Veritas Straight Edge: 50" Aluminum v. 36" Steel

[Danny Thompson]

Which of these two Veritas straightedges would you use for the setup a Grizzly G0500 Jointer (8" x 75 1/2" bed) and a SawStop PCS31230-TGP252 (52" right of the blade: 33" x 85 1/4")? The 50" Aluminum (accurate within .003 over the entire length) or 36" Steel (within .0015)? Assume both are sitting on the shelf, but you can only close one.

[Nick Stokes]

I used a carpenters level from home depot to setup my sawstop and grizzly jointer. Worked fine.

[Art Mann]

I own the 38" version of the Veritas aluminum straight edge. I use it all the time to measure things like the flatness of a router table or the straightness of a home made router fence. I originally bought it to set up my jointer and it worked very well for that application. I am not sure I would pay extra for the 50" version because I have had mine for around 10 years and never wished for a longer or more accurate one. I also think the idea of buying a high precision 4 foot level is a good one because that tool would serve double duty.

[Rick Lizek]

36" is too short to align a 75" jointer. I have done jointer tuning professionally and have a 6' steel straight edge.

[Bill Huber]

I like the steel one, that is what I have. The thing I like about it is the fact I came run a feeler gauge under it and it won't move or lift up from the gauge.

[glenn bradley]

I have the 38" LV steel version and a 76" jointer. Setup was not a problem; check each table and then check their relation to each other. Although I try to setup my machines as perfectly as possible I have to be realistic in relation to my shop and my individual needs. A 72" straight edge would be great but, I would not use it enough to warrant the cost. Many folks setup their machines with a milled piece of hardwood which can be reliable long enough to get through a machine setup but, once the wood moves, that's over, and that may be fine. the jointer is the one machine that I have never had to re-align; once set, it has held true for years. The tablesaw and planer have both benefited from a re-alignment over the years and I was very happy to have the straight edge safely tucked away and ready for use. I also use it on all new or replacement machines. All-in-all, even though the price has gone up quite a bit, knowing what I know now I would still buy one and consider it money well spent.

[Bryan Cramer]

The aluminum ones in my opinion are straight enough for woodworking related tasks.

[Harvey Miller]

i voted with my pocketbook for the Aluminum one to setup my sawstop.

[Bill McNiel]

I have the 50" Aluminum and the 24" steel. The 50" gets a little more use but I would prefer to continue to have both.

[Danny Thompson]

Thanks for the feedback, everyone. So, what I am hearing is:

Pro 50": length
Pro 36": heft/resistance when inserting feelers

Follow-up Q's:
- Does anyone think the additional .0015 accuracy is important for jointer setup? I take it most do not.
- Is the aluminum much more vulnerable to movement/accuracy changes over time?
- Is the aluminum too light to work well with feeler guages (2 1/2 lb v. 5 3/4)?
- What would you do with a 36" steel version that you wouldn't do with the 50" aluminum?

[glenn bradley]

Pro 36": heft/resistance when inserting feelers

Correction to my post; the steel one is 36" :o and yes the heft/stability is very satisfying during a long setup session. The last thing I want to do is move the straightedge with a bump or a feeler as I am checking/adjusting.


Follow-up Q's:
- Does anyone think the additional .0015 accuracy is important for jointer setup? I take it most do not.
I'm too picky and even I think .003 is plenty for most things. For machines I'd like better.

- Is the aluminum much more vulnerable to movement/accuracy changes over time?
Only insofar as it is more susceptible to damage from impact.

- Is the aluminum too light to work well with feeler guages (2 1/2 lb v. 5 3/4)?
When trying to slip a feeler that is real close, even the steel one can be moved.

[Frederick Skelly]

In my experience (admittedly hobbyist only), you don't have to set up WW machines to a precision of 0.0015", and probably not to 0.003" either. And honestly, I'll bet that most folks cannot hold a heavy cast iron table steady enough during adjustment/bolt-up to get close to those figures - even if there WAS a measurable benefit. (Metal machining is a different story of course.)

The 50" works fine with my feeler gauges.

[Bryan Cramer]

As for durability the aluminum is less durable. I have seen the ones a school has and they are pretty dinged up from many drops. If you take care of yours it will do just fine. Mine looks like it is brand new after two years. I don't believe accuracy changes over time with any metal straight edge except (especially with the aluminum) after suffering a hard drop. That is why I am careful with mine.(This is also why I don't lend tools!) Again this sums it up: If you take care of yours it will do just fine and last you your lifetime.