Homemade Handles......would this work as a locking ferrule??

[George Farra]

Hi All.

I've purchased several handless tools and I like the notion of being able to remove the tool from the handle. Although the Hosaluk inserts are nice they are pricey. I have plenty of scrap wood to make handles and I was wondering if I could simply use something like this as the coupling mechanism??

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31JgJPnBsRL._AA160_.jpg (http://www.amazon.com/Hubbell-2023B5-Coupling-Set-Screw-Uninsulated/dp/B000LEFDR0/ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1428524878&sr=1-8&keywords=set+screw+coupling)

I can source these from HD or Lowes and are dirt cheap....not pretty, but cheap :) I was planning on turning handles that would use a traditional copper ferrule. Instead of the copper ferrule I would epoxy this in place and use a screw that would reach the tool shaft and lock it ion place


Thoughts??

TIA

George

[Roger Chandler]

Hi All.

I've purchased several handless tools and I like the notion of being able to remove the tool from the handle. Although the Hosaluk inserts are nice they are pricey. I have plenty of scrap wood to make handles and I was wondering if I could simply use something like this as the coupling mechanism??



http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31JgJPnBsRL._AA160_.jpg (http://www.amazon.com/Hubbell-2023B5-Coupling-Set-Screw-Uninsulated/dp/B000LEFDR0/ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1428524878&sr=1-8&keywords=set+screw+coupling)

I can source these from HD or Lowes and are dirt cheap....not pretty, but cheap :) I was planning on turning handles that would use a traditional copper ferrule. Instead of the copper ferrule I would epoxy this in place and use a screw that would reach the tool shaft and lock it ion place


Thoughts??

TIA

George

The only thing I might have concern over would be the depth of the shaft into the ferrule which might be too short, and the thinness of the metal for the threads to bite into...........maybe too shallow for a good hold, especially with a heavy cut.

[Mike Golka]

If you have plenty of wood I wouldn't worry about using this type of connection. They won't fit your tools well and the tool will move side to side in the coupling. Your better off with the traditional copper ferrule.

[Jeffrey J Smith]

George - I've been using the Hosaluk ferules for a couple of years now, and am very happy with them. Got a pretty good deal at one of the symposiums on a full set; wound up buying a couple more from Mike's website direct. I'm thinking your 'big box' solution may not be robust enough to handle the stresses. OneWay has their Threadlok ferules that seem to work well, too.
It is a onetime purchase - even if they're expensive, they'll last as long or longer than your handles. I much prefer to share handles on a few of my tools that aren't used often, and really prefer to sharpen without having to dodge the handle...
A while back, there was an article in the AAW Journal about turning your own aluminum handles - may be some ideas in there. Sorry I don't have an issue or date.

[George Farra]

Thank you everyone. Sounds like going with Hosaluk or Oneway would result in a better long term experience

Much appreciatted

George

[Thomas Canfield]

I have used some of the "threaded inserts" (thread into the wood and have thread for set screw or bolt) behind a copper/brass ferule in the larger section of handle to lock a tool into a handle. It does depend on getting a fairly tight fit on the wood bore, but for some of the smaller tools it has worked well.

[Thom Sturgill]

I use aluminum tube for handles - 1" OD with 1/8" sidewall. I then buy 3/4" aluminium rod and cut it to about 3-4" length and drill for whatever size is needed 3/8", 1/2", or 5/8". Epoxy that into the 1" tube and drill and tap for setscrews. Cover with vinyl tubing 1 3/8" OD the type with the webbing in it. Makes a good handle.

This months American Woodturner has an article on custom handles using wood inserts in PVC covered with craft foam and heat-shrink. I tried PVC without the cover before I built my aluminium handles and found them generally too light.

[George Farra]

Tom,

This sounds like a great inexpensive approach. Thank you for sharing. Are you able to find all your materials at the bog box stores or do you buy online?

George

[Thom Sturgill]

Tom,

This sounds like a great inexpensive approach. Thank you for sharing. Are you able to find all your materials at the bog box stores or do you buy online?

George

Online. Speedy Metals or Metals Depot for the rod and tubing. The vinyl is the most expensive and it comes frm Lowes. HD has it but the local one does not sell by the foot, Lowes does. A late member of out club told me he found the metal at a supplier in the next town, but I have not been able to locate it. Shipping is as much as the metal itself. My handles run about $10 each, I typically buy 3 or 4 ft lengths of tubing and make 2 or 3 handles at a time.

I bought one of Hosuluk's adapters for my first handle then turned one out of aluminium, then found a design on Cindy Drozda's site. This is a modification of her design using thicker tube.

If you want even heavier for hollowing and hoggin material you can put a plug in the tube from the end and fill it with shot and cap it. I have not felt the need.

[Dale Gillaspy]

If you cut down the handle for the ferrule, then go to the bandsaw and cut several slits to form splines.....then take an ordinary hose clamp and put it around the splines and tighten it down, it will hold the handle tight. Easily removable as well. Just a though.

[Olaf Vogel]

I use aluminum tube for handles - 1" OD with 1/8" sidewall. I then buy 3/4" aluminium rod and cut it to about 3-4" length and drill for whatever size is needed 3/8", 1/2", or 5/8". Epoxy that into the 1" tube and drill and tap for setscrews. Cover with vinyl tubing 1 3/8" OD the type with the webbing in it. Makes a good handle.

This months American Woodturner has an article on custom handles using wood inserts in PVC covered with craft foam and heat-shrink. I tried PVC without the cover before I built my aluminium handles and found them generally too light.

I've found the Hosaluk ferrules to be great, but with metal handles only. (I've read negative comments when using wood handles and have had similar issues).
Personally I use steel tubing handles (MetalSupermarkets.com), because I like the extra heft. I bought a metal drill bit of the right size, stick it in the tail stock and drill the tubing to a smooth, correct ID. Tap in threads for set screws to hold the ferrules in place securely.

The handles in are wrapped with 1/4" rope, to the desired thickness (kinda like this
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vd7RChZkRWE/S8iYf_7K52I/AAAAAAAAMS8/ON0RYoKSm7Y/s1600/CIMG8426+%28Small%29.JPG
then covered in hockey tape. Not as pretty, but very grippy, cheap and easy.

[Dave Mueller]

I like removable handles, especially for travelling and demos, so I came up with this one after grazing through the plumbing section at Lowes.


It is made from two 1/2" flare fittings - a flare nut and a flare union. You can also get fittings to make one for 3/8". The only machining required is to drill out the union ID to 1/2" diameter, which can be done on a wood lathe, and then cut three equally spaced slots in the union so it will more easily close down on the tool. It works surprisingly well, considering it only cost about $7 for the fittings. For the 1/2" handle, first drill a 3/4" hole 3/4" deep in the end of the handle for the union and epoxy it in the hole. Make sure it is coaxial with the handle (you can use a live center for this). Then drill the 1/2" hole through the end of the fitting into the handle about 3". Finally, cut the three slots and you're done. This should be published in the AAW journal hints section in June.

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[Doug W Swanson]

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/content.php?133-Tool-handles-for-my-new-Thompson-Tools!

I made some similar to what Thom was talking about (check out my article here). These are cheap enough that I just made one for every tool. I rarely change the tools out anymore....

[John K Jordan]

George, a collet with a hole drilled the size of the tool shaft and a couple of set screws to hold it would work far better. These have a smaller diameter section which is glued into a hole drilled into the handle. They are available from several tool and handle people but I make my own with metal working tools. Without a metal-cutting lathe you can still make one on the wood lathe from brass or aluminum using HSS tools, but it is a bit tedious. I haven't made collets this way but I have turned a bunch of brass and aluminum on the Jet 1642 mostly using Thompson tools.

JKJ

[James Combs]

I like removable handles, especially for travelling and demos, so I came up with this one after grazing through the plumbing section at Lowes.
It is made from two 1/2" flare fittings - a flare nut and a flare union. You can also get fittings to make one for 3/8". The only machining required is to drill out the union ID to 1/2" diameter, which can be done on a wood lathe, and then cut three equally spaced slots in the union so it will more easily close down on the tool. It works surprisingly well, considering it only cost about $7 for the fittings. For the 1/2" handle, first drill a 3/4" hole 3/4" deep in the end of the handle for the union and epoxy it in the hole. Make sure it is coaxial with the handle (you can use a live center for this). Then drill the 1/2" hole through the end of the fitting into the handle about 3". Finally, cut the three slots and you're done. This should be published in the AAW journal hints section in June.

I Really like this method. Will be using it for my next tool.

[Geoff Whaling]

Ferrules serve to prevent the tool handle from splitting under load. Most turners when they gain experience will not overly stress their tools but we all occasionally have a catch which will transmit significant stress through the ferrule to the tool handle. How much stress depends upon many factors, tool overhang past the tool rest, the torque forces applied by the work piece to the tool tip, length of tool handle etc. Some shop made tool handle / ferrule designs are not as strong as they look.

Sometimes it pays to sacrifice a shop made tool handle by doing some potentially destructive testing. Use a length of the available "cheap" HSS tool blanks and install it in your ferrule & tool handle. Make a temporary testing rig to replicate the tool overhang, tool rest setup on the lathe and apply some force to the handle. Start off with little force then up the ante until you can give it a quite sharp and fast blow to see how your shop made handle performs. If it survives its probably OK. If it fails well think what might have been if it happened on the lathe.

Caution - Please use a face shield if you choose to test in this manner - just in case the "cheap" HSS blank shatters.