Dennis Peacock's DC wireless switch

[Larry Browning]

I have been studying Dennis Peacock's wireless DC switch. I have decided I need to make one of these. I have a couple of questions. Would it be possible to use some of the components in the magnetic switch that came with the gorilla for the contactor? If not, I was thinking that since I have a 2hp unit instead of the 5hp unit that Dennis has, a 25 or 30 amp contactor rather than 40 amp would be more approprate for my situation. Is that right?

Larry

[Jim Becker]

Larry, I am using a 25amp 240v contactor for my 2hp Commercial. The 125v side can be switched by pretty much "anything", including cheap consumer wireless switches. (Personally, I'm using a regular wall switch centrally located in the shop...bagged the remotes and don't miss them)

[Larry Browning]

Concerning those wireless switches. If power is lost, how does the wireless switch operate when power is restored? Would it still be off or would it remember where is was when then power was lost? If it remembered, how would you turn it off while the power was still lost so that it would not come back on when power was restored?

[Tyler Howell]

Larry the contactor is spring loaded.

The type you want is with (N.O.) normally open cantacts.
The device will shut off if power is lost.

Your magnetic switch is probably more valuable in its complete state, and can be used on another tool.
Contactors aren't too $$$.

[Dennis Peacock]

Larry,

The cost difference between a 25 amp contactor and a 40 amp contactor is less than $1....at least that's the difference here at my local motor shop. $17 for the contactor and it should last close to forever!!!

When the power goes off on my setup? The contactor opens and when power is restored...nothing starts up or runs because the circuit is broken by the N.O. Contactor. I did mine the way I did it because I wanted replacement parts to be simple, easy to find / replace and most of all cheap to build and service. You don't have to go wireless....but I sure do like it!!! :D

[Larry Browning]

Tyler,
I thought about that after I posted. As it turns out, my planer could use a magnetic switch.

[Larry Browning]

When the power goes off on my setup? The contactor opens and when power is restored...nothing starts up or runs because the circuit is broken by the N.O. Contactor. I did mine the way I did it because I wanted replacement parts to be simple, easy to find / replace and most of all cheap to build and service. You don't have to go wireless....but I sure do like it!!! :D

Dennis,
So that means that the wireless switch also comes up with the power switched off?

[Tyler Howell]

Dennis,
So that means that the wireless switch also comes up with the power switched off?
In a mannor of speaking yes. The remote is a fancy N.O. push button.
All the wireless units I have worked with have a small relay in them to control the 110VAC.
Like the contactor, when power is off, relay opens and no 110VAC flows to the load. A push of the wireless remote ON button is required to close the relay again.

[John Bush]

Hello All,
I just completed my DC cyclone install and I'm interested in info on autogates. The unit is in an attached shed, so I plan on letting it run continuously while in the shop as the noise level won't be so limiting. I would like to spoil myself even more with autogates so I don't have to bend over to open gates on the bigger machines. All I've seen are the Ecogates and a couple examples of homemade varieties. Does anyone have experience/info with autogates?
Thanks, John.

[Chris Padilla]

Larry,

Check:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=9933 and look at the last 5 or 6 posts. I show a pic of the remote device Dennis used. He opened my eyes to the world of contactors!

I am going to use some contactors with a 24 V coil on them to control some 240 V motors on my pool system. I hate the mechanical timers that only come in 24-hour format so the solution: simple 7-day timers used for sprinkler systems (they supply the 24 V) and now I can turn the pool pumps on every other day instead of every day.

John,

The Ecogates are nice but pricey suckers, eh!? Especially the 6" ones! :eek: I think what you want is a way for the gates to open when you turn the machine on, right? Well, in your case, the first trick is to get some kind of a motor that opens the gate for you. The second trick is to get that gate to open when you flip the motor on. I haven't done any research on the first trick but I bet a purchase of one of the Ecogates will help you there. Dunno what they use but probably some kind of a DC motor.

The second trick, I think, can be accomplished a number of ways but two that strike me are: contactors and ferrite cores. A contactor with the appropriate coil could be wired into the switch on the machine such that when the machine turns out, it activates the contactor coil which in turn can turn on the motor that opens the DC gate. A ferrite core or torroid could be wrapped with the wire feeding the motor such that a current gets induced into the coil with then induces a current in another wire wrapped in the torroid and that could signal a gate to open. Another way is some sensor that senses the vibration of the machine when it is turned on. Frankly, I think the contactor idea is probably the way to go.

Some hobbyiests want the DC to turn on when they open a gate...that is a whole 'nuther nut but involves placing switches on the gates themselves.

I just went with the remote control unit. I click the remote, the DC turns on, and I turn on my machine and make my cut.

[Dan Stuewe]

Since I don't know any better...why build one of these when you can get a Long Ranger for $70?

("its fun" is a perfectly good answer)

[Tyler Howell]

Since I don't know any better...why build one of these when you can get a Long Ranger for $70?

("its fun" is a perfectly good answer)
It's Fun and you can make it for a few less $$ if you scrounge parts. ;)

[Jim Becker]

Since I don't know any better...why build one of these when you can get a Long Ranger for $70?

In addition to what Tyler said, both the Long Ranger and X10 based systems have 20 amperage limits that get "really close" with the 2hp systems and are not useable with the 3hp and up systems. I blew out three 20a X10 based switches before throwing in the towel and building the (cheaper) contactor-based setup.

[Chris Padilla]

Yep, what Jim said...my Leeson compressor motor for the DC is rated 5 HP (probably 3 HP in reality) and the Ranger just can't handle that. Now if they had a beefier one, I might have gone for it instead of what I built. However, what I built was fun and quite simple and I learned quite a bit...enough to use the idea elsewhere around the house.