Best Router Bit for edge jointing?

[Allan Speers]

For small projects I quite enjoy jointing an edge with a hand plane. - But there are times when the job is too big for a hand jointer, or you just don't feel well, etc, so -

I'd like to do some of my final edges with a router, on my Track system. (It's always a good idea to rip slightly over width, let the stock sit for a few days, and then come back & tweak the edges, anyway.) The nice thing with the track is that you can safely go in the "wrong" direction, bit spinning away from the stock, for a better finish.

However, I'm not sure which bit would be best:
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Does the diameter of the bit have an effect on the final finish?

For instance, Whiteside makes 2" long straight bits with 1/2" 3/4" and 1" cutting diameters. Does the 1" diameter have any advantages over the narrower versions, in my specific application?

Would it run cooler?
Would there be a different (advantageous) angle where the edge meets the wood?
Less chatter, maybe?
Would it last longer?
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Also, are there any other considerations, affecting which bit one might choose? (For a bit used ONLY for edge jointing, not plunging.)

For example, they make regular straight bit, and also "CNC" straight bits. What's the difference, and would it be a factor for my application?

For another example, in a 1/2" diameter 2" long bit, they offer both the 1073 and the 1073-01, with the latter looking identical but costing more money. What the heck is the difference?

And what about spiral cutters, or even those expensive "compression" bits? I know they are better for plunge cuts, but are they a waste for an edge?

[Jerry Miner]

For your application, a larger diameter is preferable, IME. Larger diameter = shallower exit angle = less chip-out, smoother surface. I would prefer a 1" over a 1/2" bit. You may still get some chatter -- due to vibration of the machine, runout of the bit/collet/motor assembly, etc. Pay attention to feed rate--it will also affect surface quality. Doesn't really replace a jointer, IMHO, but many find router-jointing acceptable.

Whiteside's 1073-01 has a longer shank than the 1073. Otherwise, I think they are identical.

[David Linnabary]

I would definitely go with spiral bits, I have a friend who does nearly all his edge jointing on a long router table that stays setup for just that one purpose.

David

[Al Launier]

Another thing to consider is the SFPM for each of these size bits. Assuming the router runs at 25,000 RPM, then the SFPM for these bits would be:
1/2" = 3273 SFPM
3/4" = 4909 SFPM
1" = 6545 SFPM
Quite a "bit" of diffrerence! These speeds could have a direct bearing on the finish, or perhaps burning, depending on the type of wood in terms of the hardness, type/direction of grain, moisture content, etc. Some experimentation on a scrap piece might be in ordrer first to decide.

[glenn bradley]

Sounds as if you are face jointing by hand to achieve a flat reference surface. Edge jointing by router yields the best result for me with the largest diameter bit possible and a lower speed of rotation and feed. This only applies if I expect to do a minimum of additional work following the jointing procedure. If I will hand plane, scrape of even sand the surface following the operation, pretty much any good sharp straight bit will do the job at the router table. If I will be doing this in a handheld router and want a minimum of additional work following the machine operation, the bit and my technique become more important. The new combo-spirals from Whiteside seem to be the peak of the technology right now but, the thickness is limited to an inch or so. I use a Whiteside 7/8" top/bottom bearing bit for this task but, almost nothing I make goes from machine to finished without some additional attention.

[Prashun Patel]

I run into this situation myself. Ironically, I find the wider, longer edges more suited to hand-jointing, but to each his own.

When I was considering your solution, I found some people use end mills for this. These come in longer lengths which apparently can work in a hand-held router for jointing work.

With any long bit, there is a risk of snapping. So IMHO, the wider the better. This of course means you need a router with good power.

Know too that there are some stories of end mills snapping due to poor quality. Just know your risks.

I humbly submit that if you already have a track system, and are facile with hand planes, then a more efficient method might be to butt up your rough milled edges together and rip with your track saw, and finally just take some hand-smoothing passes to remove any teeth marks. On big pieces, I find this method more efficient.

[pat warner]

Cutter as short as the work is thick, helix leaves clean top & bottom corners, high effieciency, diameter = 5/8" min., waste/pass <.020".
Work must be flat, templet or fence square, straight and flat too.

[Bryan Wiesendahl]

I recently did some pattern routing off of 1/2" MDF templates in 8/4 walnut milled to 1 3/4". I first followed the MDF with a top bearing 3/4" bit, and then routed the rest with a 1/2" bottom bearing trim bit. The difference is very noticeable, with the 3/4" cutter providing a much better surface finish.

In my experience, the wider the better, and if the tip speed is too high you can slow your router down.

I think the laminate pattern bits have a different geometry, too. One that doesn't play as well with solid wood. Could be talking out my ass though, unless someone wants to confirm.

[Steve Jenkins]

Second the reccomendation to use a spiral bit. Once you try one you will avoid straight bits whenever possible. No grabbing or tear out

[Rick Johnston]

For a router table and 1/4" shank. Which spiral bit preferred with emphasis for edge jointing? Up or down?
For 5q material the spiral bit should work much better as my 3/4" straight but but only has a 1" cutting surface. Anything more than 1" is not good anyway.

[Allan Speers]

Great stuff, guys, thanks.

good to know that short is better. I was going to get a 2 1/2" bit for those rare times I need to prep 8/4 stock. - but those times are so rare, and the amount of work so small, that I'll just hand joint them.

So I guess I'mm looking for a ~ 1", wide diameter spiral or compression bit.
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Pat Warner, You said to keep the bit as short as possible. Just for simplicity, I rather have one bit-type to reach for. The Whiteside UDP9112 compression bit (below) looks to be da' goods, but at $150 I can't justify buying another shorter one just for 1/2" stock. Do you possibly see any downside to this being my only edge-jointing bit?

(In my Eurekazone track system track, I typically use a DW618 with the plunge mount. I assume that's enough power for even the toughest woods, but I also have an unused Milwaukee 5625 sitting on the shelf, if you think I'll need it. (I really should sell that beast, as I never built a table for it.)

http://www.amazon.com/Whiteside-UDP9112-Ultimate-Spiral-Pattern/dp/B009102EPY/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1428540342&sr=1-1&keywords=whiteside+spiral+bits


- I don't need the bearing, but at $150 it's probably nice to have, just in case.
Oddly, Whiteside also make a seemingly identical bit, but with both top & bottom bearings, for the exact same price.

[pat warner]

If the jointing is for joining, I would not use a compression design.
It leaves a high and noticeable center.
Helix is my first choice = gentle and lady like surfaces.
For jointing, would always use the biggest motor I could.
Vibration and chatter are your enemies; small motors exaggerate both phenomena.

[Allan Speers]

Thanks, Pat. Odd, because I haven't seen that mentioned anywhere else.

( and just when I thought I knew what was going on ..... )



- but what's a helix bit? Do you mean a mortise cutter?

[Rick Johnston]

On a router table is the up feed design best as it will pull the work to the table? It will be a 1/4" bit.

[pat warner]

"- but what's a helix bit? Do you mean a mortise cutter? "
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A well known design described in any cutter catalog. Not for morticing.
Helix, tho twisted like a spiral, is essentially a straight (slo-spiral) sided flute leaning into the work at some shallow angle. Much higher efficiency than a straight 90° bit, cheaper (because it is welded to HSS), leaves top & bottom corners unfurled too. Not a large selection but would start at WMC.

[Allan Speers]

Hey Pat,

I sure do appreciate your time. It's great to get a response form da' MAN himself. :)

However, I still have no idea what you mean by a "helix" bit. Whiteside doesn't make any (except helix mortise bits) and I Googled " WMC helix bit" and got nothing.

Where exactly can one find these things?

[pat warner]

2602 & 2606 at Whiteside. (AKA: down/up shear in some cases).
And , ya know, maybe they have changed the names.
Used to be synonymous. I.e. helix = down shear.