Small Farm Tractors...Opinions, Facts, Information....Help

[Rich Riddle]

I need to learn a bit about old tractors and know less than nothing. The type that seems best suited and small have front wheels spread apart. Can any of you old woodworking types lend an idea or two concerning types, brands, what to look for, what to avoid, etc.?

[Ed Aumiller]

Check out www tractorbynet com

Need to know what you want to do with it first....

[Steve Rozmiarek]

What are you doing with it? What implements? What's your favorite color? How old are you thinking is ok, price range? Seriously, a lot of options, a little more info would be helpful.

[jared herbert]

You need to supply a little more information. There are so many older tractors available that we need to know what you plan to use it for, how much you are willing to spend and how much mechanical ability you have in order to be able to give any advice. If you only want one to mow weeds with it would be much different from one that you plan to do actual tillage work with. Do you need a hydraulic system to power a wood splitter or a 3 point hitch to lift implements or a post hole digger? What size implements do you want to pull? Gas or diesel? I have farmed my whole life and have owned and worked with a lot of tractors, some old, some new, some large and some small. Jared

[Rich Riddle]

I have quite a bit of mechanical ability and am looking for a small farm of about 20 acres. More like a "truck farm" use type of tractor. It will be used to keep weeds in check, perform a bit of tillage work, and a post hole digger would prove nice. I have no preference for gas or diesel. It seems like most folks recommend a 3 point hitch, so that's a yes. No wood splitter is needed at this time. Thanks.

[Ken Platt]

+1 on tractorbynet. Great source of information.

[Tom M King]

I started with a new MF 35 hp, but found out in fairly quick order that it wasn't big enough to do much. Even new, I still ended up working on it, and found out that tractors are easy to work on. I've had the same tractor now for probably 20 years, and it had some age on it when I got it. It's around a 1980 model John Deere 70hp low end category 2 with a front end loader. It's large enough to not only move dirt, but shape dirt.

I'm not brand loyal, but my tractor experience says get a major brand name that you have a dealer nearby to get parts from, and do work on it when needed. One good thing about John Deere is that not only do they keep most of the parts in stock, even for the older models like mine, but if they don't have it in stock, it comes in tomorrow with no shipping charges. I'm talking about a tractor dealer used to dealing with farmers, and not a place that sells mainly small equipment.

Picture below is the 2640. It didn't come with a rollbar, but that was one of the first things I added, and welded some brackets on to hold a large wooden top to keep the sun off my bald head, along with lights that turn night into day.

edited to add: I paid 12,500 for it when I bought it, and might have put a couple of thousand back into it since. It rarely lets me down.

[Rich Riddle]

Thanks for all the information and the forum suggestion.

[Mike Cozad]

Great thread and timing. I am I the process of selling my over priced and taxed home in town and looking to buy a small farmstead with a shop and room for a large garden, chickens, etc. I was thinking a little Ford N series tractor for the fun of owning an older small tractor (a resto project for me and my oldest boy). But now you have me thinking I might be setting my sights too low?
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[Jerome Stanek]

8 N's are a nice size good all around tractor

[Curt Harms]

I'd check into parts availability early on. Simple drive trains would be good - no torque amplifiers, hydrostatic drive, that sort of thing unless current or recent production where you can find parts and people that know how to work on them.

[Todd Burch]

A big question is 2WD or 4WD. If you will be lifting logs or doing a lot of heavy work with a front bucket, 4WD is a good option. Makes steering a lot easier. Also, your decision on 2WD vs 4WD might be influenced by what kind of soil and terrain you have. If it's sandy and drains wells, you might be able to get by with a 2WD most of the time. 4WD is a nice added benefit when having to work on wet ground.

A local dealer with a service department is a good thing when things break. They can come out and fix it, or, come out and get it to take it back to the shop to fix it. And, parts will be close to you.

The compact utility tractors are pretty popular. If I had to buy one today for a 20 acre parcel (shredding, dragging stuff around, box blade work on a driveway, fence posts) I would probably opt for a 35-45HP 4WD with a FEL (front end loader) and category 1 hitch with quick attach and high flow hydraulics.

Todd

[Jim Becker]

Don't discount consideration of a newer compact tractor from Kubota, Deere, etc. You can often get a good buy on a trade-in (or zero percent financing on a new one with a full warranty) and they are just as easy to work on than the older machines. I use a Kubota subcompact to maintain our 4 acre property and it's a real workhorse...and even "non-mechanic" me can handle most maintenance and repairs. The diesel engines run "forever", too...

Oh, and don't buy anything with just 2WD. You WILL get stuck at some point and 4WD increases the versatility. IMHO.

[Clarence Martin]

An old Farmall Super M can do anything you need.

[Clarence Martin]

http://www.rustyacresrestoration.com/images/Farmall_Super_M.jpg

[Chuck Wintle]

I need to learn a bit about old tractors and know less than nothing. The type that seems best suited and small have front wheels spread apart. Can any of you old woodworking types lend an idea or two concerning types, brands, what to look for, what to avoid, etc.?

I have always been partial to kubota tractors. Very well made and very good on fuel.

[Chuck Wintle]

http://www.rustyacresrestoration.com/images/Farmall_Super_M.jpg

that one looks nicely restored.

[Jerome Stanek]

those tricycle gear tractors have a habit of roll over.

[Randy Red Bemont]

I have a 48 Ford 8n and it's a great all around tractor. I even mow the grass with a 6' finish mower. Parts are available with no problem. Easy to work on and small/large enough to use anywhere. It has 3 point hitch and pto also.

Red

[Nike Nihiser]

I have a Kubota bx 2230 (22hp) with a FEL 60" midmount mower and a 42" King Kutter tiller. I'm on 10 acres and have had it since new, about 12 years. It cost $13,000 + new and the tiller was $1500. It has been bullet proof and has done everything I need, mostly mowing and moving dirt and gravel. I think the FEL is rated to pick up 350-400 lbs. It has about 1000 hours on it. I am moving to town soon and sold it with my house to the new owner for $8000, similar packages go for up to $11-12,000 at a dealer. No matter what get something with a live pto (the ford 9n, 2n and 8n don't have this). Power steering and 4wd are nice. There is a saying around here that green paint jobs (John Deere) are expensive, but as others have said it's important to be ablr to get parts and service. Another good site is ytmag, a loy of very helpful guys there,

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Been waiting for a minute of free time to post to the threaad, so here goes!

Tractors, like cars have changed a tremendous amount in the last 100 years, and some of the changes make them far more useful. I'll compare a few common ones. First the "M" Farmall. This is the biggest of the lettered Farmall's, but is still only rated at around 35 hp or so. Top speed is around 10 mph or so, with a tail wind and a down slope. M's do not have live PTO, meaning that the PTO shaft shuts off when you clutch. M's have a pulley for flat belt on the right side of the transmission, which is pretty useless these days, but gives an idea of the era. They can be had in gas or diesel, but the diesels (MD) start on gas, then convert to diesel after they are running. M's do not have much hydraulic capacity, think one very slow cylinder only, and three point hitches are aftermarket add ons. Nothing wrong with one, they are reliable, and I have a soft spot for them as one of my first jobs was using one to pull a double bar sickle mower in a hay field. M's were made though WW2 and into the late 40's if I recall correctly. $1000-3500 probably

The next step up from an M (or it's A, B, C, or H brothers) incorporates live PTO and a little better hydraulics. This would be something like a WD Allis Chalmers, a 400 Farmall or a 50 John Deere from the 50's. Some came with three point hitches, most didn't. $2500 to $5500.

In the early 60's, tractor engines really began to improve. Smoother running diesels, and bigger power showed up. This allowed better hydralics, good power steering, and good three points. Several of these would be a 706 International, or a 4010 John Deere. These bring $3500 to 10000.

The 70's brought more refinement, noticeably to transmissions. Power shift of various types showed up. This enabled the operator to shift gears without needing to clutch between gears. As a tractor is usually lugging, shifting on the fly is a major benefit. I'm not aware of any currently produced tractors that don't use power shift of some sort. Power grew in this era, 150 hp tractors became common. $7500-25000.

The 80's saw more refinement, namely the beginning of creature comforts and electronic controls. These tractors when new were good, but as the technology changes so fast, it is impossible to find some of the electronic components new now. Hydrostatic transmissions were tried in various ways, they work well in a few applications. Manual front assist is the big development of this era. Be careful with this vintage. Deals are there to be had in this era, but make sure you understand the potential electrical problems. Education is a must. $5500 to $25000.

The 90's to present have refined the electronics greatly. Fuel economy has improved, creature comforts, and general usefulness have too.

Not knowing what your budget is, your desires to work on the tractor, what you may want to do, make it a little difficult, but I'll mention a few common choices. If you want to have a loader on the front, pull a three point mower, maybe a sickle mower, a sprayer, a wagon, maybe a small tiller or disk, etc., then you would be well served by a 50-75hp full size tractor. It needs to have category 3 three point and 540 rpm at least pto. You'll need three remote hydraulic valves to run a loader with grapple. A cab is nice sometimes, your call. A tractor like Toms 2640 is good, as would a 756 International, or something similar. Expect to pay up to $25,000 probably with a loader. If you add MFD (manual front drive), even better, but it will add another 10k to the cost.

If you have a different price point, say 15K, consider a 706 International, or a 4010 John Deere.

You will have a bunch wrapped up in implements before it's over too, but you don't have to buy all at once. I suggest using category 3 or 4 three point because that's what us farmers use, and used stuff is plentiful and doesn't have the urban horse hobby farm markup. 540 PTO for simplicity is fine, some equipment is better served by 1000 though. You will want to make sure your tractor has a good hydraulic system as most things require it these days. This is the glitch to tractors from the early time frame. Add on hydraulic pumps can be had, but it's easier to just avoid the problem. Loaders are all add ons, and there are dozens of manufacturers for practically anything. May take a little searching for the right one, but they exist.

If you want new, Deere, Kubota, Bobcat, New Holland, and others all make decent estate tractors. Expensive though 50,000 and up . Farmers buy new equipment for depreciation, which may be attractive to you.

Have you considered a skid steer? I use tractors every day, but when I'm taking care of the acreage around the house, I prefer a skid steer of some sort. Much more maneuverable, and endless options for adaptations.

[Tom M King]

A few more points: Hooking something up to the 3-point hitch is one of the most aggravating, and dangerous parts about operating a tractor. I had quick hitch hooks on the 35 hp tractor, but if the implement wasn't sitting on ground level with the tractor they were a PIA. What I like much better are the telescopic drag links (lower arms of the 3-point hitch) that the JD has. You back up close, pull the pop pin up, slide the arm out, and slip it over the implement pin. Get back on the tractor, back up to let the pop pins drop back in place with the drag links all the way back in, then hook up the top link.

Another thing that saves a lot of work shifting gears is a power shifter, also called shuttle shift by some manufacturers. It's a little lever to the left of the steering wheel that you can flip back and forth with your left little finger to go from forward to reverse. I wouldn't want a loader without one. The only bad thing about those is when you get back in the truck, and go to back up. You will look backwards over the seat, and flip the signal lever down every time, then realize that you aren't in reverse.

After using these two things, I consider them essential to have on a tractor.

[Jerome Stanek]

I have an old Kabota in fact it is the first one that was sold in our county and a newer ford the difference between the 2 are night and day. Both are in the 25 hp range but the ford is a lot heavier and easier to run as it has power steering and 4 wheel drive it also has the correct ground speed for my mower the Kabota is either to slow or to fast for the flail mower to do a good job. The best thing you can do is try it on your land to see how it works. That is what I did when I was looking for a new tractor and the Ford fit my needs better than the Deere, Case or Kabota that I tried.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

A few more points: Hooking something up to the 3-point hitch is one of the most aggravating, and dangerous parts about operating a tractor. I had quick hitch hooks on the 35 hp tractor, but if the implement wasn't sitting on ground level with the tractor they were a PIA. What I like much better are the telescopic drag links (lower arms of the 3-point hitch) that the JD has. You back up close, pull the pop pin up, slide the arm out, and slip it over the implement pin. Get back on the tractor, back up to let the pop pins drop back in place with the drag links all the way back in, then hook up the top link.

Another thing that saves a lot of work shifting gears is a power shifter, also called shuttle shift by some manufacturers. It's a little lever to the left of the steering wheel that you can flip back and forth with your left little finger to go from forward to reverse. I wouldn't want a loader without one. The only bad thing about those is when you get back in the truck, and go to back up. You will look backwards over the seat, and flip the signal lever down every time, then realize that you aren't in reverse.

After using these two things, I consider them essential to have on a tractor.

LOL, for sure on the reverser memory! Ridiculous how long it takes to forget that too. Tom, I think you may have had something wrong with your quick hitch or something. All you need to do is get the lower hooks lower than the bottom implement pins, and level shouldn't matter as long as the implement hadn't rocked back. A quick hitch that's working right should grab a piece of equipment as fast as you can back up to it and raise the three point.

I forgot that Rich had asked about narrow front vs wide front tractors. Wide is far better for practically everything. Narrow will turn sharper without using the steering brakes, but in the real world it's irrelevant. Narrow front can become unstable a lot easier.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

I have an old Kabota in fact it is the first one that was sold in our county and a newer ford the difference between the 2 are night and day. Both are in the 25 hp range but the ford is a lot heavier and easier to run as it has power steering and 4 wheel drive it also has the correct ground speed for my mower the Kabota is either to slow or to fast for the flail mower to do a good job. The best thing you can do is try it on your land to see how it works. That is what I did when I was looking for a new tractor and the Ford fit my needs better than the Deere, Case or Kabota that I tried.

The new kubota's are way better. The old ones were a little spartan. Almost as bad as a belarus, but not quite...

[Rich Riddle]

LOL, for sure on the reverser memory! Ridiculous how long it takes to forget that too. Tom, I think you may have had something wrong with your quick hitch or something. All you need to do is get the lower hooks lower than the bottom implement pins, and level shouldn't matter as long as the implement hadn't rocked back. A quick hitch that's working right should grab a piece of equipment as fast as you can back up to it and raise the three point.

I forgot that Rich had asked about narrow front vs wide front tractors. Wide is far better for practically everything. Narrow will turn sharper without using the steering brakes, but in the real world it's irrelevant. Narrow front can become unstable a lot easier.
Yes, the lot has quite a few hills and tipping over could happen. Therefore, a wider front end proves important. Thanks for all the information about hitches. That's also something to consider.

[daryl moses]

Love my little Yanmar 4 wheel drive with a FEL. Very handy here on my mini farm.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v457/darylmoses/P3160072.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/darylmoses/media/P3160072.jpg.html)

[Rich Riddle]

Do the imports stack up well against the American models? Are most of the imports Japanese, Chinese, or Korean?

[Curt Harms]

Mahindra - I know absolutely nothing about them but a radio ad said they were made in the U.S. I thought they were Indian.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Russian, Indian, and imports are typically less refined. EU company imports are pretty good usually as are Japanese. If you wouldn't buy a car from a country, the tractors aren't much different. Kubota for example went from an import to at least a partial domestic and dramatically improved its quality. Parts availability is a bit like Delta's for some of them. Make sure you can easily get parts from several sources.

We had a local Belarus (Russian) dealer here who sold a lot of tractors. Parts were available usually from them, but after they went out of business, it left a fleet of orphan tractors in the area. Parts can be ordered in from an importer, but sometimes you don't have two weeks to wait for a simple thing. A local dealer that knows what you are trying to tell him you need can be a wonderful thing.

We have made the best tractors here for a very long time, and some common parts have become almost universal for them. The imports use screwy size hard lines for hydraulics for example, the domestics use stuff that can be sourced practically anywhere. Filters, electrical components, even bolts are the same. If you need service on something, you can expect a cheaper and better result from a local dealer usually too. The mechanics that work in the dealerships move around, so a general knowledge of the more common machines of all makes exist in most dealerships.

Rich, are you leaning towards anything in particular?

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Mahindra - I know absolutely nothing about them but a radio ad said they were made in the U.S. I thought they were Indian.

Mahindra is made in India.

[Ryan Mooney]

The small baby homeowner tractors tend to cost more than more industrial sized machines on the used market. Part of this is because the industrial machines will have more hours (sometimes a LOT more hours - check that) and part of it is that the homeowner sized stuff is in general high demand so it tends to hold its value pretty well.

The mini Yanmar tractors from the 80s-early 90s like Daryl has (correction I see his is a Ym220D which was officially imported and unusual for that era) are John Deeres by another color and can be had with low hours for comparably reasonable prices (they were often used on small holdings in japan and often didn't get a lot of hours). Getting support for them can be hit and miss because they're "grey" market tractors that aren't officially supported by the mfg (there are new yanmars that are) but they seem to just run forever if you do at least the minimal maintenance (and the yanmar motors were widely used so there tend to be parts available). My last tractor was a YM1500D and at 25HP was plenty on a 5 acre place, moved big honkin rocks, tilled the pasture/garden, tilled and flattened the neighbors arena, etc.. sometimes I had to take it a bit slower than I would have if I'd had a big tractor but overall was quite happy with it (sold it with the property). Also a plus is that if fit through the garden gate without having to widen the gate :D IMHO the 1500D would be a bit on the small side for your purposes.

One thing you have to remember on the smaller tractors (and some of the midsized/bigger ones depending on how they're built) is that the front end loader is a loader, not an earth digger and trying to pull dirt up with it is likely to cause some problems. You can LIFT dirt or rocks or whatever already in a pile but trying to dig into unloosened dirt will tear something up. Your best friend for that on a mini tractor is a box blade, and it'll make your life a lot easier on a bigger tractor as well - definitely get a box blade. You can't understand how incredibly handy a box blade is until you've had one.

A backhoe attachment is handy, a buddy has the kubota BX25 with one and its handy as all get out (which imho is a bit light for the price a used L series would be imho a better all around tractor). However if I needed to do a LOT of earth moving, I'd probably opt for a smaller tractor and add a loader/backhoe in the size range of a case 580 or JD310 (or even a baby dozer depending on the project) since its a whole different type of machine and then re-sell it when done.

[Keith Outten]

My first tractor was an eleven HP Kubota diesel. It had a FEL but would only lift about 400 pounds. It did have a live PTO and at the end of the day it was capable of a lot of work as long as I took my time.

I now own a John Deere 4105 forty HP 4WD diesel with an FEL and a long list of attachments, the latest are a 74" tiller and a cultivator I recently purchased for my garden. The FEL will lift about 1400 pounds. The 4105 fits my small six acre place well and is capable of unloading material and machines when I get deliveries for my sign shop.

[Mike Lassiter]

Don't discount consideration of a newer compact tractor from Kubota, Deere, etc. You can often get a good buy on a trade-in (or zero percent financing on a new one with a full warranty) and they are just as easy to work on than the older machines. I use a Kubota subcompact to maintain our 4 acre property and it's a real workhorse...and even "non-mechanic" me can handle most maintenance and repairs. The diesel engines run "forever", too...

Oh, and don't buy anything with just 2WD. You WILL get stuck at some point and 4WD increases the versatility. IMHO.
I have the same belief. If you use a front end loader there will come a time when you have a full bucket of (whatever) and need to back up going uphill. Or lifting something heavy that even on flat level ground will cause the weight on the rear wheels to not be enough to give traction. I have a 4720 John Deere cab tractor with dual rear wheel weights on each rear tire and fluid in them as well. I would have been either stuck or unable to travel the direction I needed to without MFWD. I have watched a rear tire spinning on top of the ground on level ground in it more than a few times doing loader work. It is a must have for me with the things I get into sometimes.

[Jesse Busenitz]

Steve I don't know all the differences between a M and Super M but we have a Spr M trike and that thing does at least 20 MPH.... Yeah kinda stupid. I was just using that thing the other day to drill some post holes. Trike comes in handy to position your auger in the back, as you almost have zero turning, using the brakes:-) We also have two 4020s and I think they are the best all around farm chore tractor, maybe a bit bit for a hobby user. Also to who ever said 4-wheel drive is better..... Yeah you can get out of more, but you also can get stuck worse....DAMHIKT

[Don Corbeil]

I have a very similar tractor, a JD 4120, and have been using it for 2 years now. I got it used (less than 200 hrs) and a few implements from a divorcee who was unloading the ex hubbie's farm tools. It was a steal. Does everything I ask of it, and more. It has a 400X FEL which was necessary for our needs. For implements I have a JD brush hog, which gets a ton of use, a box blade, a three spear hay fork, and a V-plow for irrigation ditch work. It came with a quick attach on both front and rear, something which I strongly recommend. The 40 HP 4WD is a good amount of power & grab for most everything we use it for on our land.

Edit:
Rich - I know the JD's tend to cost more, but ours has been a workhorse w/out problems. Based on what you say you want to use it for, a brush hog might be an essential implement for 20 acres. I've cut everything from pasture grass to 2" diameter oak brush. It's a heck of a tool for clearing. Just make sure the kids and pets are inside - I've hit rocks and other debris unintentionally which were then sent flying at high velocity our from under the tool. It would have inflicted serious injury to anything that was standing around.


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[Jebediah Eckert]

My first tractor was an eleven HP Kubota diesel. It had a FEL but would only lift about 400 pounds. It did have a live PTO and at the end of the day it was capable of a lot of work as long as I took my time.

I now own a John Deere 4105 forty HP 4WD diesel with an FEL and a long list of attachments, the latest are a 74" tiller and a cultivator I recently purchased for my garden. The FEL will lift about 1400 pounds. The 4105 fits my small six acre place well and is capable of unloading material and machines when I get deliveries for my sign shop.


+1. I have the same setup and am happy with it. I shopped all the brand and they all had zero percent financing. I wasn't sure if I was going to use it or not. I soon found out all the prices I was quoted went up a few thousand if I took any part of the financing. John Deere didn't care if I did or didn't. Decision made. All the major brands make quality tractors.

[Jim Becker]

Picking a new or used compact tractor relative to brand really needs to revolve around the local dealer environment. Being able to access service and parts is important. Where I am, there are three Kubota dealers within 10 miles of my house. There is a New Holland dealer about 15 miles away. The (new) Deere dealer is about 17 miles away, but didn't exist back in 2002 when I was making my deal. You can imagine what color you see the most around here, including in my driveway. I actually bought my current machine (BX22) from the dealership that's across the Delaware river because they offered more in trade and a better discount than the most local dealer...to the tune of about $2000 aggregate better price. If there was more of a "green" dealer presence, I likely could have been just as happy with a Deere, but my big orange power tool has been unbelievably reliable and a workhorse, even with it's small size. Especially once I learned not to "baby" it. ;)

[Tom M King]

I started with a 6' bushog, and a finish mower. After I got the stronger tractor, I wanted a wider cutter than the width of the back tires. I ended up with a 7' rotary cutter (Bushog type-actually Hardee brand), and decided to get the two tail wheel version. The two tail wheels keep it from scalping the ground, when you go over a hump, much much better than the single tailwheel.

With sharp blades, it cuts as cleanly and closely as the finish mower did, so I sold the finish mower. I fabricated a door on the back that allows me to sharpen the blades with a 9" sidegrinder. It gets the call when there is more than a fraction of an acre to mow, and will cut, with sharp blades as good as a lawnmower.

It does a good job of cutting close to a fenceline, and keeping our riding trails in good shape thanks to being barely wider than the tractor wheels. It's still heavy enough to cut whatever you can push over with it.

I also welded an ATV sprayer boom on the back that can spray a 30' wide swath, and there is a 40 gallon tank welded on the deck of the cutter. The "ATV" boom is only about 5' wide, so it doesn't hang over the sides. A hand wand stays up by the seat, so it I want to spot spray something, like a Poke weed, from the seat with a flip of a switch and the hand wand. I use the boom by opening and closing valves near the pump on the tank.

It stays on the tractor all of the grass growing season unless we need to use something else hanging on the back.

[Ethan Melad]

We've got an older 35hp White 4wd with pto, 3pt hitch, and bucket. Its great. I think White went out of business in the late 90's, but I see them used and parts are available pretty easily.

[Rich Riddle]

I never guessed so many woodworkers had tractors.

[Jesse Busenitz]

I never guessed so many woodworkers had tractors.

Well I grew up on a farm so..... Just the other day I had to work on the motor on my 20" Grizz jointer so instead of working in the sawdust, I go the forks on the 4020 and lifted it up in the air and worked standing up.... very handy.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Steve I don't know all the differences between a M and Super M but we have a Spr M trike and that thing does at least 20 MPH.... Yeah kinda stupid. I was just using that thing the other day to drill some post holes. Trike comes in handy to position your auger in the back, as you almost have zero turning, using the brakes:-) We also have two 4020s and I think they are the best all around farm chore tractor, maybe a bit bit for a hobby user. Also to who ever said 4-wheel drive is better..... Yeah you can get out of more, but you also can get stuck worse....DAMHIKT

Wow, 20 MPH on an M ? I bet that is a scary thing! We were moving hay equipment one time in the sandhills, some of them pretty steep. I was pulling a rake with an H, and was the last in a line. As we pulled up to a gate at a pretty slow clip, my tractors brakes failed. I think I was 12 maybe, but made the decision that my moms tractor in front of me looked safer to hit than the 1/8 mile of increasing slope and rough terrain. It was an interesting day.

I agree that the 40 series deere is pretty darn good. 4wd is used to save some kind of crazy tractor use I think too, like carrying too much load with a loader.

[Art Mann]

Mahindra is made in India.

A few tractors are partially "assembled" in the US from 100% foreign parts, partially to facilitate easy shipping. The advertisements mislead people into thinking they are buying US made. I believe Mahindra may be one such company.

On the other hand, I don't believe there are any real US made compact tractors any more. Even if you buy green painted ones, you are buying a piece of equipment that was manufactured somewhere in the orient. If I am buying a foreign made tractor anyway, it doesn't matter to me whether it is sold by a domestic company or not. I will go strictly by reputation and value. Mahindra is fairly new but they are developing a pretty good reputation around here and there are several dealers within 50 miles. Not sure whether I would buy one.

[Larry Edgerton]

I had a string of old tractors. Fix them up and sell them, had some fun. Then I bought a modern compact 45hp New Holland with a quick change loader/forks. Bought it new and it will probably be here till I am gone. It is so much handier for misc. type work than old iron. No chains in the winter is a huge plus. I use it in the woods and on the off-camber stuff the 4wheel drive really helps, and I would not want another loader tractor without it either.

Yea, you will never get me on an old tractor again.......

[Tom M King]

I've gotten by just fine with 2wd on this 70 hp tractor, but would want 4wd on anything much smaller. It's heavy enough that I can still pick up a ton, and the power steering works just fine even with a loaded bucket. If the ground is too soft for me to work without miring up, I leave it in the shed anyway. If it does get stuck, I can push it back out with the bucket. It clears the road of snow just fine with no tire slipping. It has wheel weights and 55 gallons of fluid in each rear tire. I would have had to pay several times what I paid for it to get one less than half this size new, but I can pick up some of those tractors with this one. It's been one of the best tools I've ever bought, and it still finds new uses every week.

One reason I went with a bigger tractor was pulling a box blade. The little 35hp would often get to the place that it couldn't pull the box, and you had to raise the blade leaving a hump to have to deal with, which could take many times longer to get things leveled out. With the 70 hp, it's "come on let's go" with not only a full 7' box, but even if stone is boiling over the top. I also have an 8' grading blade with a tailwheel that I can control with the remotes from the seat for swing, tilt, and offset. It's not quite a motor grader, but comes pretty daggone close for cutting ditches and grading a crown on a road.

I've built our farm with this tractor, and it's still ready to go and do it again. It's great for lifting plywood and roofing materials up to a roof.

[Don Corbeil]

Excellent point. Without that support and ability to get parts quickly, it can make maintaining/repairing a tractor a real hassle.
Fortunately here in southwest colorado we have a good supply of dealers - and used tractors.



Picking a new or used compact tractor relative to brand really needs to revolve around the local dealer environment. Being able to access service and parts is important.

[Izzy Camire]

Don't discount consideration of a newer compact tractor from Kubota, Deere, etc. You can often get a good buy on a trade-in (or zero percent financing on a new one with a full warranty) and they are just as easy to work on than the older machines. I use a Kubota subcompact to maintain our 4 acre property and it's a real workhorse...and even "non-mechanic" me can handle most maintenance and repairs. The diesel engines run "forever", too...

Oh, and don't buy anything with just 2WD. You WILL get stuck at some point and 4WD increases the versatility. IMHO.


Jim, is giving you good advice. I bought a Yanmar a few years ago and it is a great tractor. It will last the rest of my life.

The other thing is buy a bigger tractor than you think you need. Once you have one and start using it you don't want to bump into the limitations of too small of a machine. You do not know today what you will want to use it for until you have it.

[Don Buck]

A few tractors are partially "assembled" in the US from 100% foreign parts, partially to facilitate easy shipping. The advertisements mislead people into thinking they are buying US made. I believe Mahindra may be one such company.

On the other hand, I don't believe there are any real US made compact tractors any more. Even if you buy green painted ones, you are buying a piece of equipment that was manufactured somewhere in the orient. If I am buying a foreign made tractor anyway, it doesn't matter to me whether it is sold by a domestic company or not. I will go strictly by reputation and value. Mahindra is fairly new but they are developing a pretty good reputation around here and there are several dealers within 50 miles. Not sure whether I would buy one.

I purchased a 12 ac property last year which came with a 35 hp Mahindra with 200 hours on the meter. So far I've only used it to bush hog. Initial impression is that it is a well made tractor. I wish it had external hydraulics as I had to pass on a well priced 3 point/PTO wood splitter as I had no external hook ups.
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[Mike Lassiter]

Jim, is giving you good advice. I bought a Yanmar a few years ago and it is a great tractor. It will last the rest of my life.

The other thing is buy a bigger tractor than you think you need. Once you have one and start using it you don't want to bump into the limitations of too small of a machine. You do not know today what you will want to use it for until you have it.

YES! I started out wanting an 855 JD when I moved here. Trees to cut and stumps to get up, 7.5 acres of land and mowing about 5. Unable to get a tractor I started out with a BCS 12 hp tiller and bush hog attachment and mowed everything by walking behind it. Later I was able to order a NEW JD 4610 tractor with R4 tires, loader and backhoe attachment, and a new MX 6 bush hog. I was vey pleased to be able to dig the stumps up with the backhoe as opposed to pulling them up with a 3000 lb pull come-a-long and chopping the roots with a ax. Front end loader able to lift and move most everything I tried to move. Tractor pto hp was 37.5 with the hydrostatic drive transmission. That was 2002 and the first year JD offered the ehydrostatic drive. I ordered mine as the pedals were so much easier to push than the mechanical pedals the current model had in the hydrostatic drive.

For loader work, the hydrostatic is the ONLY way I would go. I do a lot of loader work, and mow several acres at my house and family farm with the bush hog. It looks like it was mowed by a lawn mower. I can back up to either side of trees and no weed eating ever needed. Engine at pto speed and the pedals just make repeatedly changing directions so easy and fast. Never have to move hands off steering wheel or lift controls as being used.

After having this tractor for 5 years I traded it and my beloved backhoe attachment for a 2006 model 4520 cab tractor with self leveling frontend loader. I was getting covered by poison ivy bush hogging and the pollen and dust began to get to me when it was hot and dry. I love the cab, with the a/c and heat and radio. I have bush hogged where it was so dry and dusty that I could hit the glass from inside the cab and watch the dirt drop off the outside of the glass. You just will love getting out of the cab clean and dry when you would otherwise be covered in dust that had turned to mud because it was hot and you were sweating and chocking to get the needed mowing done.

In 2011 I traded the 4520 for the biggest one of this series from JD - 4720 ehydrostatic drive, same MFWD as all have had, another self leveling loader, with a HD 72" bucket, a debris bucket, a root grapple bucket (weights 800+ lbs by itself), and we got a free Frontier 4 in 1 bucket for buying the tractor at the time. I had the 4520 about 5 years and we gave $32,500 for it used with a little over 100 hours on it and one year old. After 5 years I had around 300 hours on it, and was offered $29,000 trading on it for the new tractor and buckets. The 4720 as with the 4610 had to be ordered and waited a good while for it to arrive.

The 4720 has a 540e pto that allows me to shift it either into 540e or regular 540 pto. The difference is mowing most everything I use with it with the engine running about 1700 rpm versus 2500 rpm for regular pto operation. Fuel last over twice as long for me running it tractor in 540e pto. Mainly cutting grass in fields and some fairly heavy bush hogging. Killed the engine once in 540e trying to cut down so small trees. Bush hog is very heavy double layered top. I think it weighs over 1000 lbs. I can back over many things and cut them, but small trees I have raised the bush hog up and backed into the trees and lowered it down on them slowly and then cut them. MX6 claims to be good for up to 2" diameter, but mine has cut probably double that on occasion. Using the same one bought new in 2002 and zero trouble form it. Changed the blades once so far. I have cut down untold small trees clearing on the farm because it was neglected and let grow. That was primarily the reason for me wanting the 4720 - more horse power. I was amazed going from the 4610 @ 37.5 pto hp to the 4520 @ 40 pto hp. The 4720 has 66 engine hp and I believe 58 pto hp. Same size and weight tractor other than I added double rear wheel weights and fluid in both rear tires. Still can raise back tires up enough to loose traction at times. I built a rack for 3 pt hitch to hold 2 55 gal barrels filled with water for ballast. I had to remove a 8' x 15' covered porch from a mobile home we bought and had to move and the front end loader was all I had to do it with. Wife and I (mostly me) moved it with our tractor and also put it back on the mobile home after getting it moved to it's new home. That was an ordeal! The bottom was treated wood, with a shingled covered roof above. It was almost too much for the 4720 to lift. I couldn't tilt the porch back, but could hold it due to being at the limits of loader. Front tires slightly over inflated, and mashed 1/2 flat. We ordered the R1 (ag tread) tires instead of the R4 (industrial tread) and I have regretted that many times using the loader. The R4 tires are rated to carry over double what the R1 tires are. I NEVER mashed the R4 tires with the other 2 tractors and I have had the rear end lifted off the ground a time or two. Another really nice thing is called a automotive throttle that when turned on, allows the throttle lever to remain at idle, and when you press the forward or reverse pedal the engine rpm increases just like your car when pressing the accelerator pedal. I use that all the time, unless bush hogging. Something else I ordered is telescopic lift arms. It's a PITA to climb up and down , in and out trying to hook up a 1000 lb. bush hog that you cannot move 1/2" to get the lift arms on the pins. Money well spent! MX6 is suppose to be quick hitch ready, but not for a cat 1 lift. My lift arms hit the square tubing the pins are mounted in.


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[Matt Marsh]

In the mid 1990s I made about a 10 acre food plot for the wildlife on my property. I wanted something with a 3-point hitch, and I also wanted some good hydraulics to operate implements like disks and plows. I couldn't justify the cost of a later model compact tractor, so I began doing my homework like you are. After talking to many different tractor people, I decided that the model 65 Massey Ferguson would fit the bill nicely. They were somewhat ahead of their time in that they have a 3-point hitch, hydraulics, and a three position clutch, which in my opinion launched it way ahead of the Ford N series tractors. It is also a bit larger HP-wise. It was also made with the Perkins diesel, the Continental gasoline, and continental propane models. Because I didn't plan on using mine all that much, and because I live in Northern MN, I decided on a gasoline model. I found one at one of the area dealers. It is a 1964 model, which was the last year for the 65. It also has every available option. Little did I know that old tractors would become a new interest of mine. Here is a pic!

http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/contents/atp247.htm


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[Rich Riddle]

What do you folks mean by external hydraulics? I know what a 3 point hitch is but not sure of external hydraulics.

[Mike Lassiter]

remote couplings for implements. I have 3 pair on my tractor. Like you have a hay baler and need a remote hydraulic circuit to raise the back to roll the round bale out, or hay rake that has a hydraulic cylinder to raise it and lower it. Some bush hogs use remote hydraulics for raising and lowering them (pull type) and bigger ones have sections that fold up that need a circuit for that.

[Tom M King]

Each hydraulic remote is controlled by a lever next to the driver. Each pushs and pulls with hydraulic pressure. Remotes are separate from the 3 point hitch. Each one has a couple of ports to connect hydraulic lines to, and a lever handle to operate it. Any tractor with the capability can have from 1 to several. Mine has three. I use one for swing on the grading blade, another for tilt, and the third for offset from side to side. That's the only implement I have that uses all three.

[Brad Schafer]

I have quite a bit of mechanical ability and am looking for a small farm of about 20 acres. More like a "truck farm" use type of tractor. It will be used to keep weeds in check, perform a bit of tillage work, and a post hole digger would prove nice. I have no preference for gas or diesel. It seems like most folks recommend a 3 point hitch, so that's a yes. No wood splitter is needed at this time. Thanks.

rich - am late to the dance here, but have some relevant experience. i used a Ferguson 35 (gas) and Massey 30 (3 cyl Perkins diesel) in just such a capacity ... also a Super M, Super H, Deere B double-lunger, and 4020. i bought a Kubota L3010 with FL 15 yrs ago. here are a couple thoughts:

1) power steering is worth its weight in gold - don't get a FL without it
2) 4WD is as well - if you have a big sloppy load going downhill and no weight on the back, you'd better have it
3) for 20 acres you really don't need more than 30-35hp ... we farmed 50 with the 30 & 35 for years - no issues
4) IMO (and experience) single stage PTOs are dangerous. buddy had his kid get wrapped up in one; was almost tragic.

also important depending on what you want to do ... some newer tractors do NOT have an Ag 3 pt hitch (read: down pressure and float). my L3010 is one, as i didn't buy that hydraulic option. if you intend to use a post hole digger, you'll want a down-force capability. the float is almost a requirement for a plow, and is nice to have for brush-hogging depending on the mower you get, or for a drag blade (e.g., for driveway dressing).

i'd throw in with others who suggested looking for something used with low hrs. older utilities will lack power steering, and 50-60hp Ag units (which certainly are nice) will probably be too much machine for what you need.

good luck, -b

[Matt Marsh]

One of the main things I use my tractor for is running a brush hog to clear the many trails I maintain on my 40 acres. One thing if you are considering a tractor like the old N series Fords is that you cannot run the 3-point up without having the clutch disengaged and the PTO engaged. In other words if you get hung up on a stump with your brush hog and kill the engine, you can't lift the 3-point without also engaging the blade. You will need to get off the tractor, and disconnect the PTO shaft before you can lift the brush hog off the stump. A 3 position clutch enables you to disengage the clutch half way, allowing you to lift the 3-point without engaging the blade.

[Jason Roehl]

For the record, I don't own a tractor of any sort (1/4-acre neighborhood lot), but I have driven quite a few (church, in-laws' farm), and have driven various pieces of other machinery (Skid-steers, payloaders and the like).

If you're going to have a bucket on front, one that's set up with a Bob-tach would be nice. This means quick-connect hydraulics, and the bucket can be quickly swapped out with forks or other implements that may or may not have hydraulic controls, such as a skid-steer uses--universal and plentiful.

[Jim Andrew]

I have a small farm in Kansas, have 5 tractors, the oldest is a super H International, the rest are all John Deere, found parts for the old H are super expensive through case IH, and only keep the H around because it was my Dad's. Find my skidsteer the handiest machine I have for loader work, fence building, cleaning up manure, anything you can get an attachment for. Attachments are getting much less expensive, and I have several. Found I can use my grapple to pick hedge posts up by the end and put them in a hole. Use it to dig fence post holes, much straighter than with the 3 point, and I can get them clean enough that I don't have to clean them out by hand. The late model JD's are much more refined than anything older, my newest is an '08 7130 I use with a loader, to feed in winter, and bale hay in summer. It has a quiet enough cab to listen to the radio, and the heater and AC are excellent. I keep a CD of my son's band in the radio to play when the radio is barren of anything good. Also have a '69 JD 4020 diesel. If one of my sons keeps the place after I die, either will keep the 4020. Bought it used in 75, very few repairs, and it is still in running condition. They both learned to drive on it.