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Jim Lankford
04-04-2015, 9:21 AM
Hi guys! New turner here. Wondering what is desired MC for turning and finishing? Thanks!

charlie knighton
04-04-2015, 9:56 AM
depends on what is desired result

bowls....do you want it to warp or not???
if not, rough turn about 1 inch thick, let dry for a couple months, til the weigh stays the same over 3 or 4 days, then return

hf.......the shape will hold the form pretty much, turn to desired thichness
if perfectionist, do the same as bowls

sanding.....wet wood does not sand well.....generally, put finished piece in place with no air movement for a couple days , then hand sand
you can power sand which will help dry the wood

many varirations like dna, boiling,etc....

where you live will have some effect on what works for you....that is the key, what works for you

Paul Gilbert
04-04-2015, 10:59 AM
Bowls - freshly cut wood cuts the easiest and is usually free.
Boxes with lids - kiln dried wood or thoroughly air dried wood ~8% or less.
Hollow forms - unless they are segmented they are nearly always turned green as large dimension lumber is expensive and hard to find.
Spindles - pepper grinders, chair parts, goblets, and pens generally require kiln dried lumber. Candle sticks could be made from green wood, but you never can be sure that they won't warp into a curve. I like to make thin stemmed goblets from green branch wood and watch the stem warp to 20 - 30 degrees from vertical.

Thom Sturgill
04-04-2015, 11:41 AM
I pretty much agree with Paul. I do goblets from dry wood though.

John Jordan has said that if he had to turn dry wood, he would not be a woodturner. He also says that we turn green wood not only because it cuts so easily, but because that is the best way to capture the fresh colors.

Twice turned bowls and Hollow Forms are generally re-turned when dry to ambient humidity. Down here that is pretty wet.

Reed Gray
04-04-2015, 1:08 PM
Lidded boxes are ones that need special care. I never finish turn them on first time. Turn to rough size, hollow, tape the bottoms together so you don't get them mixed up, then let them sit for a month or 6. Dry wood, especially anything over about an inch thick, will need to 'adjust' to having stock removed and to allow the middle to come to equilibrium. I like my bowls to warp as much as possible, and as has already been said, sanding wet wood takes extra work. Sanding a warped bowl is difficult unless your lathe can go down to about 20 rpm.

robo hippy

daryl moses
04-04-2015, 10:09 PM
Because I am a "tree farmer" most of the wood I turn is green. [because it's free]
I finish turn all of my bowls then bag them until dry, which usually only takes a few days. Yes, they warp, but personally I love to watch them change.
The only time I use kiln dried wood is for pepper mills, etc.