Scraper Woes.

[Joe Unni]

Hey all,

Maybe you all can help. I'm doing a project that I think is small scale enough to practice my scraping skills. I've got a display table top made from birch all glued up. I ran it through my planer and it came out very smooth, but you could still see the planer marks.

So I built a jig that I'd seen recently to hold a new file for sharpening the scraper. Did so and turned the hook. Get to scraping. Beautiful, fluffy shavings coming from this thin piece of metal. I thought I was doing great. When I went to rubbing my hand across the work - rougher than when I'd started. I then proceeded with less pressure - more shavings, but still rough.

What am I doing wrong? I had done some practicing a while ago on some oak and it came out very smooth.

Also, what's the technique for starting the scraper and NOT leavng a mark where you begin to push?

I look forward to your responses.

Regards,
-joe

[Dan Moening]

what's the technique for starting the scraper and NOT leavng a mark where you begin to push?

Excellent question Joe. And shows your skill level to notice this, not many people have every asked.

IME it has been a matter of gradually applying pressure as I move into the stroke. And gradually easing off as I approach the end of the stroke.

I tend to work the ends of boards closely and carefully {not including them in a full, long, heavy stroke}. Reason is that I can create a nice ramp here as I'm easing off the stroke so as not to crush the fibers at the end of the board.

I've become adept at pushing as well as pulling these devices and recommend you do as well. Being able to work from either side really helps, also relieves the pressure on your thumbs.

As for the fuzzyness, maybe you're taking too much off at a time?
Too much pressure?
Wrong blade angle?
Too heavy a burr hook?

All these nuances can be easily manipulated by your hands...sometimes without your knowledge ;). Something just comes together and you go oooooooh it's working!

BTW a handplane is great for this application.

Enough rambling...time for a second cup of coffee.

[Mark Singer]

Read the dirction of the grain....sounds like your pulling up fibers by going the wrong way....the advantage of the scaraper is you can push or pull as required to go with the grain. Try less hook and a lower angle...arc the scraper as you push to blend the strokes

[Derek Cohen]

Joe

Are you jointing the scraper blade at the highest grit level you are able (e.g. 6000 or 8000 waterstone), or are you only using a file? Like a plane blade, a serrated edge will leave a rough surface, no matter how "sharp" it appears or how fine the shavings it is capable of making.

The other technique I use is to PULL the scraper blade towards oneself. This keeps it flat on the surface and avoids it digging in, as when you push it away (since the blade then will be curved with thumb pressure).

Lastly, a too large a burr might also do the damage, but you mention taking fine shavings, so this is less likely.

To avoid leaving chatter marks, I do not apply much pressure on the edge of the blade until it has gained momentum and is already cutting a shaving.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Joe Unni]

I tend to work the ends of boards closely and carefully {not including them in a full, long, heavy stroke}. Reason is that I can create a nice ramp here as I'm easing off the stroke so as not to crush the fibers at the end of the board.

I'm not sure I understand this.



I've become adept at pushing as well as pulling these devices and recommend you do as well. Being able to work from either side really helps, also relieves the pressure on your thumbs.

I'll give it a try.



BTW a handplane is great for this application.

Not even close to trying that!!http://sawmillcreek.org/images/smilies/wink.gif



Read the dirction of the grain.....sounds like your pulling up fibers by going the wrong way....the advantage of the scaraper is you can push or pull as required to go with the grain. Try less hook and a lower angle...arc the scraper as you push to blend the strokes

The grain. The top is pretty straight grained birch sapwood. But I will try the less hook/lower angle. Not sure I understand "arc the scraper..."



Are you jointing the scraper blade at the highest grit level you are able (e.g. 6000 or 8000 waterstone), or are you only using a file?

That's a first for me. Don't have any waterstones (yet), but I suspect higher grade sandpaper would work?

Thanks for all the responses thus far. If I can complete the piece that I'm speaking about in time, it will be submitted to a local art auction with 200+ dedicated buyers in attendence. I hope to getting a digital camera very soon. I'd love to share the photos with you all.

-joe

[Donnie Raines]

Take a look at the link below...see if that aids you at all.

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00007.asp

[Joe Unni]

Thanks Donnie. Very helpful.

-joe

[Don Baer]

All of this talk about scrapers got me thinking about reducing my sandpaper usage so Last Friday I stopped by the local WW Store and picked up a spokeshave. I played with it over the weekend and all I can say is WOW what a differance. Now I just gotta get the Old Stanley #5 in decent shape and I'll be headed in the right direction.

(Slipping into the dark side).....:eek: