Need help with Remote Control Transmitter Switch mystery

[Ron Kanter]

Bought a Woodcraft remote control transmitter switch to use with my dust collector.
Unfortunately it doesn't work.
Power unit lights up.
Remote flashes when button is pressed.
Replaced the battery. Tried to power three different machines using a confirmed hot AC line. Nothing.
Weird thing is that a continuity tester shows the power outlet in the controller is hot, but it will not provide power to anything that I plug into it.
I have the exact same controller that worked fine for years. One day it just stopped working. Couldn't figure out why. Put it away for a few weeks and then tried it again. It worked fine for a few more months then stopped working again.That is why I bought the new controller.

Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Ron

[Dan Hintz]

Weird thing is that a continuity tester shows the power outlet in the controller is hot, but it will not provide power to anything that I plug into it.

First, continuity testers test for broken/unbroken wires... I believe you mean a voltage tester. And if you're getting (the proper) voltage at the socket, how is it possible it's not able to power anything?

[Lee Schierer]

Weird thing is that a continuity tester shows the power outlet in the controller is hot, but it will not provide power to anything that I plug into it.


Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Ron

If your continuity tester is showing the contacts are closing then you have a problem with the wiring to your power source feeding those contacts.

[Ron Kanter]

Thanks for the replies.
I was using a continuity tester. It demonstrates that the circuit is unbroken. My power source is good. When connected directly to a machine (not through the controller) there is plenty of power.
Another respondent sent the following information that seems to explain why the light is on but no power is available to run my dust collector - "Just because an indicator says it's "hot" does not mean there is power available. These are transistor switches and typically leak a few milliamps when "off". That will be enough to drive an LED, but definitely not enough to start a motor."
Seems to explain some of the mystery, but not why the thing ain't workin'!

[Edward Oleen]

Does the unit have an over-load trip? By this I mean "does it provide for dropping the load when the current is to high?" If that is the case, then it will "test" fine to a voltmeter, with no load, but open up when the load is applied. And then, of course,.... reset when the load is removed...

Saw it happen once: to ME. It was a bad current sensor. Made in China of course, and I had to scrap it and get another.

I initially diagnosed the problem by measuring the voltage at the machine with the machine switch OFF, and watched it go to zero when I turned it on manually.

I further tested by using low-wattage (= low current draw) light bulbs in parallel and "turning them on" one by one, by screwing them into their sockets.

The unit crapped out at two 20 watt bulbs.