lacquer finish... but I dont have the patience to wait for it to dry... a personal problem...lol..

But I am soon to be ready to start spraying lacquer where I mix it and I can get it to dry as fast as I need it too... My favorite lacquer for dipping is deft, very clear, and looks like a lake of clear water with no waves at all.

Back 5 years ago, when we were having that discussion...I did try to spray some laquer on a set of newly turned pen components. As I recall, I followed someone else's instructions and set up a series of 12 dowels, and shot the laquer on all of them all at once.

I ruined 12 perfectly good pieces...all at once. :o:D

I think I still have those pieces in a box somewhere, buried under 15 tons of junk and dust. :)

[Bryan Morgan]

Greetings all

I saw a bottle of this stuff while I was in the local Woodcraft store recently, and I got to wondering if people were using it, and how their experience with it was working out. For a long time I was a devotee of Behlen's Woodturner's Finish, and used it on many many pens and other small turnings. However, my current bottle has been sitting around for almost eight years, and it is not working like it used to.

I would be interested to hear how the Mylands is working out for those of you using it, as well as hearing about the things on which you are using it.

Bill


Its ok. I used it when I first started turning pens and whatnot. It isn't super durable but it looks nice if you take your time with it.

[Jim Burr]

I like it for boxes or little things that aren't handled much. Not a good idea for pens if they are used. Not a very wearable finish, but it's shiny!

[Ted Evans]

Bill, first, thanks for your videos, they were the first ones that I watched when I began turning, love them.

I have limited experience, having only turned about 75 pens so far but will share my thoughts.

152994

This is one of the first pens that I turned and is sprayed with two coats of pre-cat lacquer, no polish, now wax. This is the stuff I use for cabinets and is impervious to most any thing, including acetone for brief periods. I spray one coat, wait about 20 minutes, rub down with scotch-brite burgundy, spray second and it's done.

152995

The second one has one coat of BO rubbed in on lathe, then four coats of CA thin, sand with 1000 W/D with water, 3-4 more coats, lightly sand with 1000 W/D then buffed with Tripoli, white diamond and renaissance wax.

It seems to hold up very well on pens. I use the pre-cat on everything else.